Morse series 96 console stereo

[airdevil85]

I found an older console radio for 10$ at a yard sale... the walnut case was in beautiful condition, I couldnt pass it up... i got it home plugged it in it works but the cord for the tuner is broken and the reight speaker only hums... I got the original scematic an part of the owneres manual with it but, I cant find any information on this stereo... I searched high and low onine and nothing... I even talked to my grandparents they vaugely remember the brand but thats about it... I would really like the get this thing working like new again but, not sure where to start. I am familar with solid state electronics but the tubes I am just lost at lol.... I was thinking about replacing all the components on the inside but would that be really necessary? Is there a way to test each component??

[jaymanaa]

Normally you would need to replace ALL the capacitors, which isn't too bad of a job. Then you will want to have ALL the tubes tested, which someone here will be willing to do (like myself). After you do that, 99 out of 100 of these old consoles will sound wonderful. Don't forget the caps in the tweeter high pass too, and if you want to take it to the next level of High Fidelity, replace the speakers with newer/better ones. Speaker technology has come a ways since then, and it seems as though that was the weak link in old consoles. As far as the dial cord, try to see how it was wound before you remove it, and then you just have to "figure it out". I have some dial cord too, if you need some. I could send it back with your tubes if you want me to test them for you.:thmbsp: BTW, welcome to AK:thmbsp:

[Endspec]

Jay you forgot to say :worthless
I have herd of and seen some of that brand few and far inbetween though, take jay up on his offer on the tubes, It could be you got a bad one in it.

[airdevil85]

That sounds easy enough to replace the caps, Can I use simple ones from like radio shack as long as they are the same specs? or do I have to order special ones?... As far as the tubes go, Should I just replace with all new ones?

It seems like a fun hobby to get into... I love antiques, Most of my house has antiques in it. I found another radio I bought I just gotta go pick it up lol... Again I couldn't pass it up... Its an "philco model 42360"

Im going to go take some pics as we speak lol

[airdevil85]

Excuse my garage... Its a wreck... lol

[YamahaFreak]

Nice find! I myself am knee-deep into an RCA Victor tube stereo console I picked up at a garage sale for $30. I'll agree with Jay and say to replace all of the capacitors. If it has any can caps in it, which look like tall metal cylinders, you can't get new capacitors like those; you'll need to find a combination of capacitors that matches or are close to the values listed on the side of the can. I can also test your tubes, and help you get new ones if they need replacing. Between Jay and I, whoever's closer could probably get them back to you faster. :yes:

[airdevil85]

does it look like something that would be worth restoring?

[YamahaFreak]

does it look like something that would be worth restoring?

It does to me! I've never seen anything from Morse with tubes. I wasn't aware the company was that old! My only experience with the brand is a set of two-way bookshelf speakers from the late 1960's that sound pretty good for their size. This console is something I've never seen or heard of, and it's one of the better-looking consoles I've seen, as far as the furniture factor goes. :yes:

EDIT: The wood looks very glossy, excellent for its age. That alone makes it a great display piece. :music:

[Tom Bavis]

Is there a model number beyond "Series 96"? I looked through the Morse listings in the Sams index - nothing close.

[analog addict]

Excuse my garage... Its a wreck... lol

That's a beauty! And not real big either. Both are checkmarks on the plus side in the debate on saving vs pillaging. Also, I've never seen a Morse either.

And as far as your garage, heh, you have no idea.....:no:...:smoke:

[airdevil85]

Is there a model number beyond "Series 96"? I looked through the Morse listings in the Sams index - nothing close.

Theres not much info that came with it, just part of the owners manual that has the series 96 on it, and theres a tag in the back that has

code:1767

9618 AX

No: 5447

[airdevil85]

also where do I find this "sams index"

[Tom Bavis]

You can get a paper index for Sams folders (they came out every year, and cover back to 1946, so plenty around...)... but I use the program downloaded from Sams website. Much better than the online search they have. You can also download the "Universal Schematic Locater" program (Google it), which includes Riders, Beitmans, and Sams.

[wizargoz]

Beautiful wood- please restore it! Before replacing the caps, try replacing the tubes. My Harman Kardon console had the same problem, but it was bad contacts (DE-OX-It) and dying 12AX7 tubes that were at fault. I had another tube amp and the "hum" followed with the tubes when I tested them there. So it may be a simple and cheap fix.

[airdevil85]

ok... The tubes in it are all hitachi brand

30A5 - 2 tubes

12AX7 - 1 tube (socket says 12AX7 and tube says 12AX7A) wrong tube?? also lights dimmer than the others

12BA6 - 2 tubes

12BE6 - 1 tube

17EW8 - 1 tube


Whats sams website?

[Tube Radio]

Any idea who made the record changer? The 12AX7A will work for a 12AX7. IIRC the record changer is a Voice of Music. Look for the number 857 somewhere on the phono chassis. More than enough reason to keep the console. On the cabinet if the finish is opriginal some Kramer's best Antique Improver found here http://www.kramerize.com/ will work wonders for the finish.

[airdevil85]

ya I think it is BSB it was made in great britian

[dshoaf]

Ok, warning flags are up with this one! If you add up all the filament voltages, you come _really_ close to 110 volts.

I'll suspect this console has no power transformer, done to save cost and improve profit margins. If this is the case, then the chassis has the potential to be hot - as in a shock threat to humans. Please proceed with caution.

I would not recommend connecting anything else to it in any way. I should be operable stand alone and even then only after most of the caps have been replaced.

BTW, this one looks alot like my father's old Philco console from about 1963.

Cheers,

David

[airdevil85]

Where can I get 2 30A5 tubes, 1 12AX7 tube, 2 12BA6 tubes
1 12BE6 tube and 1 17EW8 tube?? I need cheap ones, Im only a mutel teller lol

[airdevil85]

Ok, warning flags are up with this one! If you add up all the filament voltages, you come _really_ close to 110 volts.

I'll suspect this console has no power transformer, done to save cost and improve profit margins. If this is the case, then the chassis has the potential to be hot - as in a shock threat to humans. Please proceed with caution.

I would not recommend connecting anything else to it in any way. I should be operable stand alone and even then only after most of the caps have been replaced.

BTW, this one looks alot like my father's old Philco console from about 1963.

Cheers,

David

lol The chassis is hot... Found that out already... The turntable wasnt turning so I took the table off to see if the motor was turning, touched a piece of metal near the motor... Got one hell of a shock lol... Im not touching that again lol

[Celt]

The changer is a mid sixties BSR. Note the flat 45 adaptor and more modern tonearm profile. I started seeing those around '67.

[Tom Bavis]

Where can I get 2 30A5 tubes, 1 12AX7 tube, 2 12BA6 tubes
1 12BE6 tube and 1 17EW8 tube?? I need cheap ones, Im only a mutel teller lol

Tubes are probably fine... those sound like a Japanese set (never seen 17EW8 and 30A5 in US made stuff). The capacitors may be the gray tubular ones... they are bad, and should be replaced... but I wouldn't put a lot of effort into a hot-chassis set...

[Tube Radio]

If you do plan on restoring this set buy an isolation transformer and keep the console plugged in to it which will eliminate the hot chassis issue.

[YamahaFreak]

Where can I get 2 30A5 tubes, 1 12AX7 tube, 2 12BA6 tubes
1 12BE6 tube and 1 17EW8 tube?? I need cheap ones, Im only a mutel teller lol

You can send the tubes to me to have them tested, and I can probably get you used tubes (cheaper) for any that end up being bad. Most of those tubes, besides the 12AX7, should be under $10 new all together. :yes:

[airdevil85]

Tubes are probably fine... those sound like a Japanese set (never seen 17EW8 and 30A5 in US made stuff). The capacitors may be the gray tubular ones... they are bad, and should be replaced... but I wouldn't put a lot of effort into a hot-chassis set...

I did see the grey tube cap, Just one of them... What would it hurt if it is a hot chassis set? I dont plan on plugging anything into it. just basically want it as a table for the end of my hallway... maybe play the radio once in a while... I really dont need a radio... I have a 300$ sony in my living room thats only a few months old... I just like antiques, Plus I think the old tube sets have better sound compared to the solid state stuff...

[YamahaFreak]

I think Tom is referring to the hot chassis sets, which lack a power transformer, as being worth less than the transformerless ones. In other words, you'd be willing to put more money into a transformer set because it's worth more. Still, between all the capacitors and tubes, you'd probably be looking at less than $50.

[airdevil85]

there is 2 transformers in there... not sure what they do though

[YamahaFreak]

there is 2 transformers in there... not sure what they do though

Small ones, next to each other, near the 30A5 tubes?

[airdevil85]

Small ones, next to each other, near the 30A5 tubes?

Ya... I got the right speaker working too... The one tube was lose... Cleaned the contacts in the socket and it works great now...

[YamahaFreak]

Ya... I got the right speaker working too... The one tube was lose... Cleaned the contacts in the socket and it works great now...

I believe those are the audio output chokes. I've found that in more than a few cases, when I get tube gear, simply taking out all the tubes, cleaning the pins and contacts, and putting the tubes back in solves a lot of problems. :yes:

[YamahaFreak]

If you're curious at all, the 30A5 tubes are your audio output tubes. I've only seen one other piece that used those as outputs, and it was a really old RCA Victrola console. The 12AX7 is the preamplifier tube, and the 12BA6, 12BE6, and 17EW8 are the tuner tubes. Is there not another tube on the amplifier, with a number like 5Y3GT? That would be the rectifier. This stereo may use a selenium rectifier. Those look like a stack of squares accordion-style, and are usually painted a bright color.

[airdevil85]

Electronics can be weird... sometimes the somplest things can fix a lot lol


I didn't see anything like that in there that looked like an accordion but there inst any other tubes that I see in there...

[Celt]

You'll know when a selenium rectifier goes bad. First there'll be a loud hum, followed by a rotten egg smell. :yuck:

[YamahaFreak]

Electronics can be weird... sometimes the somplest things can fix a lot lol


I didn't see anything like that in there that looked like an accordion but there inst any other tubes that I see in there...

Hmm...might be a solid-state rectifier then. I wouldn't worry about it. You said that you got the right speaker working, do both sides work now?

[airdevil85]

yup all up and working

[YamahaFreak]

You'll know when a selenium rectifier goes bad. First there'll be a loud hum, followed by a rotten egg smell. :yuck:

So my boss wasn't cooking eggs that day... :D

[airdevil85]

:lmao:

[YamahaFreak]

Yeah, I was tinkering around with a Bakelite radio. (forgot what brand) I had it on for about two minutes when I started smelling this pungent egg odor. :yuck: Of course, I shut off the radio. No sense in frying anything else! :nono: :D

[airdevil85]

Yeah, I was tinkering around with a Bakelite radio. (forgot what brand) I had it on for about two minutes when I started smelling this pungent egg odor. :yuck: Of course, I shut off the radio. No sense in frying anything else! :nono: :D

is there is place I can get replacement bake-lite knobs for a philco radio?

[YamahaFreak]

is there is place I can get replacement bake-lite knobs for a philco radio?

Many sellers on eBay have used knobs from other radios, but the prices tend to be high. Your best option outside of eBay (and I've had to do this myself!) is to ask around on forums like this one to see if anyone has any laying around. You'd be surprised how many times someone has a part sitting around that you can use. :yes:

[airdevil85]

Many sellers on eBay have used knobs from other radios, but the prices tend to be high. Your best option outside of eBay (and I've had to do this myself!) is to ask around on forums like this one to see if anyone has any laying around. You'd be surprised how many times someone has a part sitting around that you can use. :yes:

I used wax and made a mold and the one i made looks good but, I cant get the colors right, the original ones were like a swirl of light and dark brown

[YamahaFreak]

I used wax and made a mold and the one i made looks good but, I cant get the colors right, the original ones were like a swirl of light and dark brownNot sure what to do about the color. Bakelite came in a wide variety of colors; you might be able to find a set that matches closely to the originals. :thmbsp:

[airdevil85]

well, I molded the knob out of resin and was using paint to make it match but, I cant get it to match... I might just mold 3 more knobs that way i can have 4 like ones lol

[YamahaFreak]

well, I molded the knob out of resin and was using paint to make it match but, I cant get it to match... I might just mold 3 more knobs that way i can have 4 like ones lol

That probably wouldn't look too bad. :)