Attached is a photo of the cantilever on a Hitachi HT-550.

Does that cantilever look bent to you (as it does to me!), or is it "supposed" to be this way?

While I'm at it, is the HT-550 a decent table (with a Grado G-1+)?

Is that a catilever? I thought that was a tone arm... I thought a cantilever was what held the stylus in the cart... but please, I am new to tables. Sorry, not much help on the bent looking tone arm, but that does look suspect.

Yup, that's normal for the curved tonearm that Hitachi, and many other manufacturers, offered during that era. Some, including Techincs and Denon, still offer top of the line tables with S - shaped arms.

Here's a recent thread that is quite complementary of that particular table:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=138532

By the way, the part of the table pictured is actually referred to as the tonearm pivot point. The cantilever typically refers to the part of the cartridge that the stylus is attached to.

As stated, that's the tonearm. The cantilever is what the diamond is mounted to--that thin bit of metal that extends down from the cartridge.

I would DISAGREE with the statement that this is normal for a S shaped tonearm. The "S" in S-shaped tonearms is usually mid-arm. Although it's hard to tell with just one photo, this looks like damage to me. It appears to be bent out and downward slightly.

I have that very TT and Im afraid its bent! Its a pity because it a nice sounding table.

You mean the rear segment of the arm beyond the pivot. Yes, that is bent. You might be able to bend it back. Be very careful. If not, it may still work okay.

The G1+ is the equivalent of a Gold

I didn't mean the tone-arm itself or its "S" shape, but the "cantilevered" piece of the arm that the weight is attached to.

Thanks for the responses, and for educating me about where the "cantilever" sits. :thmbsp:

Don't know about that model, but MANY top end arms have that stub at the back for the counterweight isolated vibrationally by a rubber 'pipe' piece that is mostly hidden from view. As they get old, the counterweight section starts to droop. But it doesn't afect the performance.
I'd say you need to examine is very closely to see how it is constructed.

Don't know about that model, but MANY top end arms have that stub at the back for the counterweight isolated vibrationally by a rubber 'pipe' piece that is mostly hidden from view. As they get old, the counterweight section starts to droop. But it doesn't afect the performance.
I'd say you need to examine is very closely to see how it is constructed.

Thats exactly what happened to my Sansui TT, all I had to do was tighten a nut that clamped on the rubber to tighten it back up.

I own and use this model of auto return Hitachi. It's very quiet and the tonearm is good quality. It looks like the tube that holds the counterweight is bent downward.
I would not try to straighten it unless there is a performance issue.

I consider this to be a better turntable than my Technics SL 1300.

May I respectfully disagree here? I don't think that it's bent. That arm uses two different axes for the wand and the counterweight. Look at the pivot bearing, it's definately not perpendicular to the arm. Also there is a lot of depth in that photo, almost like a fisheye lens, that makes it look like the counterweight is bent downward. I'd like to see a side shot of that arm but since it's from the "isoldit" site that probably isn't possible.

May I respectfully disagree here? I don't think that it's bent. That arm uses two different axes for the wand and the counterweight. Look at the pivot bearing, it's definately not perpendicular to the arm. Also there is a lot of depth in that photo, almost like a fisheye lens, that makes it look like the counterweight is bent downward. I'd like to see a side shot of that arm but since it's from the "isoldit" site that probably isn't possible.
By jove, you're right! The auction is still listed on ebay and you can easily see from another photo that it is not bent downward, and rather simply not in line with the front segment of the arm, which is correct for this turntable.

By jove, you're right! The auction is still listed on ....

Item 280233863043

So the tonearm looks right, then, is what you guys are saying?

I just viewed the item, and viewing it carefully, my opinion is that it's inconclusive if it is bent or not. I still think that it is. There's a couple of other things evident in the photos that would support this.

- If you look closely at the tonearm bearing in the closeup photo, it doesn't look at all healthy. Could be the camera angle...

- There appears to be some major scuffs to the counterweight, which would indicate some fairly nasty abuse and knocking about.

- The anti-skate at 0 and the tracking force dial at 2.5 grams indicates that whomever took the picture knows nothing about turntables, and possibly same for former owner.

- All of this combined would justify the story of the appearance that the counterweight shaft is bent.

Even so, I would personally be more afraid of the fact that it's offered by an I-Sold-It e-store, which probably knows absolutely nothing about shipping turntables and packing them properly. If it's not in good shape now, it's even more likely to be damaged by the time you'd get it.

Well, now looking at the other photos, it looks fine to me. On the other hand one could only imagine what it would look like after isoldit shipped it :D, but I assume you'd pick it up?

EDIT: Louie posted the same time as I did. And I disagree--that tiny scuff on the counterweight? Are you kidding? I think it's in very good condition and if you were picking it up you could confirm at that time. But I agree with Louie that I wouldn't trust them to pack it for shipping.

EDIT AGAIN: Okay, I see the scuffs on the weight. Could be dirt, but I see that there is more than I saw originally.
Yes, the bearing screw does look a little funky. It could have been knocked around. But the arm still doesn't look bent to me. If they're not flexible about rejecting it in person if not up to snuff, then I agree that I'd pass.

I'd concur with Howard...the thing to do here is to have an option for rejection if not up to snuff, and/or inspection before the sale if it's a local listing.

All things considered, the appearance of the bearing screw disturbs me more than the appearance of a bent counterweight shaft. One could live with the shaft if it's bent...it's sole purpose is to be a counterweight, which it still could do. However, if the tonearm is flopping around like a mackerel on it's bearings, that's an entirely different matter.

Photos are difficult to work from...they can be deceiving. Something like this - my inclination would be to keep searching for the 'next auction' on such a piece, rather than take a chance. I've had enough bad auction experiences whereas I'm a little wary.

....probably knows absolutely nothing about shipping turntables and packing them properly. If it's not in good shape now, it's even more likely to be damaged by the time you'd get it. I am only remotely interested in this one because it might be considered local to me and a pickup would be a possibility.

Thanks for your, and everyones, thoughts.:thmbsp:

If they're not flexible about rejecting it in person if not up to snuff, then I agree that I'd pass.
The thing to do here is to have an option for rejection if not up to snuff, and/or inspection before the sale if it's a local listing.

If I decided, and was allowed, to inspect the unit before a deal is irreversibly struck, how would I - in layman's terms - inspect the TT, and notably the pivot point/bearings and back end of the tonearm?

Could be lens distortion of the camera due to a very wide angle. But I would not take a chance...

If I decided, and was allowed, to inspect the unit before a deal is irreversibly struck, how would I - in layman's terms - inspect the TT, and notably the pivot point/bearings and back end of the tonearm?
Grasp the arm at the pivot and wiggle it. Now just wiggle the arm pipe. Ideally either shouldn't move much. Even if it does, the bearings can usually be tightened. But the next step will tell you if there is damage.

Move the arm to the platter and back and up and down. It should feel smooth without any gritty feel. Try to get the table as level as you can. Set anti-skate to zero. Balance the arm. Move it to the center of the platter. It should stay there or just slightly drift back. Increase the anti-skate. It should move toward the rest and accelerate as you increase the a.s. If it stops along the way the bearings are probably damaged. If it doesn't move at all, it could be bearing damage or a broken a.s. spring.

Also site that back part of the arm (where the counterweight is) is from the side and make sure it is, in fact, level with the front of the arm and not loose. Try the weight to make sure it moves and that the dial on the front moves independently. And make sure the cueing works. (That "cut" lever).