Freshening up my JBL L-36's. Sanding seems to have gotten most all of this staining out. Using Howards Restore in Golden Oak. Should I just use Howards Wax 'n Feed when it dries or do multiple coats of the Restore a Finish first?

Will take the after pics tomorrow when they dry.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q227/shacky1973/IMGP1990.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q227/shacky1973/IMGP1985.jpg

:lurk:

Definitely keeping an eye on this one-- my L36's need some TLC, too.

Here's how they look after sanding with palm finishing sander with 150 grit paper then Restor-A-Finish. The palm sander made this a snap :yes:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q227/shacky1973/IMG_0445.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q227/shacky1973/IMG_0447.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q227/shacky1973/IMG_0448.jpg

Look pretty sweet..compared to the before pix.:scratch2:

The palm sander made this a snap :yes:

However, a drum sander would have been more macho, for sure.

Looks good.

dew.

Looking good!:thmbsp:

I think I would wet-sand with 220 grit using Watco Danish Oil: Several applications, either back-to-back, or better yet, wait 24 hrs. between apps. Make sure to wipe down well with dry dust-free rag within half an hour of application to prevent excess buildup. Once thoroughly cured (several days of cure time, more in a humid and/or cold environment), burnish with #0000 steel wool in order to remove excess oil, sanding residue and other foreign matter, as well as to enhance sheen and smoothen surfaces.

For extra sheen, optionally apply Minwax Paste Wax.

I invariably use this method for my refinishes, and it has never failed in producing excellent results as long as you follow the instructions.

That looks great!

Looking good!:thmbsp:

I think I would wet-sand with 220 grit using Watco Danish Oil: Several applications, either back-to-back, or better yet, wait 24 hrs. between apps. Make sure to wipe down well with dry dust-free rag within half an hour of application to prevent excess buildup. Once thoroughly cured (several days of cure time, more in a humid and/or cold environment), burnish with #0000 steel wool in order to remove excess oil, sanding residue and other foreign matter, as well as to enhance sheen and smoothen surfaces.

For extra sheen, optionally apply Minwax Paste Wax.

I invariably use this method for my refinishes, and it has never failed in producing excellent results as long as you follow the instructions.

That sounds like an excellent process. But I'm not that gung ho on these speakers to begin with. May very likely sell them down the road. So for now I'm very happy with the results.

This was good experience using palm sander. I plan to go that route from now on. Next up is a pair of EPI 202's that need attention.

Plus the Oak veneer on the JBL's appeared grainy to begin with. I figured applying the Howards after using the 150 grit would allow it to soak in more. I do realize now that Howards is meant for restoring finish without sanding and a pure stain or Tung oil might have been more appropriate. But I'm very happy with the results. :banana:

Here's another shot to compare with before.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q227/shacky1973/IMG_0443.jpg

Those JBLs look magnificent. Good luck on the second pair - the palm sander is really perfect for the job when used properly (incl. staying totally away from all edges and corners). I also like to moisten the cabinets before the last sanding round (and then give them time to completely dry) - this will raise the wood fibres (akin to what they would do when you apply oil) that you can then remove with the last sanding.