Picked up a Sansui 350A on ebay here in the Uk - needs some work - had broken speaker switch which I have repaired. Also needs 'Stereo' bulb and 3 lamps for the tuning dial - are these a major headache to source?? Anyone have info on this model - had a look around AK and there doesnt appear to be much about it.
and finally the serial number for the data base : 820100944
Cheers for now!
J

theres some info here lungin, in Morden2004's Sansui database. http://www.clarkeworks.com/sansui/General%20Report%20by%20Model%20No.pdf

thanks for the info Bolly - I will continue working on it and will post photos of innards if anyone is interested. Also, has anyone any idea how to breath life back into the tuning needle/pointer - it should be lit up but at present it is deader than your average Dodo...

Picked up a Sansui 350A on ebay here in the Uk - needs some work - had broken speaker switch which I have repaired. Also needs 'Stereo' bulb and 3 lamps for the tuning dial - are these a major headache to source?? Anyone have info on this model - had a look around AK and there doesnt appear to be much about it.
and finally the serial number for the data base : 820100944
Cheers for now!
JIf you eventually need service manual and technical bulletins LINK (http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4884061-Shop.aspx?SearchString=350A&SearchButton=%26nbsp%3Bsearch)

I just bought one at a charity store for 40$ with a pair of
Acoustic Research TSW 110 speakers and the owners and
service manuals. Witnesses said my eyes popped out
and jaw hit the ground. What would you like to know about
it? I could scan some pages and email them to you.
b.r.,
Scanguy77 nikonf2@verizon.net

I just bought one at a charity store for 40$ with a pair of
Acoustic Research TSW 110 speakers and the owners and
service manuals. Witnesses said my eyes popped out
and jaw hit the ground. What would you like to know about
it? I could scan some pages and email them to you.
b.r.,
Scanguy77 nikonf2@verizon.net
Hey that's a good haul!
What I am after is the schematics for the the 350A - want to try and give it the once over plus find a replacement for the 'needle ' bulb on the tuning display.
Any info you have would be cool
Cheers
J

I answered a listing on CL last night, was first in line, and went out and picked up a Sansui 350a on the eastside this afternoon for $20. I had a nice chat with the seller and his son who are both gearheads. He had a nice pair of Vandersteens and a very old pair of Thiels too. I've never seen one of these 350a units - 47 WPC from what I can find researching this unit, this one is in good shape and the controls were clean, just need to replace the tuning display bulbs. It's always a good day when you can bring home another nice Sansui :thmbsp::music:

Here's a few pictures:

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o240/speakerlabfan/IMAGE_00954.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o240/speakerlabfan/IMAGE_00953.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o240/speakerlabfan/IMAGE_00955.jpg

The 350 A was the heart of my first component system and If I recall, I purchased it used from an older guy in the ‘hood for $100. More like 20 wpc I think. Fond memories of that one and have considered picking up another simply for the nostalgia. Wonderful little unit. I gave it to my Dad and it started acting up, which was probably just dirty contacts or pots, but it did not have a happy ending...long before I got back into this stuff.

Ah, thanks for that info. I found the spec sheet and you're right, 20 WPC into 8 ohms: http://www.classicsansui.net/images/Literature/Receivers/350A/350Ab.jpg

That was a big 20 wpc as I recall. My 6X9" Ampex speakers (yes from a tape deck) rocked pretty good with that unit!

I have an Orion book and it shows the 350 and the 350A, and both should be 30 watts X2 RMS. I just put one on ebay, and it is pretty and works fine. The controls do get corroded and need a good cleaning. At first, I thought the left channel was out. Nope, just dirty contacts.

Well, I've just picked one up yesterday for very cheap. I'm really happy about the tuner quality. It is FET driven and has 4 gang and 3 filters; very very good sound. It will get the 1rst home place as soon as I will have replaced the capacitors. It seems to miss some punch in the bass according to me. I will increase some values, specially the caps on the o/p . By the way, a 2200 on the A/C filtering is the smallest I've ever seen... Were they missing money from the FET on the tuner side ?

Anybody know where to find the schamatics ?

Well, I've just picked one up yesterday for very cheap. I'm really happy about the tuner quality. It is FET driven and has 4 gang and 3 filters; very very good sound. It will get the 1rst home place as soon as I will have replaced the capacitors. It seems to miss some punch in the bass according to me. I will increase some values, specially the caps on the o/p . By the way, a 2200 on the A/C filtering is the smallest I've ever seen... Were they missing money from the FET on the tuner side ?

Anybody know where to find the schamatics ?

Thought I would bump this one more time and see if I can get moving on this baby. I've had it awhile now and finally have a clear space to work on its assorted problems. These amount to a permanent background hiss on the right channel - even with volume down to '0' or balance set fully to left channel; pops and cracks come on within 5-10 seconds when she is switched to AM setting; Blown needle bulb on the tuning dial ( can these be replaced with a suitable LED?)
Of course there is the usual need of a schematic /manual - there isn't a whole lot of info on this model - maybe as it is marked on the back as European - any of you guys have experience off working on one?
She is nice receiver with a proper wooden case and I just want to breath a bit of life back into her, make her sing again!
Anyway, over to you and cheers for now...
J

wow that thing looks very close to a 1000x, but appears to have fewer inputs/oututs on the rear. Have you tried deoxit on all your controlls yet? I have a 1000x, and those stilly lever style switches can be a pain. You have to take off the face of the amp to get to them to spray deoxit in them, and the tape monitor switches seem to cause a lot of trouble when they are dirty. Mine didn't pass audio untill I did that, which is probably the reason it got donated in the first place.
The needle "LED" I think is really a minature peanut bulb isn't it? I think theres a source on evilpay for those, also some for the fuse lights too.

wow that thing looks very close to a 1000x, but appears to have fewer inputs/oututs on the rear. Have you tried deoxit on all your controlls yet? I have a 1000x, and those stilly lever style switches can be a pain. You have to take off the face of the amp to get to them to spray deoxit in them, and the tape monitor switches seem to cause a lot of trouble when they are dirty. Mine didn't pass audio untill I did that, which is probably the reason it got donated in the first place.
The needle "LED" I think is really a minature peanut bulb isn't it? I think theres a source on evilpay for those, also some for the fuse lights too.

Speakerdude8
:thmbsp:Thanks for the reply - I've cleaned all controls and switches with deoxit awhile back but the problems are still there - when you say peanut bulb are these available still - Radioshack? or the UK equivilant -Maplins. Will have to check that out. I shall also check out the 1000x and see if its a similar model
cheers man
J

I had a 350A and am now running an AU555A which is the integrated amp version of the same amp scheme ( I think ) . So Lungin, just PM me and I will give you the osm ( operation and service manual ) of the 555. Hope this help.

From my experience, pops and cracks comes from a bad transistor in the cct. I had one sometime ago just straightening the legs got it back on track.. I didn't believe it !

Little bulbs are available at the "surplus" electronic parts here. Usualy an 8 volts bulb. You can also fit a led ther if you want ( just don't forget the resistor ).

I had a 350A and am now running an AU555A which is the integrated amp version of the same amp scheme ( I think ) ..
No it's not :no:

I've cleaned all controls and switches with deoxit awhile back but the problems are still there -
JReplace 2SC458 in Tone Control with 2SC2240 and your problem is solved

Isn't it using the same power supply configuration ( 2200uf ) with the same O/P caps ( 1500 uf ) with the same drivers ( 2Sc1030 )?

What is the difference ?

I know the exact int. amp. version of the 350 is the AU-505 ( which I also have ) but the scheme of the amp side is quite the same...

Replace 2SC458 in Tone Control with 2SC2240 and your problem is solved

Many thanks Stene - I have looked at board F1248 and there is a transistor - TR704 - thank reacts to freeze spray and the background noise drops of dramatically. I am presuming this is the board associated with the tone control - its attached to the volume/ balance/bass/treble controls. The transistor is marked C458 4H. Also, what polarity should I be looking for - NPN or PNP?
cheers once again Stene - finally feel as if its possible to raise this phoenix from the ashes!:thmbsp:

WOW that's troubleshooting !

:thmbsp:Stene !

How did you find problem was this precise transistor ?

Isn't it using the same power supply configuration ( 2200uf ) with the same O/P caps ( 1500 uf ) with the same drivers ( 2Sc1030 )?

What is the difference ?
To me there are differencies. See pics

Many thanks Stene - I have looked at board F1248 and there is a transistor - TR704 - thank reacts to freeze spray and the background noise drops of dramatically. I am presuming this is the board associated with the tone control - its attached to the volume/ balance/bass/treble controls. The transistor is marked C458 4H. Also, what polarity should I be looking for - NPN or PNP?
cheers once again Stene - finally feel as if its possible to raise this phoenix from the ashes!:thmbsp:There are two transistors
on the board. C458 = 2SC458 it's a NPN. Replace both. A transistor like 2SAxxx = PNP

WOW that's troubleshooting !

:thmbsp:Stene !

How did you find problem was this precise transistor ?Experience :D

2SC458 is a noise generator, especially the orange type. The black colored version is a little bit better but still noisy. 2SC2240 is quiet.

You have everything ?

All Sansui schematics ?

Others ? Like Kenwood KA 4006 ?

You have everything ?

All Sansui schematics ?

Others ? Like Kenwood KA 4006 ?No I don't have everything, sorry

There are two transistors
on the board. C458 = 2SC458 it's a NPN. Replace both. A transistor like 2SAxxx = PNP

Stene
Can you recommend a method of comparing old transistors with modern replacements - is there some holy grail like guide that shows suitable contemporary transistors, possibly online??
J

Stene
Can you recommend a method of comparing old transistors with modern replacements - is there some holy grail like guide that shows suitable contemporary transistors, possibly online??
JComparing old with modern ? The best method is by their specs

I use NTE cross reference #s. They usually works. But you need to verify as I was misleaded sometimes like NTE # 123A and 123AP has same specs but different pin out... Very bad to use wrong pin out. And you don't suspect this transistor as you just replaced it... When you have corespondent, you can also check the HFE using a multimeter. You can match pairs this way too.

Do you agree Stene ?

I use NTE cross reference #s. They usually works. But you need to verify as I was misleaded sometimes like NTE # 123A and 123AP has same specs but different pin out... Very bad to use wrong pin out. And you don't suspect this transistor as you just replaced it... When you have corespondent, you can also check the HFE using a multimeter. You can match pairs this way too.

Do you agree Stene ?I'm not fond of NTE as you never know what you get. It can be good but also bad because NTE isn't a manufacturer of transistors. They are buying large quantities from different companies and rename them to NTExxxx. Some DMM has a hFE mode other µF mode.

I usually get the NTE cross ref. number and buy a transistor with the same number at the electronic surplus store around which buys good and not so good transistors. I can then decide which one I want. I never bought NTE brand transistors.

I usually get the NTE cross ref. number and buy a transistor with the same number at the electronic surplus store around which buys good and not so good transistors. I can then decide which one I want. I never bought NTE brand transistors.Hm :scratch2: So in this case the transistor is 2SC458 and you get the NTE cross ref number which is NTE85.
What's next step if you never buy NTE ?

I get to my "surplus" electronics store with my transistor #. He first look if he has the exact replacement. If not, he uses the NTE #. He looks in his list and see what he has ( usually he can propose me 4 or 5 different "replacement" #s ). He then go and pick what I asked him to or what he propose me. If 2SC2240 is NTE85 in the charts, 2SC2240 will be in his list under NTE85 correspondant transistors if he has some in stock. Can be many others too. Never these parts has the "NTE" logo on them. Can be toshiba, Sanken, Sanyo, etc.

Quick one for you Stene, as you seems to have a lot of Sansui schems, is the AU-505 built using the same configuration as the AU-555 ?