Repairing Motorboard on Thorens 125

[circus2000]

I've got hold of a Thorens 125 mk 2 but sadly the motorboard has snapped (shipping nightmare...sigh). So I need to repair or replace it.

Upon inspection the break is right next to the plate that straps the main unit on. So probably not possible to add a brace
underneath. Or
a) it would need to be barely 1 cm wide or
b) I would need to chisel out a panel to allow for the plate.
But also there's a slight crack next to the plate at the other end
meaning that'll have been weakened too.

I've a friend with a jigsaw, worktable and a can do attitude (though
he said buy two bits in case the first is messed up). So I see no
reason not to try and purchase a suitable piece of wood or mdf - any
thoughts on whats best?

Someone I spoke to said I should strip everything off the motherboard to make an exact template though I'm wondering if thats nessecary, I've taken all the mesurements on a diagram with front and back marked - and anyway it seems almost exactly symetrical both back to fron and left to right (half a mm in difference).

Maybe there's something I'm missing her but I'd think I can take these diagrams to a hardware store and get a piece of wood the right size and then cut the hole out. Making it match the rest of the plinth aesthetically will surely be the biggest challenge.

My bias is toward getting this fixed ASAP as my house is a TT graveyard and I wanna stop playing stuff on my portable Vestax.

[SaSi]

A picture of the broken board would be useful. If you can take shots of both sides, it would help understand what could be done to salvage this or replicate a new one.

[circus2000]

A picture of the broken board would be useful. If you can take shots of both sides, it would help understand what could be done to salvage this or replicate a new one.

They sure would but I had trouble uploading them at home - hopefully this will be visible.

edit...mmmm no obviously not. Its 50k - dunno. Maybe I'll log in and try again.

[circus2000]

How's that? I don't have any of the underside at the moment but I can say pretty accurately that the metal spur which connects the actual mechanism to the board is RIGHT next to the break - you can even see a bit of the screw in the crack. Thus the problems with a brace underneath as mentioned in the first post.

I was also wondering why the motorboard is a hollow rectangle shape and whether it might not be better if there were contact with the semi oval plates. The way they have a small hole rather indicates that something is meant to be connected to them such as the I have SME tonearm I have to go with this. If that's a stupid question the answer is the parts came together but unconnected so I'm not 100% sure how it ought to look.

I popped into a Builders Depot on the way to work today and the nearest material they had for a replacement was MDF - unfortunately it only comes in sheets about the size of a wall which cost €40.

Anyway thats my story - I'll try and post a pic of the underside later. Any suggestions read with itnerest. Thanks guys.

[SaSi]

It might be that I am dizzy from a full day's work here, but I don't understand the implications of the broken wooden frame to the rest of the TT.

I can't make out if there is damage apart from the wooden frame.

If it was me, I would try to disasemble the frame and check if it can be repaired by glueing a steel blade under the broken part. 1mm thick and 1-3cm wide appears to be enough.

Replacing the frame is an option, but not with MDF as this has to be painted or veneered. You could try high quality plywood of the appropriate thickness. It can be lacquered and made to look just like the original.

[circus2000]

[QUOTE=SaSi;1839200]If it was me, I would try to disasemble the frame and check if it can be repaired by glueing a steel blade under the broken part. 1mm thick and 1-3cm wide appears to be enough.
QUOTE]

Sorry if its unclear, I'll do another photo later. The metal bar connecting the TT to the frame is right next to the break so you couldn't place a metal brace underneath the break.

[circus2000]

Some new pics - showing the udnerside of the break in the motorboard and how the metal plate is right next to the break.

The middle pick I've annotated to show the 3 semi oval metal spurs (marked A B & C) which look like they could be used to connect to the motorboard. As before any suggestions appreciated.

[StyX]

I would make a new wood 'frame' instead of the broken one.
The one you got is not the original one anyway.
http://www.vinylengine.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=5013&full=true
Thats the original casing. (pic from vinylengine)

[piwonka]

it looks like the chassis is fine.
i would make a whole new wooden base for it that the chassis can fit in.

top picture here is an idea.
http://monsite.wanadoo.fr/audiopages/page1.html

[LousyTourist]

what I see there, the A, B, C points, are where the armboard mounts.

Whew, I thought the aluminum plate was broken from your original post.

There are many folks out there that build them if you cannot. I got a nice cherrywood armboard from a fellow on ebay, only cost about $50 IIRC.

BTW, that chassis is totally not stock.

[circus2000]

it looks like the chassis is fine.
i would make a whole new wooden base for it that the chassis can fit in.

top picture here is an idea.
http://monsite.wanadoo.fr/audiopages/page1.html

Those look absollutely lurvely. Where's the drooling emoticon?

but I've been without a decent tuntable too long so I wanna get this one working ASAP.

I think the main problem is I have to buy a huge piece of MDF and I don't know what to do with the rest.

[SaSi]

Don't buy MDF. Buy a 20'' x 40'' piece of plywood. It can be lacquered.

[BrocLuno]

Well it looks like you can glue the broken ends together to start with. I like TiteBond III. Pretty wet going on and it sets up pretty tough over night. I'd use clamps and try to get the broken ends to mesh. Once dry, I'd trace the whole board as a master pattern in 1:1 scale on new piece of select wood.

Next, I'd make a couple back braces out of 1/2 x 1/2 (roughly 1 cm x 1 cm) hardwood and glue it under the existing board outboard of the metal hanger plates. Use some scotch-brite pads to get any finish off the old wood, so the glue will sick well and have at it. Those back braces could be 6" long or as long as there is room? Put it all back together and play it or continue to trouble shoot it while I was building a new custom piece from my master pattern.

That way you have the use of the TT while you do all the tedious finish work to get the replacement piece looking good. Once done, swap them out and you are better off than original. If you get a nice figured piece of wood, it can be a nice addition to the TT :)

[BHamm]

The Thorens TD-125 is well worth restoring. If you only want to get it running, look on ebay under TD125. There is a replacement wood chassis that looks to be well built. I am listening to mine now and it is magic. It requires attention to keep it really top-notch, but is worth the effort. Mine was damaged when I received it also. Good luck with yours.

[Aage]

Hmm, looked under TD 125 no case found. Any other hints?

[jcmjrt]

Hmm, looked under TD 125 no case found. Any other hints?

Thorens plinth

[BHamm]

Try this eBay Item number: 150209383131

Hmm, looked under TD 125 no case found. Any other hints?

[Aage]

Thanks, guys. Yeah, that looks like a good replacement for the original, but nothing to compare to the cabinet on the page linked earlier in this thread.

[piwonka]

i can't go to the analogdept. at work but try this. it might be something.

http://www.theanalogdept.com/bushman's125.htm

[circus2000]

I've been offered an offcut piece of wood of 18mm depth (the original is about 20). Should I say yes please thanks or go dumpster diving for what I spotted on the way home last night....and as its rained all night it'll be good and wet.:thumbsdn:

[Aage]

Please clarify...?

[circus2000]

Please clarify...?

The current motorboard is 21 mm deep, I've been offered a suitable piece of wood thats 18mm. Might this be adequate?