This better?

This is on a Sansui G-9000. The originals were so bOrked-up that you could not even get a wire into them. Not like it was a big loss, but replacing the spring jobbies with something else turns into a bit of work. However, sometimes ya got no choice.

:eek: Wow!!!

Hell of a job! :)

Gee whiz, Echo, that is some pretty conections.I am always amazed at your skills

Alan

that looks awesome!

How difficult is it to do that, and where do you buy the parts? I have a subwoofer that needs the clips replaced.

Great job. I bought what I think are the very same connectors out of the PartsExpress catalog for my AU-717. I haven't installed them as I was trying to figure out a way to attach the insulator panel to the chassis frame without drilling any holes in the frame. It looks like you managed to do it. Did you glue it on?

Look again. There are five stainless screws holding it in (nuts and lockwashers on the inside), you can see the top two and the one in the middle. I just did it as neat as I could, and apparently it worked if your eye was not drawn to the screws. Could have even painted the screws, but bare stainless looks nice. The plastic is actually dark bronze plexiglass, and with a flashlight you can look inside the amp (big woop...I see the insides of plenty of amps ;) ).

These are indeed from Parts Express parts. They do the job quite nicely.

Edit: Just took a look at the 717 that I got here for repair. It uses the same damn crummy spring connectors that the G-9000 has. I honestly don't think a glue is gonna do it. Use screws, and paint the heads black if you think the shiny ends might bug you.

Originally posted by Tleilax
How difficult is it to do that, and where do you buy the parts? I have a subwoofer that needs the clips replaced. I had no choice on this amp...the originals were in really really bad shape. It was no party, and to get the plexi I had to drive from one side of Kansas City to the other (it's a big city folks!). I suppose I could have thrown it together, but I'm an obsessive-compulsive/perfectionist when it comes to my work. To do it, and do it right, I probably spent the lion's share of a day. I think the end results justify the effort.

If they had been snakes they would have bit me! But they don't look bad at all. ....Hmmmm? ........ I'm thinking very small stainless steel socket head cap screws.
>
And I like your idea of a one piece insulator fitted from the back. I was thinking of two oversized retangular pieces, milled to fit through the original cutouts from the front side . They would look like this:
>
_______________________________
___ ____ |
| ______________________|
>
A back piece would be like this _____________________________
_____________________________|

Screws would fit through the front plastic insulator at the thicker part and pass through another retangular plastic insulator with lock washers and nuts behind it. The metal frame would be trapped between the two piece of insulator at their edges. The screws would only pass through the insulators therefore no drilling in the the metal chassis frame.
>
Just a thought but requires a milling machine.
>
And right now what I really need to do is get those damn spring clips wire holders out of there!!!!!!!

EW,

Nice! :thmbsp: Now that's how it should have been done in the first place! Any chance we'll be seeing more photos of that G-9000 when you're done with it?

RobV

:scratch2: Damn! That didn't come out right. Drafting on AK is near impossible. Someone needs to incorporate AutoCad into this website.

EW, excellent job. Many is the time I wondered about replacing not just the speaker terminals but the rca connectors as well.
You da man!.
Bill

Echo,

Really fine job there. Looks great and very functional.

In case anybody wants the link, I'm pretty sure this is it
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&St=9004&St2=-37889465&St3=41947625&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=2443&DID=7
Beautiful work as usual!

If my memory serves me correctly (doubtful), I have seen on Ebay an MC2100 or MC250 with upgraded connectors,,,looked good in my book..

Nice Job Echo as usual...;)

Dom.

Hi there EW,

Thanks for taking the time to post the photo of the improved speaker terminal connectors, they sure look nice!

I can understand what you're saying about the spring clips - Ive noticed that if one uses, say a long run of Monster Cable with pin connectors, the long run does tend to cause the cables to hang down from the spring clips (there appears to be a downward force exerted on the cables such that they'd like to easily come out of the spring clips if they could - the spring clips do hold the cables in the connectors, but it does seem like they have to be repositioned in there on some occasions in order to make the connection more secure)

And as far a spring clips go, well, atleast they are a bit wider and feel less brittle on the G's, AU-717 etc.., than on the 9090DB Line and previous models.

In the 80's, Sansui made models (such as my AU-D7 & Z-5000X) with twist-lock terminals- so forget about using pin connectors as they simply dont fit in there.

B/F

Ps: EW- let me know if you might be interested to tackle a very challenging project, correcting the Oscillation problem on a Sansui AU-X1 amplifier I have. I dont know how familiar you are with the AU-X1 (the matching amp to the venerable TU-X1 Tuner) but I can assure you, you wouldnt be bored testing it out and trying to tame the amp. When the Oscillation occurs, and it happens like this (instantaneous snap of the fingers) all the output transistors go POOF (original Q's are the Sanken 2SC2493 & 2SA1068) and the driver board takes a big hit resulting in alot of fried components - luckily the whole amp itself doesnt catch fire.

B/F

I've found these work well with my vintage Sansui amps - spring clips or binding posts:

http://monstercable.com/productPage.asp?pin=1273

The braid doesn't slip in the spring clips. They can accomodate wire as large as 10ga.

RobV

Originally posted by RobV
Any chance we'll be seeing more photos of that G-9000 when you're done with it?

RobV Ya know, I had planned to shooting a few shots of it, covers off and all. Me being the sometimes space-case that I am, just realized that I forgot to do so, and now it's packed to the 9's and ready to ship. :dammit:

Well-built unit, great sound. I think the cosmetics need to grow on you, but this amp is designed to rock the house. Sorry about the pics... :stupid:

I second the Monster Cable connectors. I use the same ones for my AU-11000. Work great never slip and work welll with the 12GA Monster cable wiring!

Will they fit in the type of terminals that this amp has?:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3058216038&category=3280

B/F

I doubt it.... just where does the seller get 1000 watts (per channel!)?
:wtf:

RobV

Well, the only thing I can think of is that he accidentally typed in an extra zero to make 1000 instead of 100 but even so, that is still the wrong wattage. Most people who dont know but wont say they dont know will use the non-rms wattage spec on the back of the amp, in the case of the AU-D7 that would be 270W.

B/F

Or the meters are calibrated to 1000w. "if it says so on the meter then it must be true" :p:

Jack

The binding posts you used look just the thing I'm going to
try out on a McIntosh MC-502 power amp I picked up the
other day. The amp has the older screw type speaker
terminals, which are messed up. Someone broke out
the plastic insulator which separates the positive from
the negative speakers on one channel. Binding posts are
much better connectors.

Eicofan

Can anyone give me any guidance; I'm about to attempt this on my 7070....

thanks,
JC

Since I have a 7070 open on the bench right now, I can say that it would be quite easy compared to the G-9000 pictured.

Get something to use as a mounting plate...black plastic or Plexiglass. On the 7070 it looks like it would need to be about 3 1/4" wide by 2 1/2" tall. Remove the old wires and shitcan the spring connectors, align the new piece and mark it for the four mounting holes. Drill it, and install with new screws and nuts/lockwasher. For now, just install with one screw on top, and the other on bottom. Now from the rear mark the place to drill the plastic for the new gold posts. I'd suggest making them the proper width apart so that you can use one of these (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=13795748&St=4709&St2=-59984524&St3=-92045022&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=2478&DID=7) should you choose to do so (which would mean that the '+' and '-' for each channel is 0.7" apart to accomodate a dual bananna plug). Remove the plastic, drill the holes, and install the binding posts.

I discovered that the stock rear 'washer' that comes with the binding post is a POS, and went to the hardware store and bought some nylon washers for the rear of the assembly. The stock ones tighten crookedly, and you lose the 0.7" spacing.

After the posts are installed and before you bolt it in, resolder all the wires. You will need a short length of 18ga wire to join the Neg terminals, but the Pos should be OK. You will also need a decent 20 - 25W soldering iron, and some electronic soldering flux to smear on the ass-end of the binding posts to aid in soldering the wires. Why? Because without the flux, you will be holding the iron on the post so long to get the solder flowing you will melt the plastic washers on the front and rear of the posts. You need to get it soldered and get the hell out of there before things start to overheat.

That's it. Mount the new terminal board and admire your work.