Just curious guys.
How many LP-12 owners are there on AK? Lets have a show of hands.

I am. But mine is a pretty unusual, in that I have an ET-2 Tonearm, and a Sota Reflex clamp mounted on mine.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=59034&d=1188196028

I have one with the Basik tonearm. I like it alot.

Mike O

Aug 4th 1979 LP12 with Akito arm with Grado Sonata cartridge, with fresh oil.:D

That's a wild version of a LP12 Goldear..

update:

Vahalla Board installed, new motor, Ittok ViI arm and Dorian cartridge. Like having a new turntable.

I wish I knew more about the Cirkus it seems to be a matter of taste of what happens when you install it.

I am. But mine is a pretty unusual, in that I have an ET-2 Tonearm, and a Sota Reflex clamp mounted on mine.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=59034&d=1188196028

THought you weren't supposed to put a clamp on a Linn. How did it improve the sound doing that?

I have one with the Basik tonearm. I like it alot.

Mike O

I agree! :yes:

THought you weren't supposed to put a clamp on a Linn. How did it improve the sound doing that?
Well, your not supposed to put an ET-2 on a Linn either. But I'm not always one to listen to the Linn propaganda about these matters. And it turns-out that the ET-2 is a superb sounding match, its just very tricky to setup properly on a Linn.

The Sota clamp just firms-up the sound a bit (tightens the bass a little), and makes the quiet spots a little darker.

I have a very early LP-12 with Ittock LV II Arm, Sumiko Blackbird cartridge, upgraded power supply, and hopefully many happy years of listening ahead...

Also have an Axis, with Basik IV Arm, and an Adikt cartridge. I love it in my "back-up" system...

Mine is from the mid 80's with a Basik Plus arm and a Dynavector 17D3.

One of mine has an Ittok LVIII arm and a Grado Reference Sonata cartridge. Also the Hercules II power supply.

The other has a Basik arm, a Grado Prestige Red cartridge and the Valhalla power supply.

One of mine has an Ittok LVIII arm and a Grado Reference Sonata cartridge.

The other has a Basik arm and a Grado Prestige Red cartridge.

Do either of yours do a hum. Mine does an off again on again kind of thing. Really only notice it between tracks.

Thanks

Hi
I have a 1986 LP12/Vallhalla /Ittok/Denon 103. I have replaced the belt last year.

Regards
Rajiv

Do either of yours do a hum. Mine does an off again on again kind of thing. Really only notice it between tracks.

Thanks

The Sonata hums as it approaches the lead out grooves...clearly picking up something from the motor. I've got some mu-metal on order, and will see if shielding the motor helps at all.

The Red has no such issues.

I have a fully loaded one, I also use an Axis in my bedroom system.

Hi,

1985 LP12/Ittok LV-II/Karma (retipped in 2000)/Cirkus suspension/Trampolin baseboard with Linn Lingo power supply.

Love it!

I have a fully loaded one, I also use an Axis in my bedroom system.

When you say, "fully loaded" do you have a Keel??? I was considering one. Yes, they are grossly expensive (3250.00USD) Yet after hearing one in Ann Arbor at Overture Audio I feel that it firms up the sub-chassis and starts to combine the virtues of a rigid suspension table with a suspended. It also controls the geometry within a much tighter tolerance spec. I could buy the Keel or ... pay off my Mini Cooper loan, go on vacation to the Virgin Islands, or maybe start that bathroom remodel, so sufficed to say the dollars haven't jumped out of my pocket.

Presently I have a Sondek (sound-deck) Lp12, Ittok LVII, Cirkus, Trampolin, Lingo, with a new Akiva cartridge. The table and arm have been irreplaceable for me since 1982.

In the words of Ivor Tiefenbrun "A Wee Dram of Scotch" or more might be needed for me to get Keeled.

Happy Listening! :beatnik:

Hi all,

My first post. I too have an LP12. Box stock, purchased in the Fall of 1982 from a dealer in Southern CA. He started carrying Pink Triangle and sold off his demo LP12. I have the cherry plinth, or was it rosewood?? (Had to go look, think it's rosewood...) I was kinda disappointed, I always thought the lighter wood with the grooves in was the best looking.

Nothing's been done to it save replacing the thrust bearing cap on the motor, the original was noisy. Bought it w/o arm, bought a new Signet XK50 arm to put on it. Currently I'm using either a Shure V15VMR or Grado Platinum, but the Grado hums, so I probably use the Shure more. I did talk to Grado about it, they told me mumetal wouldn't help, I'd have to put it on the cartridge. I'm interested to see if the other post lets us know if his shielding works or not. Oh, and I tried a bunch of homemade turntable mats and plain thin cork sounds the best IMHO (recorded to wav files and played back on my iPod with Sony in-ear 'phones...)

I was working as a R&R touring sound engineer the year I bought it, and went to every stereo store in the country on my days off. I asked, simply, what record player/deck would you buy if you could buy the best, and almost unanimously the response was LP12. So I bought one.....

Hi All,

I have a used Linn LP12 TT, S/N 079957 with Ekos tonearm, Troika Cartridge and Lingo power supply. I really dont know what year this belongs to. Maybe someone here can read from the Serial Number and decode? An Ortofon MC stepup transformer helps boost the Troika signal.

Anyway, I am very happy with its performance - especially with my Vintage McIntosh setup. Simply musical.

Cheers!

I have a 70's vintage LP12 with a new bottom board, main bearing (NOT Cirkus, did not like what it did to the bass)fresh motor and Vallhalla as of 1998 or 1999??, Grace 707 Tonearm/Benz-micro ACE, wired with the new Cardas silver interconnect, clear dustcover and a silver powercord.

I am thinking of going with a new motor package for it, the one that is a true DC, running off a battery.

I love my table.
It makes real music and seems to show me what is on the vinyl...good, bad or otherwise...it does not get in the way of the music.
I like the fact that you can stay more basic, like mine...or go to the moon with the table.

I run a late 70s LP12 fitted with a Hercules Vallhalla replacement - a great upgrade! with the adantage of having two speeds. I have recently fitted an Origin Live Silver arm - much better than the original Ittok! (very overated arm imho?). I run an Ortofon MC Jubilee thru a Naim phono pre-amp. I changed the Ittok simply because it was wearing out and wouldnt track the Ortofon and Linn No longer offer support for this arm! the Origin Live Silver is a bargain! and if a great match for the LP12.

I have a 70's vintage LP12 with a new bottom board, main bearing (NOT Cirkus, did not like what it did to the bass)fresh motor and Vallhalla as of 1998 or 1999??, Grace 707 Tonearm/Benz-micro ACE, wired with the new Cardas silver interconnect, clear dustcover and a silver powercord.

I am thinking of going with a new motor package for it, the one that is a true DC, running off a battery.

I love my table.
It makes real music and seems to show me what is on the vinyl...good, bad or otherwise...it does not get in the way of the music.
I like the fact that you can stay more basic, like mine...or go to the moon with the table.

I'm curious of your opinion, based on your comment about not preferring the bass with a Cirkus bearing. Could it be that the increased detail in the upper and midrange has dwarfed the bass in juxtaposition? I find the bass exactly the same as before the Cirkus addition to my table. I did have the rare advantage of hearing an identical deck, with same cartridge (and same vintage), same arm, side-by-side and I opted for the Cirkus, fast as I could pull the dollars out of my pocket. The new bearing cut my record surface noise at least in half also and it wasn't bad to start with. I couldn't stand being without the huge increase in low level detail and resulting acoustic ambience transcribed from the recordings. Just curious, not trying to cross-examine your choice or start an arm wrestling match with you. :music:

Happy Listening! :beatnik:

I have a new to me 86 lp12 w/ ittok vii and grado ref master breaking in and settling in to my system. :music:

The new bearing cut my record surface noise at least in half also and it wasn't bad to start with.

Happy Listening! :beatnik:

I totally agree on this!

:yes:

I have a 1977 vintage LP12 - fitted a rewired Rega RB250 and a Denon DL110. Very happy, bought loads of vinyl recently!

Richard

LP-12
Valhalla
Ittok LVII
Graham Silver tonearm lead
Herbie's Way Excellent Turntable Mat II
Benz H2O, or Denon DL103S (Shibata stylus version), or Asak, or Shure M-3D, or...well, too many to list...got a huge load of cartridges to play with...
Cartridge Leads made with Cardas 33ga. wire and Cardas cartridge tags...

+1

I currently have two LP-12's that I'm restoring.

- A 1978 (?) which will soon be fitted with a Grace arm. It's missing the lid and bottom cover but is in otherwise good working order.

- A 1983 w/ Vallhalla. This has a Basik LV-X arm that will be seeing a Dynavector 10x5 shortly. I plan on upgrading the arm at some point.

I have a Linn LP12 and Ivor showed me how to set one up...

Many moons ago I worked at the store which seems to have morphed into Overture in Ann Arbor.

Selling those first US LP12 was really fun...

Hi,

Ingrid and I each have a Linn Sondek LP12. Hers is at Vahalla level. Mine has my own power supply. Each machine has a Ittok arm and Asak cartridge. We love our Linns. Both cost less than $200 total. Nice machines we love!

This is my LP12 set up!

Quad 77 pre-amp
x2 Quad 77 power amps
bi-wired & bi-amped Quad 22L speakers
Linn LP12
Linn Lingo
Latest trampoline upgrade
Linn Circus upgrade
SME series V tonearm +ortofon Rohman cartridge
Nordost TYR tonearm cable upgrade
Nordost Valhalla interconnects
Trichord Dino + external power supply
QED silver anniversay speaker cable + airloc plugs

I am thinking of going with a new motor package for it, the one that is a true DC, running off a battery.

I'm not sure of the date of mine, but it has the Pink-Linnk power supply upgrade. Runs on DC off of a battery, and I now have 33 1/3, and 45RPM.
Basik Plus arm witha Grado Prestige Gold.
How do I determine date of manufacture?

Hi, I'm new to vinyl and just picked up an LP 12 and know nothing about it. I'll post a few pics here and hopefully the experts can help me with the specifics. I'd really like to know more about the tone arm and setup. Thanks.

Bought my Linn 1985 and currentl setup is LP12, Cirkus, Lingo, Naim ARO.

cheers

http://www.kumadesign.com/PIX/MIYABI/miyabi_aro1.jpg
A local Linn pro put gether this Frankenstein LP12.
I've started with a Basik/Basik Plus arm/K9 using Nait 3R's internal MM phono.
The current spec is Lingo/ARO/Miyabi 47 ( disco cartridge ) into Phonocube with double PSUs or Naim SuperLine.

http://www.kumadesign.com/PIX/MIYABI/miyabi_aro1.jpg
A local Linn pro put gether this Frankenstein LP12.
I've started with a Basik/Basik Plus arm/K9 using Nait 3R's internal MM phono.
The current spec is Lingo/ARO/Miyabi 47 ( disco cartridge ) into Phonocube with double PSUs or Naim SuperLine.

Nice Frankenstein. I am no expert on the LP12, but I do recall reading somewhere years ago that they did not like glass shelves... have you experimented?

Mana shelf works with an LP12.

I really like it with an LP12. (albeit when tuned. Otherwise it can sound awful )

You basically adjust spikes that support the glass shelf and get a clear ring off it.

I'm no expert on the deck either but love what it does.
http://www.kumadesign.com/PIX/LINTO/linto_akiva_lp12.jpg
Here's another view.
I've added a shelf called *reference top* which is an extra layer of rack that sits on a wall mounted one.

From what I understand you can add more shelves to this. What they do is basically draining the vibration off the table more effectively than a single layer.

Anyways, I have tried other shelf on the Mana, but I prefer the glass shelves the best on it.

There's a better shot; so you have experimented. Nice set up. :thmbsp:
Funny how some claim to not like the "ringing" of glass, and others prefer it. My Genki is on a glass sheet but it completely isolated by way of a hanging cable; I plan on trying some maple shelf eventually but have not got around to it...

Glass does ring.

But the Mana set up is better than I expected on a Sondek.

A Genki on a hanging glass shelf is interesting.

I used to own an Ikemi but never tried on a glass shelf. What worked the best with it was Nuance platform.

Hi, I'm new to vinyl and just picked up an LP 12 and know nothing about it. I'll post a few pics here and hopefully the experts can help me with the specifics. I'd really like to know more about the tone arm and setup. Thanks.

That's an early one as evidenced by the big red power switch...

More about the tonearm can be found at:http://www.vinylengine.com/library/mayware.shtml

.

Here's a good reading on a used LP12 FAQ.
http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9844
bigears,

It looks to be in an excellent shape.
If you never tuned the Linn before, it might be well worth it to look for a set up person. ( might save you a headache down the line )

Or the very least I suggest get new tune up parts ( springs/grommets, belt ) and a felt mat.

I hope its bearing is in a good shape.

Hi, I'm new to vinyl and just picked up an LP 12 and know nothing about it. I'll post a few pics here and hopefully the experts can help me with the specifics. I'd really like to know more about the tone arm and setup. Thanks.

Your tonearm is a Mayware Formula 4.

You can find all information about the tonearm and deck at the vinyl engine website. They even have the set-up manual for the Linn.

Btw, your cartridge looks like a Grace F9-E.

Kuma, thanks for the link I'll be reading up. Dogs- good eye, the cart is a Grado F-9!

I'm lucky enough to own two of them. One is a late version LP 12/Cirkus/Lingo/Ekos/Akiva/Linto, (although I generally use a DIY tube based passive phono preamp) the other is an LP 12/Ittock LVII/Newer Valhalla board/Shure V15VxMR.

I got my LP12 3 years back after yearning for one since my student days.

Cirkus-ed, Ittok LVII, DIY power supply, Benz Ruby 3, PP-1 Lukaschek.


The shot here was when an Adikt was attached.


http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc34/RobA4/rl000004.jpg

Bought my first LP12 in 1985 with black ash plinth. Upgraded to a Cirkus model in 1993 (like a previous poster, when compared, I thought the Cirkus a major step forward), this time going with afromosia wood. Got an Ittok LVIII/2 at the same time, upgrading from a Basik LVX (had started with a new Basik Plus in 1985, and later upgraded to an Ittok LVII, but a work layoff led to selling the Ittok and picking up a used LVX--very happy to still have the LVIII/2).

Purchased my LP12 a long time ago....I think in the late 70's with a Keith Monks TA..the one that uses mercury.....

Hi,

Ingrid and I each have a Linn Sondek LP12. Hers is at Vahalla level. Mine has my own power supply. Each machine has a Ittok arm and Asak cartridge. We love our Linns. Both cost less than $200 total. Nice machines we love!

You seem to get deals all the time!

:music:

I recently purchased an old LP12 in poor shape. I bought a new belt, spring kit and Linn oil for it. It sounds better now, but seems to be a bit bright. It has an old SAEC phono cable. I put my old Grado GF-1 cartridge on it, with a new Grado Gold + stylus. I think it the most revealing turntable I've got, but I'd like to get some advice regarding the brightness.

Assuming, the bearing of the table and arm are not shot, your arm board looks to be unusually high from the picture.

It needs to be levelled against the plinth and make sure the plinth is on level.

Are you sure the table is bouncing up and down and no side way motion?
Are all springs installed without touching the top bush? If it is it could affect the bounce decay.

Also, your Linn does not have the original feet. Cone type feet can make the high frequency thread bare. I would either get the original feet or 3M's bump on feet.

Have you played around with a VTF?
Which mat are you using?

Btw, i hope you installed the belt correctly. Using a magnifier, one side of the belt looks rough and the other side looks smooth. You install the rough side of the belt so that it surrounds the platter.

As kuma noted, your arm board seems too high. Level the plinth correctly as kuma stated then level the platter through the spring adjustment. You can download the set-up manual from the vinyl engine. If anything, use the original Linn felt mat. The Linn felt mat has a side which sounds better also. Just play a tune, flip the mat and listen, it's obvious.

Thanks for your advice guys. A friend of mine told me last night that the VTA looked too high, and after I got it leveled out the bass was much more pronounced. However it was still way brighter than I remember that Grado GF-1 being. Don't laugh, but I put two pieces of softwood boards under the plinth so that it didn't rest on those spikes. The brightness immediately disappeared and it sounded fantastic. I will throw those spikes away. Unfortunately this old table has long lost its base board and original feet. Would a 'tampolin' be worth buying? If not, I'll put something together for the bottom that improves the sound.

I've got a Denon DP62L, Linn Axis (recently completely rebuilt and adjusted) and the old Sondek already has the best soundstage of them all. I'm probably going to slowly upgrade this deck, but only within reason.

Original trampolin might do more harm than good depending on where the table is sitting.

It was originally designed for those who want to place the Sondek on a heavy furniture.
The table, in general, likes light and rigid support rather than a high mass support. ( in which case, you won't need a Trampolin and just have it bare )

A new Tampolin 2 is said to be better but I haven't tried one.

For the feet, you can go to a hardware store and buy 3M Bump-on feet.
http://www.kumadesign.com/PIX/LP12/3mfeet.jpg

If you don't have the bottom base board for the Linn, consider it an improvement :)! I ditched that board long ago as it acts like a diaphragm (just like a speaker cone) when playing music (in harmony with the speakers changing the sound pressure in the room).

I also installed 3M bump-ons under my Linn and you can go on the 3M website to look them up (they used to give away samples, it costs nothing to ask).

I also bought the original trampolin which I quickly ditched, it didn't last 1 week in my system. As kuma said, a light and rigid support for the Linn is great.

Hey dogs. (btw, where have you been? )

The ARO Keel is out.

Next year will be interesting!

Hanging around kuma :)! How much is it gonna cost for the Aro Keel? When are you getting it?

It's £1950 including VAT.
Dunno when it's going to be available in the US, tho. Sometime next year, I guess.
http://www.kumadesign.com/PIX/LP12/aro_keel.JPG

I think the thirty + year old AC motor on my Sondek is nearly finished. It seems to have a vibration when it warms up. Does anyone have any experience with a DIY power supply and DC motor replacement?

Interesting that you have vibration Number 6. I suspect that mine might be going the same way. At the moment, it's surviving though.
Early LP12 with the red power switch. I've looked at various upgrades on Ebay but never quite sure which would actually be the best bet and whether any of them would actually be worth the money. The deck sings sweetly but frustrates me that it doesn't have 45 rpm.
Is a Circus upgrade worth the cash?
Is a Lingo or Valhalla worth it and what would I need to buy in terms of the motor to fit a Lingo or Valhalla?
Thanks guys!

No.6,

I don't know DIY source for the motor/PSU. What you have is a 60hz motor if you want to stick with the Basik PSU.

If you want to upgrade to valhala or Lingo, then you need a 50hz motor with proper pully. Which would have a 45 rpm capability.

Is a Circus upgrade worth the cash?
My Sondek does not have a Cirkus bearing. Everyone I know told me that it's good but I haven't really direct AB. ( altho, I had a friend's Cirkused Linn at home which sounded nice enough ( this was Naimed ), I haven't bothered upgrading it. As your deck, it sounds nice enough as is and I don't really have much *bloated bass* problem everyone talks about. The Cirkus bearing is supposed to clean it up. If it's set up right, I think it's not really a mandatory item as keeping the deck in tune.

Is a Lingo or Valhalla worth it and what would I need to buy in terms of the motor to fit a Lingo or Valhalla?
If you see a used Lingo I, grab it. Altho, you have to switch over to a 50hz motor.

If you see a used Lingo I, grab it. Altho, you have to switch over to a 50hz motor.

I'm in the UK so I guess I'm on a 50Hz motor anyway.
I see lots of motors advertised here in the UK for LP12s that say 110 volts. No idea if they're right for a Lingo'ed LP12 in the UK? We have 240V 50Hz.

Don't quote me on this, but I think so long as your PSU is for 240V, it's okey. I thought that the pully determines the correct speed.
You might want to peek inside and see.
FWIW, this was the 50hz motor Linn supplied a few years ago.
http://www.kumadesign.com/PIX/LP12/50hz.jpg

I just ordered an Origin Live DC motor and psu today. It should take about a week to get here and install. I'll post my thoughts on it then. A new Premotec motor is pretty expensive, so I decided to try the Origin mod.

I got the Origin Live DC motor and PSU yesterday and installed it last night. It's still breaking in, but I think the sound is pretty good and getting better. I'm using a Grado Gold cartridge and the hum is gone, basically because the DC motor doesn't generate a field like the old AC motor did.

Next step is a better tonearm, and then a Cetech subchassis.

I like the basik Linn sound with the original PS and a basik arm. The only other option is to go the Naim route. Expensive and not necessarily a step forward unless you have an all Naim set up. And even then...

I've owned a few Lp12's and my latest was built from spare parts and set up by myself. Best one I've had yet.

I started out with a Basik PS, Basik Plus arm and a Linn K9 on a Sondek and even on this stripped out form, it showed the deck's strength.

Then upgraded to an Ittok which lasted all of 4 weeks ( very dissapointing ) before I moved on to the Naim ARO after comparing it to the EKOS. ( they do sound a lot different )

My Sondek was also built from the spare parts but not by me. ( too fiddly )

I just picked up mid 80's Sondek from a friend. It's going to be tuned this weekend.

Then upgraded to an Ittok which lasted all of 4 weeks ( very dissapointing )



Are you saying you preferred the the basik. I've heard (but have no first hand experience) that the basik has a better sense of flow and the Ittok smooths things over to a degree that some people don't necessarily like.


Linn is a strange company. They've been around so long, and sometimes, the upgrades are not necessarily better than what they upgraded. But the upgrades are still very worthy on their own terms, so most people prefer them. Linn kan 2 vs the original. Cirkus vs the original bearing. Briks vs just about anything. And so it goes...


NP

NP,

I guess the balance I had with the Basik Plus and the K9 was better than Ittok with it. Altho, upgraded cartridge didn't do much to my liking either.
Ittok and EKOS starts to take on Linn's house sound.

A new Keeled EKOS SE is pretty good, tho.

I have one with an Ittok arm and Adcom moving coil cartridge, bought it new in about 1982-3, still sounds great. Tried a new Grado cartridge on it, but that was awful, so I'm back to the old Adcom.

LWB,

Your cartridge lasted 26 years? :0

Currently, I have been trying out a Denon DL103 on the ARO.
http://www.kumadesign.com/PIX/DENON/103_side3.jpg

I was told a cartridge shouldn't last so long - by someone who wanted to sell me a new cartridge. A few years ago I purchased a Grado something-or-other, one of those ones with the carved wood cartridge body, highly recommended at the time to replace my senior Adcom cross-coil MC. After installing and carefully setting up the table, I found the Grado just sounded dead compared to my old MC.

I ripped out the Grado and re-installed my antique Adcom (I never throw anything out) and all was sweetness and light again. I'm still using it. It has always seen only light use, and this continues.

I've found that the next improvement in turntable output will come from a better phono section rather than a new cartridge. Wanting to get away cheap, and trusting Rotel from experience with some of their other great products, I bought an RQ-970BX - same time I bought the Grado - and found it very disappointing. The phono stages in my old Sansui amps sound better. Someday I might try building one - the Bottlehead stuff looks interesting, but there are other candidates. In the meantime, my Linn is piped through a Sansui AU-9500, which is itself slated for a recap and perhaps a few mods one of these days. For now, the Sansui is entirely original, a testament to its build quality.

I am amased that a cantilever held out this long on your Adcom!

Even if there is no use, overtime, the suspension goes away depending on a climate.
I had a NOS Sansui cartridge and whilst it played, putting in a new cartridge ( Ortofon ) made me realise that the suspension on the Sansui cart was gone.

I am not surprised that your vintage Sansui sounds better than a newer Rotel.

I just bought a new Linn Sondek LP12 Majik package. It comes with a Linn Adikt MM pickup and Pro-Ject tonearm. Sweet deal-sounds great! :music:

Congrats!

I recently upgraded my LP12 with the Cetech carbon fiber/aluminum honeycomb subchassis and armboard, having ordered these from Steve Millward in New Zealand.

The subchassis and armboard bolt together (rather than screw together like the standard parts). It was not possible for me to do an A/B comparison, but I feel that the mod has tightened up the sound, particularly the low frequency response. I considered the Keel upgrade, but the price was, IMO, unreasonable. The price of the Cetech mod, including the cost of having my local tech install the mod and tune up the suspension, was well below the Keel price.

Here are a couple of shots of the installed armboard-one with flash, and one without.

I recently upgraded my LP12 with the Cetech carbon fiber/aluminum honeycomb subchassis and armboard, having ordered these from Steve Millward in New Zealand.

The subchassis and armboard bolt together (rather than screw together like the standard parts). It was not possible for me to do an A/B comparison, but I feel that the mod has tightened up the sound, particularly the low frequency response. I considered the Keel upgrade, but the price was, IMO, unreasonable. The price of the Cetech mod, including the cost of having my local tech install the mod and tune up the suspension, was well below the Keel price.

Here are a couple of shots of the installed armboard-one with flash, and one without.

Very nice!

Another alternative to the Keel is the Sole sub chassis.
it's around £400, IIRC.

I have a Linn LP-12 w/basic arm bought new in '87. Over the course of the years it's been up graded with a Cardas neutral reference phono cable, Benz micro glider cartridge, benz-micro phono stage, Origin live dc motor kit. I made a base out of maple and mounted black diamond racing cones. Sits on a Zoethecus maple stand.

I've had my LP12 since the early 90's. It's was modded by the Pink Triangle Pink Link which replaced the top plate, switched the AC motor to DC, moved the motor to the 7:30 position and has an outboard DC Battery power supply.

The plinth is custom Brazilian Rosewood, and am using the Naim ARO tonearm with a wood bodied Benz Micro cartridge.

This table has served me flawlessly for many many years and I have absolutely loved it. Extremely musical, never fails to communicate. However, it is now showing signs for getting tired. Every once in awhile the platter will lose speed. There are times when I can listen for 3-4 hours at a time without a problem, and then other times it slows down. I don't know if the motor is dying or if the issue is with the power supply. In any case, I love this table soooo much, I will find some way to get her up to speed again.

No Regrets,

Where is the DC motor sourced from?

me too ! Serial 27207 early '81, all original, fitted with FR12 tonearm and FR-MC702 cartridge. Also have an FR-7 cartridge about to be sent off to be retipped.

Picture here..

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=145059&page=69

Have you ever tried an FR1 mk. II?

I did try the FR1, but was a wee while ago, it might have been the FR1-MK3F. couldn't swear though. I know the dealer I was in leagues with was always throwing cartridges at me to play with on weekends. I know had a go with the MC201 at one stage and then an Accuphase AC-1 ( I think that's what is was). Confess I like the integrated designs as you just set the VTA and tracking force and that's that. The frequency response on the MC702 and FR7 is also hard to beat too ! I like the Ortofon SPU's too but a bit pricey for me at the moment.

Thanks for your reply.

the only reason it piqued my interest is that late Julian Vereker used the said cartridge with an ARO.

No Regrets,

Where is the DC motor sourced from?

Hi kuma,

I'm hoping to have some time today to take the table apart and have a closer look at the motor. I'm hoping it will have the brand and model number printed on it somewhere.

I also read on a thread somewhere while trying to research my problem, that a person with a different table was experiencing simalar symptoms as mine and he applied some sewing machine oil to the motor and it solve his issues. I must admit that although I take excellent care of my Linn's bearing oil, I have never gave thought about lubricating the motor. So I think I will try giving the motor a couple drops of the sewing machine oil and see what happens.....it probably can't hurt. What do you guys think?

Have you tried to contact Pink Triangle?

Have you tried to contact Pink Triangle?

Yes, I did talk with Arthur via email. He said that he doesn't know if it would be the motor or the supply that is the culprit. Basically he was promoting the fact that I should just get the K-drive and motor kit because he felt that it is superior to the Pink Link power supply so why bother fixing the old when you can have the new and improved version. I said that I was perfectly happy with the old, and would really not like to have to part with roughly $1000 + US Dollars for the new. He understood, but said that mine is so old that he no longer has the schematic for it....If I really wanted this one fixed, he said that I could ship it to him and he could look at it but without a schematic it could take some time and the cost may be too prohibitive and then I might have as well bought the new K-Drive and motor. These conversations were a while ago when the first symptoms developed. But because it doesn't happen all the time, I have just been living with it so to speak. When the table doesn't feel like keeping pace, I listen to a different source. When it is working, I'm in heaven.

Gees.

that's not really an acceptable answer from the original supplier!
He no longer has a schematics because it's old? wtf.

How old is the motor and PSU? ( a battery could have gone bad, too )

Could it also be that your belt should be changed? How old is it?

Good point. It should be replaced every year.

Gees.

that's not really an acceptable answer from the original supplier!
He no longer has a schematics because it's old? wtf.

How old is the motor and PSU? ( a battery could have gone bad, too )

I'm guessing it's about 16 years old now. I replaced the battery and the belt but still no change. The bearing oil has been changed. The tracking force rechecked. That's why I think it has something to do with the motor or the supply. I have a good friend that is very talented with electronics. He said he'd be willing to replace all of the regulator chips in the supply if we can find like kind. He has a meter that can check capacitors in circuit to see if they are bad and they all tested fine. But again, without the schematic, we are running blind. So, I have to get the supply back from him, and try the oil lubrication trick on the motor. If that doesn't work, I'll let him replace the regulator chips......and after that I'm at a loss of what to do.

I really appreciate everyone sharing their ideas with me. If you come up with any more, please continue to tell me. I'll try just about anything. My digital source is making my ears bleed!

You might want to post your question at Pink Fish Media where some folks there know more about older Pink Triangle kit.

It seems some did have known PSU problems. There are a few knowledgeable folks there so someone might be able to help you out.

http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=5

Good luck!

You might want to post your question at Pink Fish Media where some folks there know more about older Pink Triangle kit.

It seems some did have known PSU problems. There are a few knowledgeable folks there so someone might be able to help you out.

http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=5

Good luck!

Thanks kuma,

I took your advice and registered there just now. Hopefully someone will have experienced my problem and know the solution.....worth a try.

Thanks again.

Well, just a little update on my speed problem. We cleaned the contacts on the din plug that connects the supply to the table. I have logged about 40+ hours now and no signs of speed problems as of yet. So I'm hopeful that it was just a dirty connection giving a me a little grief.

Thanks to all for sharing their thoughts and suggestions.

Well I finally got around to filling out the paper work and joined AK so as an LP-12 owner I will join the thread. I have had mine for three years. Bought it used and in bad shape, but local dealer got it up and running for me and I have done a few upgrades since. I had the Cirkus upgrade, replaced the original power supply with a Hercules II, upgraded from an Akito 2B to an Ittok LVIII and had the original plinth replaced. I have to say it was probably one of my top two buys in this hobby.

Hi,

Ingrid and I each have a Linn Sondek LP12. Hers is at Vahalla level. Mine has my own power supply. Each machine has a Ittok arm and Asak cartridge. We love our Linns. Both cost less than $200 total. Nice machines we love!

:eek::eek: Wow, I wish I could find even one for even double that, good work!

LP12 owner since 1986. Current Sondek is 1993 vintage with Lingo, Ekos and K18II cartridge. I bought a number of K18II styli when Linn discontinued the cartridge, I'm on my last one now, it's about time for a new cartridge, not sure which direction to go. The rest of the system consists of a LK1 preamp with Dirak supply, Aktiv Isobariks with 3 LK280s, Creek CD60 cd player, various other sources. The Creek is getting a little long in the tooth, probably time for a new cd player too.

I'm an LP12 owner too, since 6 years ago. Valhalla, Ittok LVII/Karma.
Think it's a late 80s vintage in black, with black arm. Cool-looking combo!
I had forgotten how good it sounded until I plugged it back into my system this afernoon and played "The Wall" - still recovering...

Linn LP12 owner since 1988. Have recently taken it out of storage after about 8 years. Still sounds great to me.

I've had my late 80's LP12 for about 6 years. It originally came with a Valhalla/Akito I/Glider combo. Akito has been replaced by Jelco SA-370H with Baltic Birch arm-board. Other changes include custom external box for Valhalla PS, top plate flip to position motor at 7 o:clock and SR1000 anti-vibration compound on the sub-chassis underside.

Jeff

Same Rosewood LP-12 since the early 1980's, though upgraded periodically. Currently, with Lingo PS, Ekos Arm, and Archiv cartridge.

About 42.... :D

In 1986 I was working for a So. Cal. Linn dealer as a home installer. Over a years time, I bought the LP12/Valhalla/Ittok/Troika/LK1/LK2/Kans that I still have today. The Troika didn't survive meeting my infant son (ever see a grown man cry?), but I still got over 12 years out of it. Running a Benz ACE now. The Kans have blown tweeters and rotted woofer surrounds, so am using some Celestion Impact 10's on the Kan stands.

When the dealer went out of business, I ended with their factory issued LP12 setup jig including the speed disc and hand held strobe. It has come in handy for disassembling and repacking the turntable a couple of times.

I've finally moved down the Sondek in the main system.
http://www.kumadesign.com/pix/SYSTEM1/system1_lp12.jpg
http://www.kumadesign.com/pix/SYSTEM1/system1_lp12_2.jpg
With a second Akiva.
http://www.kumadesign.com/pix/SYSTEM1/akiva09.jpg
Now the system is complete with a classic 80's pairing of LP12/Naim/Linn ( Briks )

Picked up a used LP12/Ittok/Azak late 80's.Fitted a Valhalla kit and a new belt and it has been perfect since.A new cart (AToc5 fitted later. In storage for the last 5 years but looking forward to getting it out again soon.

I have a 1999 vintage LP12. Purchased with Valhalla/Akito/K9. Now has Hercules PSU replacing the Valhalla and a Grado Gold cart instead of the K9. I also use a Michell record clamp as it's quite light I find it works well. Better than my Nagaoka clamp was on my Sondek.

pipcell,

Why do you need a clamp on a Sondek?

pipcell,

Why do you need a clamp on a Sondek?

There's a lot of 125 gram vinyl out there that needs flattening out.

I have owned an LP-12 since early 80's. It has Valhalla and Trampolinn upgrades as well as motor mount mod. It is fitted with a Basik II and Grado Signature 8MZ. It is on a Sound Organization platform.

I have owned an LP-12 since early 80's. It has Valhalla and Trampolinn upgrades as well as motor mount mod. It is fitted with a Basik II and Grado Signature 8MZ. It is on a Sound Organization platform.


That sounds like a sweet set-up. And welcome to AK, sir.

I have owned a secondhand LP12 since 1994.... Then I got the courage to experiment about 6 years ago, and now I can build my own from surplus and some fabricated parts. My original setup was a Valhalla upgraded 1982 vintage 37xxx with a bonded subchassis (pre Cirkus) and a Basik LV-X tonearm w/ Signet AM20s cartridge. Now, my current "flagship" setup (mostly genuine, except for the plinth and armboard, which are essentially Linn spec, anyways) is Hercules II, Akito II (improved repaired antiskate piece), 61xxx pre-Cirkus, with an Ortofon OM/"NE" cartridge setup. Sounds amazing and was priced right, too. I also have two other functional LP12 turntables (as well as 3 more to build - just have to build the plinths and finish the top plates for those). So I guess I qualify to answer this question "yes"... Oh, and I built several of these LP12 setups for friends, too (one right here in town, another in Connecticut, and one for a friend's longtime friend in Maryland).

LP12 pictured belongs to my friend Ken ...It has the Hercules II power supply, homemade Marbled Walnut plinth (that I built, was supposed to be mine, but he begged to have it for his), rebuilt Akito I tonearm (with some MK2 mods/improvements), Shure V15-IV-MR cartridge, and his has a "fake" top plate (Linn spec).

I have owned a secondhand LP12 since 1994.... Then I got the courage to experiment about 6 years ago, and now I can build my own from surplus and some fabricated parts. My original setup was a Valhalla upgraded 1982 vintage 37xxx with a bonded subchassis (pre Cirkus) and a Basik LV-X tonearm w/ Signet AM20s cartridge. Now, my current "flagship" setup (mostly genuine, except for the plinth and armboard, which are essentially Linn spec, anyways) is Hercules II, Akito II (improved repaired antiskate piece), 61xxx pre-Cirkus, with an Ortofon OM/"NE" cartridge setup. Sounds amazing and was priced right, too. I also have two other functional LP12 turntables (as well as 3 more to build - just have to build the plinths and finish the top plates for those). So I guess I qualify to answer this question "yes"... Oh, and I built several of these LP12 setups for friends, too (one right here in town, another in Connecticut, and one for a friend's longtime friend in Maryland).

LP12 pictured belongs to my friend Ken ...It has the Hercules II power supply, homemade Marbled Walnut plinth (that I built, was supposed to be mine, but he begged to have it for his), rebuilt Akito I tonearm (with some MK2 mods/improvements), Shure V15-IV-MR cartridge, and his has a "fake" top plate (Linn spec).

Damn, that's pretty.
Nice work!

Linn LP12 + Helius arm + Supex 900 super cart + Supex step up.