To all the posts describing how to fix the cueing issue of this table...a million thanks:banana:

Not only was I able to fix the cueing problems, I even got a manual from vinyl engine and adjusted the auto start, which never reaches the edge of the record and the auto stop, which always lifts the arm without completing the last song.

With a recently purchased Grado Blue, I'm happy and can now listen without rushing to the table to lift the arm after a side finishes. I love my 1600mk2. 1200mk2 performance with auto features and suspension:banana:

Thanks again and happy listening :music:

I agree 100%. It is the best of both worlds, and a bargain to boot. Congratulations and enjoy! :music:

Thanks Howard,

One thing that bothers me is that when the arm is on it's way back to the rest after playing a record, it sometimes stops mid-way and after a split second continues and finally settles on the rest. Is this a loose gear issue or hardened grease? I have not tried accessing the arm from below as I only removed the platter and top plastic cover to change the rubber belt.

This issue doesn't bother me much and I can live with it but if the gears are getting damaged, it might be a good idea to open her up once more. Are the gears visible from below and do I need to remove the tonearm assembly? I hope it's not that difficult:scratch2:

Dennis

I've heard of issues with the gears cracking -- see the next-to-last photo and the text around it at http://www.theturntablefactory.com/technics.html -- but have had no issues with my 1700Mk2, so I've not taken mine apart to look.

I have ONE question about your Technics SL1600MKII.
Did You Remove The Transport Screws?
The service manual will show you where they are.
They need to be removed so that you can get full sound out of your table.
after you remove them you most likely will have to adjust the suspension. You will need a deep 7MM socket to adjust the four screws on the base.

I've heard of issues with the gears cracking -- see the next-to-last photo and the text around it at http://www.theturntablefactory.com/technics.html -- but have had no issues with my 1700Mk2, so I've not taken mine apart to look.

saw that site too and this prompted me to ask fellow mk2 users if indeed the issues i mentioned are caused by this possible developing cracks. nice table you get there by the way:thmbsp:

I have ONE question about your Technics SL1600MKII.
Did You Remove The Transport Screws?
The service manual will show you where they are.
They need to be removed so that you can get full sound out of your table.
after you remove them you most likely will have to adjust the suspension. You will need a deep 7MM socket to adjust the four screws on the base.

i'll take a look at the service manual after work today. but i doubt it's caused by the transport screws as the suspension works and the table does play music. the arm functions well with only the mid-way "stop over" issue observed.

might take a peek from below and see if i can tighten or grease some gears to remove this problem. grease type suggestions anyone?

might take a peek from below and see if i can tighten or grease some gears to remove this problem. grease type suggestions anyone?
I would look more for the cracked gear syndrome. It's possible that when the tonearm begins it's return that the gear opens just a bit causing the hesitation. Or you maybe lucky and just have some gunked up lube that needs to be removed. I wouldn't put any grease on the gears as it might hinder operation. Maybe a very light coating of white lithium? Remember the lesser the better.

I've heard of issues with the gears cracking -- see the next-to-last photo and the text around it at http://www.theturntablefactory.com/technics.html -- but have had no issues with my 1700Mk2, so I've not taken mine apart to look.

Yep, that's probably it. And the crack separates the teeth slightly apart so when that part of the gear meshes with worm there is a hesitation. Open it up. It's the big gear. You'll probably see the crack. Virtually every 1600 I've seen has had some stress cracks. I've never seen or heard of one cracking all the way through (seems that once the stress is relieved, it stops), but Joel at ttfactory claimed to have. He prevented the problem by embedding a spiral wire in the gear.

I treated one by embedding a iron half way the depth of the gear into the crack a few mm, then pushing the melted displaced plastic on either side back into the crack. Then I did the next few mm and so on. If you do it, stay a good 1/8" away from the teeth. While Joel's method was absolutely foolproof, I can't believe that mine wouldn't hold up with the minimal amount of torque placed on the gear. After all it's only driving the light tonearm, not the platter. It won't solve the hesitation, but it would give you peace of mind regarding the gear further cracking.

Again, though, there are a fair number of members here with 16 and 1700MK2 tables and I've yet to hear of one where the automation has stopped working because the gear cracked all the way through.

I would look more for the cracked gear syndrome. It's possible that when the tonearm begins it's return that the gear opens just a bit causing the hesitation. Or you maybe lucky and just have some gunked up lube that needs to be removed. I wouldn't put any grease on the gears as it might hinder operation. Maybe a very light coating of white lithium? Remember the lesser the better.

finally opened her up again and i have to say....there's so much electronics on this table that i'm just truly amazed they only sold this for U$400-500 back in '79? i cleaned the old gunked up grease and getting some lithium grease from my son's tamiya toolbox and voila, the hesitation's gone. i'm so tempted to clean out the boards and the rest of the table but i backed out and just did minor dusting. had to subscribe to the old cliche "if it ain't broke, let it be lest you destroy a mint sl1600mk2 table!".

Yep, that's probably it. And the crack separates the teeth slightly apart so when that part of the gear meshes with worm there is a hesitation. Open it up. It's the big gear. You'll probably see the crack. Virtually every 1600 I've seen has had some stress cracks. I've never seen or heard of one cracking all the way through (seems that once the stress is relieved, it stops), but Joel at ttfactory claimed to have. He prevented the problem by embedding a spiral wire in the gear.

I treated one by embedding a iron half way the depth of the gear into the crack a few mm, then pushing the melted displaced plastic on either side back into the crack. Then I did the next few mm and so on. If you do it, stay a good 1/8" away from the teeth. While Joel's method was absolutely foolproof, I can't believe that mine wouldn't hold up with the minimal amount of torque placed on the gear. After all it's only driving the light tonearm, not the platter. It won't solve the hesitation, but it would give you peace of mind regarding the gear further cracking.

Again, though, there are a fair number of members here with 16 and 1700MK2 tables and I've yet to hear of one where the automation has stopped working because the gear cracked all the way through.


oh howard, my left hand had to hold of my right as it was already reaching for the iron. very tempting to try your melt them crack method but i had to back out. i have just about 3-4 cracks on the gears and none long enough to impede opertaion. seems the culprit was the gunked up grease and maybe to some extent the little cracks but luckily, the re-greasing fixed the hesitation.

thanks again folks...enjoying my new grado blue and vpi rcm. i'm at a loss if the blue is indeed that good or is it the vpi making the massive improvement...gotta tell you...night and day compared to the shure m447:banana:

dennis

Congratulations, Dennis, and I'm glad you tried just the lube first. I've no doubt that the table will be fine in the long run.

Thanks Howard, the intention was to go for the melt method had the clean-lube approach failed. Luckily, the easy approach fixed the problem. I just love this table and can't see myself going for a manual tt:thmbsp:

Thanks Howard, the intention was to go for the melt method had the clean-lube approach failed. Luckily, the easy approach fixed the problem. I just love this table and can't see myself going for a manual tt:thmbsp:
Glad you went for the easy approach first and it worked out! I always have to remember my Dad's old adage of KISS. Keep it simple stupid! Most of the time it keeps you out of trouble from making something worse than it all ready was. If your TT acts up again with the same problem you know the next step to take. Now enjoy as I'm sure you will!:banana:

Nice one Eagle....KISS :D

Nicer sounding than IIABDFI ( If It Ain'r Broke Don't Fix It ) :D

I'm still really learning a lot from this hobby. Many moons ago, such issues would surely merit a trip to the local tech. Thanks to the internet, fabulous sites like AK and specially all of you guys who take time to contribute and pitch in know hows, tinkering has become "safer" with root problems easily identified.

Thanks again guys and keep 'em coming:banana: