I got some inexpensive brass spikes with shoes off Ebay. I hope the ones I got were ok, but I don't see many available online that I could easily buy. Anyway these ones are similar to this Ebay listing: 260167309826.

Anyway I'm wondering two things. These are going onto the base of the MDF/K3 board of a Thorens turntable. Im wanting to physically screw them into that board so they are sturdy and permanently on there. I don't want to just double-side tape them on or glue them there. First off should I use just three of the spikes in a triangle formation (2 front, 1 rear), or should I use all 4 spikes? Secondly not having seen the base of the spikes, the middle section to the tip has a thread which I can use to screw into the wood baseboard. Is it necessary to use the circular base that the tip screws into to achieve the dampenning effect? Or would using just the tips work? I need to use some sort of spikes because the original feet were taken off this table. Again I just don't want to glue them on, but physically screw them in the board.

I believe you will give up any adjustment if you do that. try a search on the bay in consumer electronics - use isolation. tons of options. I use 4 large BBC cones on my Td125 MkII

Three spikes usually better for decoupling AND leveling. Not sure if I completely followed the description of yours, but I've found the spikes with a threaded insert for your MDF base (pre-drill the base, glue or silicone in the insert, then screw the cones/spikes into them) work best.

Three spikes usually better for decoupling AND leveling. Not sure if I completely followed the description of yours, but I've found the spikes with a threaded insert for your MDF base (pre-drill the base, glue or silicone in the insert, then screw the cones/spikes into them) work best.

Some folks like three spikes, and some four.
If the base of the Table is square, which I believe it is, then most likely four Spikes I feel would be the best way to go, one at each corner will give the best stability, and strength to support the weight of the table.

Accidentally bumping the table with only three spikes may have the Table tilt like a teeter-totter.

Whether just double faced taped, or mechanically screwed in, either method should give a noticable improvement versus little rubber feet, which come on many Tables. You could always try the tape method first, the perhaps purchase some T-Nuts from a place such as Parts Express, or perhaps Madisound, who specialize in carrying T-Nuts for attaching Speaker Drivers to Baffle Boards.

I would assume the solid, threaded attachment to base would be a better way to go. You wouldn;t ever have to worry about a Spike falling off either with this arrangement. Will take a bit more work as mentioned, with drilling, fitting the Threaded T-Nuts, and insuring they are properly positioned at all four corners (or two front corners, and centralized at the rear, the choice will ultimately be yours)

Is the thread size 1/4"-20 thread? With the T-Nut Method, this still should offer you a degree of leveling. I think I can envision the Spike you have bought. Does it have a top section which is knurled, and they typically sell for about $25-$30 for four? If so, then I think I know the ones. Mark

That is about the right price. I actually included an Ebay item number which you can take a closer look. But here are some pics. At this point I'm thinking of using all 4 and drilling in a circle inset into the board and glueing the base in. Now I'd just have to figure out how to get the holes all drilled to the same level. I will only get it drilled halfway into the board, so there will be lots of wood left below the base. If anyone cares the table is the TD 147 and the board is square and like K3 board.

Accidentally bumping the table with only three spikes may have the Table tilt like a teeter-totter.
Properly spaced, three spikes will be very stable and give a better "pounds per point of contact" ratio.

Those look familiar, guess I saw your link, nice.
I thought 4 was the way to go, but have had good results with 3 spikes
on TT,s & CD player.
I used a drill press, you just set the depth stop, and repeat.
A drop or two of epoxy should hold the brass and wood no problem.
braxus if you are in Bby drop in and we can drill your base if that helps.

braxus if you are in Bby drop in and we can drill your base if that helps.


I'll see first if anyone does it here in Chilliwack. If not I'll consider your offer.

braxus,
I use 4 on my Thorens due to the construction of the plinth. There is no solid suport except on the corners, and the TD125 MkII is a very heavy table. I also Cut out the masonite board on the bottom, and it improved the sound. FWIW
Jim

I had the turntable base worked on and glued the spiked feet with base into the board. Since I've hooked it all back up, I now seem to be getting a humm from somewhere. To rule out it might be the location of the table, I moved it around and the humm stays. Is it possible these feet are causing the hum? I thought it was only magnets that caused this. If this is the case- will a sheet of copper on the turntable base board shield those feet eliminating the hum? Again the feet are brass, but the metal base they screw into I cannot say what metal it is. Any ideas?

Check the ground connection from the tone arm to the interconect board, as it may have come loose while the base was worked on. Also remove the headshell and make sure all connections to and from the cartridge are tight. Might solve the problem. The glued spike feet cannot cause hum IMHO!
Jim

I'd vote for 3 feet, and use some thin transfer tape, the weight of the Thorens should be more than enough to ensure good contact and that way you can re-position or upgrade the feet if you need to at a later date without drilling any more holes.

:nono:
Oh, and don't let totem touch your turntable...it'll end up with 1" thick quad shielded interconnects, a dual density space-base and ballbearing's for feet...and maybe some sketchy soldering if I'm around
:stupid:

The board has already been drilled and the feet glued on, so its permanent now without replacing the board with something else.

So what did you end up with? 3 or 4?

I got 4 spikes in the auction, so for safety sake (I tend to tip things a lot), I went with 4. I tested the turntable with the board taken off, and the hum is still there. So something else is amiss. I checked the leads to the cartridge- ok. I checked the ground connection to the preamp- ok. So somewhere else something isn't right. You really gotta watch those spikes. Without the feet, they sure easily scratch whatever they touch.

braxus,

Have you played this Thorens before the new spikes, on the same equipment, without any hum?

If you don't get much traffic in this thread on the issue, maybe post another thread with Thorens and Hum in the title.

Did you check the internal wiring to make sure that the ground is ok on the connection board between the tone arm leads and leads to the preamp?
Jim

There was no hum when I first had the table hooked up and run for a while. I just noticed it after I did the mod. So I can't say for certain it wasn't there before, but the fact I never noticed it sounds like it wasn't.

When I had the base open, I didn't see any loose wiring. The ground seems to be attached, but I can't say for certain. I guess I'll have to open her up again and look.