My new reel to reel doesn't work. I put it on play and it moves in fast forward. Also the metal tabs that push the tape against the head need to be manually pushed forward and the capstan doesn't touch the tape. Any suggestions? I already took it apart today and cleaned all the rollers and belts.

Anyone?

Common problem. The mechanicals need cleaning and lubrication. One of the two here is in exactly the same boat.

Common problem. The mechanicals need cleaning and lubrication. One of the two here is in exactly the same boat.

So I need to take it apart and clean it. What type of lubricant should be used?

After you have the faceplate off, oil all pivot points on this arm showed in the picture below with sewing machine oil or gun-oil.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/cb5531f2.jpg

After you have the faceplate off, oil all pivot points on this arm showed in the picture below with sewing machine oil or gun-oil.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/cb5531f2.jpg

That's exactly where I have been having the problem. There are two metal wires on the far end opposite that of the capstan and flywheel. One moves back and forth when the switch is moved into position and the other is just attached on one end to chassis and on the other end to nothing. I am convinced there is a piece missing or something.

Do you mean the switch for record functions ?

Do you mean the switch for record functions ?

The one moves when I put it into the play mode, I am not sure about record.

So you think it's more then the linkage preventing it from playing correctly ?

So you think it's more then the linkage preventing it from playing correctly ?

I think it may be. There are some heavy guage wires in there that look like they should do something but really seem to not do anything. I wish I had a photo of what it was supposed to look like right where these things are.

It's been awhile since I had a 355 apart and no inside pictures.
Checked the service manual but doesn't show much.
Did you repair the gummed up linkage or ?

My TC 666 had the same problem when I got it. The pivot to the arm that the pinch roller is mounted to was seized. I had to take the machine apart and remove the arm from the pin. It was seized pretty good, but once I finally got it apart, I shot some oil in there and then it was good to go. The pivot on mine looks like the image that Vintage TX posted. I'll bet that's your problem. I think the metal of the arm and the pin are not compatible and react with each other causing corrosion over time.

My TC 666 had the same problem when I got it. The pivot to the arm that the pinch roller is mounted to was seized. I had to take the machine apart and remove the arm from the pin. It was seized pretty good, but once I finally got it apart, I shot some oil in there and then it was good to go. The pivot on mine looks like the image that Vintage TX posted. I'll bet that's your problem. I think the metal of the arm and the pin are not compatible and react with each other causing corrosion over time.

I can't get the cover plate off. I was able to remove two of the four screws, but two won't budge and they are starting to become stripped.

Any luck with taking it apart or do you need advice ?

Any luck with taking it apart or do you need advice ?

Any ideas on how to get those screws off would be great. I am worried about stripping them further. I also tried a pair of needle nose around the head with no success. The screws are too soft a metal.

Do you mean the screws for the head assembly plate ?

I hope not, because I was going to recommend an inpact driver for the stuck screws. I wouldn't want to use it near the head stack though.
Good to see you around again Rolf.

http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/000723.php

To get stubborn screw out, sometimes you can use a diagonal cutters. Cutters with good tips can bite into the head of the screw and get enough grip to turn it.
You need to take the arm off it's pivot, and clean out the old gummed up grease with alcohol, then re-lube it with light weight machine oil. Not 3 in 1, it gets gummed up.

Thanks Strawman, been a busy man here.
About the stubborn screws, check if you can use a plier to get them loose.
They are metric so just invest in some new ones from the hardware store.

Thanks folks. I will give it a go sometime over the weekend. I have way too many projects going right now.

Ignore my other post, just found out why yours doesn't work.
Any luck with those stubborn screws ?

I got the screws off and I am about to toss this machine. Tons of little pieces taken off and tons of cleaning and lubricating and no luck. I have reached that point and I usually don't reach it with anything. I will save my money and buy a better machine at some point. Anyone have any suggestions? I would prefer a nice deck with wood sides and one that usually just needs a good cleaning and perhaps new belts.

Sorry to hear that.
Check out Akai GX-4000 D, 4-track, 2 channel stereo, speed: 3-3/4 and 7-1/2. They have great sound, easy functions and less trouble.
Look for a low hour unit and most important part, the speed-sleeve has to be included.

or if you prefer Teac (3 motors) A-2300, A-3300 models, check for head-wear and of course all functions tested before buying is the best way.:thmbsp:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/mhardy6647/DSCN5751.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/mhardy6647/DSCN5743.jpg

...this one was on the scrap metal pile at the town dump. it does work, that's about as far as I've gotten with it...

Sorry to hear that.
Check out Akai GX-4000 D, 4-track, 2 channel stereo, speed: 3-3/4 and 7-1/2. They have great sound, easy functions and less trouble.
Look for a low hour unit and most important part, the speed-sleeve has to be included.

or if you prefer Teac (3 motors) A-2300, A-3300 models, check for head-wear and of course all functions tested before buying is the best way.:thmbsp:

I agree Teac's are great machines. I own a A-2300S and they are very gentle on your tapes. The Teac A series only uses one drive belt and they are very easy to service, plus they have real wood sides and aluminum face plates.

In general:
Teac still has many parts available. Technics has a few. Pioneer has a few. Sony and Akai have none. Stay away from any deck that uses a lever to put it into play, fast forward, rewind, etc. They are more trouble prone and have rubber idler wheels inside that are no longer available. Look for a deck with push button switches that operate the transport.

In general:
Teac still has many parts available. Technics has a few. Pioneer has a few. Sony and Akai have none. Stay away from any deck that uses a lever to put it into play, fast forward, rewind, etc. They are more trouble prone and have rubber idler wheels inside that are no longer available. Look for a deck with push button switches that operate the transport.

That's great information. How about Tandburg or Roberts?

Roberts were made by Akai.
Tandberg were notoriously unreliable when new. Nice looking and sounding decks, though.

Roberts were made by Akai.
Tandberg were notoriously unreliable when new. Nice looking and sounding decks, though.

Thanks.

I went back under the hood this afternoon and I am now convinced that someone was inside and didn't know what the heck they were doing. While I don't have a service manual yet, it is very obvious that certain things had been put back together absolutely the wrong way and I noticed a few stripped screws I never touched. Nothing like blindly trying to repair someone else's mistakes.