1060 Integrated - Whaddaya Think?

[greybeige]

What do you think of a small system with a 1060 integrated matched with a 104 tuner?

What do you think of the 1060? How hard are replacement parts to come by? For example, replacing the main power on/off switch and stuff like that?

[Brian]

The 1060 is a great integrated and IMHO the best in that format from Marantz. The 104 is a budget tuner but using a decent antenna will do very nicely. We sold a lot of these pairings as alternatives to receivers and they were as good and better sounding as the receivers you could then buy in the same price range. As for parts, I do not own either so do not know about availablilty.

[Oerets]

I echo Brian's post in that if they are anything like the 1070 you will be pleased.

Had one (1070/SS T220)since 1978 and very HAPPY with it!:thmbsp:

Are you thinking of getting them or do you have them now?

The power switch can become sticky over time, easy fix.
But sometime letting the button snap or pop out when turning it off will clean out some of the dirt.



Barney

[ejman]

The 1060 is a wonderful amplifier, very good Marantz 2 martini sound. I have one with original Advents and a Dual 1219/Shure M91 ed and the sound is great. I haven't had to do anything to it so I don't know about parts but I understand there is nothing exotic or unobtanium in there

[Arkay]

I have a couple of 1060s around. Very nice-sounding little amplifiers (and not so little on sound, come to think of it!). There have been threads here in the past which suggested that Marantz may have put some much higher-quality pre-amp stages that they had overstock of, into the 1060s, making them intrinsically better-built and better-sounding than their position in the power hierarchy would suggest. Whether that is true, or the audio version of an urban legend, I'm not sure, but they do sound nice. Some people like to use them as pre-amp only, and route the sound through a more powerful power amp stage.

As for getting replacement parts, I don't know about elsewhere, but here (Hong Kong) I think I see more of the 1060 than any other Marantz integrated, by a decent margin, so they aren't rare and things like knobs should be available. Internal parts like caps and transistors shouldn't be any problem, either. There is no "unobtanium" inside.

A 104 + 1060 would probably be the "ideal" lower-end/affordable combination, when it comes to vintage Marantz SS. Not their absolute best, but above what you could normally get for the same money, and not bad at all.

[ecluser]

I echo Brian's post in that if they are anything like the 1070 you will be pleased.

Had one (1070/SS T220)since 1978 and very HAPPY with it!:thmbsp:



The 1070 is direct coupled, but the 1060 is cap coupled at the output.

I would never change my 1070 for a 1060.

[SB Marantz]

You don't have to change it, just buy the 1060 to add to your collection. ;-)

[mhardy6647]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/mhardy6647/P1030127.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/mhardy6647/M1060.jpg

[ecluser]

You don't have to change it, just buy the 1060 to add to your collection. ;-)

Thank you! I've passed the message to my wife... She said I am under bad influences and I should rather make a clean-up!

You're right! Both are collectible.

[glen65]

What do you think of a small system with a 1060 integrated matched with a 104 tuner?

What do you think of the 1060? How hard are replacement parts to come by? For example, replacing the main power on/off switch and stuff like that?

If you ever have to recap the unit you won’t find a “new” replacement
for the 4700uf 80v main cap that’s 2 inches in diameter. The physical
size with that value and rating is smaller now. However there is an unused set of holes drilled in the same area going from front to back, drilled closer together so a smaller clamp could be used.

[SB Marantz]

Thank you! I've passed the message to my wife... She said I am under bad influences and I should rather make a clean-up!

You're right! Both are collectible.


My wife never makes a problem of my audio hobby and i have a room full of it upstairs! :D:D

Downstairs are only 2 sets of pre / power combinations present. :smoke:

[hellhound94]

The Marantz Model 1060 can definitely be considered a genuine piece of classic audio equipment in anybody's book.

[SB Marantz]

Build quality sure is excellent! :smoke:

[xoaphexox]

The 1060 is not only a sweet looking and sweet sounding integrated amp, it's easy to restore and upgrade.

Definitely a keeper!

[bikehorn]

I love my 1040. You should not think twice about it. That amp will make you happy.

[greybeige]

Got my hands on a 1060 and it cost me about $85 including shipping. Since I'm considering this (along with a 104 tuner) as a first little project, it's OK that it isn't "minty" and that it doesn't work like new.

Definitely it doesn't work like new because when powered up, the left channel pops when engaged and after a few seconds starts making those snap crackle pop frying bacon sounds that we all hate. It looks like I'll get my wish to get into the guts. Probably the output transistor? Works a while, then starts the noise, and has a lower volume level than the right channel.

What guidance do y'all have? Looks like I'll need that service manual, parts list, and schematic after all!

[xoaphexox]

Congratulations, that is going to be a very sweet little amp.

The first thing I would do is give the switches and controls a shot of deoxit and work them over to eliminate the possiblity of your issue stemming from dirty controls.

If you still get the same issue, try separating the pre/main connected jumpers in the back of the unit and use the pre and power amps separately to narrow down the problem to one part of the amp.

If the issue is in the preamp it should be a pretty straightforward fix. The boards are easy to get to and the parts readily available. The power amp board is more difficult to get to - you will probably have to cut the wires that connect the driver to the coupling caps. Might want to take a photo with a digicam before you do this so you have a reference in case you forget which wires went where.

Start by narrowing the issue to the pre or power amps and then let us know what's up!

If you need a PDF of the service manual I can upload one to my FTP for you tomorrow evening.

Here is a link to an old eBay auction for a restored 1060 that has some good photos of the internals: Restored Marantz 1060 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Marantz-1060-Integrated-Amplifier_W0QQitemZ160266158920QQihZ006QQcategoryZ 73369QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

[SixCats!]

Hi Gray,

Congrats on your getting a MARANTZ 1060. I have to echo what xoap said.
Get yourself some DE-OXIT and "go to town" on all the switches,buttons, etc.
WORK all the switches (back and forth/in and out) SEVERAL times per switch so the DE-OXIT can do it's job. Several years ago, I purchase a MARANTZ 1060 at the Goodwill for forty dollars. My unit also made all kinds of weird noise as well as one channel not working correctly. Well, I got the unit home and DE-OXIT the unit & worked the switches and guess what ?
Problem SOLVED! The unit has worked beautifully ever since!
I hadn't used the 1060 for some time until recently. Now...I use the 1060 as a PHONO AMP with my little PILOT AA-903 (EL84) Mono Integrated Amp and the results sounds BEAUTIFUL! Good luck with your 1060.

Regards,
SixCats!

[greybeige]

Here's what it does: push the power ON and immediately get a sharp POP in the left channel followed by several seconds of a sound like sandpaper slowly swishing across granite. A few more sharp, though not as loud, POPs will occur during this time. Then all gets quiet. If there's music playing, the left channel does all these shenanigans and the left channel is not as loud as the right.

Then here's the wierdest thing...turn OFF the power and still the noise, the swishing, and the music continues through the headphones, gradually waning away over a minute or so until quiet.

Sound like anything you've seen before?

I isolated the preamp out into another receiver's AUX inputs and all sounded great. I don't have any way to get feed into the MAIN IN of the 1060 at the moment.

[willyrover]

Do any capacitors look leaky or expanded on the amplifier board?

The part about music continuing after power off is normal. The amp is running off the reserves in the big capacitors.

[greybeige]

All 3 of the caps look fine. Don't know what leaky looks like but none are expanded, have anything unusual about them from either above or below. If I tap the amp board lightly it will generate a little scratching noise. I thought about taking the amp/amp board off but it was more involved with tight wiring connections than I realized so I put it back on. Could be some faulty solders, perhaps. No components that I can see look fried or like they've overheated. But I can't see everything on the amp board that clearly without removing it.

[xoaphexox]

Since tapping the amp board seems to exacerbate the problem, the first thing I would try (besides the previously mentioned deoxit) would be resoldering the wires between boards. Cold joints can certainly exhibit this type of behavior.

From what you said in your previous post, it sounds like the preamp board is fine. As you mentioned, the driver board is the hardest board to get out of the unit to work on and will require unsoldering the wires connecting it to the coupling capacitors to remove fully.

If it's not a cold joint it sounds like a bad transistor/capacitor on the driver board.

https://home.comcast.net/~devanymarino/1060_1.jpg

[ecluser]

Did you clean the four trim pots on the power amp board?

[greybeige]

I really haven't done much to the amp board yet, tho I intend to. It is pretty dirty. Where/which are the pots? Are they the 4 white plastic-looking jobbies on the top edge of the board? In the picture above, they are on the leading edge of the board. I didn't realize they were pots, though they look like the only likely possibility. To clean them do you have to rotate them as you do volume and balance pots?

[ecluser]

Yes, the four white plastic....

Yes, spray some contact cleaner and rotate them like any other pots.

The pots closer to the middle of the board are R723 and R724. Without scope you can adjust them as follow:

Testing condition, NO input signal, Volume at minimum. With or without speaker is not important.

Secure the negative probe of your voltmeter on the chassis. Put your voltmeter in high (at least 100V) DC volt range, measure the voltage at point J709 (or J710, this is the same voltage) with the positive probe. Put the positive probe at point J715, adjust R723 to have exactly half the voltage measured at point J709. Put the positive probe at point J716, adjust R724 as above.

The two ouside pots R729 and R730, are the Bias trim pots. Secure the negative probe at point J717 and put the positive probe at point J713. Put your meter in the lowest DC Volt range you have and adjust R729 to read 15mV. For the other channel, put the negative probe at J718, positive probe at J714, adjust R730 for 15mV.

BTW, make sure the Pre Out and Main In jacks are clean. Clean them with contact cleaner and work the jumper in and out.