View Full Version : Restoring a Marantz cabinet.


Njord Noatun
02-26-2007, 09:14 AM
Does anyone have any experiences with a total restore (stripping and refinish) of the WC-22 cabinet? I am assuming from looking at mine that the cab was surface treated (shellac?) from factory. If so, I am thinking that this finish needs to be stripped before I can reapply a new finish.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

merrylander
02-26-2007, 09:57 AM
Yep, you need to strip whatever was on it. BTW do you know that those cases were $29.95 when new?

Rob

Njord Noatun
02-26-2007, 10:21 AM
Yep, you need to strip whatever was on it. And would you use varnish remover for that, Rob? Thank you.

Rgds,

onepixel
02-26-2007, 10:37 AM
Hey Njord,

I've refinished a number of Marantz woodcases with great results. Here is my latest.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41112&d=1172462899

Since I don't like using harsh chemicals I used an orbital sander on the flat sides. I did the finer areas around the front with a sanding block. It takes some time cutting through the varnsih/shellac but I like working with the wood. I was going to stain it but it wasn't neccessary. I just used some Howard's Restor a Finish. I usually use some finishing wax and buff it to a low sheen. I haven't done that yet with the example shown. I don't revarnish the case. The natural beauty of the wood just shines.

Good luck!

spartanmanor
02-26-2007, 10:41 AM
I have a case in original mint condition and it is a dull finish very much like you would find in the New England speaker cabinet tradition.

Njord Noatun
02-26-2007, 11:09 AM
I did the finer areas around the front with a sanding block. That cabinet looks great, Onepixel: I would be concerned about accidentally rounding edges and corners, however, especially the front leading edges, when removing the shellac with abrasives. But I guess that is a risk when using chemicals, as well: Either way, one just have to be very careful with all the edges, I suppose. No easy answer now that the Marantz factory decided to shellac (as opposed to oil and wax, akin to a speaker cabinet) their receiver cases.

onepixel
02-26-2007, 11:20 AM
Rounding the edges is always a big concern so I took it real slow and easy. You could use a combintation of chemical stripper and sanding.

I did use a chemical varnish stripper when I redid my beveled window frames. Sanding was not an option. The stuff actually worked pretty good. Don't remember the name right off but it was a gell. Brush it on wait a couple of minutes and wipe it right off. Make sure you use gloves and good ventilation. The stuff is potent.

LBPete
02-26-2007, 11:36 AM
Yep, you need to strip whatever was on it. BTW do you know that those cases were $29.95 when new?

RobI don't know what year these cases were offered but $29.95 in 1972, for example, would have an equivalent value of $145.03 2007 dollars. If it were 1976 it would be $106.54 2007 dollars.

- Pete

hellhound94
02-26-2007, 11:45 AM
Hey Njord,

I've refinished a number of Marantz woodcases with great results. Here is my latest.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41112&d=1172462899

Since I don't like using harsh chemicals I used an orbital sander on the flat sides. I did the finer areas around the front with a sanding block. It takes some time cutting through the varnsih/shellac but I like working with the wood. I was going to stain it but it wasn't neccessary. I just used some Howard's Restor a Finish. I usually use some finishing wax and buff it to a low sheen. I haven't done that yet with the example shown. I don't revarnish the case. The natural beauty of the wood just shines.

Good luck!

Onepixel:

Your work is excellent...the case is beautiful. I have nine WC-22 cases, most of which I've purchased on eBay. Several of them have come in with a shiny surface and the rest look like yours. The ones that look like yours are the ones I prefer. Also, that is the way I remember them when they were new as I had a couple back in the '70s.

Nice job!

Tucker99
02-26-2007, 02:09 PM
I agree about avioding the harsh chemicals where possible and I really dislike the toxic smell of some of them.
I have just fisihed stripping the cases fro Marantz Imperial 8 speakers...thick, dark varnish...down to clean bare oak. I used Circa 1850 brand 'Soft Strip', a biodegradable and non-harsh smell (they say 'pleasant' ...I wouldn't go that far) stripper and two coats cleaned it right off. Then I just rubbed down with 220 grit followed by 400 grit.
Then it is whatever final application you decide.
Unless you are skilled with the power sander, I would err on the side of caution.
I think in the DIY section there are some more good threads on stripping and finishing. Have a look there.
John

Zinker
02-27-2007, 12:22 AM
Hey this thread is RIGHT on time...How thin is the Marantz veneer ???? And what do you do if you go to far on the sanding.??? I have a very small spot on a cabinet that just does not want to accept stain.....Can you actually remove the veneer????


Thanks, :banana: :banana: :banana:


Love to all....

schwarcw
02-27-2007, 12:29 AM
Nice job onepixel! Great finish!

Yes Zinker the vaneer is very thin. You have to take a lot of care in sanding not to go through the vaneer. On some of these cabinents the vaneer is chipped. This makes the refinish very tricky to match!

Carl

onepixel
02-27-2007, 12:37 AM
Hey this thread is RIGHT on time...How thin is the Marantz veneer ???? And what do you do if you go to far on the sanding.??? I have a very small spot on a cabinet that just does not want to accept stain.....Can you actually remove the veneer????


Thanks, :banana: :banana: :banana:


Love to all....

oh yeah...DON"T OVER SAND!!!

Look on the back or along the edges of the case. Veneer is really thin and you can remove it. Then you're screwed. The hard to stain spot on your cabinet might have some kinda of wax or chemical that is repelling the stain. A wood cleaner or a pre-stain might help. But it's hard guessing as to exactly why.

spartanmanor
02-27-2007, 08:20 AM
Any consensus on what the final finish should be to get the satin look?

Tmac83
02-27-2007, 10:40 AM
is there any place to look for cabs besides ebay - I am looking for one for my 2238B? Onepixel - that cab looks beautiful - nice work

onepixel
02-27-2007, 12:10 PM
Any consensus on what the final finish should be to get the satin look?

I love the natural beauty of wood. I remove the varnish/shellac which seems to get kinda funky with age on some cases. I just lightly sand, use several coats of Howard's Restor a Finish and use a finishing wax and buff it out. It will give it a nice warm mellow glow.

is there any place to look for cabs besides ebay - I am looking for one for my 2238B? Onepixel - that cab looks beautiful - nice work

Thanks Tmac83.

That woodcase on the 2275 (WC-22) actually came from a 2238B (WC-122) that I bought. Even though it fit the screw holes for the feet doesn't align properly.

The best bet is to find them locally or buy a parts unit with a case. But because of the high demand for the cases sellers have caught on that they can sell them sometimes for a lot more than what goes in them.

Good luck.

soundweasel
02-27-2007, 12:17 PM
The old finish should be so weak you can remove it with 000 or 0000 steel wool without any chemicals. If you use a stripper you run the risk of loosening the adhesive that is holding down the veneer. Using sandpaper or an electric sander and you run the risk of sanding through the veneer.

Be patient. The WC-22 is a small project so the additional "elbow grease" required to remove the finish without stripper should be minimal, and the final results well worth the effort.

BTW -- I tried Howard's Restor a Finish for the first time on a pair of Allison Acoustics CD6's this past weekend and I must admit I am VERY impressed with the results. Still, for future projects I'm going to remove the old finish and use tung oil to refinish. I admit that I'm obsessive, and that anything other than a complete strip and refinish seems like a shortcut to me. :nono:

Good luck and PM me if you'd like to discuss further. I'll call you.

Zinker
02-27-2007, 11:30 PM
Hey guys thanks for the help, I've got a chip in a cabinet that I want to fill then stain. I've tried almost everything, but can't seem to find a good filler that will take stain(in this case cherry) any suggestions.

And I don't know if it's just me but somehow a Marantz just sounds a little "warmer" wrapped in wood......


Thanks guys....:banana: :banana:

onepixel
02-28-2007, 01:38 AM
Hey guys thanks for the help, I've got a chip in a cabinet that I want to fill then stain. I've tried almost everything, but can't seem to find a good filler that will take stain(in this case cherry) any suggestions.

And I don't know if it's just me but somehow a Marantz just sounds a little "warmer" wrapped in wood......


Thanks guys....:banana: :banana:

It does sound warmer...ah huh!

To get that chip repair real purrty forget the filler/stain combo. What will make that fix disappear is splicing in a piece of veneer with similiar grain. I've actually used veneer off beat up speakers.

If it's deep I'll use wood filler to raise the level. I use a very sharp exacto knife and cut out a clean sharp section. Cut a similar piece of veneer and puzzle in. Use wood glue and be sure not to have any over spill because it will close the pores and the stain won't take. Weight it and let dry overnight. It's all right if it is slightly high. Trim and sand down flush. You might not even have to stain it.

Use "surgical" precision and you will not be able to tell there ever was a chip.

merrylander
02-28-2007, 06:43 AM
As has been noted there are varnish strippers that do not stink up the place and I have yet to see one loosen the veneer. Most veneers here are 1/42" or thereabouts except for Japanes cases, they seem to be able to slice it thinner. Since all WC-22 cases I have seen were walnut, the idea of cutting out where it is chipped and glueing in a new piece is usually what I do. Anyone needing a small piece of walnut veneer PM me with dimensions and direction of the grain.

Rob

jim w.
03-05-2007, 01:05 PM
heres a pic of my cat u can have :yes:

spartanmanor
03-05-2007, 01:40 PM
Ok, I just did one. I used 120 grit carbide paper to take the old finish down then used Minwax wipe on poly in a clear satin finish 3 coats.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41885&d=1173123633

tboat4
03-05-2007, 04:32 PM
Spartanmanor:

Looks very good! Congratulations.

Tim

Njord Noatun
03-05-2007, 05:46 PM
I used 120 grit carbide paper to take the old finish down then used Minwax wipe on poly in a clear satin finish 3 coats. Looks very nice, Spartanmanor.:thmbsp: I have some supplemental questions:


Was the old finish a varnish or similar surface finish?
Did you only use abrasives, and no chemicals, to remove the old finish?
Did you use a palm sander for the large surfaces, and then hand sanded the rest?


Thanks.

Best regards,

spartanmanor
03-05-2007, 07:59 PM
Looks very nice, Spartanmanor.:thmbsp: I have some supplemental questions:


Was the old finish a varnish or similar surface finish?
Did you only use abrasives, and no chemicals, to remove the old finish?
Did you use a palm sander for the large surfaces, and then hand sanded the rest?


Thanks.

Best regards,

By the way the old finsh looked I would say it was varnish or poly.

All I used was the sandpaper. The finish came off pretty easily.

I used a sanding block working in the direction of the wood grain for the majority of it then some hand rubbing in some of the more stubburn spots. I do not like palm sanders as they leave a swirl finish.

dadoffive
03-05-2007, 09:07 PM
Hello AK, This is my first entry on this web site. Glad to be here.. Thanks ..I am known on ebay as waroquier2006.. I have a few units on ebay right now that I refinished and installed new veneer, in fact I veneered a 22xx and a Sansui 9090 cabinet today.. its alot easier then it seems. the hardest part is just gathering all the tools and veneer to do it. and once you do one your off to the races. I live in Michigan and can do a cabinet in about a day and a half. this is more just drying time then labor. I will be happy to help anyone that needs it. it seems like alot of you guys have it all figured out. because your cabinets look great. Thanks and yes I have 5 kids (dadoffive) I would love to show pics but I havn't figured it out yet.

spartanmanor
03-06-2007, 07:59 AM
Hello AK, This is my first entry on this web site. Glad to be here.. Thanks ..I am known on ebay as waroquier2006.. I have a few units on ebay right now that I refinished and installed new veneer, in fact I veneered a 22xx and a Sansui 9090 cabinet today.. its alot easier then it seems. the hardest part is just gathering all the tools and veneer to do it. and once you do one your off to the races. I live in Michigan and can do a cabinet in about a day and a half. this is more just drying time then labor. I will be happy to help anyone that needs it. it seems like alot of you guys have it all figured out. because your cabinets look great. Thanks and yes I have 5 kids (dadoffive) I would love to show pics but I havn't figured it out yet.

Welcome to AK. Glad to have you here. :thmbsp:

Yes veneering can be a blast. I have done a couple of pieces myself. There are some really beautiful species of wood out there that can make an old plane Jane piece of equipment look amazing.

tomefs
03-08-2007, 08:19 PM
I am making five Marantz wc-22 stlye cases right now from scratch.I can post photos if anybody wants to see one.They are an exact match from a dementional point of view but they look and are far higher quality than an old 30 year old partical board case. I have sold many over the years . This new case will have a solid walnut front edge and a stronger 16 ga.vs 18 ga. vent grill hand made. I also refinish old beatup ones too reveneering or refinishing.The cases are not easy to make but after a few runs you find better ways to make them, I am also a cabinet maker.tomefs

onepixel
03-08-2007, 08:29 PM
I am making five Marantz wc-22 stlye cases right now from scratch.I can post photos if anybody wants to see one.They are an exact match from a dementional point of view but they look and are far higher quality than an old 30 year old partical board case. I have sold many over the years . This new case will have a solid walnut front edge and a stronger 16 ga.vs 18 ga. vent grill hand made. I also refinish old beatup ones too reveneering or refinishing.The cases are not easy to make but after a few runs you find better ways to make them, I am also a cabinet maker.tomefs


tomefs...I'd love to see your work!

Thanks!