Hi folks, New to the site . Lots of good info. I have two Sansui units .
First one is a 9090 and the second is a 9090DB. I need a little help. My 9090 took out the left side channel. Woodang was nice enough to get me four 2SC1116a output transistor. He also told me about some mods for the driver board which is 2436-1. I found r-29 to be opened. all the rest showed to be with in spec. My question should I replace all these resistor with 1/4 watt or would 1/2 watt resistor be better. I also have 10 ohm resistor on this board. Should I replace them with 4.7 ohm resistor or just replace the 10 ohm and leave it like it came? Of course I will use Metal Oxide restisitor.
Thanks, Lou
:yes:

Hi folks, New to the site . Lots of good info. I have two Sansui units .
First one is a 9090 and the second is a 9090DB. I need a little help. My 9090 took out the left side channel. Woodang was nice enough to get me four 2SC1116a output transistor. He also told me about some mods for the driver board which is 2436-1. I found r-29 to be opened. all the rest showed to be with in spec. My question should I replace all these resistor with 1/4 watt or would 1/2 watt resistor be better. I also have 10 ohm resistor on this board. Should I replace them with 4.7 ohm resistor or just replace the 10 ohm and leave it like it came? Of course I will use Metal Oxide restisitor.
Thanks, Lou
:yes:

1/4 watt flameproof will be fine, I'd stay with what's supposed to be there for resistor values.
What makes you think you have bad output transistors?
Welcome to AK.
Casey

I have worked on that board many times. The 10 ohm resistor can be replaced(there should be 2) with a Metal Oxide and will fit and look better. I have seen some real ugly installs of this resistor. Go to 1/2 watt resistors, they are just a little larger but dissipate heat better. Heat will derate the resistor if it gets too hot.

This board is a siamese or mirror image of the left and right side corresponding to left and right channels. You can actually put the board in backwards and the amp will still work, but not recommended since you would have to readjust the bias again. The significance of this is if you replace a component on one channel, you should replace it's mirror on the other side or risk a small but real imbalance.

This board operates on the "bleeding edge" and I have seen several modifications to this board from Sansui. There are several fuseable or fuse resistors on this board and they are necessary!!! I have rebuilt several boards that someone had just replaced the fusable resistor with a regular one. The boards will go up in smoke and cascade component failure down stream.

When you troubleshoot carefully look at the resistors. The original fuse resistors have a very rough exterior, usually are blue, and seem to be hard to find. There is one that is 392ohms (I think) that I have to make out of two fuse resistors in parallel. I don't have my notes, but can get them.

Also, these boards have been exposed to a lot of heat in their day. When you are removing the old components, be very careful. The traces will lift if you are not careful. I recommend that the old component be removed by cutting the leads. Then pull the remaining lead (s) straight out after you melt the old solder then clean the solder/trace side with desolder wick.

I have rebuilt several of these boards completely, replacing all of the semiconductors with new ones, and all the resistors with metal film resistors, and all electrolytic capacitors. The result is extremely impressive.

Sorry I have rambled so long, but the Sansui 9090 and 9090DB are a very under rated pair. I have a setup that utilizes a 9090DB that has two pre amp out jacks. I use the second set of jacks to feed pre amp signal from the 9090DB to the power amp imputs of a 9090 and then drive 4 sets of Pioneer SP 903's. That setup provides more power than you need. I just tried it out, but with that setup you can do some bi-amping. It looks great too.

by the way, I can do a repair or upgrade for you if I have scared you off.

Later

You guys are the best. To answer the first question. One of the output shorted right to the case performing a static check.
Guys thanks for the tips on the driver board will let you know how I make out as soon as I get all the parts. Real hard time getting resistor that I need up here in NY. Radio Shack is the only thing left and they are about as useless as socks on a roster.
Guys thanks again.
Lou

You should avoid Radio Shack components. They are generally low quality parts and most often they don't have the proper parts anyway. There are two sites that where you should be looking.

www.mouser.com
www.digikey.com

These guys will have almost anything, and they will sell in low volumes. Their tech support is also great.

www.jameco.com is a New York company and they sell pretty good parts and will special order stuff not in their catalog. Their Customer Support is excellent!!

Get their catalogs, great reading.

By the way, the power transistors for the 9090 are a very common type. The original Sankens can be expensive. Motorola 2N3055's are a straight up subsitute and you can get them for around $2.00. Buy 8 and replace all of your Sankens. That way you will have fresh power transistors and they will be pretty closely matched. The Sankens were made in the days before they could make consistent copies. The new 2N3055 units are almost identical in performance due to modern quality control. Keep the Sankens though, hard core collectors want all OEM components and will pay $$$ for them.

Thanks for the sites. I will get the parts from one of those sites.
If I can ask one more question. The 4.7 ohm resistors. are they 470 ohm or 4ohm. I know that they are not 4.7K. So I am assuming they are 470 ohm.
I am waiting on the bulltin sheet that i ordered.
Thanks
Lou:sigh:

Thanks for the sites. I will get the parts from one of those sites.
If I can ask one more question. The 4.7 ohm resistors. are they 470 ohm or 4ohm. I know that they are not 4.7K. So I am assuming they are 470 ohm.
I am waiting on the bulltin sheet that i ordered.
Thanks
Lou:sigh:

Maybe I don't understand the question, but if the value in the manual is listed as 4.7 ohms, then it's that, just a bit under 5 ohms.
Casey

No it's me. Yes the valve is listed as a 4.7 ohm. When I read the valve with a meter it shows 470 which threw me off. So it is what it state 4.7 ohm which is just shy of 5 ohms.
Thank you:stupid:

I have worked on that board many times. The 10 ohm resistor can be replaced(there should be 2) with a Metal Oxide and will fit and look better. I have seen some real ugly installs of this resistor. Go to 1/2 watt resistors, they are just a little larger but dissipate heat better. Heat will derate the resistor if it gets too hot.

This board is a siamese or mirror image of the left and right side corresponding to left and right channels. You can actually put the board in backwards and the amp will still work, but not recommended since you would have to readjust the bias again. The significance of this is if you replace a component on one channel, you should replace it's mirror on the other side or risk a small but real imbalance.

This board operates on the "bleeding edge" and I have seen several modifications to this board from Sansui. There are several fuseable or fuse resistors on this board and they are necessary!!! I have rebuilt several boards that someone had just replaced the fusable resistor with a regular one. The boards will go up in smoke and cascade component failure down stream.

When you troubleshoot carefully look at the resistors. The original fuse resistors have a very rough exterior, usually are blue, and seem to be hard to find. There is one that is 392ohms (I think) that I have to make out of two fuse resistors in parallel. I don't have my notes, but can get them.

Also, these boards have been exposed to a lot of heat in their day. When you are removing the old components, be very careful. The traces will lift if you are not careful. I recommend that the old component be removed by cutting the leads. Then pull the remaining lead (s) straight out after you melt the old solder then clean the solder/trace side with desolder wick.

I have rebuilt several of these boards completely, replacing all of the semiconductors with new ones, and all the resistors with metal film resistors, and all electrolytic capacitors. The result is extremely impressive.

Sorry I have rambled so long, but the Sansui 9090 and 9090DB are a very under rated pair. I have a setup that utilizes a 9090DB that has two pre amp out jacks. I use the second set of jacks to feed pre amp signal from the 9090DB to the power amp imputs of a 9090 and then drive 4 sets of Pioneer SP 903's. That setup provides more power than you need. I just tried it out, but with that setup you can do some bi-amping. It looks great too.

by the way, I can do a repair or upgrade for you if I have scared you off.

Later


I read your post with some interest. I agree that the fuse resistors in these style of preamp boards were placed for a reason. I have also seen over the years these resistors drift with no visual indicaton of a problem. Do you have a replacement you use that fullfillls the original intent of these components. I have been replacing with 1/2 watt carbon film as my SOP. commnets?

Steve

I found "Fusable Resistors" in the DigiKey Catalog. I will get you the part numbers tonite. I am at work right now, but they are available. There is one value that you have to fabricate from two different other values. I will also provide information.

I primarily work on the 9090 & 9090 db because it is hard to work on these units without spending a lot of time tinkering.

I do have my own stock of resistors and if you need just enough to do one unit, I will sell you the ones you need. If you do repairs yourself you may want to stock up.

alden

I don't think I answered your question. Sorry about that. Substituting regular resistors with fuse resistors can be a workaround, but only if you determine why you have an open fuse resistor in the first place. If there is a bad component up stream and you bypass the fuse resistor, you are putting downstream components at risk. I did not check out the cause once and burned the traces off an irreplaceable F-2436 board. I did patch it up, but I almost destroyed the board.

The old fuse resistors seem to be primitive and crude with with wildly fluctuating values. The new generation are better.

alden007

Thanks for the info.

This is a great site. Thanks for the info. I may take you up on that offer for the resistors. right now we are on two quest. One is finding metal film resistor and I am also looking at another Sansui 9090 to add to my collection. My brother in law may be able to get the restors I need so we are waiting. So far the only thing I see open is R29 which is the 390ohm resistor. The rest test in spec but I would like to change them. After I get this one back on line. I have to opened the 9090DB to fix the protect light. Won't go green but unit is working. I believe that is also a resistor issue.
If I may ask. Doing the Bias should I use two meters? They also show in the manual the fused removed when perfoming the test. Does the fused have to be in place when checking for DC at the speaker end or do you just use the amp meter in place of the fuse?
Must use a lot of caution when working by the fuse holders Hate to discharge those caps..Hehee. Ask Me how I know LOL
Thanks guys
Lou

Lou55:

You can do one channel at a time on the DC Offset and this adjustment is pretty tame. The Bias Adjustment is a little more dicey. The bias adjustment procedure has quite a few issues. Follow the steps I am providing as failure to do so will at some point result in an instant color change in your BVD's. Stay away from adult beverages until this is over!

1. You will be doing this adjustment with the system powered up and there are a lot of hot (thermal/electrical) components on both boards. There will be a TO-220 transistor just to your right (looking from the front) on the power supply board with a 1 inch square flat heat sink on it. If you touch that one you will achieve the referenced color change. There are +64 volts on that one! It is a tight fit and not much room for error.

2. The illustration in the Service Manual is a rough guideline. You need to make a "jig" from a blown fuse-> Find a blown fuse and solder to leads on each end. Make the leads long enough to get you away for the power supply board. Remove the fuse from the holder and put in your test jig. Using DMM leads with clamps on the end hookup the circuit, connect to each of the leads on your jig observing the polarity in your Service Manual. Start with any channel. Warm up the receiver for about 30 minutes before you start.

3. Set your DMM for milliamps, I think you will be working with about 50 ma. Power up and using the correct trimpot, make your adjustments slowly and carefully. Watch your DVM closely. The trimpots/variable resistors used by Sansui were not the best. Do not turn the adjustment screw to either extreme. I have had one of these dead short at that point and fry a couple of Power Transistors. If your readings jump around, I would stop at that point and replace those variable resistors/trim pots with new ones. The settings are very sensitive! I have spent literally hours trying to get these old OEM's set right. My experience is that it is difficult to get the values to go down to the desired setting. If you replace them get some Bourns 25 turn Variable resistors.

4. When set properly, your power transistor heat sink should be fairly warm, but not too hot to touch at idle. Strangely, Sansui provided a thermal cut off switch that would trigger the protection circuit when the heat sink temp got to 150 degrees centigrade!!!!!!! That would really burn you! That switch if stuck open will cause the common situation of the system not going out of protection.

If you go to the Exclusive Sansui and go to a posting about Bias and DC Offset, you will see where someone has posted pictures of the test jig. Necessity is the mother of invention.

aldena007

Help.::thumbsdn: Well I repaired the the driver board and put it back together. Pluged it in, red protector blinked and went green. after much joy crank the volume up and only the right was working.Figuring what do I have to loose I turned the driver board around and tried that and I could also check my work. Pluged it in again,protector went green and only the right side was working. After a few moments of dark clouds and the word failure ringing in my head. I decided to check the protector board and found one of the legs on the relay was gone. Not making contact at all.
So does anyone have or know where I can get this relay.
Thanks Lou

Lou:

If you are talking about the relay on the protector board there is a source of these relays. I just replaced one on my 9090 for the same symptom. I will send you the part number and manufacturer. Getting the old relay off is a time consuming job, but it is worth the trouble. Take your time as you have about 14 pins you will have to desolder.

Alden

Yes Sir thats the one. I took it off already. I have a neet little solder sucker that pulls the solder right off clean. Relay fell right out. If you could get me that part number I would appecate it dearly.
Ok thank you so much.
Lou

Lou:

Your protection relay can be purchased from any vendor that is a distibutor for NTE components. You will see some that don't think NTE is a good source, but I have found them to have excellent products albeit a little pricey.

NTE # R12-1703-24P

Mouser Part # 526-R12-17D#-24P
Jameco can get this for you also, but you will have to call them. It is a special order for them.

I think the relay was less that $20.00 around $16.00 I think.

I have used this part several times and it will line up perfectly on the protector board for the 9090. Like I said earlier, be patient on the removal of the old one. It is a chore, but it will solve your problem.

Good Luck

Alden

Alden.
Thanks for the part numbers. I ordered two from Mouser last night.
I working to get another 9090 from another guy out here so I figured since it needs work I better start stacking up on parts.
I have to take my 9090DB apart to repalce the resistor for the green LED, but Ill wait till I get this one done. This unit I am working now was my first that I bought back in 1976. Been with me a long time. Thanks to all you fine people for taking the time to help me and keep these works of art alive.

Has anyone here ever upgraded to a high watt output transistor. Same type of transistor just able to handle a higher amount output or wattage. (ex. say you have a 125 watt NPN and you replace them with 175 watt NPN.
Although the unit may not produce enough power to produce 175 watts of power, if the unit was played at normal levels would it work?
I am guessing it would but you may loose some quality in the audio. I am also guessing that the higher output power transistors would draw more then the unit can put out and cause components to work harder at high levels.
Just asking.
Lou

Yes Sir thats the one. I took it off already. I have a neet little solder sucker that pulls the solder right off clean. Relay fell right out. If you could get me that part number I would appecate it dearly.
Ok thank you so much.
Lou


What kind solder sucker, who makes it, and were did you get it.

Thanks
RJS

This is the type of solder sucker I use. I got it about 22 years ago from work when I was working as a tech. Still around. try this link.
Lou

http://www.apogeekits.com/desoldering_pump_vtd2.htm

Lou:

In regard to your question on getting higher power transistors for your Sansui. It is tempting, but during the days of the "watt wars" the various manufacturers built more and more powerful (we are talking true RMS continuous here) amps to set themselves apart for each other. In my opinion at around 80W per channel was the point of diminishing returns. After that point the matching of speakers/amp became very critical (now I am talking High Fidelity) to keep down speaker distortion, overdriving, crossover saturation, ringing in the ears, migranes, etc,etc. Also, if you get some speakers that are in good shape that are rated 100-300 watts, hook them up to your Sansui and run them at 1 watt, it is loud! Anything over that will get you a visit by Child Protective Services. OK, enough said on HI FI theory. How the human ear works and the psycho-kinetics of hearing in our brains is a discussion for another day.

Sorry about the digression. In short, it would be a true case of diminishing returns. I have seen Sansui 9090's with the old Sanken Power transistors with a 15(hfe) gain make loud music without any trouble. New 2N3055 power transistors are usually about 75 gain, and they do a great job also. I match up transistors based upon a no load gain test rather than their specs. I also try and match all the power transistors in the set of 8 as close as possible. Pushing the Sansui with higher wattage transistors will push the amp stage harder also. The design of your Sansui was for transistors of that day and putting in more powerful transistors may go beyond design parameters that could cause you some real grief. Motorola makes a "hotter" version of the 3055 that is called 3055M. I have been tempted to try it, but dropped the idea.

If you get your Sansui 9090 back up to near OEM specs with the standard components, you will have all the power you need and sweet sound.

One tool I found that is invaluable is a little transistor tester that comes in a kit form (you put it together) from a guy in Australia. It does all of the testing you need but it has a no load test for gain (hfe). Once you check to see if your component is good, you can check it's gain. I match all my transistor sets based upon gain. Manufacturer specifications only state a desired level of performance. You can buy matched sets, but the charge is way too expensive. Let me know if you are interested in getting the tool. I will send you the url to order it.

Keep your Sansui "stock", and I would be interested in your desoldering tool also.

Alden

I love when you explain things. You do a great job. Thanks.
So I take it that I should not mess with perfection, laymen term ( If it ain't broke don't fix it)
Thanks for the reply, great site.
Lou

Oh I forgot. Yes I am interested in this tool . If you could send me the URL
Here is the URL for my desoldering tool. Same thing I have.

http://www.apogeekits.com/desoldering_pump_vtd2.htm


Thanks
Lou

Guys, the original Omron relays are available so there is no need to use a generic substitute. The 9090 uses a 4MY-02-24DC and the 9090DB uses a 3MY-02-24DC. Digiky carries the 4MY for the 9090.

As far as output transistors, the originals are quite good and in my opinion enhance the value of your gear. I wouldn't just replace them on a whim. If you do need to replace them, the AK consensus is, use OnSemi MJ21194 (NPN) and or MJ21193 (PNP)

There is a ton of information posted on all of these topics. Try doing a search.

- Pete

Oh I forgot. Yes I am interested in this tool . If you could send me the URL
Here is the URL for my desoldering tool. Same thing I have.

http://www.apogeekits.com/desoldering_pump_vtd2.htm


Thanks
Lou

This has been a good thread, the 9090 is a very common receiver and lots need repair after years of service.
I may suggest a differant de-soldering tool, rat {radio} shack has a soldering iron with a suction bulb incorporated into the design that makes it really easy, I far prefer it to the sucker you supplied the url to. Cost was about $12.
They even sell spare tips. Sometimes with the sucker you pictured the joint cools before you can get the trigger pulled on that sucker.
I bought mine based on advice from other AK members on this subject.
Casey:thmbsp:

$10.99



45-Watt Desoldering Iron
Model: 64-2060 | Catalog #: 64-2060

Use the vacuum bulb to remove molten solder with this 45-watt desoldering iron.
Product Rating
4.8 stars
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Online: In stock - Usually ships in 1 - 2 business days




google radio shack...
Casey

This has been a good thread, the 9090 is a very common receiver and lots need repair after years of service.
I may suggest a differant de-soldering tool, rat {radio} shack has a soldering iron with a suction bulb incorporated into the design that makes it really easy, I far prefer it to the sucker you supplied the url to. Cost was about $12.
They even sell spare tips. Sometimes with the sucker you pictured the joint cools before you can get the trigger pulled on that sucker.
I bought mine based on advice from other AK members on this subject.
Casey:thmbsp:

I had a combi tool (see pic) until I got a vacuum pump which I use together with a Weller Station

Thanks for the tips guys.
LB Pete: I went to digikey to look up that omron relay, man what a pain looking it up, Search lookup by part number yielded no results. I had the same issue looking up the resistors when I needed them. Omron stated they had them but they would have to be shipped from the UK. 10 for the relay 15 for shipping.
But as stated they are out there if you need OEM part. Again guys thanks for all the great responses. Will keep all of you informed when we finsh the unit. Colud not have gotten this far without you guys. A big thanks.
Lou
PS: may be picking up another one Sunday( Yea) :banana::yes:

Thanks for the tips guys.
LB Pete: I went to digikey to look up that omron relay, man what a pain looking it up, Search lookup by part number yielded no results. I had the same issue looking up the resistors when I needed them. Omron stated they had them but they would have to be shipped from the UK. 10 for the relay 15 for shipping.
But as stated they are out there if you need OEM part. Again guys thanks for all the great responses. Will keep all of you informed when we finsh the unit. Colud not have gotten this far without you guys. A big thanks.
Lou
PS: may be picking up another one Sunday( Yea) :banana::yes:

I know the feeling....at last count I have 4 9090's, a 9090db, and a 990 {black faced version of the 9090}
Also a skeleton 9090 parts unit.
Casey

Omron MY4-02-DC24 (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=Z2634-ND)at Digikey. 164 in stock $7.40 each.

- Pete

There is one issue that we have gone astray on. The OEM relay for the protection board is a Japanese Source (Unobtainia now). The Sansui part number in the service manual is 1150101 or 1150280 which gets you nothing! If you pop your AM/FM tuner chassis off and see an Omhron, that is a subsitution/replacement relay done stateside. An OEM will be one labeled Taiko RABK-48. That relay is a cleverly designed time bomb. The contacts are of poor quality and fuse together readily. If you see it get rid of it! The Ohmron relay numbers in this thread are good subsitutions, but you must be careful that you get the relay with pins. 9 times out of 10 these distributers will send you the Ohmron with blades designed for a socket!!! (Rats!, I have to send it back). The NTE part number will always get you the relay with pins. I think the NTE relay is really an Ohmron anyway.

aldena007

aldena007, we love new members. We especially love new members with technical expertise and experience. If no one has said it yet, welcome to AudioKarma Exclusively Sansui Forum.

Now, take a look at the top of the page. See the Search function? Open it and type in Omron or better yet 4MY-02-DC24 and see what comes up. There is a wealth of information on this site and it's best to do a little research before making a ridiculous statement like Omron was not an OEM supplier to Sansui and if you see an Omron relay it's a replacement.

These relays have been discussed many many times. We all know that the Sansui part numbers are not available commercially but in some cases, like this relay, they are still available from the OEM supplier. If you read through the specifications provided in the link I posted you will see that it is called out as "through hole" mount. The PC pins are also shown in the picture. The 02 in the Omron part number identifies it as PC mount.

Sansui did use those RABK relays in some models but they are not common in the 9090 or 8080. The NTN relay you mentioned may well be a relabeled Omron but why bother with a mystery relay when you can get the OE relay for $7.40. (By the way, the correct part number for the NTE relay is R12-17D3-24P.)

You also may want to reconsider recommending Motorola 2N3055's. Motorola sold their semiconductor division years ago. It's now OnSemi. The 2N3055s are old old technology. They don't hold a candle to the OnSemi MJ21194. Again, don't take my word for it, do a search and see what this site holds.

- Pete

:yes: Will we got another one. Yes another work of art 9090. Pots need a little cleaning but everything works. I think someone did a jump on te rotary switch cause the tunner light stay on when you go to aux but other then that sound great.
So by Wednesday I should have the relays for my first unit and hopefully be back on line.
Will keep you guys posted.
Lou:banana:

Folks:

My apologies for giving out some information and opinions that contained incorrect fact. I appreciate LBPete pointing this out. I am extremely happy to have found a site like AudioKarma that does have straight and accurate information on the area of legacy audio which is my passion. I don't want to be guilty of giving bad information out to others looking for good info.

Lou55, I had a typo in the NTE number I gave you and if that results in the wrong part going to you, I will buy you one to make that good.

Congrats on getting another 9090 albeit the lighting issue. I have seen the backlight hotwired more than once. Not sure why, it really detracts from the appeal of the blacked out face when other imputs are in use. The switch is probably bad and they are hard to find. I am working of a nice fix for the rotory switches. I will let you know how it goes.

aldena007

Folks:

My apologies for giving out some information and opinions that contained incorrect fact. I appreciate LBPete pointing this out. I am extremely happy to have found a site like AudioKarma that does have straight and accurate information on the area of legacy audio which is my passion. I don't want to be guilty of giving bad information out to others looking for good info.

Lou55, I had a typo in the NTE number I gave you and if that results in the wrong part going to you, I will buy you one to make that good.

Congrats on getting another 9090 albeit the lighting issue. I have seen the backlight hotwired more than once. Not sure why, it really detracts from the appeal of the blacked out face when other imputs are in use. The switch is probably bad and they are hard to find. I am working of a nice fix for the rotory switches. I will let you know how it goes.

aldena007


Cool, those selector switches are a PITA, I like the rejumper lighting mod, it keeps the face lit up when using other that tuner functions and the unit is quite attractive all lit up. Keep us posted on that repair, and welcome to our little bit of paradise.
Casey

I am working of a nice fix for the rotory switches. I will let you know how it goes.

aldena007
Otherwise this is a very simple fix to get dial light all the time LINK (http://audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=597906&postcount=3)

aldena007.
No need, I figured it was a typo since the# and 3 are on the same key. The relay number that LB pete posted is the relays that I ordered but with the number 3. Had a bit of a problem find the relay on the Digikey site but LBPete showed me the way. So next order will be the Omron relay. The NTE should be here by wednesday.
You guys are real gentlemen. It's an honnor to be a member of this site. Thanks:thmbsp:

Lou

Otherwise this is a very simple fix to get dial light all the time LINK (http://audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=597906&postcount=3)

My 9090db must be a different version. On that plug (labeled "b" on the board) I have a wire in every socket, I think I may try and just jump the red wire over with the other....

Maybe Sansui decided to feed another part of the tuner with that 6V in their later version?

WHOA. Stop. Don't jump anything. The 9090DB has a completely different wiring loom. Nothing from the 9090 carries over to the 9090DB. Besides, unlike the 9090, the dial lights on the 9090DB stay on for all functions. If they are out you have an entirely different problem.

- Pete

:banana: Well we finshed or 9090 today and all went well. Had a lot of fun doing the Bias since those pots are so touchy but I did find that the Mili Amp on the driver board were at 20 rather then 50 Mili Amp. I made a tool for checking the mili amps which worked out well. I did not want to probe the fuse holder with just the meter ends so I took a old style automotive breaker, Took it apart and soldered two leads to it. Then put two leads for the meter. Worked like a charm. The NTE relay was a breeze to put in and fit perfect. Did all my setting and cleaned all the switches then put it into service. Seems to have a lot more power. Volume pot is not even at a quarter and it;s loud and clean. I am going to post the picture of the tool I made in case anyone want to make one.
All I have to do now is find some 7 volt bulbs to replace a few that are burnt out. Has anyone ever replace these bulbs with LED's?
I am going to also post pictures of my three units on the site.
Guys thanks you all for the help. Could not have gotten back on line with out you guys.
Thanks
Lou

96653

All I have to do now is find some 7 volt bulbs to replace a few that are burnt out.
Our AK member Dave's site is the place for bulbs. LINK (http://home.earthlink.net/~dwojo/index.html)

Our AK member Dave's site is the place for bulbs. LINK (http://home.earthlink.net/~dwojo/index.html)

Dave is the light guru.... he also has the small bulbs for the power meters, may want to replace those while you're into everything. I had 2 burned out, and while replacing the others, the leads snapped off, I doubt they would have lasted much longer.

Our AK member Dave's site is the place for bulbs. LINK (http://home.earthlink.net/~dwojo/index.html)

If Dave can't help with the fuse lamps go to Vetco in Bellevue WA.
Google it...they have em.
Casey

OK thanks for the tip. Just got done with the 9090DB. Had to replace te 1.5 K resistor on the protector board so the green LED would work. Unit was clean on the inside. Looked like it was brand new. Nice to work on .
Ok thanks for the tip
Lou

I need clear photos of the duplex (front and back side) plate f-2436, therefore mine 9090 returned fix from it without the same one. The technician dad and the equipment was returned lacking the part. For the project of sansui, they are some doubts. debtor.

It's a little hard to understand what you are asking. You need pictures of both sides of the F-2436 board? A technician lost it?

Several variations of that driver board were used during the production run of the 9090. They are not directly interchangeable. This thread (http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=89301&highlight=9090+driver+board)outlines many of the differences.

- Pete

I need clear photos of the duplex (front and back side) plate f-2436, therefore mine 9090 returned fix from it without the same one. The technician dad and the equipment was returned lacking the part. For the project of sansui, they are some doubts. debtor.

I have sent you a PM, you have been resurrecting several old threads and seeking help.
The members can probably help you, but you must post your own new thread.
Casey