View Full Version : An Interesting listen..........to a PRO Amp.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 05:35 PM
Well, my Youth Group wants me to provide music for our Purim Carnival (Yes, I'm Jewish), so I pulled out my Tascam M30 mixer to verify it's working condition, and the Peavey CS-400 Power Amp that I am going to use. I opened up the peavey, and vacuumed it out again, as the first time I did it, which was when I got it, the Vacuum barely got anything out. The vacuum was bad. I pulled the power transistor board, and cleaned that out with qtips, and vaccumed it as I was doing that to suck out all the dirt I could. I also went through it and cleaned as much dust out as I could. I also cleaned off the fan blades *COUGH COUGH* those were BAD. I put everything back together, and connected it to the Mixer via some home made RCA to 1/4" cables.
I got out the baby Advent speakers, which I know that power amp is overkill for, but they are handy to move around. Wired it all up, and connected my iPod to it, and played a lossless rip of Merieke, sung by Judy Collins. :music: :jawdrop:
I was floored. I never thought that either a) My Advents could sound that good (I was about 3' away from them, so I was in the nearfield), and B) That that combo could sound so amazing. WOW! Having just read the thread on Pro Amps vs. home amps, I have to say that this sounds MUCH better than my Onkyo TX-4500. I gotta listen more to this, but first impressions are VERY good. When I used this before, I had my JBL's positioned differently, and I had a lot of things different in my system.
The cables that I made are probably only about 8" long, as I usually have the power amp right beside the mixer, but now I will try to find my barrel connectors to lengthen the cable, so I can run it from the pre Outs on my Onkyo.
Has anyone else ever heard this amp?
Does anyone know how I could integrate it into my equipment stack? It's rackmount and has no feet.
What do I do to get rid of the noise when I turn on the power switch? It might be a WHUMP, but the baby Advent's don't go that low.
Where could I source a quieter fan for this?
Just find some rubber feet off os something that someone is throwing away or put some mouse pads under it or something. The whump would probably be a DC offset. There is a thread about that around here somewhere, I would suggest reading it. Good luck with the DJing. :thmbsp:
BrassTeacher
03-04-2008, 05:59 PM
I would imagine the Peavey doesn't have output relays, so the thump may be natural.
You can get big rubber feet at any good hardware store or, as suggested, use some off of a "donor" unit. Is the fan 120 volts or 12 volts? Given the amps age, it is probably 120 volts. I have a few, high quality, 120 volt muffin fans out of an old mainframe power supply that are pretty quiet if you need one(free, PM me). I will have to dig one out to measure it (think I know where they are:D), but it is around 4 3/4", the bigger one than what is used in a modern computer power supply.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 06:14 PM
You can get big rubber feet at any good hardware store or, as suggested, use some off of a "donor" unit. Is the fan 120 volts or 12 volts? Given the amps age, it is probably 120 volts. I have a few, high quality, 120 volt muffin fans out of an old mainframe power supply that are pretty quiet if you need one(free, PM me). I will have to dig one out to measure it (think I know where they are:D), but it is around 4 3/4", the bigger one than what is used in a modern computer power supply.
yeah, this one's probably 4 3/4". I'll check again tomorrow when I pull the case off, or maybe tonight. Thanks fro the offer!
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 06:17 PM
Just did the Offset....10mV Channel A, 13mV, both EXCELLENT ratings, acording to EchoWars' guide.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 06:27 PM
I would imagine the Peavey doesn't have output relays, so the thump may be natural.
I dind't see any relays when I opened the amp.....I kinda know what they look like.
If the new fan is too noisy, and it is 120volts, you can install a speed control switch with a diode to give the fan 1/2 wave power, slowing it down. This should be ok as long as you don't crank it, and it sounds like it's just idling along. If you use it for PA, just flip the switch. Not that hard of a mod, we can help you along.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 07:16 PM
If the new fan is too noisy, and it is 120volts, you can install a speed control switch with a diode to give the fan 1/2 wave power, slowing it down. This should be ok as long as you don't crank it, and it sounds like it's just idling along. If you use it for PA, just flip the switch. Not that hard of a mod, we can help you along.
Hmmm...how does one do that? It's gotta be PA ready by Sunday, and I have $1 on me right now. Might be able to get $7 more soon.
Might be useful for the orig. fan, too.
avguytx
03-04-2008, 07:43 PM
What kind of power is it rated for? There's no substitute for power they say. Ok, I can relate...I have a Carver 380wpc amp on my SDA's and sounds great. Then again, I have a 12wpc (or so) Magnavox tube amp on my Altec's and that sounds sweet, too.
As far as the fan goes, will it really be that annoying while you're using it to play music? Won't the ambient noise of the room with the people and tunes make it kind of null? Heck, for that matter, unhook the fan while you still have it at home and are playing it on the Advents and see how warm it gets. It's not like it's going to overheat playing at average volume. What speakers will it ultimately be hooked up to? Are they efficient?
similost
03-04-2008, 07:51 PM
I've listened to and used more Peavey amps than you can imagine. THey are a really great sounding amp, especially if you get a good pre running into them, which I know Tascams are...
I run nothing but pro amps any more, and I will put them up against a good chunk of the regular home owner grade stuff out there.. they are very under rated because of closed minds, and I am thankful lof that.. keeps the prices cheap..
Here's a diagram, sorry it's in chicken scratch format. The diode can go either way since it's a/c. Radio Shack should have everything you need for about 7 bucks. Just be very careful when routing everything. I recommend using heat-shrink on the diode to minimize exposed wires, you can solder it directly to the switch. Just don't get the diode too hot, and use a heat-sink when soldering to it. A 3 amp diode should be enough to handle the peak current. Mount the switch anywhere convenient, the back would probably be the best, around the fuse(s) or where the cord enters the amp. Route wiring away from signal-carrying components to prevent noise. Do you have an internal picture of this beast? It's been quite a while since I saw the internal layout of one.
Does everyone agree? Or does this need to be handled differently?:scratch2:
If you use this amp for PA, I suggest leaving the fan as it is. If you decide to install a speed control, use the fan at full power or the amp may get too hot (for PA).
As for the turn on thump, I not so sure of a solution. You say there is no relay, does turning the gain controls down make a difference?
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 08:07 PM
What kind of power is it rated for? There's no substitute for power they say. Ok, I can relate...I have a Carver 380wpc amp on my SDA's and sounds great. Then again, I have a 12wpc (or so) Magnavox tube amp on my Altec's and that sounds sweet, too.
As far as the fan goes, will it really be that annoying while you're using it to play music? Won't the ambient noise of the room with the people and tunes make it kind of null? Heck, for that matter, unhook the fan while you still have it at home and are playing it on the Advents and see how warm it gets. It's not like it's going to overheat playing at average volume. What speakers will it ultimately be hooked up to? Are they efficient?
ULTIMATELY, they will be driving JBL 4311's in my room, with me alone, and no one else. Ambient noise is VERY low. last time I had it in there, granted, it was a different position, but the fan noise was VERY disconcerting when i was not listening to music (I left it on).
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 08:08 PM
Here's a diagram, sorry it's in chicken scratch format. The diode can go either way since it's a/c. Radio Shack should have everything you need for about 7 bucks. Just be very careful when routing everything. I recommend using heat-shrink on the diode to minimize exposed wires, you can solder it directly to the switch. Just don't get the diode too hot, and use a heat-sink when soldering to it. A 3 amp diode should be enough to handle the peak current. Mount the switch anywhere convenient, the back would probably be the best, around the fuse(s) or where the cord enters the amp. Route wiring away from signal-carrying components to prevent noise. Do you have an internal picture of this beast? It's been quite a while since I saw the internal layout of one.
Does everyone agree? Or does this need to be handled differently?:scratch2:
I'll try to get some pics now.....hope my batteries are still good.
similost
03-04-2008, 08:09 PM
The fan will be loud in the house.. when music is playing, especially at a dance, you will NEVER hear it... I'd let it be.. I have an Altec that has a fairly noisey fan, and when the sound it on, you can't hear it over the music or the TV.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 08:14 PM
Well, I cannot FIND my batteries, but here are some crappy pics from when i first got it. The inside is now MUCH cleaner.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/vinyldavid/im000660.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/vinyldavid/IM000658.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/vinyldavid/IM000659.jpg
Sorry about the crappy pics. I'll get better ones ASAP, or whenever I find batteries.
Looks like it's had some outputs replaced. Or are those drivers? The cases look like a newer style.
Try running it with the top off and the fan disconnected and see how hot it gets. No relays under the output board?
tooloud62
03-04-2008, 08:24 PM
Hey its a very old Bass Amp. I had one in the late 70s., it died long ago. I still have the G&L 1000 Bass.
By the way, those pictures are making my allergies act up it is so dusty.:D:D:D
I wonder if there is a coupling capacitor that is bad, causing the "thump"...
If you can, lift up the output board and let us see what's behind the "curtain". Careful in there though, those caps will hold a charge for a while.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 08:28 PM
Just found batteries...givin' 'em a quick charge for a photoshoot.
The fan is 115 volt.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 08:33 PM
By the way, those pictures are making my allergies act up it is so dusty.:D:D:D
Heck, I got asthma, and you have NO IDEA how bad it was today working inside that thing.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 08:33 PM
I wonder if there is a coupling capacitor that is bad, causing the "thump"...
If you can, lift up the output board and let us see what's behind the "curtain". Careful in there though, those caps will hold a charge for a while.
Will do! Already vacuumed under there today and I was fine, so I think I will do fine now...
What does the "high-temp" switch do on the front?
Is that a fan control already?
avguytx
03-04-2008, 08:38 PM
You need an air compressor to blow the dust bunnies outta there! :D What's it rated for power wise?
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 08:39 PM
What does the "high-temp" switch do on the front?
Is that a fan control already?
Yeah.....even in the low position it's very annoying...the high position....well, it's BEAST! I always keep it in the low position, and if I ever run it hard (which I did ONCE), it kicks itself into higher RPM's on the fan.
It sounds :D like you just need a new fan then. The bearings on that one are probably worn and noisy. Scratch my speed control idea, since there is already one in there. You could put a dropping resistor inline on the low setting, but I have no idea as to the value that it would require. It would be a ceramic, wirewound type. The fan I have would work, but you need it by Sunday. Are there any electronics surplus stores in your area? They would have what you need. Start going through the phone book or online and find one close.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 08:49 PM
You need an air compressor to blow the dust bunnies outta there! :D What's it rated for power wise?
I almost had to get one...but patience and a Qtip do help....
Straight from PDF manual:
THD: less than 0.05% at 200watts out into 4 ohms. Typically less than 0.03%
120wpc into 8ohms
200wpc into 4 ohms
Slew rate:40v/ms stereo
70 v/ms bridged
10hz to 50kHz, 200wpc into 4ohms, less than 0.1% THD
Dampening factor at 8ohms: 200
at 4ohms, 400
Hum and noise:
100db below rated power, 20hz to 22kHz
:jawdrop: I want to see ANY new amp with those specs that can do that 24/7 for the next 30 years.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 08:50 PM
It sounds :D like you just need a new fan then. The bearings on that one are probably worn and noisy. Scratch my speed control idea, since there is already one in there. You could put a dropping resistor inline on the low setting, but I have no idea as to the value that it would require. It would be a ceramic, wirewound type. The fan I have would work, but you need it by Sunday. Are there any electronics surplus stores in your area? They would have what you need. Start going through the phone book or online and find one close.
I don't need it by Sunday. That's just for home listening. Where I am going to be using it, the SPL's will greatly exceed the fan.
I will try to get it boxed up and sent to you tomorrow. It will probably Thursday though. I can Priority Mail it cheaply. PM me your address if you want me to. Don't worry about money, donate it to AK.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 09:04 PM
I will try to get it boxed up and sent to you tomorrow. It will probably Thursday though. I can Priority Mail it cheaply. PM me your address if you want me to. Don't worry about money, donate it to AK.
As soon as I can get a way to send something to AK, I will be making donations as much as I can. Thanks again!
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 09:12 PM
GOT PICS! So, is it CLEANER?
Here's the transistors that are different from all the others:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/vinyldavid/IM000756.jpg
here it is with the top off:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/vinyldavid/IM000755.jpg
from the back:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/vinyldavid/IM000754.jpg
Under the board:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/vinyldavid/IM000755-1.jpg
closeup of the ?driver borard? for one channel:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/vinyldavid/IM000756-1.jpg
without that board:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/vinyldavid/IM000757.jpg
So, how's she look? I think that it will outlive me.
Damn, look at those big-fat traces on the output board:thmbsp:. Very nice! You're right, not a relay in sight. How much wobble does the fan have?
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 09:20 PM
Oh yeah, just so everyone knows, that thing on my wrist is the scar of a phillips head drill tip that went into my wrist, as I was crawling over a drill.
I am NOT a cutter.
Oh yeah, just so everyone knows, that thing on my wrist is the scar of a phillips head drill tip that went into my wrist, as I was crawling over a drill.
I am NOT a cutter.
Ouch!!:sigh:
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 09:25 PM
Ouch!!:sigh:
yeah. :tears:
I'd like to see a schematic for this thing. That would be a big help. I wonder if Peavey would still have one online?
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 09:38 PM
I'd like to see a schematic for this thing. That would be a big help. I wonder if Peavey would still have one online?
They had the manual....for a newer version, and that's what I have. Lemme see what I can dig up. I think that the one on top might be worn off too much, but I'll take pics.
From what I have been able to find out online, the middle transistors are drivers.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 09:43 PM
I got a PDF of one from 1990, and here's the link:
http://fileshare.eshop.bg/downloadsm/29254/Peavey_CS400.html
the link is a little down the page.
It might help.
Here's a schematic. The download link is at the bottom middle of the page. http://fileshare.eshop.bg/downloadsm/29254/Peavey_CS400.html
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 09:47 PM
Great AK'ers use Google alike.
The schematic is showing a relay.:headscrat
Maybe this was added in later models. I guess you could retrofit one, ala Phase Linear.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 09:52 PM
The schematic is showing a relay.:headscrat
Like I said, that is a 1990 version. This amp has GOTTA be from the seventies.
WOW! Great minds think alike!
The boards look different. If there is a relay(s), it will be on the same board as the outputs. Look between the board and the heatsink. If there is one, it will be hiding in there.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 10:02 PM
The boards look different. If there is a relay(s), it will be on the same board as the outputs. Look between the board and the heatsink. If there is one, it will be hiding in there.
Will Do Tomorrow. Already did all the screws in this think 3 times today...
OH YEAH. The schematic mentions 11 pin (Octal?) Connectors...are these in the power circuit, or are they those 2 round thingies that are on the back near the XLR connectors and when you pull them off you get a lot of pins?
If they are not, this is a completely different schematic than what my amp is.....
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 10:04 PM
Ok, talk to you then.
Thank you for all your help! I really appreciate it.
westend
03-04-2008, 10:20 PM
You can try to clean up the fan and lube the bearing. Remove the fan and make sure any trace of dirt and dust are gone from the blades and case. Remove the decal on the back of the fan and it will expose the bearing and race. I use Marvel Mystery oil but any good, lightweight oil will quiet it down. You only need a drop or two. I spin the blades and let it sit overnight to soak completely. Tap the fan with the bearing faced down to remove excess oil. Replace the decal. If it doesn't stick back down, use some adhesive to put it back on.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 10:22 PM
You can try to clean up the fan and lube the bearing. Remove the fan and make sure any trace of dirt and dust are gone from the blades and case. Remove the decal on the back of the fan and it will expose the bearing and race. I use Marvel Mystery oil but any good, lightweight oil will quiet it down. You only need a drop or two. I spin the blades and let it sit overnight to soak completely. Tap the fan with the bearing faced down to remove excess oil. Replace the decal. If it doesn't stick back down, use some adhesive to put it back on.
I think that going into electric motors is too hard for me at this stage, but I might try it......
Would WD-40 work? That's all I've got.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 10:51 PM
I just brought up some compressed air from the basement and started blowing the amp out, just for laughs, and WOW! There's TONS more dust in here.
Would lubing the fan with WD-40 work?
I cleaned out the fan, and cleaned the blade....I am going to put it back together and see what it does....maybe it'll help.
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 11:10 PM
Just reattached the fan, after a through cleaning...MUCH better. Just fine for pro use, but I would still hear the fan during quiet passages in the music, or at night (usually my stuff is on 24/7.).
I think that the new fan should be PERFECT!
Also, the fan was quieter OUTSIDE the amp than inside, when I tested it both ways.....
vinyldavid
03-04-2008, 11:39 PM
I just realized that this amp made me join AK, I think! I had some problems with the fan and weird noises, and I found AK. Asked a question back in October, and now here I am! WOW!
Fred Sanford
03-05-2008, 05:46 AM
There appears to be built-in crossovers (the removable round cans on the back), do they have any text printed on them? Might be useful at some point.
je
bowtie427ss
03-05-2008, 06:13 AM
Those are just jumpers Fred, the crosover modules cost extra.:D
bowtie427ss
03-05-2008, 06:52 AM
Like I said, that is a 1990 version. This amp has GOTTA be from the seventies.Aside from the model number, i assure you the 1990 model shares little with the 70's model beyond the makers name, it's a very different animal.
David, consider that the 70's vintage CS-400 and CS-800 are really at the ground floor for pro amps of that vintage. If you like what you're hearing, consider that it only gets better as you move up the ladder.
Another method of addressing the fan noise for home use is to install a 240 volt fan in place of the 120 model, just be aware that it won't move enough air in a demanding low impedence pro situation without going back to the 120V fan.
There are many pro amplifiers out there that are regularly passed up and go under the radar that have sonics far surpassing the Peavey's. Interestingly, at this point in time they don't sell for any more than the peavey stuff does.
Now i'm not by any means knocking Peavey, back in the day i used plenty of Peavey gear and in '81 or '82 bought my first brand spankin new CS800 as a junior in high school, it served mainly as a home stereo amp. After that my first couple PA systems were Peavey speakers and amplifiers until i discovered how much better the Soundcraftsmen 5002 and 7502 sounded.
After soundcraftsmen i discovered Ashly. No looking back after hearing an Ashly mosfet, they reach another level in sonics/fidelity. Still ended up trying a new Peavey CS 1200 when they were introduced, lotsa power with refined DDT compression which made them excellent for driving subs without shredding them, DSP was in it's infancy and well outta the reach of us small time sound guys.
AS i got busier with more and better gigs, i was forced to go the Carver PM route, they offered the same power level in a package half the size and 1/3 the weight of the Peavey and Ashly's and sounded equally good until pushed hard. Like so many things in audio it was all about compromize, Carver took me from 3 amp racks weighing 300lbs each to a single rack weighing just about 200lbs, then i learned about the demanding AC requirements of Carver which led me to the QSC MX series which i used up until my last gig about 8 years ago.
Today i'm back with Ashly mosfets in my large home system. I chose the Ashly's 99% because of their sound and 1% because of their cost. They're also built here in NY, and can still be serviced by the factory if the need arises. Fan noise just isn;t an issue here since my amplifiers are located more than 20 feet from my listening position, putting pro amps in a rack or case can also help bring down fan noise to acceptable levels.
Just my .02............................
similost
03-05-2008, 07:24 AM
Excuse my hijack here for just a moment David, but it does relate to pro amps..
Just letting Tom know I am going to be picking up a second Altec amp soon. It's a 9442. I figure run that on my horns, and the 9444 on the LF driver... leave my Tapco where it is on the subs...
I figure noting better than Altec amps on Altec speakers :)
And David, I will be picking that amp up dirt cheap as compaired to what some people are paying for home consumer amps with half the power and sonics.. I'm glad not many out there will even try them.. like I said.. it keeps the prices down :yes:
bowtie427ss
03-05-2008, 08:21 AM
Just letting Tom know I am going to be picking up a second Altec amp soon. It's a 9442. I figure run that on my horns, and the 9444 on the LF driver:thmbsp:
I never had an opportunity to give a good listen to any of the solid state Altec amps, and now i'm at a point where i've spent so much time with mosfets that it's very difficult for me to listen to anything else with the exception of substantial tubes, and those just aren't in my budget these days. I do however have a 9444SA a few notches down on my short list, I'm hoping to eventually assemble an "all Altec" system but for the source, around the 9846's.:D
Russellc
03-05-2008, 11:04 AM
Dont forget the JBL 6230 (75 watts perchannel or so)
JBL 6260 ( 150 watts per channel or so)
Jbl 6290 ( cant remember, 2 or 3 hundred watts or so)
Very fine amps, and run for decades. The 6230 I recently bought just needed all the solder joint around the outputs reflowed, as well as the input jacks reflowed, and a couple small electrolytics replaced. The prices are very low on these amps and once retuned, will run for decades with no problems.
Also dont forget the BGW amps and pre amps, very nice sounding as well, and can be picked up cheap. Dont worry about the "pro amp fittings" just go to guitar center and buy some TRS to RCA or XLR to rca conversion cables, or DIY them your self!
Where else can you get a bullit proof 150 to 250 watt amp for 100 to 250 bucks or so? THIS SECRET WONT LAST LONG!
Russellc
Fred Sanford
03-05-2008, 11:13 AM
Dont forget the JBL 6230 (75 watts perchannel or so)
JBL 6260 ( 150 watts per channel or so)
Jbl 6290 ( cant remember, 2 or 3 hundred watts or so)
Very fine amps, and run for decades. The 6230 I recently bought just needed all the solder joint around the outputs reflowed, as well as the input jacks reflowed, and a couple small electrolytics replaced. The prices are very low on these amps and once retuned, will run for decades with no problems.
Also dont forget the BGW amps and pre amps, very nice sounding as well, and can be picked up cheap. Dont worry about the "pro amp fittings" just go to guitar center and buy some TRS to RCA or XLR to rca conversion cables, or DIY them your self!
Where else can you get a bullit proof 150 to 250 watt amp for 100 to 250 bucks or so? THIS SECRET WONT LAST LONG!
Russellc
The JBL/Urei amps have some issues with some under-spec'd resistors, a minor fix. To me it just means we can get busted ones even cheaper! I've got a 6260, running it 300WPC 4 ohms. 6290 was 300WPC 8ohms.
Weren't some of the Peavey amps closely related to the BGWs?
je
I think this might be the Gordon that requents AK as well, here's the quote on the 62xx series:
Hey, one caveat to those who have these 6260 amps (and will probably apply to the 6230 and 6290 as well):
There are some "power resistors" (1 watt resistors) in the amp, that seem to be a bit under-sized, power-handling wise. I started to have a weird "clicking" distortion out of mine (like the output relay was "dropping out" momentarily on high-power transients), and when I went inside to inspect, I noticed about 4-5 of these resistors that had gotten hot enough to brown the circuit board!
The 6260 is now at a very competant repair tech, to have all those resistors replaced (with 5 watt resistors, spaced off of the board about 1/4" to enhance airflow and miminize heat transfer to the board), and for a general checkout. I'd recommend you all look inside your amps too, to make sure you're not having problems with these "mini-space-heaters"...
Regards,
Gordon.
vinyldavid
03-05-2008, 11:20 AM
Weren't some of the Peavey amps closely related to the BGWs?
je
I think that my Peavey was a OEM BGW.....:yes:
For now, I will stick with what I got, it cost me $5 plus a fuse. When I do some upgrading, I will maybe work a pro amp of a kind mentioned in this thread into the upgrades!
Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys!
bowtie427ss
03-05-2008, 11:28 AM
Weren't some of the Peavey amps closely related to the BGWs?I have stopped parroting the rumour/urban legend for lack of substantive proof.
What i know to be fact is this regarding the relationship between the CS 800 and BGW 750/750A, the circuits in both amps are the direct product of their inventor initially employed by RCA. Nearly identical circuit topology can be found in dozens of amplifiers from different makers during that time period.
Also, i have it on good authority as fact that the sheet metal cabinet parts for both the BGW and Peavey amplifiers of that time period came from a common supplier which would go far to explain the "sameness" between the chassis'.
Consider that the common chassis more or less dictated that the same heatsinks be used for both amps, and it's probably likely that other major components like power tansformers and filter caps were also sourced from the same suppliers.
There are indeed many striking similarities between the two amps as anyone who's had them side by side knows. But, in the end it might have a lot more to do with freakish coincidence than any collaborative connection.
It seems we have a member here who is very familiar with Brian G Wachner, hopefully he'll catch this thread and shed some light.
Also dont forget the BGW amps and pre amps, very nice sounding as well, and can be picked up cheap.Indeed, there's currently a similar pro amp thread going on another board and the consensus that i also agree with is that BGW were pretty much the industry standard pro amp thru the 70's and early 80's, then came Crown's turn.
vinyldavid
03-05-2008, 11:58 PM
Well, I got it hooked up to my JBL 4311's now, and I am listening to the radio. hav not yet played any vinyl through it, but I LOVE IT! I gotta fine tune the gain controls on the amp, so that they are perfect, but WOW! Completely different sound from the Onkyo, too. For some reason, it does not sound as good as it dis when I fed it with the Tascam mixer hmmmm....:scratch2:
Time to try to rescue a Hafler HD-101 pre from a basement!
I can hear the fan at low speed even over the heater going....but only sometimes. It'll get so that I can hear it 24/7, but with a quieter fan, no problems are foreseen.
It still makes a LOUD whump when I turn it on! Luckily, the onkyo does not make any noise at turn on, so the Peavey will prolly be on 24/7, until I can figure out how to correct it, maybe with a added relay?
vinyldavid
03-06-2008, 10:22 AM
Well, I could not add this in my earlier post, BUT, when my alarm went off (RatScahck beanded Sanegan 909 run into Onkyo), the sound was just OK. IN about 5 minutes, everything just opened up, and the sound was absolutely amazing! I REALLY like this now! I think that I am going to be using Pro amps for a long time.
It is abolsutely amazing, how underrated these are. I can still hear the fan noise at night over the heater, but I am getin' used to it, and with the new fan, ti should be nearly silent! (Yes, I am at school, don't worry, just writing about this morning).
saltwater
03-06-2008, 02:21 PM
wow that thing was dirty in the begining! Cleaned up good! Good job david!
Panotaker
03-06-2008, 07:19 PM
I worked at a club back in the 70's that had a couple of those amps and a couple of the 800's too. They sounded real good and filled the giant disco with plenty of sound with no problems. It's amazing how much dirt was in your amp and it still works.
Goodwill_HiFi
03-06-2008, 09:25 PM
The inside is now MUCH cleaner.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/vinyldavid/im000660.jpg
Wow, get a shovel!!! I think that's the dirtiest piece of electronics I've ever seen!
vinyldavid
03-06-2008, 09:28 PM
Wow, get a shovel!!! I think that's the dirtiest piece of electronics I've ever seen!
OH MAN! you think that THAT was DIRTY? When I first got it, the fan had so much s**t in it that it did not work, :yikes: and I pulled out so much of the crap in it.....that's the SEMI-cleaned version. Still worked perfectly, no matter what state of cleanliness. That sucker's a BRUTE.
Fred Sanford
03-07-2008, 05:59 AM
My first job out of school was servicing all of NYC's school sound systems. My company had had the contract since the 1940s. We'd occasionally get a call to go to a school that we hadn't been to in ages, and knew we'd be in for a dustbowl treat. Picture all-tube, floor-to-ceiling racks of Altec or RCA or Dukane or Stromberg tube gear in use every day (dual pre's, multiple power amps, switch banks, signal switch banks, etc.) that hadn't been touched for a decade or more.
Mud (literally) would run out of the bottom of the racks, and we'd get high from the fumes of the aerosol contact cleaners.
Gotta say that was still better than working on the cafeteria systems, though...still have nightmares about those.
je
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