I don't know of any one site that has lots of ROK info. The tables that they made are good and I think more people might avail themselves of them if there was more info available. I've collected a little bit of info and will try to get the ball rolling. If you have interest/info/pics then post 'em up.

Here are pics of the B12H that I got as taken by the seller - an amateur photographer.

Here are other pics that I already posted in a previous thread so I can't repost:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=138238

That's the Rolls of ROK motors in that B12H there jc!
Here's a nice Rek-O-Kut DIY page with lots of pics and info.
http://members.myactv.net/~je2a3/roktips.htm
- Mario

I'd like to get one of these but do not know where to begin.

Great page, Mario! If you run across any other good info/ads/replinth pics send 'em this way.

Great page, Mario! If you run across any other good info/ads/replinth pics send 'em this way.

Joyce,
There are a couple of eager to share type ROK fans on the Vinyl forum at Audio Asylum.
I'm sure they'd love to assisst. :yes: :thmbsp:

I have stated before that ROK's are among the best bargins in vintage players. I love my B-12H. The only problem with this thread is once the word gets out prices will only go up.

I'd like to get one of these but do not know where to begin.

I found mine on the infamous auction site. Other good places - craigslist.org and local estate sales.

Joyce,
There are a couple of eager to share type ROK fans on the Vinyl forum at Audio Asylum.
I'm sure they'd love to assisst. :yes: :thmbsp:

I may have wander over and see what I can stir up over there.

I have stated before that ROK's are among the best bargins in vintage players. I love my B-12H. The only problem with this thread is once the word gets out prices will only go up.

I agree. I just got a scan of a catalog that has prices for some Thorens including the TD-124 and some ROKs. The TD-124 was 99.95 and the ROK B-12H was 129.95! That was a lot of money and a big difference in price. I knew the B-12H looked very well built but had no idea it was 30% more than a TD-124! Now my problem could be getting this resized so I can post it.

What about Knight.

I had a K33H TT some years back, built like a tank and since I don't have any 45s the single speed was no problem, just the sheer size.

I just got a scan of a catalog that has prices for some Thorens including the TD-124 and some ROKs. The TD-124 was 99.95 and the ROK B-12H was 129.95! That was a lot of money and a big difference in price. I knew the B-12H looked very well built but had no idea it was 30% more than a TD-124! Now my problem could be getting this resized so I can post it.

I would love to see that. If and when you get that scaned please post it.

I have been eyeing the Garrard 301's to round out my collection but I don't think that will be happening anytime soon.

I'll post some new pics of my Rondine Jr, fresh Cardas wire for the Pickering tonearm. I have the owners manual I'll scan and post in the next week or so. In the meantime, here is a good AK thread:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=106700&highlight=rek-o-kut+b-12h

Here's my K-33. Best table I've ever owned!

The link is to a slideshow with nice photos:

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg312/funkwrench/?albumview=slideshow

I hadn't seen one before but it's the consumer version of ROK's top 16" commercial broadcast table.

.

Justen, has anyone ever told you your avatar looks alot like NASCAR driver Jimmy Johnson's J on his sig.And you live in NC are you really Jimmy?
20 goes into 48 a hella'v alot more than 48 goes into 20!!

Justen, has anyone ever told you your avatar looks alot like NASCAR driver Jimmy Johnson's J on his sig.And you live in NC are you really Jimmy?
20 goes into 48 a hella'v alot more than 48 goes into 20!!

I'm not Jimmy. But I have met him several times.

jcmjrt perhaps I can take another look for further information on the ROK,s

I believe after you posted those great looking pic,s of yours, I did manage to

come up with a parts list and a few other details that were forwarded to you.

What about an AK sticky in regards to the parts lists, models, and other of the

day information?

If we can get a few more items up, I'd like to make it a sticky to collect posts on ROKs. I have a couple of other pics/info but am not savvy about resizing to fit AK size limits.

If we can get a few more items up, I'd like to make it a sticky to collect posts on ROKs. I have a couple of other pics/info but am not savvy about resizing to fit AK size limits.


If you want to email the images I have Photoshop and can take care of the sizing issues. :thmbsp:

Here are scans for the Rondine 34 & 37

I've got the set up instructions for the weird Pickering arm I have as well, though I doubt there's much demand for that.

Part 2

That is some great information on the L34. I have been working on mine and the speed works fine on 45. On the 33 1/3 i get some slight variations. works fine a few seconds then not and so on. I am missing the eclip and washers(?) on the 33 idler. would that cause this variation in speed? from the idler perhaps moving up and down slowly? Thank you for any information.

Instruction scans of Rondine B-12H & B-12

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z196/totem02/REK001.jpg


http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z196/totem02/REK002.jpg


http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z196/totem02/REK003.jpg


http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z196/totem02/REK004.jpg

Parts list for Rondine Deluxe B-12H note parts list was oversize in length


http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z196/totem02/REK005.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z196/totem02/REK006.jpg

Great post, Totem! Thanks for getting those up.

and here's a great review!

Thanks to David - Spartanmanor - for being so kind to resize these and the previous posts pics. :)

Can't beat part #84 - Filler Block
A grease encased block of wood! Must be cedar... mine have held up more than a half-century in pristine shape.

This post comes a bit too late for me. I had a Rek-O-Kut T-12-H (the commercial grade version) with a Pickering 190 arm. Both were built to take incredible abuse. But I already have too many projects, so I sold the both in December.

ROK Warranty card, never filled in with model# but has serial#

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z196/totem02/ROKWarrrantycard.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z196/totem02/ROKWarrrantycard001.jpg

The Lenco site has a great ROK thread:

http://www.lenco-lovers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Justen thanks for the link.

I thought I would throw this out. It covers most of the models that were made through 1965 that I know of. Eventually I will have all the Allied catalogs scanned through 1965 or so.

See attachment for a discussion on the Rondine Deluxe, Rondine, Rondine Jrs.

:music:Very appropriate sticky and timely info as I am in beginning process of refurbishing my dad's L-34 Jr. he put together as a kit in 1958. What solvents/cleaners should I use to shine up the platter. Also, I've seen a very shiny ROK red rubber/vinyl mat on some tables. Still have mine and wondered what to use on it without messing up LP collection. Thanks for all advice.

I've got a ROK L-37 and a K-33H. I'll try to get some pics posted when I get a chance.

:music:Very appropriate sticky and timely info as I am in beginning process of refurbishing my dad's L-34 Jr. he put together as a kit in 1958. What solvents/cleaners should I use to shine up the platter. Also, I've seen a very shiny ROK red rubber/vinyl mat on some tables. Still have mine and wondered what to use on it without messing up LP collection. Thanks for all advice.

I've got the red vinyl mat on my B-12H awaiting restoration. Mine looks in really good shape but I think I'd try what some say for restoring the idler wheel rubber..some just soak in dish soap. If that didn't work, it would be easy to move to more aggressive restorers. Maybe someone else has tried something that worked well and wouldn't compromise records.

Dnewma, I'd love to see some pics.

Glad I found this post, now I know what to do with my B-12H(?)! It has very large custom made plinth built in Denver,Co.. The top of the plinth is isolated from the sides by foam which is of course dried out over time. I'm not 100 % sure it is a B-12H but it does have the H motor. I have been trying to decide whether to restore it for myself or to sell it for about a year now, not that it needs a lot of restoration. I think now it will be my table for my tube system. It has a GE tonearm on it now, Do I rewire for stereo or put a more modern arm on it, that is the question??????? Pics to come!

In very nice original condition and it was free! Arm is wired for stereo but head wiring will need to be modified for new style cartridge. I really think I'd want a more modern arm with antiskate to maximize performance and keep from wearing out my lp's...........

I really think I'd want a more modern arm with antiskate to maximize performance and keep from wearing out my lp's...........

You could always give the original arm a try, others have been impressed
on their results

Rondine Deluxe...that's the B-12H. :thmbsp: I would think about trying the original arm and then move on to something else if it didn't float my boat.

It has a GE arm on it wired for stereo. I listened to it today for the first time and it defiinately needs work. I knew it needed new interconnects and ground wire work. The thing that bothers me is degradation of sound towards the center of the lp. That usually means the vinyl is being degraded also. Lots of rumble in there too .....but , you can tell that is has potential. I am also thinking about modifying the arm to accept a more modern cartridge or maybe finding an older better quality arm. Any recomemdations????

Joe/Funkwrench has been so kind to provide copies of some catalogs that he purchased. Thanks for sharing! :)

First Attachment - This is a catalog with info on Fine Recording & Playback Equipment
B-12H, B-12, L-34, L-37, B-16H, G-2, Imperial, V Deluxe, TR-12H, Master-Pro, M-12S, M-12, various portables, bases, cabinets, tonearms

Second attachment - more info on B-12H, B-12, L-34

Third Attachment - TTs, Tonearms, bases and platforms

Fourth Attachment - For the Broadcaster & Recording Studios
- B-16H, Rhythmaster RT-43-VC, RT-43-VM, CVS-12, idler replacement chart, speed conversion data chart, mounting method, model/price list

Fifth Attachment - Rhythmaster, Recitalist, Challenger Deluxe, R-8A, P-43L, P-43M, P-43VC, P-43VM, V Deluxe, M-55, TR-12H, M-12, G-2, T-12H, T-43H, LP-743, CVS-12

Very nice, thanks for posting.

Hi there,

Here is my link so you may see my Thorens TD-150 extended with my RekO-Kut Link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/25048891@N03/2376589766/

Enjoy the pics.

Hi there,

Here is my link so you may see my Thorens TD-150 extended with my RekO-Kut Link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/25048891@N03/2376589766/

Enjoy the pics.

Nice table. :thmbsp:

Needs work but I think it has some potential.

The arm is a Calrad SV-16, the cart is a swappable 33/78 RPM model, can't think of the model off the top of my head.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w241/dnewma04/IMG_2313.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w241/dnewma04/IMG_2314.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w241/dnewma04/IMG_2315.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w241/dnewma04/IMG_2316.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w241/dnewma04/IMG_2317.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w241/dnewma04/IMG_2318.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w241/dnewma04/IMG_2319.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w241/dnewma04/IMG_2320.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w241/dnewma04/IMG_2321.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w241/dnewma04/IMG_2324.jpg

Nice table! Looks like it will be a fun project. Where did you find this one?

that A$$shole sneezes, and he finds like SME tonearms and stuff...

It was at an estate sale and I probably did overpay (paid full price the first day and generally things were high). But I like ROKs and needed a 78 player (this was just before finding a pair of TD-124s) or i may have not bought it.

It was at an estate sale and I probably did overpay (paid full price the first day and generally things were high). But I like ROKs and needed a 78 player (this was just before finding a pair of TD-124s) or i may have not bought it.

It's a good thing you found the ROK first then. Looks like a coot TT. It seems like ROKs are built like tanks and pretty underrated.

It was at an estate sale and I probably did overpay (paid full price the first day and generally things were high). But I like ROKs and needed a 78 player (this was just before finding a pair of TD-124s) or i may have not bought it.


Your kidding about the 124's. Now where is that thread?

Nice table. I dig that tonearm.

Your kidding about the 124's. Now where is that thread?


I think there is a thread with pics of the first recent TD-124 I found. It turned out to be a bit of a basketcase and certainly not worth what I paid either. Luckily, I ran across another which looks like it will be significantly nicer and it's not even missing a bunch of parts like the first one.

I think there is a thread with pics of the first recent TD-124 I found. It turned out to be a bit of a basketcase and certainly not worth what I paid either. Luckily, I ran across another which looks like it will be significantly nicer and it's not even missing a bunch of parts like the first one.


If you can get one good one out of the two I think you will really like the 124.

These old tables sure look Vintage, but I hope youre not playing your valuable records on them.

Those heavy, inflexible arms will just ruin your discs, pure and simple. Any tracking force over 3 grams is damaging to a record groove.

For years I had an old Garrard Type A that tracked at 3-6 grams. Today, on many of the records that i played on that monster, I can plainly hear the damage to the grooves. And this was with a cart and stylus designed for the extra weight , The Shure M7.

Enjoy the old tables, but only play your junk records on them!

I think that is an example of misleading vividness.

Mine tracks at 1.5 grams.

You have an old tonearm that tracks at 1.5? Which arm is that?

I put a Grado wood arm on my ROK which tracks at 1.5 grams. I can tell you it is a great table.

Here is what a vintage table with a vintage arm looks like:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69414&d=1196085954

You have an old tonearm that tracks at 1.5? Which arm is that?


It is a Pickering 190. The weight of the tonearm is complete supported by its base, the only weight on the cart is from the spring suspension. I could track it at .5 if I chose.


http://audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1625267&postcount=12

Looking at that arm , I kind of doubt that arm was EVER designed to be tracked at 1.5 grams.

Sure, you could "make it" track at whatever you wanted, but if it was designed for heavy tracking force, then you will screw up the compliance of the arm. Doing that will damage your records even more than tracking at higher than the recommended force.

What does the manufacturer say is the recommended tracking force for that arm? Cant be 1.5.....

Actually the Grado is a very light arm and can track easliy down to .5 grams. I removed the original ROK arm which did require heavy tracking.

I would really like to try and keep this thread pretty related to ROKs. It's great discussion to talk about the merits of various vintage TAs, and tracking forces but it might best be explored as a separate topic. Thanks.

Sorry about that. I guess I figured we were talking about arms that worked with ROK's.

Here are pictures of a Rek-O-Kut L34H project I did as requested by jcmrt.

I picked up the L34H at the De Anza swap meet in Mountain View, CA. It was $35 for the table, two arms, one pick-up, and the makeshift plinth. A relative bargain. The table itself was in excellent shape.

I rebuilt this table as a gift to a friend. The plinth is a standard birch ply heavy plinth. The top is 3/4" thick piece of zebrawood that I hand planed and joined together into the top board. The sides are 3/4" paduak.

For comparison purposes, I have a picture of the finished table next to my Shindo Garrard 301.

The last picture is the table in its new home.

I'm going to make one last mod to the table. The arm base is sitting a bit high and needs to be 2mm closer to the spindle. So I'm working on a 4" diameter wenge wood arm board.

Here are pictures of a Rek-O-Kut L34H project I did as requested by jcmrt.

I picked up the L34H at the De Anza swap meet in Mountain View, CA. It was $35 for the table, two arms, one pick-up, and the makeshift plinth. A relative bargain. The table itself was in excellent shape.

I rebuilt this table as a gift to a friend. The plinth is a standard birch ply heavy plinth. The top is 3/4" thick piece of zebrawood that I hand planed and joined together into the top board. The sides are 3/4" paduak.

For comparison purposes, I have a picture of the finished table next to my Shindo Garrard 301.

The last picture is the table in its new home.

I'm going to make one last mod to the table. The arm base is sitting a bit high and needs to be 2mm closer to the spindle. So I'm working on a 4" diameter wenge wood arm board.

Having never heard a real good idler drive TT,my curiosity is aroused.
Aside from the beautiful cabinetwork/choice of timber,how does the ROK compare to the Shindo/Garrard? :scratch2:
Price notwithstanding.

Not much a comparison. The idler tables are known for their dynamics, liveliness, and PRAT. That is true of the ROK. The ROK is a very good table and better than most of high-end tables out there. I like far more than my old Nottingham even with the EMT JSD5 cartidge.

However, the Shindo table is a complete system with a specific arm and cartridge. The Shindo has more weight, finesse, and refinement. It also has the Shindo characteristics-tone, dynamics, naturalness. I've heard the Shindo arm and cart on other tables and the Shindo table with other arms. All far short of the complete system.

One more thing.

The Garrard on the Shindo is heavily modified in the Shindo system. It has a totally new bearing assembly, spindle, platter and mat. Only the motor and idler assmebly is stock.

Rick, very nice work on that ROK

I love the contrast of the zebrawood top with the padauk sides. Is there any isolation between the top and sides? Very nice and thanks for the pics.

I take it that other than the plinth, the ROK was basically a clean and lube...re-rubber the idler may but no mods...or...?

BTW, the Shindo is a beautiful table too. I've heard 301s before but not the Shindo which is pretty legendary.

Rick C, welcome to AK--those are very nice looking TTs :yes:

Rick,
Thank you for your thoughtful replies to my question. :yes: :thmbsp:

I love the contrast of the zebrawood top with the padauk sides. Is there any isolation between the top and sides? Very nice and thanks for the pics.

I take it that other than the plinth, the ROK was basically a clean and lube...re-rubber the idler may but no mods...or...?

BTW, the Shindo is a beautiful table too. I've heard 301s before but not the Shindo which is pretty legendary.

The top and sides are glued to the birch ply core. The core was smooth on all sides and made true before gluing the sides.

The ROK table itself required very little work. It was in near mint state. I cleaned the mechanism and reworked some of the wiring. Other than that it needed little else. At one point, I was thinking of repainting the platter but decided against it. I did consider changing the bearing assembly and/or the platter but I'll save that for another project.

Thanks for sharing your beautiful woodwork photos! Great first 4 posts Rick!

Here are pictures of a Rek-O-Kut L34H project I did as requested by jcmrt.

I picked up the L34H at the De Anza swap meet in Mountain View, CA. It was $35 for the table, two arms, one pick-up, and the makeshift plinth. A relative bargain. The table itself was in excellent shape.

I rebuilt this table as a gift to a friend. The plinth is a standard birch ply heavy plinth. The top is 3/4" thick piece of zebrawood that I hand planed and joined together into the top board. The sides are 3/4" paduak.

For comparison purposes, I have a picture of the finished table next to my Shindo Garrard 301.

The last picture is the table in its new home.

I'm going to make one last mod to the table. The arm base is sitting a bit high and needs to be 2mm closer to the spindle. So I'm working on a 4" diameter wenge wood arm board.

Beautiful work!

Hello,
Does anyone know whether or not all the ROK tables use the same motor isolation grommets. I know that the B-12H and the K-33H do but I don't know about the others with different motors.
Thanks,
Jim

Does the K 33 H have a DC or AC motor?

Does the K 33 H have a DC or AC motor?

You might want to ask Dnewman as he has a K33H.

It seems that motor attitude (its three dimensional relationship to the idler wheel(s)) plays a vital part in speed constants on Rek-O-Kuts as well as other American grommet suspended cranks. You can see this for yourself by reaching under a spinning ROK and playing with the motor’s attitude and watch the pitch change on a strobe disc. Without human intervention, there are only three ways to affect this attitude. 1- The spindle height on the motor shaft: 2- Spacers on idler wheel shafts: 3- The condition of the grommet hang.
As you’ve probably guessed, the most variably conditional, and therefore the weakest link on maintaining attitude are the grommets or bushings. Supple or firm… prefabricated or stock, the condition of these rubber jobbies can be a make or break proposition – especially on multiple speed registrations.
One can make adjustments to the spindle or idler wheel height to accommodate bushing condition/motor attitude and more often than not get a speed to lock on. What I’ve experienced, with two ROKs and a Presto is that while the targeted speed is locked, once I change to 45 or 78, those speed are often off.
Short of a new set of bushings, it occurred to that an “on-the-fly”, fine speed pitch control can be added via a plastic threaded shaft and dowel that passes through the front of the plinth and actually changes the motor’s attitude by adjustment. (Think of a “C”-clamp with free wheeling nub attached to the motor face and you’ll see what I mean). I plan to use this on another “Big American Idler” later this summer – but since it’s also applicable to ROKs, I thought I’d put it out there for anybody to pick up on this building season.

All best,
Mario

The K33 has an AC motor.

The K33 has an AC motor.

Thanks

Hey all,

I recently picked up a turntable made by McCurdy model CH 12 that was used for broadcast purposes in the CBC local station up here in the Vancouver area. Does anybody know if McCurdy was the Canadian equivalent sister company of Rek-o-cut? It does have the same motor as one of the first pics in this thread and the table does look mighty similar to the cut's.

It also includes a rek-o-cut tonearm and headshell, (mono, but could be easily be converted and wired for stereo I'm sure) called the micropoise.

I will try and post some pics later when I have a chance if interested. It is a really nice looking table and built like a tank to take the abuse of being in the local national broadcasting radio station. I understand from the guy that I got it from is that it was used not as the main airplay table, but the secondary table used for mostly adding sound effects and other sound clips of the like. It is in amazing shape for what it is and he also had the little dohicky that the tonarm would rest on and lock down into place when not in use. The idler wheel is in really great shape and not cracked or dry at all.

I am not sure whether this is the place to ask for this info, considering it is a sticky, but I would put my money that McCurdy is the Canadian version of Rek-O-Cut and should be mentioned. If there is interest, I will follow up here, if not then I may create a new thread.

I happened to find a link to a pic of the same table I have here http://www.tamminen.ca/mccurdy/ , however tonearm is obviously different. Thoughts?

Cheers

Hi all: I looked through the entire thread and even downloaded some of the catalog PDF files. I did not see any of the newer turntables of the 60's in them.

Mine was an NL-33H (rectangular base instead of square) belt drive turntable with, to me, the infamous Rek-O-Thane belt. These belts stretched quite easily and regularly; and, I might have gotten two years out of them at the most.

Then, I forget when, Rek-O-Kut was sold to a larger outfit. Instantly the belts went from $3.15 to $7.85. A couple of years later another sale and now the damn belts are $15 plus :thumbsdn:. The Rek-O-Kut was moved to my museum of obsolete equipment (an unused closet) and that is where it sits today still gathering dust.

A pic when I can find my digital from a recent move (I can't find which box it's in). Next I tried a Thorens and for the next 3 decades I fought the problem of the idler wheels hardening and getting flat spots on them.

Now I have a lightweight Sony direct drive unit.

good thread, Harry

Well I had been thinking about adding a second tonearm to my ROK lately, when on a whim I stopped into a GW and found my new toy.

Yet another Pickering arm, along with a mono ROK arm. Power cable is frayed and basically everything needs to be rewired, but I think I got a decent deal, so I won't b*tch. I'm always hesitant to use the "s" word, but this is pretty damn close.

Nice find. One of the better ROKs, IIRC.

Nice thread. Anyone ever find a ROK under a different name brand? I snagged one a few years ago. A K33H branded as "Olson". Absolutely identical to my ROK K33H. That's a Stromberg Carlson unipivot arm mounted on the "Olson" table.

My most recent ROK is a B12H. Pictured as found, and with a light cleanup. Fairchild 281a transcription tonearm.

My most recent ROK is a B12H

There is just something about the B12H design that I love.
Great score Ohighway!

My most recent ROK is a B12H. Pictured as found, and with a light cleanup. Fairchild 281a transcription tonearm.


I love that arm!

inperson, Thanks. I kinda get a kick out of it too. It's HEAVY. Very cool design though. Built well too. Check Jim Long's page....
http://ourworld.cs.com/jjimlong/Fairchild280series.html

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm40/clydeselsor/PICT2507.jpg

awesome!

Those look like nice units might have to check em out!

Here is my just finished Rondine L-34..

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm40/clydeselsor/PICT2507.jpg

Is that a K-33H. Do you have design plans for that base? Is it hollow or is it solid? Picture of the bottom?

Is that a K-33H. Do you have design plans for that base? Is it hollow or is it solid? Picture of the bottom?

I just picked one of these up off Boston CL for $30. I'm currently looking at ideas for plinths since I don't need as much mass as on my L-34. Found a bet from Turntable Basics for $14 shipped.

Finished yesterday:

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e352/dmagalhaes/DSC_0077.jpg

The siblings:

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e352/dmagalhaes/DSC_0078.jpg

Awesome job!!! Just beautiful.

I'm glad you have the RB300 arm on there. Using the old metal arms, no matter what the tracking weight is set at, destroys records. The designers just didnt know what we know today.

dmag- could you say more about the tables, your methods of construction, etc, and also the other gear on the racks...and, oh, yeah, the speakers, are they BIB's? seriously nice stuff all the way around

Both table are Rek-O-Kuts, the one on the left is an idler drive and the right a belt drive. I was inspired by the JE Labs page on Rok's and the plinth construction was per his instructions. Lowe's sells the birch ply and they will cut it to size for you if you go there in the middle of the day when they are not busy. I had them cut the sheet to 8 peices 24" square and then I cut them to size on my table saw. I used a jigsaw to cut the openings and a drill for the tonearm holes. Lots of glue and clamped overnight to dry. The finish is just plain old Linseed Oil.
As for the gear, my main preamp and power amp are at Conrad Johnson for power supply failures within a week of each other, $$$, so the NAD amp and one Advent Pre are borrowed. The Advent preamp section is shamefully good, especially the phono section.
Yes those are Bib's with Fostex FE-166's. They sound MUCH better than you could imagine and I have received nothing but praise on their performance.

Just posted in the Dollars and Sense Forum on my good fortune. Picked up ROK Rodine Deluxe for $25.00. Came with two Fairchild tone arms, one a transcription piece. The unit appears to be in incredibly good condition.

I am now seeking the learned guidance of those of you who know these units. I see some of the incredible work that many of you have done in crafting a plinth. I can handle tools but I'm not at all comfortable trying to craft something that will be a suitable base for a unit of this quality. Is there a possible source for a suitable plinth?

Obviously the Farichilds are not appropriate for continued use; they are simply too massive. What would you folks recommend for a tonearm and a source to get it?

Is there someone in my area (southeastern Connecticut) who you would recommend to assemble all of these components correctly.

Lots of questions I know but this is one beautiful piece of gear and I wish to accord it the respect that it deserves.

Any and all input gratefully accepted. Thanks.

Just posted in the Dollars and Sense Forum on my good fortune. Picked up ROK Rodine Deluxe for $25.00. Came with two Fairchild tone arms, one a transcription piece. The unit appears to be in incredibly good condition.

I am now seeking the learned guidance of those of you who know these units. I see some of the incredible work that many of you have done in crafting a plinth. I can handle tools but I'm not at all comfortable trying to craft something that will be a suitable base for a unit of this quality. Is there a possible source for a suitable plinth?

Obviously the Farichilds are not appropriate for continued use; they are simply too massive. What would you folks recommend for a tonearm and a source to get it?

Is there someone in my area (southeastern Connecticut) who you would recommend to assemble all of these components correctly.

Lots of questions I know but this is one beautiful piece of gear and I wish to accord it the respect that it deserves.

Any and all input gratefully accepted. Thanks.

Beej, Send me an email at odie72@gmail.com. It's not hard to build a plinth. I can walk you through it.

Both table are Rek-O-Kuts, the one on the left is an idler drive and the right a belt drive.Could you comment on the sound of each? It looks like you're set up nicely to do a comparison of the two.

I have an L34 in the wings, awaiting it's turn in the project queue. I've had the idler wheels rebuilt and "just" need to get a plinth and find an arm for it. Meanwhile my main table is an Empire 208, which I believe has the same motor as the K-33H (no?).

Beej, Send me an email at odie72@gmail.com. It's not hard to build a plinth. I can walk you through it.

Thanks. Emailing this morning.

The Rodine Deluxe and Fairchilds. The smaller of the two is the transcription arm.

The Rodine Deluxe and Fairchilds. The smaller of the two is the transcription arm.

That's next for me Beej.. An BG-12H.

Guys
I have a few ROK tables, 3 Rondine with the big Ashland motor.
1 K33 that I changed to a Papst motor, a K33 running the standard motor and a B12H that is about as cool as they get.
Here is a link to a couple of my ROK projects.
bob

http://www.pbase.com/rjones5296/rekokut&page=all

Very nice work, there.

Guys
I have a few ROK tables, 3 Rondine with the big Ashland motor.
1 K33 that I changed to a Papst motor, a K33 running the standard motor and a B12H that is about as cool as they get.
Here is a link to a couple of my ROK projects.
bob

http://www.pbase.com/rjones5296/rekokut&page=all

Very nice work on those plinths in particular. Is that birch plywood by any chance?

beej
yes, birch from Lowes, with a white stain, I wanted to lighten it up.
I was going for a retro look.
I looked at baltic birch, but it was way more expensive, and I would have to get it from a specialty lumber supplier.
Baltic is nearly perfect but costs $$$.

Check this I did a base for a Fairchild table, different plywood, and left it natural.
This thing is a beast the table weighs about 50 pounds.

http://www.pbase.com/rjones5296/fairchild&page=all

bob

Bob

The Farichild is a beautiful piece. If I may, what is the tonearm? If it plays anything like it looks it must sound amazing.

Beej
The arm is a Rega RB300.
Of my turntables, the top dog is a Thorens TD124/SME 3009 it replaced a Linn.
I used the 124 with the Rega arm, but when I switched to the SME, game over.
The SME on the Thorens tore it up.
The Fairchild 412 is pretty much a match for the Thorens, maybe a little more neutral sounding than the Thorens.
Id like to get another SME just for the Fairchild, I think this table is a sleeper.


bob

Very nice work there Bob!

Totem
Thanks !
gonna start on another base pretty soon, I have another ROK K33 a friend gave me.
So I figure Ill get started on that sometime this winter.
bob

if i understand correctly the difference between the b-12 and the b-12h is the motor, the latter being more desirable. is that the pabst or the ashland in the "hysterisis" unit are they interchangeable? i'm looking to swap out the motor in my b-12 which literally takes 5 minutes to come up to speed, despite my numerous efforts to clean it.

I have an Empire that uses the same motor as the RoK K-33, and the motor in the Empire is a bit noisier - it seems to vibrate a little. Anyone have noisy motors in their tables, and what do you do about it? I was looking at how to take the motor apart, but so far I can only gain access to the lower bearing well. I don't know how to get the rotor off to get to the upper bearing.

Guys
I have a few ROK tables, 3 Rondine with the big Ashland motor.
1 K33 that I changed to a Papst motor, a K33 running the standard motor and a B12H that is about as cool as they get.
Here is a link to a couple of my ROK projects.
bob

http://www.pbase.com/rjones5296/rekokut&page=all

Extraordinary work, Bob. Very beautiful. Just one question: Have you been able to get that T12H to be quiet? I have a nearly identical T43H (shown in earlier posts in this thread) but the tire slap or bearing noise is just too heavy. My idlers were rebuilt but the thing is NOT quiet. What is your experience?

Thanks,

Joe

Extraordinary work, Bob. Very beautiful. Just one question: Have you been able to get that T12H to be quiet? I have a nearly identical T43H (shown in earlier posts in this thread) but the tire slap or bearing noise is just too heavy. My idlers were rebuilt but the thing is NOT quiet. What is your experience?

Thanks,

Joe

Joe
Good question, when I got my T12 it looked pretty rough, originally it was painted in a battleship crinkle gray.
On top of that I let it sit in my basement for 4 maybe 5 years, at the time I wasnt sure what to do with it.
Then the bug bit, I thought this thing might have some potential.
I actually took the table totally apart, cleaned and polished every moving part.
Especially the idler shafts and main bearing, the platter was pretty coroded, I had to wet sand that to get it to look decent, polish just would not cut the crud.
Luckily the idlers were still nice and soft, and no flat spots at all, and the inside drive rim was in fine shape.
The top plate was pretty rough so I actually blasted the old finnish off and repainted.
I did take my time cleaning the motor, then oiled and let it run in for an hour or two every day for I think about a month.
The motor mounts were still pretty good, no cracking, with any table that uses those mounts once the rubber starts to harden up, there is no fix but to replace.
Under all the corossion and crud, Im betting my B12 didnt have many hours at all, I didnt find any wear to the bearings or motor at all.
One thing about the B12h that helps is the top plate is a couple pounds of cast aluminum, nice and sturdy.
One thing I noticed that gave me hope was when I was running in the motor, sitting on the bench you could just hear it running, holding the motor in my hands it did vibrate.
Being mounted to a base that weighs in at about 30 pounds soaks up most of the vibration.

I guess the clean and polish helped quite a bit, change out the ball bearing in the platter bearing well, and clean the main bearing housing well.
Rek O Kut oil turned to varnish, everyone I have seen the main bearing was crudded up.
I have had 2 Rondines that the main bearing was siezed up with varnish, I had to leave them in the sun to get them warm enough to be able to wiggle the platter off.
Your platter should spin silently, Im wondering if your hearing a knocking or slapping sound if there might be some wear in the idler wheel bushings.
Can you adjust the stop points for the 2 speeds? so your not putting too much pressure on the idler wheels.

bob

Thanks for that, Bob. Yeah, I have done most of that stuff. The main bearing and shaft are in great shape and I have replaced the ball bearing with a silicon nitride ball. But based on your experinces, I agree that the slapping is probably caused by wear to the stud or bushing that the idler spins on. The 33 side is much more worn than the 45. I wish I could just swap disks from one side to the other but the 33 disk will not clear the deck unless I cut away some metal. But I wonder about the possibilities of having the stud and the bearing sleeve replaced or re-polished. I am not sure if it is even possible for me to remove the vertical stud without a puller or some kind of exotic tool. Did you dis-assemble these parts when you tore yours down?

Yes, I have adjusted the heck out of the little set-screws without any reduction in noise. From heavy presure to feather light - just barely turning the table - it made little difference. Strangely, I was able to knock out a substantial portion of the noise by removing the 45 disk completely and keeping tension on the other disk by rigging a cheap rubber-band. The band lasted a couple of weeks before it broke. But I think that best performance has to be achieved when you have both tires engaged to the main shaft.

You can see the deck here:

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg312/funkwrench/

I think if you were able to get yours to relative silence, I may be inspired to take mine a few steps further. I really dig the rugged build and no-frills design.

Thanks again.

Joe

Thanks for that, Bob. Yeah, I have done most of that stuff. The main bearing and shaft are in great shape and I have replaced the ball bearing with a silicon nitride ball. But based on your experinces, I agree that the slapping is probably caused by wear to the stud or bushing that the idler spins on. The 33 side is much more worn than the 45. I wish I could just swap disks from one side to the other but the 33 disk will not clear the deck unless I cut away some metal. But I wonder about the possibilities of having the stud and the bearing sleeve replaced or re-polished. I am not sure if it is even possible for me to remove the vertical stud without a puller or some kind of exotic tool. Did you dis-assemble these parts when you tore yours down?

Yes, I have adjusted the heck out of the little set-screws without any reduction in noise. From heavy presure to feather light - just barely turning the table - it made little difference. Strangely, I was able to knock out a substantial portion of the noise by removing the 45 disk completely and keeping tension on the other disk by rigging a cheap rubber-band. The band lasted a couple of weeks before it broke. But I think that best performance has to be achieved when you have both tires engaged to the main shaft.

You can see the deck here:

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg312/funkwrench/

I think if you were able to get yours to relative silence, I may be inspired to take mine a few steps further. I really dig the rugged build and no-frills design.

Thanks again.

Joe


Joe
No i didnt pull apart the idler arm.

One thing the idler arms should pivot freely.
I would make sure the motor is level, it seems to me I had to tweek that a little to make sure the motor shaft was vertical, to make even contact with the idlers.
Im checking my idlers, they are a very close fit on the shaft, I cant feel any play.
Looking at the shafts on my table, they dont show any wear.
Im wondering if the shaft wear is the problem, letting the idler rock.
The wear surprises me, the bronze bushing in the idler should wear alot faster than the steel shaft.
I'd think that a good machine shop could copy the shafts, the cost I have no idea.
On my table, only one of the idlers is in contact with the motor shaft and platter, at any one time depending on the speed.

Also on my table to be able to use a 45 rpm idler, I have to have a special length idler arm, each of the 3 arms, 33,45,78 are a different length.
I cant just swap the 33 or 78 idler for a 45 rpm idler.
I thought all these ROK's came 33&78, if you wanted to run 45 you had to get the idler arm and idler wheel set,

Man I have a n.o.s. 45 rpm idler and have been and am still looking for the idler arm to switch my 78 speed to 45.
bob

Well, I had no idea the arms were different lengths. But I am much more interested in driving 78s than 45s, so maybe we could work something out.

Everything in your photos indicates that we have identical decks. Except for the off-set angle (your contol knob is in the corner) I can see no real differences. But the spring that holds the two idler arms on mine causes both tires to spin at the same time. Clearly yours has only one tire engaged at a time.

Have never tried to level the motor. In fact my deck has never been removed from its R-O-K Challenger case. All work has been done from the top. I guess it is time to break in and see what's cooking in there.

In case you have not seen it, catalog info on our respective models can be found at the vinyl engine, here:

http://www.vinylengine.com/library/rek-o-kut/turntables-and-lathes.shtml

You need to register but it is free. In any case, I will try to attach it to this message.

Thanks.

Joe

Joe
I was thinking about your noise issue, I have a couple questions.
With the motor just on and the table not in gear hows the noise ?
Then how about each speed, does the noise stay the same ?
I doubt that the kind of oil you use would be a problem, for my ROK's I have had good luck with turbine oil, I get mine from ACE hardware, its called the Zoom Spout
oiler costs about 3 bucks.

bob

With the unit out of gear - no idlers touching the mai shaft - the motor is dead silent. I have worried about the hard plastic or bakelite shaft surface being out-of-true bur it seems pretty smooth.

Yeah, every experiment I have done points to the idlers. It all sounds like bad idler tire-slap. Except the idler surface is new. I have almost sent them off to a different tire-re-capper just to see what would happen. By Ed Crocket is a pretty solid guy with a good rep. He rebuilt B12H wheel that he did for me was perfect.

The fact that my idler arms are worn and yours are not makes me want to go down that road for a while.

j

Thanks all for posting great information about these TT's. The question that gets left in my mind is "how do they compare to a comparitively equiped garrard 301/401"? Are these a via alternative for those of us the get sticker shock looking at the Garrard prices?

Thanks
Steve

They are probably a step behind an equally equipped TD-124/301/401. Probably better compared to an Empire 398, Fairchild 412, QRK, or Lenco. Not taking anything away from any of the other brands or ROK. A decked out version of any of these are still excellent.

Thanks all for posting great information about these TT's. The question that gets left in my mind is "how do they compare to a comparitively equiped garrard 301/401"? Are these a via alternative for those of us the get sticker shock looking at the Garrard prices?

Thanks
Steve

But I do not know the answer. I will never be able to buy a 124 or a 301 or 401 and I have never had the pleasure of hearing one. So, I try to read and learn as much as I can and I experiment - slowly - with these Rek-o-kuts.

Some have made the point that the top of the line idler Rek-o-kuts were more expensive than the 124 or the 301 back in the day. This is true. I have the catalogs. But there was also substantial European currency advantage back in the late fifties and early sixties. Some high-end manufactured items from europe were simply less expensive. I suspect that the 124 and the 301 are mechanically better tables in some respects. But the Rek may have a superior main bearing. Maybe a superior motor. Some very smart people have taken the R-O-Ks, the Lencos, the Neats, etc... and have built giant-killer tables. But you know this.

Not everyone derives satisfaction from the journey. If you do, then I say go for it! Otherwise, pony up the correct change and buy one of the blue-chip tables. A pretty safe investment, based on the price trends. Almost as safe as real estate.

Good luck, Steve.

joe

They are probably a step behind an equally equipped TD-124/301/401. Probably better compared to an Empire 398, Fairchild 412, QRK, or Lenco. Not taking anything away from any of the other brands or ROK. A decked out version of any of these are still excellent.

Guys just my opinion,
I have never owned a Garrard 301 or 401, Empire,QRK or Lenco.
But I do have 2 Thorens TD124, a Fairchild 412-1, Fairchild 412-2, Rek O Kuts Rondine B12H with Ashland motor, 2 K33 one with the Papst and one with the standard motor, another ROK T12h

As far as the Rondine B12h running an Ashland motor, standard factory base in perfect running condition, is a very nice table, smooth and quiet, excellent PRAT, really a good all round table. It's no match for a TD124 though.

The K33 tables remind me of a REGA, once you get the belt tension setup, and in a heavy base, I think they out perform the REGA, clean clear nice solid low end, very good PRAT. I thought a little lean sounding.
Im not saying thin or weak, just a little less weight.

I thought the ROK T12H in a heavy base 30 lbs for mine has the most kick ass PRAT of them all really solid, dosent have the finess of my TD124 but is fun as hell to listen to. And enough torque to use it as a potters wheel.

The TD124 + SME 3009 early series, metal knife bearing. clean,clear, super quiet, has the PRAT, really the top dog no doubt about it.
I was running a REGA arm, but after switching to the SME within 2 seconds after the needle hit the groove there was no doubt in my mind the SME tore it up. stage and dynamics second to none, I thought it was an easy match for a Linn LP12/Ittok.
On 80 year old wood floors the Thorens does the job, no foot fall B.S. I have had with every 3 springer I have owned.

Fairchild 412-1 with the densite filled platter, is the closest to a TD124 I have heard.
I think this table belongs in the Garrard 301,401,Thorens TD 124 family,
Maybe not quite as well built, more industrial actually but close.
Compared to my TD124, it's close sound wise, the only thing I would like to try is a SME arm on his guy, I run my 412 with a REGA arm, I didnt like the combo on the TD124.
I have rebuilt my 412's, new motor mounts, they are always shot, clean and lube job. The Fairchild uses 2 drive belts, upper and lower.
Mine is mounted in a base that weighs in at about 35 lbs, dont bother with the factory base, it looks nice but I found that even though this guy is a very smooth runner, it came to life in the heavy base.

Id rank them
ROK B12h Rondine pretty darn good, you cant go wrong with one in good condition and a decent arm, nice table over all, I love mine.
ROK K33 belt drives in a nice heavy base, it's a hard call here not better than the Rondine B12H just different.
The ROK T12H, a little harder to tame the motor vibration (Eastern Air hysteresis synchronous motor) but this thing has the PRAT that is hard to beat.
Fairchild 412..... a sleeper
TD124 the top dog, has every feature of a modern table strobe,speed controll,easy to level, removable arm board and killer sound, it's like this tables design was way ahead of its time.


bob

Well you have convinced me to be more agressive about curing what ails my t43H (T12). I'll have at those idler arms this weekend and see if I can find a source for machining the studs or whatever they are.

BTW, there is one for sale on ebay right now. $600. Not mine. Won't sell at that price IMO. But the seller says he has been using it as a record cutting lathe - not as a potter's wheel but what's the dif? - and it sounds like the real deal. He had it up for sale before and talked about using surplus CDs as record cutting blanks. Who could make that up?

My k33 (w pabst motor and faking cap) test mule, under construction, attached. Cell phone photos. Sorry

out.

Hello
On your K33, if your building a base, I built a solid base, I used a 4" hole saw to cut holes for the motor and a 1.75" hole saw for the main bearing.
The top layer I cut a 4" for the motor, a 1.75" for the bearing and a 4x3 for the arm board.
I think the center to center (motor center to main bearing center is 7 1/2 inches)
Then with each layer of plywood, I cut a 4" for the motor, a 1.75 for the bearing and another 1.75 for the arm clearance.

In the final 2 layers I eliminated the bearing hole, ( totally encloses the bearing well.)
And made 3x4 cutouts so I could mount the motor start cap,terminal block and wiring up inside the base.

What I was trying to accomplish was keep the mass as high as possible.

So if you look down on my base from the top you see a 4" hole for the motor to fit into, a 1.75" hole for the bearing, a 4x3 arm board hole centered on a 1.75 for the arm wiring and stub to fit down into.
bob

Thorens turntable with tonearm.:music:

Mine hangs on the wall. Dad built it late 50's I think.

I should hang mine up, too, I suppose. Not sure where any of this leads.

But my first tests, yesterday, of my K-33H are very positive. Again, I am sorry for cellphone photos but my real camera seems to sleep in my office, not in my home. Briefly, this is a 60s Rek-O-Kut belt-drive table with the hysterisis Pabst motor. The platter is pretty massive, with a big swingin' polished main bearing. I replaced the ball with a modern ceramic of slightly smaller diameter. New belt. In short, the table is very quiet and the speed seems spot-on, though I have not yet tested the speed with the strobe. I built this to test a smaller-footprint, two-tonearm arrangement. I listen to lots of old mono and, for me, this sounds best with a 16" R-O-K arm with GE cartridge. Modern records are played with the 12" Audio Technica ATE12, which allows for quick cartridge swaps.

Power supply is now outboard, with a new 4uF faking cap. I inadvertently mixed up 2 of the three wires and the thing ran backward at first. Because I used a tiny on-off switch from ratshack, I could not easily squeeze a cap onto the switch. So I left it out. BIG mistake. When I switch the thing off, my Cornwalls practically explode.

The Lowe's laminated pine circular "skeleton" plinth sits on 3 brass points. Today, this sits on a large square of 50s style oak & hardwood laminated flooring from an archetectural salvage depot. The flooring square sits on 4 sorbothane feet on the top of a cedar blanket chest. This is strictly an ad hoc arrangement which will probobly change tomorrow. Or next christmas.

So, next move is to try a high-mass plinth with a little more careful attention to the sub-base. I like to use recycled materials and I tend to avoid the beaten path, so, deciding what to use next may take a year or two of thinking and searching.

The pine was fauxed in an old mahogany finish by Baltimore artist, Nikki Smith. Perhaps I can post a photo that will do it justice.

Joe

Very cool ROK, there. Nice Job! The K-33H, being one of the least expensive models seems to be a favorite for modding. I know I have mine set aside for future project use.

Very cool ROK, there. Nice Job! The K-33H, being one of the least expensive models seems to be a favorite for modding. I know I have mine set aside for future project use.

Hey, man, fire that baby up! You might be very surprised! A new belt, a new ball-bearing, some synthetic motor oil... 20 bucks and you got a killer table.

Trying to decide if I like the bare-bones K33H or the B12H better. Like Bob, mrIgotnomoney, the B12H just seems more alive. More fun. But the K33H is dead silent and very musical.

Joe

Briefly, this is a 60s Rek-O-Kut belt-drive table with the hysterisis Pabst motor.

I see I'm not the only one to run my turntable in the fireplace.

I see I'm not the only one to run my turntable in the fireplace.

Yes, the mids are more liquid in the fireplace. Also, it is the only place that isn't cluttered with other junk.

Yes, the mids are more liquid in the fireplace. Also, it is the only place that isn't cluttered with other junk.

Mine is located there because it's the only place in the family room that doesn't suffer the effects of a bouncy floor....

Interesting setup with your ROK. I've got a K33H mounted on a home built plywood box...... looks absolutely dull in comparison to yours.

Yes, my floors are terrible, too. I had hoped that by locating to the front of the fireplace it might cyt down on some of the bounce but no. A Wall shelf seems like the only answer. The old AR suspended table did pretty well in this environment.

I have another, rarely seen, ROK: a cheaply made bugger called an R34. It has a stamped steel deck, suspended chassis, comparatively tiny main bearing, pabst H motor, and belt drive. For some reason, this bearing allows for the platter to spin all day when you push it with your hand. Whatever. I am looking to break it all down and put the motor, arms, and platter on separate pods. We'll see how that goes.

Thanks for the comments.

Joe

Hi Joe,

I was wondering if your ROK R34 is similar to my (recently purchased) Belt drive ROK K34H ? No doubt my table is a "entry level" ROK, however, the Table appears to be in VERY good condition and I like the fact that it is pretty simple in design. I plan to add a vintage Tonearm and have a new Plinth built. I plan to set up this ROK a "dedicated" MONO Table.
Ooh, my K34H has the following motor :

Superior Hysteresis Motor
Model UC-503-1

HSM 14.50-4-675D
60H2 115V 4MF 50-60 cyl. .2 Amps
Made in West Germany

I don't know if this is considered a decent motor or not.

Regards,
SixCats! aka Tom

Hey Tom,
I do not know the K34H turntable. K stands for KIT, it is the DIY version of ROKs line. It requires you to find a suitable base, etc... 34 stands for 2 speeds, 33 and 45. H stands for hysteresis motor.

Can you post a photo of your K34H? I would really like to have a look!

The thing that distinguishes my cheap R34 is that it has a very small diameter main bearing. ROKs are famous for their big swingin' spindle bearings but this one has a puny little one, about 1/4 inch in diameter.

Let's see that K34H!

Joe

so, here is a photo stolen from an old ebay auction of an n34h. I assume your deck is the kit version of this.

Hi Joe,

Yep! That's a pretty close example of what my K34H look likes although mine is a little bit different (and the parts are in MUCH nicer condition than the one pictured). Joe, I will do my best to get some pixs to you soon. Also Joe, can you please explain the location of the MAIN BEARING ? I'm not sure what you mean as I am not a technical person. The K34H Turntable's Platter and it's attached (for lack of a better word) "STEM" is pretty darn Beefy on the K34H. Is this what you mean by Main Bearing ? Talk to you soon Joe.

Regards,
Tom aka SixCats!

Yes, the stem would be a good word for the main bearing. Here are a couple of photos. The smaller stem is the main bearing of the R34. The photo of the two platters shows the bearing stems of a B12H and a B12GH. They should look very much like your N34H bearing.

What does your motor look like?

Joe

Hi Joe,

Oooh, thank you Joe for posting those pixs and answering my question. No doubt about it, the "stem/bearing" on my ROK K34H is indeed the big BEEFY Stem (thank God) as pictured on the B12H & B12GH pixs. The Motor on my K34H is a SQUARE looking West German made unit. When powered, one can see the entire motor spinning as it is not in a housing like the big ROK motors. The motor appears to be very quiet. I have read that the motor in my ROK does NOT need to be oiled. Thanks again Joe.

Regards,
Tom aka SixCats!

Your motor is the famous Pabst motor. It works off of the frequency of the voltage out of the wall, through a "faking cap," the big capacitor found under the deck. The 4uF cap is fairly easy to replace, and replacing it usually results in mo' accurate speed, in my experience. I have found that these turntables usually run a little fast until you replace that cap. But I do not know why that is.

Hi Joe,

Oooh, thank you Sir for that excellent information regarding the Cap!
I'll have to look into replacing the Cap for sure. Last night, I put some new ZOOM oil covering the Bearing in the ROK. The Platter appears to spin nice, smooth and quite EXCEPT when switching from 33 to 45 which results in a weird "grinding" noise. Lucky for me I don't plan on spinning any 45's.
Still, I sure wish I could figure out what the heck is making that noise.
I spun (by hand) the platter (withOUT Belt) as fast as I could and the Platter was very quiet. I suspect the problem must be something to do with the Belt which DOES have a weird (for lack of a better word) Hiccup/Jump in the same spot. Something is not right with this Belt. Joe, got a good source for the Cap and Belt ? Ummmm, perhaps I should also buy a new Ball Bearing while I'm at it eh ? Ooh, I suppose I should replace the rubber Gorments.
Thanks Joe.

Regards,
SixCats!

I have no experience with the rubber grommets but there is a distributor of the original LORD Co grommets here in Baltimore. I have been intending to visit them or at least secure a catalog. Based on my research, it looks like the grommets are a standard size. That means that better quality grommets might be used, such as silicon grommets. There is a guy selling some on ebay but I think the price is a little high. Just sayin.

Your grinding noise is likely caused by the belt dragging on the shifting mechanism. You should be able to fiddle with the lever to quiet it. If not, there are two adjustment screws on the deck near the motor. Go to vinyl engine, register and download the directions for adjustment of any of the belt drive R-O-K 34 decks.

Buy a belt, ten bucks, at turntablebasics dot com. Lots of other places, too, I am sure.

I used a heating and AC motor run cap to replace mine. I think it cost 4 bucks. You can probably use a high voltage rated plastic cap, too but I wouldn't worry about it. Sounds like you need a new belt most. Try getting that and move from there. _ Joe

I recently had to pass up (I think it was) a N33H on a homebrew plinth with an odd trick period pointy arm-&-cart set-up at a local thrift for $5. Needs loads of TLC but has a gorgeous massive spindle bearing, just no room at the inn here for it.
Anybody near 36265 PM me and I'll put you onto it if it's still there.
S.B.

progress on the K33H i started a couple of days ago. Hope to have it functioning by the fest.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w241/dnewma04/IMAGE_043.jpg

Whoa, that's sweet! Post lots more pics, please. :yes:

Thanks! I'll try to get my camera to work and get pics

I've got some more work done on this. The bearing is installed, all of the laminates are glued together, the armboard is complete. Working on the motor pod which is coming along outside of the fact that i need to install a motor run cap somewhere in a pod that I wasn't thinking about installing a cap in when I started.

I don't think i'll be applying any kind of finish for the fest, bare MDF DIY theme. :)

Posted them in their own thread in the DIY forum.

Here's an oddball I got a few years ago. It's an Olson turntable... which is actually a Rek o kut K33H. It's on a home built, formica covered plinth, and has a Stromberg Carlson oil dampened unipivot tonearm. It was just too cool and unique to pass up :thmbsp:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=270&pictureid=1830

I recently had to pass up (I think it was) a N33H on a homebrew plinth with an odd trick period pointy arm-&-cart set-up at a local thrift for $5. Needs loads of TLC but has a gorgeous massive spindle bearing, just no room at the inn here for it.
Anybody near 36265 PM me and I'll put you onto it if it's still there.
S.B.

NLA
Item has been purchased and passed to an interested and capable new owner.

Here is my new Rondine Deluxe with the B12H motor. The tonearm is sitting on top to see how it will look. I need some plinth ideas now.

Hi Fellas

its good to see a few ROK owners around
a newbee here, Ive got a ROK N34H in a homemade plinth...Grace arm and Goldring cartridge, its currently got pride of place, my LP12 is sitting n a cupboard.

cheers

Very pretty.

thank you ! it sounds good but after reading a number of posts I reckon its got a way to go to reach its potential...I need to fill the void in the plinth, sand bags ?...its a hollow frame, solid timber but still a frame "heavy as buggery "as we say ..

I've been meaning to ask in this thread. It seems that my L-37 motor is quite loud, is this normal or the sign of a deeper issue? My K-33H motor is very quiet, so i was a little surprised to hear the level of near "grinding" sounds coming from the L37.

I've been meaning to ask in this thread. It seems that my L-37 motor is quite loud, is this normal or the sign of a deeper issue? My K-33H motor is very quiet, so i was a little surprised to hear the level of near "grinding" sounds coming from the L37.

Does the motor make a lot of noise when you run it without driving the platter? If you take the platter off and start the motor, I think you can move the idler wheel off of the stem - capstan thing so that you can get a sense for the noise contributed exclusively bu the motor. Usually the rubber idler wheel simply need resurfacing. This can be done by many folks for 25 to 50 bucks.

I looked for your posts and photos on the DIY section but could not find them.

Good luck,

Joe

Has anyone fooled with the pabst or the other synchronous motor arrangement of the H model ROKs? I have swapped out the faking cap but I am sure there is a much better and more refined method of controlling the speed of these things. I have done a fair amount of reading on various DIY forums. Also, I like the Altman DIY approach of recording two sine waves, 90 degrees out of phase and playing them through a stereo amp to drive his stepper-motor TT. But in any case, spending 300 bucks for the origin live kit does not appeal to me. I am looking for a very cheap DIY solution. Anyone?

Thanks,

Joe

diyhifi supply have a cheapr dc solution, i was happy with it when i had the bix turntable.

The altmann system seems to work well, i used an ipod witha 60hz sine, a t-amp from parts express and a stepper motor from ebay. Vibration was as low as a standard syncronous motor and to have variable speed is always a plus.

If you have an ipod, all you need is about $45 worth of motor and amplifier, give it a go.

edd

Thanks for that advice about DIY Hi-fi. I had not seen their solution before.

As for the altman IPod thing, I really need to knuckle down and experiment with that. It seems so simple, so perfect. I am anxious to see how it powers the old pabst motors. Concerned mostly if whatever amp I use will have the juice to drive that sucker.

Joe

if the old pabst motor is 120v, you can use transformers with smaller amplifiers.

http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~quiddity/audio/Quadrature.html

mark kellys website has a bit about it.

Thats assuming the pabst motor is a 2 phase motor, not 3 or something else.

edd

Yup the Pabst fits his description:

The speed of an AC synchronous motor is by definition set by the frequency of its AC supply, so a variable speed drive is a variable frequency source stepped up to the required power level. This will also work for any single phase induction motor. The standard AC single phase synchronous motor actually requires two phases in a sine / cosine relationship (called quadrature because the two phases are separated by one quarter of a cycle) for it to operate reliably in one direction. In many applications the cosine drive is faked with a capacitor so all that is required is a single phase oscillator / drive of the correct frequency range.

I think I found my way to Kelly's site by way of somebody else who was trying to upgrade the identical pabst motor in his Empire.

Joe

I am seeking any advise, tips or secrets for rebuilding the B12H motor. Mine came out off a dirty/oily Rondine Deluxe and I want to clean it up and lube it before putting it back to use. Has anyone had theirs completely apart?

BHamm

Hi Rek O Kut masters! I just got my first Rondine Jr. in the mail and apparently there was a small wooden/composite "spindle" coming out of the end of the motor shaft. Unfortunately it snapped off in the post. Is this spindle available any place on the web or at some store? I really love this little turntable and I do not want to send it back.
Thanks
Tony

VERY bad luck. Luckily the junior - either L-34 or L-37 - is easy to find and cheap. But no, there is no source for these things except to turn one yourself. You might ask over at the vinyl asylum where there seem to be lots of folks who do that kind of work themselves.

good luck.

Hi All!!

I'm new on the site, found this amazing thread through the magic of googleverse.

I'm a bit of an audiophile, and recently I've been itching to go back to the old rich sound, and I wanted to do it properly...been doing a little bit of research, and found that this is exactly what I need to start off on the right foot..maybe you guys can help me on where I could find one...I appreciate the help..here are some pics..

Rek-O-Kut NL-33H Top
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2423/3642901879_8f6ffc3d53_o.jpg


Rek-O-Kut NL-33H Side
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2467/3643709304_b9e3e3fced_o.jpg

This may or may not be the right place to post this but what the heck.

I am looking for cartridge rec's for my B-12H with a 16" Rek-O-Kut transcription tonearm. New or vintage - what sounds best on this rig!

When I bought this it was equiped with a Stanton 380 which just does not do it for me.

My listening ranges from Classic to Jazz to Blues to Rock.

thanks all

Here is my baby:

The arm pillar looks like it's too low, misaligning the cartridge. The arm must be parallel with the record's surface when playing. There should be a pillar set-screw(either slot or hex) in the hole visible in the side of the pillar. Loosen it and raise the arm gimbal until the arm is level with the record when playing and then retighten the screw without overtorquing it. The cartridge could probably use a replacement stylus as well unless you wish to replace it. Doing that properly is another topic as is checking and establishing proper geometry for the offset/overhang.


Hi All!!

I'm new on the site, found this amazing thread through the magic of googleverse.

I'm a bit of an audiophile, and recently I've been itching to go back to the old rich sound, and I wanted to do it properly...been doing a little bit of research, and found that this is exactly what I need to start off on the right foot..maybe you guys can help me on where I could find one...I appreciate the help..here are some pics..

Rek-O-Kut NL-33H Top
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2423/3642901879_8f6ffc3d53_o.jpg


Rek-O-Kut NL-33H Side
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2467/3643709304_b9e3e3fced_o.jpg

Nice.

I assume this is a stereo arm? If so, I would buy first a SHURE SC35C. It is a low compliance cartridge perfect for a high-mass arm like the 16" ROK. I find that the best part about the SHURE is its ability to extract joy from old, beatup discs. It tracks at a high weight - 3 grams or more, I think, but it has a big rock on the end which reduces the actual tracking force per sq inch, if that makes any sense.

Get a second headshell - they can be found on ebay for about 35 bucks from time to time, just be patient. With the second shell, you can upgrade to the Denon DL103 or other mid to lo compliance cartridge. This will allow you to play new vinyl or records that have been very well kept. You'll need a stepup device for the denon, so it might not be your cup of meat.

Seriously, the SHURE costs about 40 bucks and is a bargain. You may miss a little filigree and nuance at first but the cartridge has a lot of slam to it. It has grown to be one of my favorites. It has brought life back to many otherwise un-listenable records.

How is the rumble or general noise level on your B12H?

Good luck,

Joe

funk - thanks for the advice. I have been toying with the idea of using my Shure V-VST on the REK and replacing the VST with a AT150MLX (on my Dual CS5000).

But I like your idea on the SC35C - so I may give it a shot first.

The noise level is pretty good actually - I'd say quiet at about 5 feet. There is a small flat spot on the idler which is acceptable at 33 - but horrible at 45 or 78 speeds - so I will need to have it rebuilt.

Guys that B12H running the Ashland motor, lubed, with good soft idler should be silent.
My table you cant hear it running standing right next to it @ 33.3
With my ear next to it I can just hear the motor whirr.
Thats running the stock ROK wood base.
On my B12H I have polished the platter shaft to mirror finish, the Ashland motor was in great shape so just a good cleaning and oiling, I use zoom spout turbine oil or gun oil. New steel ball bearing for the thrust.
Same for the idler wheel, except for a tiny bit of phono lube at the base of the idler, where it rides.
Also for the idler I used teflon washers for the thrust, top and bottom.
For the main bearing, mine has almost no play free so I use the same turbine or gun oil.
For all the speed change mechanics, I use phono lube, much nicer speed change action after cleaning out the way old and dry (gunk) grease.
Oh make sure you tweek the idler tire pressure, I go with just enough pressure to drive the platter with good torque.
After a thorough clean and lube it is dead quiet, and very smooth.

bob

Thanks for that info. My B12H is VERY quiet when listening for external noise. You really have to get down next to the platter to hear any of the mechanics. Where I get noise is in playback through the speakers. A soft mechanical hum you can hear on the dead tracks at the lead-in and the spaces between tracks on the record. I can remove the rumble when I disengage the motor. Yes, my idler wheel was re-built. It has always been my sense from the chat-group community that a massive plinth would be needed to sink the soft rumble I am hearing. The noise I hear through my speakers is like listening to a well-tuned Cadillac, vintage 1964, idling in the driveway. Sometimes you can't hear it, sometimes it is annoying.

Thanks for the info - can you tell me where you got the teflon washers for the idler wheel? I will want to upgrade in this area for sure.

Everything looks very clean in my table and there is virtually no play at all - I am still using the original ball bearing in the shaft - lube with "silent run" lubricating oil.

Virtually all the noise I hear is coming from the idler wheel area. Motor and Platter seem dead quiet.

Thanks for the info - can you tell me where you got the teflon washers for the idler wheel? I will want to upgrade in this area for sure.

Everything looks very clean in my table and there is virtually no play at all - I am still using the original ball bearing in the shaft - lube with "silent run" lubricating oil.

Virtually all the noise I hear is coming from the idler wheel area. Motor and Platter seem dead quiet.

Hello
I actually made my washers from teflon sheet (available on our favorite auction site) and using hole punches punched out the center and outer.
bob

Hi All, I guess I am a ROK guy now. I will be getting a N33H with Audax tonearm in the very near future. I am kind of geeked as I have been looking for one of these or similar for a year or so now. I'll post pics soon.

A new plinth is a minimum level of improvement you'll want to make. The Audax is a neat arm but probably not going to make the cut as anything more than a dedicated mono arm for playing 78s.

Did you ever get all that plastic from craigslist?

I called that lady just after I talked to you and she was soooo pissed because the phone had been ring off the hook from the time she posted it. I was number 11 in line. Thanks for thinking of me though.

What would be a good arm for that TT???

Rega RB-250, Sumiki FT3/MMT/FT4, any number of 200-250 arms. Someone was selling a Linn arm of some sort for cheap in barter town.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=225496&highlight=linn+tonearm

Here is a pic of my newtome ROK It will take a bit of work but I have a really nice piece of 2" smokey maroon marble flecked with gold and silver that I can carve into a new plinth. Is there someone out there that sells replacement parts and such???

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a60/djnagle/NewImage.jpg

Rega RB-250, Sumiki FT3/MMT/FT4, any number of 200-250 arms. Someone was selling a Linn arm of some sort for cheap in barter town.

What do you think of the Linn Basik Dave? Is it a keeper or something I can use while I'm waiting for a "real" arm?

The Basic (original or Plus) is a decent tonearm.

That is similar to the condition of my K-33H that I picked up and modded. I think you'll be impressed by the quality of the parts.

Guys
I posted on the turntable forum, so I hope this isn't considered a double post.
I found felt platter matt's made by ION model number Ion ISM02 DJ Slipmat.
They are 2-3 mm thick black felt, they do have a graphic printed on one side but the other side is blank. measure 12" across.
They are a prefect for the Rondine and look killer. I think very similar to a Linn matt.
I bought a package of 2 for $18, real nice quality and they don't break the bank.
Jump on the google and you can find them easily.
So for you guys that like a felt mat (me included) you cant find a better matt at a better price.

bob

Guys
Tonearms for the Rondine B12h any recommendations ? I have another stock Rondine and have been looking at arms that mount with about the same spindle to arm center as the original ROK arm 8 1/4 inches. I have a Rega 300 that I wanted to use, but I dont want to modify the table base or as little as possible.
I was looking at the Jelco arms. Any ideas, Im planning a base for this guy to add weight, and getting the idler tire rebuilt.
I already have a 99/100 mint Rondine in the original base with ROK arm.
But the new one will be a project table, looks great runs great just needs an arm and base.
bob

I just brought home the ROK K33H pictured above. To my surprise it does not have the big fat beefy motor the rim drives have. What is the opinion of the smaller motor of the K33H? It sure does spin nice.

Also, where can I get a new belt?

Your motor is the famous Pabst motor. It works off of the frequency of the voltage out of the wall, through a "faking cap," the big capacitor found under the deck. The 4uF cap is fairly easy to replace, and replacing it usually results in mo' accurate speed, in my experience. I have found that these turntables usually run a little fast until you replace that cap. But I do not know why that is.

I have that motor and was thinking that if the speed is tied to the voltage that if I had 116 volts or 123 volts at my house, the speed would be off. Is that right?

Its tied to the frequency, ie 60hz, rather than the voltage, as any ac synchronous motor is.

edd

Thanks Edd. That is now one less thing I have to think about.

Guys
Tonearms for the Rondine B12h any recommendations ? I have another stock Rondine and have been looking at arms that mount with about the same spindle to arm center as the original ROK arm 8 1/4 inches. I have a Rega 300 that I wanted to use, but I dont want to modify the table base or as little as possible.
I was looking at the Jelco arms. Any ideas, Im planning a base for this guy to add weight, and getting the idler tire rebuilt.
I already have a 99/100 mint Rondine in the original base with ROK arm.
But the new one will be a project table, looks great runs great just needs an arm and base.
bob

I got a broken Infinity Black Widow for my project K33H. There are a number of companies that make carbon fiber tubing that I will use for the repair.

I have that motor and was thinking that if the speed is tied to the voltage that if I had 116 volts or 123 volts at my house, the speed would be off. Is that right?


No. Surprisingly, the voltage variation does not affect the speed very much. The main component in the hysteresis motor's speed is the frequency of the power coming out of the wall. The motor synchs to the 60 cycles per second, not to the voltage. There is some practical limit to this, I suppose. If there were only 10 volts coming out of the wall there might be all sorts of excess current stress but I am an uninformed speculator about this. Short story, in theory, the wall voltage can vary from 100 to 130 volts and there won't be much speed deviation if the frequency of the power stays at 60 cps.

Joe

Hi Joe, that is good to know. I like the motor because of the spinning mass it adds to the mix. The shaft is fairly corroded and I only hope I can remove the corrosion without deforming the shape of the shaft but I will start with 800 grit wet/dry and let the motor spin while I apply pressure.

I have that motor and was thinking that if the speed is tied to the voltage that if I had 116 volts or 123 volts at my house, the speed would be off. Is that right?

It's not right, it's dependent on the frequency, not the voltage.

Hi Joe, that is good to know. I like the motor because of the spinning mass it adds to the mix. The shaft is fairly corroded and I only hope I can remove the corrosion without deforming the shape of the shaft but I will start with 800 grit wet/dry and let the motor spin while I apply pressure.

Not quite getting this method of removing the corrosion. Can you post a picture? I assume that the shaft is inside the well? If so, how can you polish it with the 800 grit paper? I thought that the only way to polishh the bearing shaft was to have a machine shop turn it on a lathe or on a drill press rig.

he is turning on the motor and letting it spin in his hand while applying the paper with the other hand, I suspect.

Yep Dave, that is correct. This motor's shaft acts as the pulley as well so the part that is corroded is where the belt rides on the shaft. I think sticking with 800 grit or higher will allow me to take off the corrosion without reducing the diamiter of the shaft.

Yep Dave, that is correct. This motor's shaft acts as the pulley as well so the part that is corroded is where the belt rides on the shaft. I think sticking with 800 grit or higher will allow me to take off the corrosion without reducing the diamiter of the shaft.

Ok, Now I get it - you mean the motor shaft. For some reason, I thought you were talking about the platter bearing. Sorry. I have used a very fine little file to do the same thing. It all works well.

Mine also had a bit of corrosion and i just scuffed it off with a little 600 paper. No issues.

On this platter, the center pin is all rust. Does that just screw out? I didn't want to try it without knowing for fear of gouging it.

I think it's a press fit piece.

Sorry for my ignorance, but could anyone help me out with what I have here and whether or not it is worth getting back in working condition? The motor works and the arm automatically cues. I have lots to learn... any comments would be helpful!

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/th_DSC00347.jpg (http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/?action=view&current=DSC00347.jpg) http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/th_rondine2007.jpg (http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/?action=view&current=rondine2007.jpg) http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/th_rondine2005.jpg (http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/?action=view&current=rondine2005.jpg)
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/th_rondine2006.jpg (http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/?action=view&current=rondine2006.jpg) http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/th_rondine2004.jpg (http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/?action=view&current=rondine2004.jpg) http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/th_rondine2003.jpg (http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/cp8ir/Rondine/?action=view&current=rondine2003.jpg)

I would think that it would definitely be worth spending some time/money to rebuild.

Very cool CP. That will make a really cool table when refirbed. I didn't know they made an automatic lift on those. What are your plans???

I saw that table on ebay, I think, and wondered about the automatic lift. Has anyone else seen one? My gut feeling it is an add-on, but I really don't know.

If your table is like mine, it uses a mylar belt, not a springy rubber one. It wraps around the platter and the motor spindle and then the belt is tensioned by that extra little wheel. It is pretty simple really. You can probably get a belt someplace or make one out of surplus 1/4 inch recording tape.

Good luck. You have a good motor and a fine platter and bearing. With some effort you can have something that challenges the finest belt-drives available. At least I think so.

Thanks for your opinions and comments. My initial plans include getting a belt from Turntable Basics (it looked like there was only one type for all the Rek-o-kuts?) and getting a replacement stylus for the cartridge if possible just to see where I'm at. Perusing this thread, it looks like I'll need to educate myself on plinth building (more like finding someone to make something for me) and tonearms. I'm a turntable newbie so there's lots to read up on.

This unit belongs to my father; it had been stored in a closet for years. It was pretty bizarre/amazing seeing the arm start to cue up and the platter spin after at least 30 some years on the shelf.

I am seeking any advise, tips or secrets for rebuilding the B12H motor. Mine came out off a dirty/oily Rondine Deluxe and I want to clean it up and lube it before putting it back to use. Has anyone had theirs completely apart?

BHamm

OK, so I answered my own question.

The stepped pulley on the end of the motor shaft slides off with some gentle prying. It looks like it's made from a resin compound. Then the armature can be removed. Mine was fairly clean and the bearing surface looks good. Now I can clean the assembly, and re-lube the bronze bearings.

WOW excellent pics !!! Does your motor have the fan ?
bob

No fan. I am impressed with the quality though. The outer case is machined aluminum and the copper wire used for the windings is very fine and looks hand wound.

WOW excellent pics !!! Does your motor have the fan ?
bob

OK, so I answered my own question.

The stepped pulley on the end of the motor shaft slides off with some gentle prying. It looks like it's made from a resin compound. Then the armature can be removed. Mine was fairly clean and the bearing surface looks good. Now I can clean the assembly, and re-lube the bronze bearings.

Have you miced the shaft and bearing or is there no discernable play? That is one big ass motor. I just got the replacement motor gromets for mine and there are so much more plyable than the origanals.

I did not detect any discernible play in shaft/bushings. Not that I would be able to do much about it if there was.

What replacement grommets did you get? There are some on eBay, but they are expensive. I found some in a catalog recently, www.vibrationmounts.com

I haven't gotten that far yet, though. I still need the grommets, redo idler wheel and put it all back together.

Have you miced the shaft and bearing or is there no discernable play? That is one big ass motor. I just got the replacement motor gromets for mine and there are so much more plyable than the origanals.

I got mine from Esoteric sound. Click on the link and scroll half way down the page. There is also a rumble graph that shows the diff between stock and his. Good luck.

http://www.esotericsound.com/access.htm

I bookmarked the link. Thanks for the tip.

BHamm

I got mine from Esoteric sound. Click on the link and scroll half way down the page. There is also a rumble graph that shows the diff between stock and his. Good luck.

http://www.esotericsound.com/access.htm

I just love to browse this thread and lust on the great work you guys do on the ROK turntables. Very Inspiring. I picked this one up on eBay and I have been looking for ideas on upgrading. Any suggestions will be appreciated. It's a N33H and I don't see many of them around, it makes me wonder if it's not one of the better models they made.

I just love to browse this thead and lust on the great work you guys do on the REK turntables. Very Inspiring. I picked this one up on eBay and I have been looking for ideas on upgrading. Any suggestions will be appreciated. It's a N33H and I don't see many of them around, it makes me wonder if it's not one of the better models they made.

Looks like you have a nice little deck there:thmbsp:. Maybe all you need is a good cleaning and lube the hysteresis motor.

I will be building a new plinth for mine with more mass.

Thanks BHamm. A good plinth seems to be the ultimate TT upgrade,I'm also thinking of replacing the tonearm to an SME 3009 II. My unit is missing the ball Bearing the user manual suggest a .321" anyone knows where to find these or a suilable replacement?

http://ortechceramics.com/store/prodDetail.asp?recordID=84&orderID=

ortechceramics.com/store/prodDetail.asp?recordID=84&orderID=

Thanks for that link. I needed a new ball too.

I didn't notice the min order on that, I can look for another source.


Edit: http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7805 here is a group of 10 for less expensive prices. Ceramic = silicon nitride (Si3N4) in most cases but you will sometimes run into Zircon (ZrO2). Not sure which is better, but some of the very expensive upgrades for TD-124s use Silicon Nitride.

I didn't notice the min order on that, I can look for another source.


Edit: http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7805 here is a group of 10 for less expensive prices. Ceramic = silicon nitride (Si3N4) in most cases but you will sometimes run into Zircon (ZrO2). Not sure which is better, but some of the very expensive upgrades for TD-124s use Silicon Nitride.

Thanks for the info, now I know exactly what I'm looking for. If I find another source I'll let you guys know.

dayton ohio craigs list rek-o-kut

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 2009-08-02, 2:24PM EDT
Reply to: sale-bxrfk-1301972014@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


We are selling my husband's grandfather's record player. It is in excellent condition. There are no nicks or scratches in the wood, and the turn table still spins, though we think it needs a new needle. Please write with specific questions and we will do our best to answer.


Location: Middletown
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

that one is 50 bucks if intrested

This doesn't really belong in this thread, but it would be a great deal for someone looking.

You should post this to dollars and sense.

Just received this .The seller told me the base is rare.Korina wood.I looked at the original prices of this deck and I paid the same price as the retail price 50 years ago. The only thing it is missing is the oil tubes. what are the tubes made out of so they won't dissinigrate?

That is beautiful Triode. I don't know about the oil tube.

Hi,
Please reference pic below, I received a nice rok some months ago... Well about a month ago i decided to give her a spin. For whatever reason I decided to change the cartridge. While doing so i guess i tugged on one of the wires a little to hard and broke solder joint on one of the pins.
Question, I am assuming these pins are spring loaded. They are awefully small and if there was one in there I never saw it. Anybody have an idea what size these are ? Where I may be able to pick some up ??

I would look at small diameter fuel line like the kind used on small gasoline engines (weed eaters etc.), or a hobby shop. If it's impervious to fuel it will probably stand up to oil too. Good luck and let us know if you find any.

Just received this .The seller told me the base is rare.Korina wood.I looked at the original prices of this deck and I paid the same price as the retail price 50 years ago. The only thing it is missing is the oil tubes. what are the tubes made out of so they won't dissinigrate?

Great idea! I'm gonna go to Hobby Lobby and look at the gas powered model section.

Here's my Rondine (not deluxe) which is a fine turntable. She'll need a new plinth though...

http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd358/Maxseven777/DSC_0012-1.jpg

Max Seven,

That's a great photo. :thmbsp:

That is a good looking TT!

Here's my Rondine (not deluxe) which is a fine turntable. She'll need a new plinth though...

http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd358/Maxseven777/DSC_0012-1.jpg

I listened to the Rondine for a long time last night. I mounted the Shure M97xe, which seems to be a perfect mate for the very massy 120 arm.

I've always been skeptical of the rumbly rim drive turntables, but listening to the Rondine has astounded me and I'm not just saying that because it's a new acquisition. I can't figure out how this old thing can sound so good, and I never expected such lush and accurate sound.

What's up with that?

Hi,
Please reference pic below, I received a nice rok some months ago... Well about a month ago i decided to give her a spin. For whatever reason I decided to change the cartridge. While doing so i guess i tugged on one of the wires a little to hard and broke solder joint on one of the pins.
Question, I am assuming these pins are spring loaded. They are awefully small and if there was one in there I never saw it. Anybody have an idea what size these are ? Where I may be able to pick some up ??

I did the same thing, but I retained the part of the pin that broke off. I soldered the pin back to the other piece (very tricky), and it seems to be holding well now. I had to use a very steady hand and a magnifying glass to make sure the solder joint was strong.

You can usually remove the socket part fron the armtube by removing one or two small screws on the underside. The pins are spring loaded but before you solder the wire back in place put an empty headshell in the socket. This acts like a heatsink and prevents the pin from heating the plastic too much, otherwise the pin will start to stick and contact will be iffy.

Just read through this whole thread and to ALL of the woodworkers that build their own plinths, well WOW ! .... some absolutely beautiful craftsmanship .... I have not seen TTs ever that look like those !

That is beautiful Joe. I'll call today sometime to set a time to get together. I agree about the plinth.

Ok, I appreciate the tips and Merrylander I am pretty sure you know your way around an iron. I will follow your advice... I have finally retired the rat-shack iron and placed a weller station on order.
However i still have no idea what the spring looks like or where I can find one diametrically small enough. help please...

I have also attached a few pics. I am pretty sure this one can clean up well but not overly impressed with the oak color of the pilth. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should be using to remove corrosion on tonearm and platter ?

I had the pleasure to have worked on a Rek-O-Kut B16H turntable from the early 60s. When I got it from it's present owner, it was in neglected condition (he said it came from a record store that closed in 1990 and was built into the counter there). The main spindle bearing oil varnished and it was all but seized (took my 200 lbs and all my strength to pull the platter off).. Cleaned and re-lubed everything, got all the years of "nicotine and tar" off, as well as cleaning the idler wheels (which fortunately were in excellent condition, no "flat spots"). Then I set the turntable into the basic plinth that I had built for it from surplus Kitchen Aid "butcher block" (from an old dishwasher). The whole setup ended up sounding quite nice and was able to play a 16" disc on it, too. Definitely a well constructed AMERICAN made turntable that was built to last!

I asked this question in my Rondine Jr L34 thread (http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=244216), but I might get an answer here:A question for the ROK folks out there... When I turned it off, I noticed that the motor is really warm - hot, really. Is that normal/okay or should I be doing something about that?I'm wondering if a tear-down and cleaning, relube of the square motor is in order here. Or could it be that the motor cap should be replaced? It's only 50 years old... :)

The motor on my ROK, while different than yours, does get quite hot. It will be interesting to hear feedback from others.

How much oil, and what type, should I put in my bearing??? The shaft has an up-turning groove which usually indicates the bottom should be in a bath of oil so the groove can move it up to constantly keep the whole shaft coated. Thanks.

Anything much more than just covering the ball and you'll make a mess.

I ended up using whatever my dad had on hand at the time. SAE30 oil but i haven't played around with alternatives yet.

I've been playing my B-12H all day (8 hours straight) and the motor is hot! But running quiet and sounding pretty darn good.

In the B-12 manual they recommend oiling the motor shaft after 500 hours of continous use (or 1000 hours of intermittent use). I got a feeling this table can handle the heat.:yes:

As far as oil I've been using "Silent Run" lubricating oil - its recommended for industrial motors and does a nice job - not sure it's audiophile recommended though.:D

Hey D, why do you think the groove is there if not to pull oil up???

Silent Run??? I have some of that around here V. Thanks for reminding me.

Oh,it's there for the oil, but it takes very little more than covering the ball to get enough oil to fill the groove. I estimated a little too much and had a nice oil puddle to deal with.

Gotch' ya.

actually we use those in production tooling sometimes. in the tooling world they are dual purpose. one being for oil and 2 being to give any contaminates that may get in there a place to go other than the somewhat tight fit between shaft and bore. they work well