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tim614
10-08-2008, 12:23 PM
i need some advice on what punch kit to get, im taking the next step on diy .

ducati_EL34
10-08-2008, 12:38 PM
i need some advice on what punch kit to get, im taking the next step on diy .

Harbor Freight has a punch set, that has the correct sizes for DIY tube chassis construction. I have one, and I also have the large uni-bits.

Tom Bavis
10-08-2008, 12:54 PM
You'll want something better eventually, but the Harbor Freight punches and multi-bits will get you started. Don't try to punch steel or heavy aluminum though...

terryblulite
10-08-2008, 01:07 PM
Greenlee has a punch kit or two-you have to bore a pilot,then it"shears" it's way through when you tighten the bolt that connects the two halves with wrenches.Edge de-burring is a breeze,and this one doesn't distort the piece or throw hot filings around.Watch for the right hole sizes included,and any clearance problems close to the edge of the chassis.Or see if you can buy just the cutter you want.Just my 2 cents,the gurus here might say that the hole sizes aren't quite what they would want.I bought my Greenlee kit used at a garage sale for 15 bucks,and thought it was a deal.

salb203
10-08-2008, 01:28 PM
I bought my Greenlee kit used at a garage sale for 15 bucks,and thought it was a deal.

That wasn't a deal, that was a STEAL :yes: :yes:

Sal

Ty_Bower
10-08-2008, 01:34 PM
Here's a set of step drill bits from Harbor Fright. I bought the wrong set - mine only goes up to 1/2". You want the biggest step drill bit you can get.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96275

You might find that with the large step bits, you don't even need a punch kit. If you do, here it is:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201

terryblulite
10-08-2008, 01:43 PM
:lmao:"Harbor Fright":lmao:

Redboy
10-08-2008, 01:48 PM
I've done all my work so far with step bits (cheap ones, at that!). You've got to have the right chassis material, though. 6061 aluminum is great, some softer stuff I've worked with just got mangled.

Check out http://www.onlinemetals.com/ for great selection of metals.

Ty_Bower
10-08-2008, 02:06 PM
I've pretty much only worked aluminum. The 1/8" thick stuff makes a nice looking chassis. The step bits have no difficulty with it, but the punch set requires a little grunt to get it to go through. The last hole I made the punch got stuck in the die, along with the (what's the word for the chunk of slag leftover after punching?). Good thing I didn't need to make any more holes that day.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/DIY%20ST-35/th_P1080338.jpg (http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/DIY%20ST-35/P1080338.jpg) http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Simple%20SE/th_P1100329.jpg (http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Simple%20SE/P1100329.jpg)

My biggest gripe about the HF punch set is the sizes are all wrong for tube work. The smallest one is too small for anything. The next size up is a little on the large size for noval tubes, but barely big enough for octals. The last two sizes are too big for anything. Honestly, if you can do all your holes with the step drills I think you'll be happier.

kcollins4
10-08-2008, 02:42 PM
Keep in mind also, that the punch set listed does not make the hole sizes listed. Those are sizes of conduit fittings. All the punches make a larger hole. For example, the 1/2" punch actually makes a 7/8 hole.

ducati_EL34
10-08-2008, 02:44 PM
[

My biggest gripe about the HF punch set is the sizes are all wrong for tube work. The smallest one is too small for anything. The next size up is a little on the large size for noval tubes, but barely big enough for octals. The last two sizes are too big for anything. Honestly, if you can do all your holes with the step drills I think you'll be happier.


But you can take a good de-burring tool and open the whole just a "little bit" more, if need be. I use one for de-burring the inside of copper pipe.

Ty_Bower
10-08-2008, 03:07 PM
Hey, whaddaya know... the description for the step drills says:

"Automatically deburrs holes as you drill"

gearhound
10-08-2008, 03:18 PM
I used an Irwin stepped drill bit from Home Depot.....$44.


Steve

terryblulite
10-08-2008, 03:37 PM
Don't take the 'Harbor fright' thing wrong,it's a good one!...I'm still laughing.I was hoping somebody would post w/exp. about the hole sizes in the kits.I've only used them for conduit and panels.I have several stepped bits,too,for switches and such.Harbor Freight here has a 2-bit kit for some ungodly low price every so often and it works fine,and you can get a $10-15 air die grinder to debur,and all kinds of other good stuff- and you saved some bucks.But I still keep my eye peeled for the 'good stuff' at garage sales!

roberts67
10-08-2008, 07:09 PM
Having used both a Greenlee punch and a Unibit, my vote easily goes to the Unibit. Pay the extra money to get an Irwin or other high quality bit. The one at Harbor Freight sucks and gave me a slightly distorted hole. The Greenlee is way more work than the Unibit. The advice to get a deburring tool is also good. I bought a General deburring tool that works great for cleaning up the hole from the Unibit. Peace. Robert

avionic
10-08-2008, 07:25 PM
Greenlee is way more work than the UnibitNot if you have the hydraulic one.:thmbsp: With sharp cutters and clean dies...

tim614
10-09-2008, 09:18 AM
thanks all for the response. i think the step drill is the choice im going for ,i do have a drill press so i think it'll work just fine. 1/8" 6061 aluminiun seem like the right choice .

cubby01
10-10-2008, 09:40 PM
Greenlee has a punch kit or two-you have to bore a pilot,then it"shears" it's way through when you tighten the bolt that connects the two halves with wrenches.Edge de-burring is a breeze,and this one doesn't distort the piece or throw hot filings around.Watch for the right hole sizes included,and any clearance problems close to the edge of the chassis.Or see if you can buy just the cutter you want.Just my 2 cents,the gurus here might say that the hole sizes aren't quite what they would want.I bought my Greenlee kit used at a garage sale for 15 bucks,and thought it was a deal.

Wow, catching up after not reading for a few days.... I just this morning picked up 6 vintage (50s-ish) Greenlee "radio chassis punches" in individual boxes sizes 3/4 up through 1-1/2. Think I got a deal/steal as well. I had picked up one of the Harbor Freight sets some time ago only to be a little frustrated because the hole sizes didn't match their labels. Made due though. But these I just picked up look to be better quality.

soundmotor
10-11-2008, 08:46 AM
Harbor Freight's punch set is a knock-out punch set as is the one Greenlee sells at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. They are sized for conduit knock-outs & general AC electrical not electronics work. Greenlee still makes their terrific "chassis" round punches and they are far more precision than the conduit knock-out ones which cut sloppy.

Greenlee Chassis round Punches (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/searchresults.aspx?N=0&Ntk=Primary&Ntt=GREENLEE+PUNCHES&Source=&sid=11CEB5031ACFl)

Set up a search on that auction site and buy them used as they come up. The (2) biggies are the 3/4" for 9P & 1" for most octals. You will use these 80% of the time. You could also get a 1 1/4" for larger OD octals & a 5/8" for 7P . Then add extra odd sizes only as you need them. I've never paid much for a Greenlee chassis punch used and once you try them you will never use anything else except perhaps a mill.

soundmotor
10-11-2008, 08:48 AM
thanks all for the response. i think the step drill is the choice im going for ,i do have a drill press so i think it'll work just fine. 1/8" 6061 aluminiun seem like the right choice .

For a chassis that thick, drilling is the cheapest option.