To me they seem odd and misplaced? If they are not real how do I find replacements? It´s the bigger bass and treble knobs, any other model(s) who have the same ones?

Had a hard time finding any decent photos where you could see how the original ones should look. Finally I did and these are not real. So the question now is, how do I find a pair of real ones?
Any other model with these in common, maybe someone here is sitting on it?

The Pioneer Parts website lists different parts for the model, and if you follow the link for a part, you'll get a list of other models that used that part.
http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/model.asp?modelNum=SX-1050

Those are not original Pioneer Sx-1050 knobs. The knobs should be the same on the 950 & 1250. That web link is a great resource.

I have had no luck on the Pioneer site for those knobs(out of stock permantly?) but I was able to find them on the oftened mentioned dreaded(lol) auction site at a reasonable price-good luck.

I have had no luck on the Pioneer site for those knobs(out of stock permantly?) but I was able to find them on the oftened mentioned dreaded(lol) auction site at a reasonable price-good luck.

I tried searching there before but had no luck, was it some kind of cross-reference? Do you have a URL?

I do not understand why there´s four different knobs for treble and bass. They look the same to me but if they aren´t how do I know that the 10hz knob is really the 10hz knob and not the 20khz???? Two of the knobs I have look original but which ones are they really?

Ok, they are the same at least so I´ve heard now. Unfortunately it looks like the switch is damaged as well. The first one is all pressed together, what to do?

Ok, they are the same at least so I´ve heard now. Unfortunately it looks like the switch is damaged as well. The first one is all pressed together, what to do?
You should be able to use a thin screwdriver or putty knife and open up the slot, but not to much or the knob won't fit. If you open it up too much you can gently squeeze smaller till it fits.

Move that aluminum a little as possible. It only wants to be left alone or it could break. So when you try to open the gap do it with something that if you slip you do not:
1) gouge the faceplate of the 1050
2) open the gap so far that it needs to be closed with force to install a knob.

Extra flexing of the aluminum will weaken it very quickly.

Move that aluminum a little as possible. It only wants to be left alone or it could break. So when you try to open the gap do it with something that if you slip you do not:
1) gouge the faceplate of the 1050
2) open the gap so far that it needs to be closed with force to install a knob.

Cryptical, and that something is...?
Maybe the switch is available for sale somewhere? I´ve seen the switch for these knobs to a sx-980 on ebay but maybe not the same?

Cryptical, and that something is...?


A small screwdriver or a dull knife. Be very, very careful, it is real easy to break off one half of that split shaft. Actually, that shaft will still hold a knob as it is, maybe it should just stay squeezed together.:scratch2:

How about working a folded piece of sandpaper or a thin file (like a fingernail file) in there and widening it that way?

As for those knobs, they are definitely NOT original: I have an unmolested SX-1050 sitting a few feet away from me, and all of those knobs on it are just like the ones on the SX-950 and the SX-1250 nearby: they have many flattened panes around the side. That is, they are not smooth cylinders, but have a polygonal cross-section.

So do the knobs on the SC-1010, but they are different (more and smaller groove-like things around them, instead of the fewer and wider flat surfaces on the other models).

The only real similarity to the knobs in your pic is the groove running around the circumference, hear the base of the knob. The originals do have a similar groove there.

How about working a folded piece of sandpaper or a thin file (like a fingernail file) in there and widening it that way?



You don't want to remove material, straightening them out would be proper, but he'll be running the risk of breaking off one half of the split shaft.

I've been able to straighten out some of these tabs before, but as warned by Mr Tarior, Please do be careful. I've learned the lesson the hard way.

The last time I broke one I was amazed at how little extra motion it took to actually break the tab from the shaft.

Here's what you can do... Install something OVER the shaft that will prohibit too much travel of the tab that would cause it to break. You need to protect it in case the thin screwdriver or blade slips in too far. And while you're at it, protect the faceplate as well.

I would lean toward using a butter knife instead of a screwdriver. What I am trying to convey is that if the device you use gets wider and wider if the device is pushed in too far the tabs may be spread too far and...

So a thin for the full width, such as a butter knife would be my choice of the two tools mentioned.

sbparks said what we are trying to avoid. I was amazed at how little extra motion it took to actually break the tab from the shaft. You only want to move the tabs apart a bit. No more than needed.

Any screwdriver, even the little ones that come with cartridges are too wide after the tip and will break the tab off the shaft. A pocket knife also has a pretty good V to the blade that may be too much for the aluminum.

small screwdriver..it's a piece of cake the taper on the blade is enough just pushe it slowly in and your good to go

SX1250 may be the same. I have a SX1050 also(I have used them and believe thay are the same). I just went to ebay,selected consumer electronics and typed in pioneer knobs in the "find" area and came up with more than one seller-good luck!

Good grief...I have to open on those split knurled pot shafts every day.

Use a small screwdriver, go very slowly and carefully. That metal is cheap, brittle stuff. If you're careful you shouldn't have a problem. I sure as hell would not replace it just because the knurled section has been compressed. It's a way-common thing.

If you're afriad to expand it with a knife or tool, why not just wrap some tape around the shaft if the knob won't stay on tightly?

Do you just need two knobs?

How about working a folded piece of sandpaper or a thin file (like a fingernail file) in there and widening it that way?
...

You don't want to remove material, straightening them out would be proper, but he'll be running the risk of breaking off one half of the split shaft.


OOPS! I misunderstood what the problem was. Clear now; sorry. Of course, gently inserting something to separate the two halves of the shaft is what is needed.

[Why does that sound almost obscene?]

So, do you need some knob covers? I've got a couple of extra ones from when I restored my SX-1250....Let me know.