View Full Version : Operation/user manual for Technics SL-1700MK2


Turbokeu
04-24-2007, 09:08 AM
In replacement of my 'old' (at most one hour of operation!) Technics SL-QD22 TT from the late 80's I scored a second hand Technics Direct Drive SL-1700 MK2 from 1980 on ebay:

http://www.turbokeu.com/myprojects/audio/pict0017.jpg

The SL-1700 MK2 (weight 12kg!) is the semiprofessional version of the famous SL-1200 MK2 TT with the same strong motor with quartz PLL-drive and the same arm mechanism.
The complete mechanism (drive platter and arm) is suspension mounted (the SL-1200 has a fixed mounting), and the arm mechanism is semi-automatic (the SL-1200 is completely manual).

The SL-1700 MK2 is esthetically in quite good condition (some scratches on the housing and the plexi cover), most of the buttons need a Deoxit treatment.

The semi-automatic operation originally didn't work anymore, but some googling teached me that the cause is a defectuous cueing belt on the arm/lift mechanism.
This belt is the weak point of the SL-1700, after 27 years it's more than logical that the rubber has worn out.
In the meanwhile I replaced this belt by a little rubber band till I find an original cueing belt.

Finally I will be able to replace the included Stanton 500 cartridge (the SL-QD22 has a fixed Audio Technica cartridge) by a beautiful Ortofon Concorde Pro set that I have laying around for years now:

http://www.turbokeu.com/myprojects/audio/pict0018.jpg

Nonetheless I have some troubles setting the arm balance and weight (I don't have the owner/operation manual).

My question: Does anyone owns/has a SL-1700 MK2 manual?

Only a torough cleaning, and a cover polishing left, and enjoy my old records...

Happy CD :)

Blue Shadow
04-24-2007, 10:39 AM
I had an SL-1800 Mk II, the manual version of that table, 1600 MkII is the full automatic. Very nice table, shoulda kept it.

The tonearm balance is straightforward. Rotate the counterweight until the arm floats at the table level then rotate the scale on the counterweight until the 0 is aligned with the line on the tonearm tube. Check that the arm is still floating at the table level. Then rotate the scale and counterweight to the desired tracking force.

I'm guessing you know all that and are having trouble getting the light weight cartridge to float. I don't know if the 1700 II has an extra weight in the end of the tonearm or not. If it does remove it and try again. If it does not, the cartridge would need more weight to work with this table.

Check the Vinylengine for a manual,

http://www.vinylengine.com/library.php?make=Technics

hakaplan
04-24-2007, 10:53 AM
The vinylengine.com only has the manual for the sl-1700 but balancing the arm and setting tracking force is the same. For the cueing belt, simply go to the hardware store and pick up a rubber "o" ring, 1/16" thick by 1-1/4 or 1-1/8" diameter. That's about 1.5mm thick by 29-31mm diam. That's essentially the same as the original belt and works perfectly.

Regarding your Concorde, be aware that many of these DJ cartridges were designed to be very rugged for DJ use and use very heavy tracking forces. Anything more than 2.5g is really too much for home use.

Duffinator
04-24-2007, 11:50 AM
Congratulations on your new TT. I recently purchased a SL-1700 MKII from my local craigslist. It's in very nice condition and plays beautifully. I'm impressed with the build quality and sound. I don't have a manual but if anybody finds one pass along the info.

BTW, there are bunch of mods for this TT. There is a member here on AK that rebuilds these along with the 1800 MKII. As part of his rebuild he paints the plinths. These TT's look a lot more pedestrian than their capabilities and a nice paint job really dresses them up. :thmbsp:

Turbokeu
04-25-2007, 03:29 AM
Thanks for the replies!

I found the SL-1700 (not MK2) user manual at vinylengine.com, it will surely help me with the balancing of the arm.
The arm does not have the extra weight, but it seems to me that the counterweight comes easily loose at certain points when rotating.
I will read the above manual and try again tonight.

Concorde Pro set: Bugger! I didn't realise it's a DJ cartridge.... :bash:
Well, the Concorde cart was a gift, I can probably resell it easily.

Okay then, time to look for a Shure M97xe or another fine cartridge. Any hints?

The paint job (if well done) seems a good idea to get rid of the scratches (mostly due to the missing dustcover rubber dampers).

CD :)

Stanton681EEES
04-30-2007, 07:36 PM
Does anyone know why on the 1700MKII's there isn't a manual cueing lever but the 1600 and 1800MKII's have one?

Just seems strange that the 1800MKII would have which makes sense being it's fully manual and of coarse the 1600MKII is automatic, but you would think the 1700MKII would have one as well being it's semi-automatic.:scratch2:

Stanton681EEES
04-30-2007, 07:39 PM
In replacement of my 'old' (at most one hour of operation!) Technics SL-QD22 TT from the late 80's I scored a second hand Technics Direct Drive SL-1700 MK2 from 1980 on ebay:

http://www.turbokeu.com/myprojects/audio/pict0017.jpg

The SL-1700 MK2 (weight 12kg!) is the semiprofessional version of the famous SL-1200 MK2 TT with the same strong motor with quartz PLL-drive and the same arm mechanism.
The complete mechanism (drive platter and arm) is suspension mounted (the SL-1200 has a fixed mounting), and the arm mechanism is semi-automatic (the SL-1200 is completely manual).

The SL-1700 MK2 is esthetically in quite good condition (some scratches on the housing and the plexi cover), most of the buttons need a Deoxit treatment.

The semi-automatic operation originally didn't work anymore, but some googling teached me that the cause is a defectuous cueing belt on the arm/lift mechanism.
This belt is the weak point of the SL-1700, after 27 years it's more than logical that the rubber has worn out.
In the meanwhile I replaced this belt by a little rubber band till I find an original cueing belt.

Finally I will be able to replace the included Stanton 500 cartridge (the SL-QD22 has a fixed Audio Technica cartridge) by a beautiful Ortofon Concorde Pro set that I have laying around for years now:

http://www.turbokeu.com/myprojects/audio/pict0018.jpg

Nonetheless I have some troubles setting the arm balance and weight (I don't have the owner/operation manual).

My question: Does anyone owns/has a SL-1700 MK2 manual?

Only a torough cleaning, and a cover polishing left, and enjoy my old records...

Happy CD :)
You can get the info you need as others have said @ vinylengine as I got the manual for my 1800MKII as well as the service manual for the 1600MKII

Duffinator
04-30-2007, 08:01 PM
You can get the info you need as others have said @ vinylengine as I got the manual for my 1800MKII as well as the service manual for the 1600MKIIWhich manual for the 1800? I don't see any manual for the 1800 MK II.

hakaplan
04-30-2007, 09:41 PM
Since the 1700MK2 uses the automation belt, if it had a cueing lever it would activate an automated, motor driven cueing as it does on the 1600mk2, not oil-damped, manual as on the 1800mk2. On the 1700mk2 the button on the front panel operates the cueing the same as a lever would.

virak
05-01-2007, 12:06 PM
Regarding the Ortofon Concorde Pro cart: The Super OM10-40 styli fits perfectly, as does the OMB5E stylus. I'd recommend getting a KAB FD-1200 fluid damper, too. I've got one, and it really makes a difference. Btw, I found the correct sized belt for my SL-1700Mk2 arm in a $1 bag of mixed rubberbands ;)

Stanton681EEES
05-01-2007, 06:47 PM
Since the 1700MK2 uses the automation belt, if it had a cueing lever it would activate an automated, motor driven cueing as it does on the 1600mk2, not oil-damped, manual as on the 1800mk2. On the 1700mk2 the button on the front panel operates the cueing the same as a lever would.

Thanks Howard I've often wondered as to that.............:yes:

Paulfxl
05-01-2007, 09:10 PM
Anyone know the "official" size of the tone arm belt in belt length terms;

I've tried rubber bands, they break quickly, and my local hardware stores don't seem to have O rings big enough.

Thanks

hakaplan
05-01-2007, 09:20 PM
1/16" thick by 1-1/4" or 1-1/8" diameter. Try a different hardware store--they should carry it. There is a place online somewhere that sells them for $7, but I'd rather pay 50 cents. I'll try to find out the brand name of the mfr of the one I bought.

Turbokeu
05-02-2007, 12:03 AM
1/16" thick by 1-1/4" or 1-1/8" diameter. Try a different hardware store--they should carry it. There is a place online somewhere that sells them for $7, but I'd rather pay 50 cents. I'll try to find out the brand name of the mfr of the one I bought.
Thanks for the cueing belt dimensions, I will try to find a local HW store that carry O-rings.

CD :)

Turbokeu
05-06-2007, 04:25 AM
Bugger, it seems that I can't source o-rings with the correct dimensions locally...
All I can find are metric o-rings (R22, R23, R24) which are 3.60mm thick.

Is anyone willing to send me some suitable British or American standard o-rings?
I will pay all expenses and I have a Paypal account.
Edit: hakaplan is willing to send me some o-rings. What a great service on this forum!

Also I'd liked to replace the original dustcover of my SL-1700MK2.
I found cheap SL-1200 replacement covers here (http://www.1200s.com/Store).
The SL-1200 dust cover is less high (with a bubble for the arm mechanism) than the original SL-1700MK2 cover but is IMHO aesthetically nicer.

@hakaplan: Do you know if the locations/dimensions of the hinges are identical between the two covers?

Edit: Stanton681EEES indicated me an even cheaper source for the dustcover here (http://www.partstore.com/Part/Matsushita/Panasonic/SFAD12201A/New.aspx).

CD :)

Turbokeu
05-08-2007, 04:57 PM
The 'American standard' O-rings (5 pieces) in replacement of the original 'cueing belt' are on their way (thanks to hakaplan).

Since the SL-1700MK2 was again dimantled (I had a little problem with the right channel audio output) I used my time to execute some 'mods'. ;)
1st mod: Replace the seven original 5mm red LEDs of the strobo by 5mm blue LEDs. After testing I noticed that the luminosity of the strobo with the new blue LEDs was quite lower than before.
A couple of measurings indicated that the power supply for the strobo LEDs was about +20V, too less for 7x blue LEDs (7x 3.4V=23.8V).
I removed two of the seven LEDs and replaced their location by a wire bridge (5 blue LEDs = 5x 3.4V=17V). Together with the 120R original series resistor the luminosity is now perfect.

2nd mod: Replace the middle 5x2mm green LED of the pitch display by a 5x2mm blue LED.
This was a much more difficult operation as the 13 LEDs (6x red-1x green-6x red) are glued together in a 'holder' and soldered to the control board.
Therefore I desoldered the 13 LEDs, removed the glue, and replaced the green LED by a blue one (+ a hole in my thumb :().
The luminosity of the new 5x2mm LED, together with the original 100R series resistor, was eyeblinding.
First I tried a 470R resistor, and then a 1K2 resistor.
Much better but I 'feel' that 2K2 would be perfect.

I'm not keen to dismantle everything again for that little 2K2 resistor, I will wait the repainting of the aluminum upper chassis (hint to the color: http://www.motip.com/index.php?page=30&id=51&lid=709).

Enough talking, let's see some pictures! ;)

http://www.turbokeu.com/myprojects/audio/pict0023.jpg

http://www.turbokeu.com/myprojects/audio/pict0024.jpg

http://www.turbokeu.com/myprojects/audio/pict0025.jpg

http://www.turbokeu.com/myprojects/audio/pict0026.jpg

http://www.turbokeu.com/myprojects/audio/pict0027.jpg

CD :)

PS: Afterwards I searched for about a hour why my auto return/auto stop feature didn't work anymore.
The 'auto return on/off' push button was simply turned off...:(

PS2: On the second and fourth picture you can see some scratches in the silver painting. This is why I intend to repaint the TT.

virak
05-10-2007, 08:27 PM
:thmbsp: I've done the same with an SL-1200Mk2, and have been wondering if it would look good on a SL-1700Mk2. Sure did!
Btw, I just scored the same type Concorde as you've got really cheap on eBay (without stylus). I'll put a NOS OM40 stylus on it ;)

lplover
05-10-2007, 09:55 PM
Is the Concorde a DJ cart/stylus? if so, you probably should opt for something else, since they usually have a high tracking force and are probably spherical.

Turbokeu
05-11-2007, 05:35 AM
The five spare o-rings from hakaplan arrived well this morning (thanks hakaplan!).

I ordered a new SL-1200 dustcover from www.1200s.com.
I hope that the little anti-scratch rubber dampers in both the front corners of the cover are included (I'm missing one on the original cover, cause of some scratches onto the silver paint of the chassis).

I also ordered a real SL-1700MK2 Service Manual ($16.99) from www.manuals-in-pdf.com.
The link to the download page should be sent to me shortly (delivery in about 10 days).
The SL-1600MK2 Service manual was a great help but there are too many differences with the SL-1700MK2, especially in the PCB layouts/component locations, mainly because of the full automatic functions on the SL-1600MK2.

This weekend I will start the sanding/painting job on the aluminum upper chassis.
Therefore I have to dismantle the SL-1700MK2 completely as all electronic boards (except for the motor drive board) and the frontpanel are located on the upper chassis.
I will take a lot of pictures to help me in the correct rebuild (especially for the cabling and type/location of screws) after the paint job.

The colour that I bought for the repaint job is a pale metallic purple from the 'Special trends' series from Motip.
I hope it wil turn out very nice.

CD :)

virak
05-11-2007, 07:22 AM
Is the Concorde a DJ cart/stylus? if so, you probably should opt for something else, since they usually have a high tracking force and are probably spherical.
It is a DJ-cart, but I'll be using an OM40 stylus on it. I also have the KAB fluid damper ;)
Check this link for a review of a similar combo: http://www.tnt-audio.com/sorgenti/technics_sl1200_2_e.html

I use Shure M44- and M35-series cartridges for DJ applications, the DJ-Ortofons are infamous for ruining records!

Blue Meanie
05-11-2007, 11:45 AM
The 'American standard' O-rings (5 pieces) in replacement of the original 'cueing belt' are on their way (thanks to hakaplan).

Since the SL-1700MK2 was again dimantled (I had a little problem with the right channel audio output) I used my time to execute some 'mods'. ;)
1st mod: Replace the seven original 5mm red LEDs of the strobo by 5mm blue LEDs. After testing I noticed that the luminosity of the strobo with the new blue LEDs was quite lower than before.
A couple of measurings indicated that the power supply for the strobo LEDs was about +20V, too less for 7x blue LEDs (7x 3.4V=23.8V).
I removed two of the seven LEDs and replaced their location by a wire bridge (5 blue LEDs = 5x 3.4V=17V). Together with the 120R original series resistor the luminosity is now perfect.

2nd mod: Replace the middle 5x2mm green LED of the pitch display by a 5x2mm blue LED.
This was a much more difficult operation as the 13 LEDs (6x red-1x green-6x red) are glued together in a 'holder' and soldered to the control board.
Therefore I desoldered the 13 LEDs, removed the glue, and replaced the green LED by a blue one (+ a hole in my thumb :().
The luminosity of the new 5x2mm LED, together with the original 100R series resistor, was eyeblinding.
First I tried a 470R resistor, and then a 1K2 resistor.
Much better but I 'feel' that 2K2 would be perfect.

I'm not keen to dismantle everything again for that little 2K2 resistor, I will wait the repainting of the aluminum upper chassis (hint to the color: http://www.motip.com/index.php?page=30&id=51&lid=709).

Enough talking, let's see some pictures! ;)


CD :)

PS: Afterwards I searched for about a hour why my auto return/auto stop feature didn't work anymore.
The 'auto return on/off' push button was simply turned off...:(

PS2: On the second and fourth picture you can see some scratches in the silver painting. This is why I intend to repaint the TT.

The blue replacement LEDs look great!:thmbsp: So far I've only replaced the stylus illuminator bulb with 2 blue LEDs on my 1800Mk2 (surprised you haven't). That pitch LED sounds kinda tricky. Now that I see how good yours turned out, I'll be copycatting very soon. Nice work!!:thmbsp: :D

Jeff

Turbokeu
05-12-2007, 02:41 AM
Thanks!

The fact that the original 7x red LEDs are replaced by only 5x blue LEDs is no problem since actual LEDs are much brighter than the old '70 years red LEDs (and I even used diffused LEDs because that's what I had laying around).

The middle pitch LED is indeed a bitch to replace but it is worth it IMHO.
I should have taken pictures of the swap procedure...
First remove the solder on the 26 solder pads of the 13 LEDs with a desoldering pump and desoldering braid (this is the easy part).
Remove the LEDs as a whole in their black holder.
The LEDs are originally inserted from the back of the holder and glued together on their wire side.
With a cutter/Xacto knife remove as much as possible of the glue on the middle green LED and the two adjacent red LEDs.
When done push the middle green LED with a screwdriver out of the holder (that's where I found myself with the screwdriver half a centimeter in my thumb...).
Now its just a matter of inserting the new blue 5x2mm LED (do not invert the anode/cathode wires), insert the holder and all LED wires again through their original solder pads, adjust height/position of the middle blue LED, and solder back the connections.
After power on you can estimate from the relative brightness between the original red LEDs and the new blue LED if the 100R serial resistor R443 on the control board has to be adapted to a new value and replaced.

I will swap the stylus illuminator bulb for sure as soon I have a white high brightness wide angle (160) SMD mounting LED (easier to mount in the illuminator housing).

CD :)

Stanton681EEES
05-15-2007, 07:56 AM
Thanks!

The fact that the original 7x red LEDs are replaced by only 5x blue LEDs is no problem since actual LEDs are much brighter than the old '70 years red LEDs (and I even used diffused LEDs because that's what I had laying around).

The middle pitch LED is indeed a bitch to replace but it is worth it IMHO.
I should have taken pictures of the swap procedure...
First remove the solder on the 26 solder pads of the 13 LEDs with a desoldering pump and desoldering braid (this is the easy part).
Remove the LEDs as a whole in their black holder.
The LEDs are originally inserted from the back of the holder and glued together on their wire side.
With a cutter/Xacto knife remove as much as possible of the glue on the middle green LED and the two adjacent red LEDs.
When done push the middle green LED with a screwdriver out of the holder (that's where I found myself with the screwdriver half a centimeter in my thumb...).
Now its just a matter of inserting the new blue 5x2mm LED (do not invert the anode/cathode wires), insert the holder and all LED wires again through their original solder pads, adjust height/position of the middle blue LED, and solder back the connections.
After power on you can estimate from the relative brightness between the original red LEDs and the new blue LED if the 100R serial resistor R443 on the control board has to be adapted to a new value and replaced.

I will swap the stylus illuminator bulb for sure as soon I have a white high brightness wide angle (160) SMD mounting LED (easier to mount in the illuminator housing).

CD :)
I really like what you did with yours. I wonder what a black light would look like or if it would be to dark. Just curious as to why you bought your dustcover from 1200.com vs the link I sent you? Did it have something to do with overseas shipping? I noticed your platter looks like mine did till i cleaned it up seems like most of them suffer from neglect and lacking of cleaning from previous owners. I'm pulling mine this weekend and priming and painting the strobe ring. Keep the posts and pics coming:yes:

Turbokeu
05-15-2007, 01:23 PM
Thanks Stanton681EEES!

I have a couple of dozens of UV/black light LEDs and I can tell you they put a (visibly) very weak purple light.
They work very well on white paper and any fluorescent object, but they are really unusable as strobe light on a platter.

partstore.com does indeed not ship to Europe so I had to order the dustcover from 1200s.com.

My platter looks okay, I cleaned it with a tootbrush and an industrial cleaning product (I can't remember if the pics above where made before or after the platter cleaning, probably before).

As told before I have to make pics of every part that I dismantle for the painting job to be able to put it all together correctly, therefore pics WILL follow. ;)

CD :)

Stanton681EEES
05-15-2007, 06:43 PM
I forgot to mention in my earlier post as it was early when I posted, that maybe the blacklight would look good against a black background and since I'm painting my strobe ring black it just poped into my head. Probably wouldn't work, was just a thought thoughThanks Stanton681EEES!

I have a couple of dozens of UV/black light LEDs and I can tell you they put a (visibly) very weak purple light.
They work very well on white paper and any fluorescent object, but they are really unusable as strobe light on a platter.

partstore.com does indeed not ship to Europe so I had to order the dustcover from 1200s.com.

My platter looks okay, I cleaned it with a tootbrush and an industrial cleaning product (I can't remember if the pics above where made before or after the platter cleaning, probably before).

As told before I have to make pics of every part that I dismantle for the painting job to be able to put it all together correctly, therefore pics WILL follow. ;)

CD :)

Turbokeu
06-09-2007, 05:05 AM
I ordered a new SL-1200 dustcover from www.1200s.com.
I hope that the little anti-scratch rubber dampers in both the front corners of the cover are included (I'm missing one on the original cover, cause of some scratches onto the silver paint of the chassis).
Is there anyone here that could confirm the presence of these little rubber dampers in the front corners of a new dustcover? (still waiting for my cover from 1200s.com to arrive).
I also ordered a real SL-1700MK2 Service Manual ($16.99) from www.manuals-in-pdf.com.
The real SL-1700MK2 service manual is now in my possesion. :banana:

In the meanwhile I bought a second hand Ortofon VMS20E cartridge with a near mint stylus, and a spare NOS D20E stylus.
My audioquest headshell leads arrived too, as well as the original Technics SWF0010 spindle oil from KAB.

I did a repaint job on the original Technics (black) headshell to test out the Motip "Special Trends Silent Purple' colour for the plinth.
On the left a (too heavy) silver headshell from ebay with the VMS20E mounted, on the right the repainted black Technics headshell:
http://www.turbokeu.com/myprojects/audio/pict0028.jpg
The weight difference between the two headshells is about 2.24gr (6.82gr vs. 9.06gr), therefore I will stick to the lighter Technics headshell.
Also, the Motip 'Silent Purple' paint is not purple enough to my taste, so I bought two other Motip colours: Special Trends 'Metallic Violet' and 'Mystic Violet' to try out (and Motip white primer + transparent satin varnish).

CD :)

lasminit2
11-26-2009, 10:25 PM
OK!
>>> Bump <<<
It's a couple of years later now, what happened? We are waiting for the pictures ; )

steph_gaynor
11-27-2009, 09:28 AM
Hi, a few days ago I uploaded my copy of the owner's manual to VE. It is up now.


http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-1700.shtml (http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-1700.shtml)

Best, Stephanie

KentTeffeteller
11-27-2009, 12:55 PM
A note!

Don't get rid of that Concorde Pro. Install an OM 10-OM 40 stylus on it and you have an OM series plug and play cart with versatile stylus options. It's a nice cartridge. I would love to see Ortofon make a 1-2 gram VTF conical for the OM line and Pro line.

thedelihaus
11-27-2009, 01:04 PM
Hi, a few days ago I uploaded my copy of the owner's manual to VE. It is up now.


http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-1700.shtml (http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-1700.shtml)

Best, Stephanie


You ROCK!

Much2learn
06-10-2010, 01:36 AM
Could anyone briefly summarize what the differences are between the 1700 and the 1700 MK2?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Blue Meanie
06-10-2010, 02:21 AM
Could anyone briefly summarize what the differences are between the 1700 and the 1700 MK2?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Briefly? Doubtful. They are pretty much 2 completely different 'tables. But I'm sure that someone will be along briefly to prove me wrong.:D

The Mk2 has quartz lock, a different arm, and adjustable VTA. Also a different control arrangement. They are both nice turntables, but I think the Mk2 is marginally superior.

fastbike
06-10-2010, 03:58 PM
Manuals for both versions are there. You can get a brief synopsis by selecting the SL1700 in the library section.

Much2learn
06-11-2010, 12:23 AM
Thanks guys, that was handy info (and so quick!).

Cheers