i have 2 sx 1010's. one i got from my dad that needed many repairs, and one from ebay. the one from ebay is in better shape but it came damaged in shipment with a cracked power output board. i replaced it with one from the one i had. it worked but would cutout at high volume,and was staticky when kicked on. i removed the front panel and cleaned all contacts with permatex contact cleaner,dried it with nitrogen and fired it back up. now it will only push the left speaker???? if i put it in mono mode it will push both, with the balance useable. i ohmed the balance knob out and it was .2900 in all positions on the right side. did i use the wrong contact cleaner? i thought i may have disturbed the wiring,so i ohmed every leg with no problems found. i read that it was also a good idea to solder the twist joints, so i did. i also checked for any previous cold solder joints and i found none.????? i dont get it??? the power down at high volume and now the balance problem. what did i do wrong? i also tried 3 different sets of speakers on the relay trouble. all had the same problem. i was wondering if it was a load problem but i guess not. i tried 2 different set of 8 ohms and my trusty 4 ohm vegas with no difference

The only thing you should use for contact cleaning is Caig DeOxit D5. The only thing you should use for cleaning pots is Caig FaderLube.

The 1010 allows you to use the amp and preamp separately. You can also remove the jumpers and use a regular IC cable to swap the L&R preamp outputs into the amp to see if the issue changes, thus helping to determine if the problem is originating in the amp or preamp.

My experiance with the 1010 tells me that you have taken the long way around in your attempt to remedy the problem. 19 times out of 20, a missing channel on a 1010 is due to dirty switches. Get the proper cleaner (available through AK sponsor Parts Express) and try again.

Here's a thread where I posted a pic of an easy method to clean the push switches on the 1010: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=144322

And yes, I got your PM. Yes, I'm an ass. Doesn't prevent me from trying to help in my cranky way. Don't take it personal. ;)

thank you echowars

do you have any suggestions on a retail store that would carry the deoxit chemicals? i tried radio shack and they never heard of it. here in fort worth its raining cats and dogs so i figure ill work on the pioneer tomorrow, im obviously not gonna do anything outside

never mind. guitar centers carry's both:D

AK sponsor Parts Express is where I buy mine. Have to pay shipping, but I am usually ordering $75 worth of other stuff anyway.

i wanted to do it tomorrow.do you think 2 cans of each is enough? its 12$ a can. i have nothing better to do, so i thought i would consume my self in pioneer repair.

You should be able to clean MANY pieces of equipment with a single can of each. This stuff is kind of expensive like you mentioned. When you're cleaning you're only spraying for a short amount of time on a small area - the stuff lasts.

ive cleaned the switches with de oxit 3 times. ive found that the unit works in all channels but only with the tone control off. i ohmed the switch and it is working ok. i also noticed that the power relay takes about 1 1/2 min to kick on. the tone control did work once but that was at first fire up and then it faded out. thats why i cleaned the unit for the 3rd time. another problem i have encountered since i got this unit is the tuner only works when it wants to. some times after playing it a while and some times when it first kicks on but usually only last about 5 min.any ideas out there?

It most likely is the power supply - a rebuild will shake all the bugs out of it. Caps and transistors, maybe a few resistors.

I was working on a 1010 a while back that had a "lazy tuner", and I ended up replacing the transistors, caps and a few resistors in the power supply. Presto - started behaving like a Marine....

There's instructions and parts lists to be found here to do that, and I'll look in to see if other parts are called for. It won't be expensive - most caps and transistors on it are under a buck - the resistors will be about a dime?

thanks for the info. i will rebuild the board. i am curious though????? i mess with it daily and have found that since de oxing it that it getts better every day. the power relay kicks on in about 3 sec. and im having no balance or tone issues. now the tuner is still on the frits but all else seems good. does it take time under operating conditions for the deoxit to work or is this just a coincedence?

we have a mouser electronics here in ft worth. can i take them a copy of the parts list from my service manual and get the parts or has a lot changed since this was printed 34 yrs ago? let me remind all that this is a hobbie that im trying to get serious with,, so please bare with me

we have a mouser electronics here in ft worth. can i take them a copy of the parts list from my service manual and get the parts or has a lot changed since this was printed 34 yrs ago? let me remind all that this is a hobbie that im trying to get serious with,, so please bare with me

do a search on "sx-1010" in pioneer audio. Mark lists a transistor, diode replacement part numbers from mouser.

we have a mouser electronics here in ft worth. can i take them a copy of the parts list from my service manual and get the parts or has a lot changed since this was printed 34 yrs ago? let me remind all that this is a hobbie that im trying to get serious with,, so please bare with me

Mouser is the one, lucky dog - being right there...

BUT the parts numbers are most likely obsolete. Even with the right numbers I don't think they do will call, but shipping across town should be quick...

Plus you don't need ALL the parts - just a select few. The electrolytic caps dry out after 20 - 30 years....

The power supply parts numbers are listed in multiple threads in here.

is it possible to test caps to see if they are failing? i have 2 power supply boards. on of them was damaged during shippment and the caps have a glue at the base. i was figuring that would be original. now the board i have installed has some without the glue and look to be newer. the board came from my dads stereo and i know he had alot of work done within the past 5 yrs but im unshure of what it was.

the only cap references i have found so far were for the 838 and so forth. does the 1010 use the same caps in the supply board??????

From another thread by Mark all Mouser part numbers



sx-1010 AWR054 power supply rebuild

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'll get a under 5(? w/o shipping) buck list together to do the power supply pass transistors and a few resistors. That's how I conquered maddarts power supply problem.

I should have just stressed that from the start.

Q4 2sb507
one 512-KSA940TU_Q pnp to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54

Q1 Q7 2sd313
two 512-KSC2073TU npn to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54 ea

Q8 2sc1384 (ecb)
one 512-KSC2690AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.40
or one 512-KSC2682YSTU to-126 ecb 180v .1a 1.2/8w 200mhz 100-320hfe $0.31 (preferred, the current is below 0.1 amp)

Q5 Q6 2sa628 (BCE)
two 512-KSA1013YBU to-92 ecb 160v 1a .9w 50mhz 160-320hfe $0.17 ea

Q2 Q3 2sc869 (ecb)
two 512-KSC2383YBU to-92 ecb 160v 1a .9w 50mhz 160-320hfe $0.17 ea

D8 D9 wz-032
two 512-1N5257B Fairchild 33 V, 0.5W zener $0.05 ea

D10 wz-014
one 512-1N5244B Fairchild 14 V, 0.5W Zener $0.05

two ten ohms 1/4 watt metal film 660-MF1/4DC10R0F 0.06 ea
one 3.3 ohms 1/4 watt metal film 660-MF1/4DC3R30F 0.06

was the power supply recapped?
ok, here's the caps:
C7 & C8 470uf (80v) 100v 647-UPW2A471MHD $1.87 ea
C10, C11 100uf (63v) 100v 647-UPW2A101MHD $0.87 ea
C12 & C13 100uf (35v) 63v 647-UPW1J101MPD1TD $0.37 ea
C14 47uf 50v 647-UPW1H470MED $0.25
C18 1000uf (35v) 50v 647-UPW1H102MHD1CV $0.98
C19 220uf (16v) 35v 647-UPW1V221MPD $0.41
C20 & C21 2200uf 10v 647-UPW1A222MHD $0.80 ea

extra parts just in case somebody's looking :
D1 D2 D3 D4 SIB01 100v 1amp
D5 D6 D7 1S1885 100v 1amp
512-1n4004 conventional rectifier 1a 400v $0.06 ea
__________________

ok all my parts for the power supply came today. i am curious, on the transistors mounted to the heat sink, should i use the mica insulators or thermal compound? or both????? also is there any additional upgrades i should do to keep it cool. i will be pushing this unit hard for a few hours at a time?

1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. Yes.

The metal tab of the transistor is at the collector potential, and without insulation you'll be shorting all of them together, since they share the same heatsink. A Bad Thing™.

are there any upgrades suggested for this unit while i have it apart. i have a pair of cerwin vega at-15' that i like to push to the limit, and i would hate all of this work to go south

Just keep the amp well ventilated.

thanks echo! im sorry we got off to such a rough start! i have an entertainment stand im dedicating to my baby. i figured id mount small fans in the back unless someone can tell me how to mount a few cpu fans under the cover?????? if that would work?? im setting on about 15, (2 to 5)" fans.

I don't like internal fans. Anytime you're moving air, you're moving dirt. A cpu fan will simply pack in the dirt.

Set the unit on a clean, hard surface, with ample room above for heat to escape (5" at least). If you have to rock hard for a lengthy period of time, train a room fan on the unit to help with heat removal.

Remember that receivers aren't really meant to run at 'balls to the wall' output levels for long periods of time. You need big dedicated amps for that.

I don't like internal fans. Anytime you're moving air, you're moving dirt. A cpu fan will simply pack in the dirt.

Set the unit on a clean, hard surface, with ample room above for heat to escape (5" at least). If you have to rock hard for a lengthy period of time, train a room fan on the unit to help with heat removal.

Remember that receivers aren't really meant to run at 'balls to the wall' output levels for long periods of time. You need big dedicated amps for that.

Seconded. I have had AMPLE (negative) industrial experience with fan cooling, filters, heat rise and preventative maintenance schedules.

More air, more dirt, dirt caked on the heat sink reduces cooling ability.

ok i have started the cap replacement and have found that the originals had an epoxy at the base. is this for vibration???? some of the new caps had a slightly narrower wire diameter so they would not seat flush with the board. should i hot glue or epoxy the base at 1 point to prevent movement?

The glue was to hold the part in place during factory assembly. Not really needed on replaced parts.

i changed all the recomended parts in the power supply and noticed a few weak solder joints for some resistors not changed. i resoldered them and have found that the coating started to crack and flake. were the originals painted??? do i need to worry and replace these also. i noticed that the 3 resistors i removed did the same thing. i thought it was from me overheating them during removal so i was verry carefull at resoldering the joints.

i dont get this site. i had the post new thread option, i posted 1 thread and lost the ability. i noticed that donate was there so i did. i still cant post new threads. the icon is not there to post?????

Do you want or need to start a new thread? You do this from the proper location...which is not while viewing another thread (from there the only option is to reply to the thread you are currently viewing).

As far as resistors, many have an enamel coating. If the coating is cracked, the resistor gets replaced. Simple as that.

There should be no reason to not be able to start a new thread from whichever forum you choose. There is no need to donate in order to start a thread. I assume there may have been a misunderstanding of some sort. Maybe your donation can be used toward a subscription which does afford some extra benefits.

i did subscribe. i have gone by the faq and i dont see the option to post again. i found it once under search i think. id like to start a new thread for a turntable. but my next post is the most important. thanks for the info

ok my power supply board has resistors with the coating flaking off. i went thru the previous threads to find matching mouser #'s to match these and could not. i replaced all the cap's, transistors, and 3 resistors per mark's page. i went to mouser.com and did a search of the others. (im guessing metal film would be ok)???? now on the search i had to input the,tolerance,voltage rating,temp coefficient,operating temperature,and deminsions. i have not the slightest clue of how to figure this out. some of the smaller caps i need to. they look slightly cooked. the most brown of all are rated at 0.001@50v. the others are0.01@150v.i would love if someone knew the mouser #s. i can list my resistor requirements if needed. thanks for the patience:scratch2:

ok so if i go with the original ohm values for the resistors and figure a 10% variable. figure an operation range of 60f to the max of let's say 300f. i touched the heat sink while operating at high volume and it burned me about the same as a pot of boiling spaghetti. i keep the demensions as close as i can to the original. i know they are 1/4 watt and i figure the opp voltage range to be above a buck 50, would that be a good resistor choice for my power supply board????

It's a little more complex then that. IF they are within tolerance for their specified resistance why do you want to change them? Exactly WHICH resistors are they? Values? Rx number? I haven't looked back to see...

Heatsink is hot? Power supply? - maybe there's a short elsewhere pulling too much juice -

I was not ignoring you - I COULDN'T answer. And this isn't a quick easy answer, it takes time to work through the entire thread, catching up and figuring out where you are REALLY at.... SO:

I HOPE by this weekend (Sunday Evening??) I can resolve and finish some things and get back online again, but a series of real world issues have forced me off line, or left me too tired to do accurate and reliable troubleshooting posts.

And with the backlog of requests, it will take a while to work through them.

the power supply board was getting hot before the recap. since then i never hooked it back up. i tried to resolder some bad joints and found that the enamel on the resistors were flakeing. keep in mind that i transplanted this board #awr054, from my dad's old stereo that had been thru hell and multiple failures. i know for shure that on the last failure it poped 2 output transistors. it also recentlly went thru 2 power transformers, a few caps and most the switches didnt realise if they were on or off. i did the full recap of the board , the transistors and the 3 resistors that were spec'd by mark. now i would like to go ahead and replace the the resistors. they ohm to spec but look damaged. i did more home work and found these #s from mouser going by the original ohm rating. i noticed that the recomended resistors i changed were at a 1% variable verses the 5% that was factory. well i figured all of them at 1%. im gonna post the mouser parts list. at the price of the resistors, i figured id order them for shits and giggles anyway. i hope they are right let me know please if they arent. mouser is next door.
660-MF1/4DC10R0F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
10ohm 1% 100PPM (r11,r12,r21)

660-MF1/4DC3R30F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
3.3ohm 1% 100PPM (r20)


660-MF1/4DC3300F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
330ohm 1% 100PPM (r18)

660-MF1/4DCT52R3002F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
1/4W 30K ohm 1% (r17)


660-MF1/4DC1802F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
18K 1% 100PPM (r15)

660-MF1/4DC8201F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
8.2K 1% 100PPM (r9,r10)


660-MF1/4DC1502F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
15K 1% 100PPM (r7,r8,r16)


660-MF1/4DC1002F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
10K 1% 100PPM (r5,r6,r19)


660-MF1/4DC1001F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
1K 1% 100PPM (r3,r4)

ok there is a 3.3 k resistor for r1,&r2 that i didnt replace. they are set high above the board with a wrap around 1 leg. they ohmed right so ill let them be.i hope the other values are ok. ill let yall know within the next day or two. im replacing the back panel first. its all scratched up and the ferrite antenna mount is snapped of this unit. after that in with the power board and hope like hell it works right.:D

when you power it up, use a dim bulb tester. measure the voltages for ones grossly off, but the dim bulb will affect the readings, so the accurate readings are taken after the dim bulb is removed - when things are reasonably close.

were the resistor values i found the wrong ones??? they are on post #35. they are the same ohm rating and wattage as the service manual specifies

were the resistor values i found the wrong ones??? they are on post #35. they are the same ohm rating and wattage as the service manual specifies

If you had been wrong, as you requested
i hope they are right let me know please if they arent - somebody would have pointed out any errors -

Since I'm feeling marginally better (but not well enough to re-attack the "real world problems" I was working on when I got sick), and I think my concentration is better than it was, I took the time to double check your list. It's fine - acknowledging the missing r1 & r2 3.3k ohm resistors.

Since when I looked in mouser, the 5% and 1% resistors in the quantities we would order were about the same price (and the fact i had a harder time finding the 5% and in stock values) i went with the 1% on the few resistors I have specified for repair. resistors are the least likely part to be replaced if they have not gone up in smoke...

mouser's "next door", hmmmm, if it weren't for the fire ants - I might be jealous.

thanks everybody for the help. i fired her up late last night and she sounds great. the protect circuit engages in about 2 seconds. there is no static on any knobs, the tuner is flawless and all the inputs work.:banana:

I know I for 1 have learned a LOT from this thread. Thanks every one and glad to see your sx-1010 is up and running!

just out of curiosity? can the main caps be failing and not be audible untill under an extreme load? im listening to my pioneer as i type this, but on a set of smaller speakers. i havent thrown the covers on yet. i figured id test it a few hours first. so far we are at about 8 hr's with no problems. should i consider replacing the main caps before i throw this unit at my cerwin vegas? if so does anyone know the mouser #s

http://www.newark.com/06H1271/non-stocked/product.us0?sku=united-chemi-con-36da183f075bb2n&_requestid=163450

ok my main caps came in yesterday. with what im pushing with this unit and the warnings of the life of an electrolytic capacitor,i figured id change the ones in the power and protect circuits. i have found most the #'s but i am wondering??? should i change the transistors in the amp boards? would it be more reliable and function better if i did?

no, if it ain't broke (if you can't find anything wrong), don't fix it...

ok, but the caps are a good idea right? only the electrolytics.

ok, but the caps are a good idea right? only the electrolytics.

correct,- a search could also turn up exceptions.... I can't do searches well from here(AKFEST)...

The masters could also post exceptions - but THEY are here at AKfest TOO...

at the risk of sounding like a goon!! the transistors in this unit have not been changed in 34 yrs??? is there not an aging problem i have to worry about? it was recomended to change the trans,and zener diodes in the power supply board, but i guess i am confused of why that would not be recomended in the amp and protect boards. i understand the reason behind the cap replacement,,well the electrolytics that is. the unit does work good now but i would like to cover all bases before i put her into finall entertaining posititon

at the risk of sounding like a goon!! the transistors in this unit have not been changed in 34 yrs??? is there not an aging problem i have to worry about? it was recomended to change the trans,and zener diodes in the power supply board, but i guess i am confused of why that would not be recomended in the amp and protect boards. i understand the reason behind the cap replacement,,well the electrolytics that is. the unit does work good now but i would like to cover all bases before i put her into finall entertaining posititon

no, it's a good question:

The power supplies are heat stressed, Pioneer runs them hot, and if the ventilation is restricted - they get way too hot, thus replacement is a good idea. The protection circuits Q6 & Q7 transistors are also stressed in different ways, and the modern ztx-1056a replacements are far more robust ( 6 AMPS pulse current, 3 amps continuous), and the extra diode put across pins 9 & 10 helps alleviate some of that stress too.

The amps are NOT run that "close to the edge". there are a few transistors that can inspire mistrust, but the dangers of a wholesale replacement causing damage are greater than the chances of eventual failure. I include MYSELF (not just "noobs") in the group that should think long and hard before doing a complete replacement of transistors in the 1010 amplifiers.

Just as an example, the EchoWars 1250 at the fest that he "did the works on" still had the original outputs - but I didn't ask about the rest of the transistors in the amp....

If it ain't broke - don't fix it.

edit: changed Q5 & Q6 to the correct Q6 & Q7

is there a link i am missing for the diode installation for pins 9&10 in the protect circuit??? also on the main caps, does anyone know the mouser #'s for the resistors that bridge the terminals? my manuall calls for a 3.3k metal oxide 2watt resistor. i searched mouser and cannot find a metal oxide resistor. is it considered a metal film now??

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn259/ZeroJunk1953/IMG_0384.jpg


See it between pin 9 and 10


for a 3.3k metal oxide 2watt resistor. i searched mouser and cannot find a metal oxide resistor. is it considered a metal film now??

It's not particularly critical as long as it will bleed of fairly quickly, but not waste too much energy while the unit is on. EW uses 5.6 K 3 watt I think he said.

is it a metal film or a wire wound? thanks zj for the diode pic

What is the diode? Mouser part number?

thats what i would like to know

A 1N4004 would work fine. Pay attention to the polarity (duh).
JimB

is there a link i am missing for the diode installation for pins 9&10 in the protect circuit??? also on the main caps, does anyone know the mouser #'s for the resistors that bridge the terminals? my manuall calls for a 3.3k metal oxide 2watt resistor. i searched mouser and cannot find a metal oxide resistor. is it considered a metal film now??

594-5083NW3K300J
3.3k 2watt metal film resistor 5% $0.32 ea

What is the diode? Mouser part number?

512-1n4004 conventional rectifier 1a 400v $0.06 ea

I would like to clarify something, on the Power Supply Board AWR-054 is this listing correct for the diode replacement?

extra parts just in case somebody's looking :
D1 D2 D3 D4 SIB01 100v 1amp
D5 D6 D7 1S1885 100v 1amp
512-1n4004 conventional rectifier 1a 400v $0.06 ea

All 7 Diodes can be replaced using the 1n4004?
I am also rebuild an SX-1010 and just finished the recap of this board as well as replaced the resistors. Diodes next.... so I just thought I would ask now...:music:

Those diodes don't fail very often, but yeah...you can replace them with plain-Jane 1N4004's.

Thanks EW,
They were just in the parts list for the board rebuild so I ordered them with everything else. Since you say they don't fail very often I will stay away from them. :yes: The board on this 1010 was in fairly bad shape. A couple of the transistors had already been replaced and whoever did it lifted a couple of pads.

I reckon the other diodes are fine to so I will stay away from them. I replaced all the caps as well as the trans..... so this board should be good for a few more years of :music:

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn259/ZeroJunk1953/IMG_0384.jpg


See it between pin 9 and 10




It's not particularly critical as long as it will bleed of fairly quickly, but not waste too much energy while the unit is on. EW uses 5.6 K 3 watt I think he said.

the ztx-1056a is at Q6 & Q7 :scratch2:right and not Q5 & Q6

the ztx-1056a is at Q6 & Q7 :scratch2:right and not Q5 & Q6

:D I am hoping pins 9 and 10 are the right place now!!!:yes:

:D I am hoping pins 9 and 10 are the right place now!!!:yes:i dont get it??? wait go back to mark's post on the protect circuit. thats what im questioning and i used this pic as an example from the diode question that i had

The referenced picture shows an AWM-062 protection board with apparently a ztx-1056a in the Q7 position (zetex e-line package) as well as the Q6 position quite close to the pins 9 & 10 with the diode attached, anode to pin 9 and cathode to pin 10.

If there is a post I did with an error that you have found please post a link to it.

The Q7 position - originally a 2sc1384 - turns on (and off) the protection relay by conducting current collector to emitter and through r28 (220 ohms) to ground and energizing the relay coil.

The Q6 position - originally a 2sc945 - discharges C6, 100uf 16v , which is the time delay capacitor, through R27 through the 22 ohm resistor to ground. This subjects Q6 to high pulse currents through it every time the circuit turns the relay off.

Both can benefit from a replacement, and the 2sc945 in Q6 position is a bit marginal for the application, a higher current transistor with lots of gain is preferred.

The ztx1056a is no longer being restocked by our usual suppliers, and may be a special ($$ quantity) order item.

Thus a new transistor has been selected.
OK, like EchoWars says, the relay pull in current is weak (not a short buzzing, but the relay buzzing as it tries to pull in), so replace the 2sc1384 (ecb) with 512-KSD1616LBU (ecb), as the zetex will no longer available.
[color=magenta]
2sc1384 to-92 npn ecb 50v 1a 1w 85-240hfe 200mhz

Q10 - 512-KSD1616LBU to-92 ecb 50v 1a 0.75w 160mhz 135-600 $0.09 ea
C245 - 647-UPW1H010MDD 1uf/50v $0.10 ea
C243 - 647-UPW1H100MDD1TD 10uf/50v $0.09 ea
C244 - 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uf/35v $0.22 ea

Maybe you want to pursue other parts at the same time to pad out the order? (as in further postings etc...)


the 1616 is fine, and the 1616a has more voltage with slightly less gain.

512-KSD1616ALBU to-92 ecb x60v 1a 0.75w 160mhz 135-400 $0.09
512-KSD1616LBU to-92 ecb 50v 1a 0.75w 160mhz 135-600 $0.09

no, it's a good question:

The power supplies are heat stressed, Pioneer runs them hot, and if the ventilation is restricted - they get way too hot, thus replacement is a good idea. The protection circuits Q5 & Q6 transistors are also stressed in different ways, and the modern ztx-1056a replacements are far more robust ( 6 AMPS pulse current, 3 amps continuous), and the extra diode put across pins 9 & 10 helps alleviate some of that stress too.

The amps are NOT run that "close to the edge". there are a few transistors that can inspire mistrust, but the dangers of a wholesale replacement causing damage are greater than the chances of eventual failure. I include MYSELF (not just "noobs") in the group that should think long and hard before doing a complete replacement of transistors in the 1010 amplifiers.

Just as an example, the EchoWars 1250 at the fest that he "did the works on" still had the original outputs - but I didn't ask about the rest of the transistors in the amp....

If it ain't broke - don't fix it.

mark this is the post i was questioning. now for Q6 & Q7 i have 4 new ztx-1056a transistors that i ordered from mouser a few months ago. should i use them???

mark this is the post i was questioning. now for Q6 & Q7 i have 4 new ztx-1056a transistors that i ordered from mouser a few months ago. should i use them???

Yes. As long as you have them, use them....

I just have to keep an eye on the future for things like "I can't find ztx-1056a's mentioned in the thread" come back to bite me.

thanks for the link to the post, I fixed it.... must have been a momentary memory lapse....

the tone switch is starting to get real staticky now. when i turn it on i have to flip it a few times for the sound quality to come back. i have used deoit twice on it back at the begining of the year. shoud i just change this switch when i get back at the cap replacement? if so where should i get them from? is there a mouser # for the switches

1. No.
2. There is no source for these antique parts.
3. No, Mouser doesn't carry them either.

I've never seen one of these Pioneer's where the switch was so bad that I had to change it out. DeOxit will do the job fine when used properly.

on the poliester film caps that replace the electrolitics on awm-062 is there not a positive or negative lead

Film caps are bipolar, so....no.

thank's ew

on board awm-062 the ztx 1056-a transistors are suposed to be installed as in this picture right. emiter is the left terminal, base is the center and collector is right???? i was looking at my other unit and it looks as if the trans are in different positions. now that is with what may be original??? im not shure though. its a parts unit that has been gone for years. i am also judging it by the flat surface cut into the trans, im not shure if thats a proper way to view it or not. im including a pic of my board. the one with the ztx-1056a is from a post by zero junk

Look at the arrow on the circuit board. Your transistor is either NPN or PNP.

The transistor specs will tell you whether it is ECB, BCE or whatever being the emitter, collector, base orientation. Install them per this.


edit.IT's looking at the transistor from the pin side with the flat side being the front.

ok so there correct then right. i bought the 1056a's and installed them as your picture showed. the pictures i posted were my board before the recap and trans replacement. and the other was from a post of yours on my page. my board now looks the same. do they change the layout for trans leads per manufacturer or are they a general platform? did i get it right???

As much as I tried, I couldn't distinguish which way the flat was facing in your picture.

You have to pay CLOSE CAREFUL attention to the datasheet, zetex is different...the rounded side is printed on,

the drawing on the datasheet does show the layout clearly - BUT you could be used to seeing the printing on the flat side (most others) versus the printing being on the rounded side on the zetex.

With the flat facing you, AND the leads facing DOWN, the layout is ebc. IGNORE the printing of the transistor number.

edit: in the Q7 position the collector is connected to pin 9, directly, follow the foil....

thank you mark they are installed correctly

change of subject,,, when i go to re clean all the switches, i have a whole can of de-oxit g5 gold. what can i use that for???? i have d5 and faderlube allready

change of subject,,, when i go to re clean all the switches, i have a whole can of de-oxit g5 gold. what can i use that for???? i have d5 and faderlube allready

gold: protectant.... switches after deoxiting, connectors, jacks rca included....

there are a little over 1,500 ztx-1056a transistors avaliable at mouser for shipment. they are no longer being stocked

there are a little over 1,500 ztx-1056a transistors avaliable at mouser for shipment. they are no longer being stocked

a similar situation happened with the ksk30 50v jfets, and while I thought there was plenty of cushion and the parts would be available for a long time, the opposite was true, they disappeared within a week.

But at $1.51 ea / $0.78 in 100's and $0.468 in 1000's it might be a bit slower...

even so, that's why I stopped recommending them - eventually the advice will be out of date...

since i am new at this i figured i would rebuild one board at a time and test. as you have seen,, i remove the board, clean, and rebuild. i then re wrap with hemostats and solder. i guess im doing good so far because im listening to it right now. tomorrow im doing the muting and eq circuits. i thank everyone for there help. its put me this far

ok im re capping my last board on the list awg-027 control amplifier assy. is there no need to change the 4 caps in each amp board???? i read that in a few post and was just curious? i realise that they will be a pain to remove but if it will improve sound quality i have no problem doing it.

ok im re capping my last board on the list awg-027 control amplifier assy. is there no need to change the 4 caps in each amp board???? i read that in a few post and was just curious? i realise that they will be a pain to remove but if it will improve sound quality i have no problem doing it.

Yes, replace them. They are input coupling and feedback, they can and do affect sound quality.

If you haven't purchased them yet, figure out if it really uses c1 & C2, plus on the higher end units they use metalized foil caps in those input positions.

C4 smooths the offset and C8 is the feedback capacitor.

While it's open, regreasing the output transistors is a good idea.
Use thin grease layers so there's minimal squeeze out, don't torque it down until the socket is in it's recesses in the heat sink and use an ohmmeter to check for shorts to the heatsink. Get one good spot, probe to heatsink, and then another for the other probe to be sure both are zero ohm connections, then lift one probe and check the transistors, finally go back to the first "other" spot and re-verify zero ohms to be sure the stationary probe didn't slip or loose contact.

i ordered all transistors for this unit a few months ago since they are becoming obsolete. with the suggestion of re greasing the output transistors , i was wondering if i should install the new ones i have or keep using my originals

i ordered all transistors for this unit a few months ago since they are becoming obsolete. with the suggestion of re greasing the output transistors , i was wondering if i should install the new ones i have or keep using my originalsdo i need new mica strips or can i use the originals

They can be reused if they weren't glued down with clear glue.

Just carefully clean off the white stuff. Don't bend them, they are fragile in some directions.

New are still available, if necessary.


mouser.com
534-4662 to-3 mica insulators $0.16 each

i ordered all transistors for this unit a few months ago since they are becoming obsolete. They are already obsolete, if by 'obsolete', you mean "no one has made them for 15+ years and anything you buy with that number on it now is almost certainly a Chinese counterfeit and will probably blow-up as soon as power is applied and undo all my hard work and loving effort".

So yeah, if that's what you mean by 'obsolete', then sure, those outputs are obsolete.

They can be reused if they weren't glued down with clear glue.

Just carefully clean off the white stuff. Don't bend them, they are fragile in some directions.

New are still available, if necessary.


mouser.com
534-4662 to-3 mica insulators $0.16 each

what about installing my new output transistors?????

HUH??

Use NEW thermal grease? Don't use too much? On BOTH sides of the mica?

Don't crack the sockets, by missing the recesses for the socket in the heat sink BEFORE tightening? It keeps them centered so there are no short circuits to the heat sink.

Ohm test for shorts to the heat sink before applying power?

That kind of stuff?

thanks

the new transistors i have are from mouser. 863-MJ21194G (npn) & 863-MJ21193G (pnp). both rated at 16A 250V 250W. should i have not ordered these? if there right should i install them or keep running the originals?

They are fine.

As far as obsolescence, you may have taken a previous post about the TO-3 transistors that I concocted and read it to mean that this style of transistor was going to be disappearing any day. Probably not the case, but due to the fact that On-Semi is one of the last trustworthy fabs that is still cranking out good quality TO-3 transistors, it doesn't hurt to have a few spares.

The TO-3's will disappear eventually, but I'd say they have a few years to go yet.

In my not so humble (on this subject :stupid: ) opinion, they are superior to the originals.

In my not so humble (on this subject :stupid: ) opinion, they are superior to the originals.

im getting confused?????? do i run the original output transistors or install my new ones and keep the old ones for spares????? im waiting on a solid answer before i do anything. im just looking at her gutted right now before i do anything

Sometimes, a man just has to make a decision. Assuming the originals are not blown, this is strictly your call.

i guess im gonna stick with the originals since they still work

i guess im gonna stick with the originals since they still work

That is what I did with my SX-1250. I found the outputs are fine and even though I'd like to get the new ones in, I decided to keep the old ones in. On the other hand, my SX-1010 has the new set of outputs because only one channel has the originals and the other channel has 2 different brands of outputs. You did fine. I'd just keep the originals unless there's a real reason to replace them.

cool thats what i will do.

how important is c2 on board awh-032? i missed that cap and dont like the idea of ordering 2 parts at less than a buck each and paying 7.50 for shipping

how important is c2 on board awh-032? i missed that cap and dont like the idea of ordering 2 parts at less than a buck each and paying 7.50 for shipping

That's the input coupling capacitor, when it leaks electrically your offset will go off the charts, and as it looses value the bass response will diminish.

Are you SURE it uses C1 and C2, sometimes there are factory mods that whittle it down to one of a different value.

Frankly, I have done that before, and on personal units, I get the part with my next order and tape the bag to the back of the unit, for later installation. If something starts sounding bad, it gets me motivated to do it sooner.

on board awh-032 can i use poliester caps in place of both c1 & c2? i found a previous post that called for mouser # 5989-100v.68 for c1, and i have found 5989-100v1.5f for c2. i am unshure of what the difference is between the electrolitic and poliester are other than the electrolite. what are the differences??? i am planing to make a hopefull finall order from mouser friday and needed to get some input from the masters. i know i need insulators to be able to regrease my outputs so i figured id get the rest

on board awh-032 can i use poliester caps in place of both c1 & c2? i found a previous post that called for mouser # 5989-100v.68 for c1, and i have found 5989-100v1.5f for c2. i am unshure of what the difference is between the electrolitic and poliester are other than the electrolite. what are the differences??? i am planing to make a hopefull finall order from mouser friday and needed to get some input from the masters. i know i need insulators to be able to regrease my outputs so i figured id get the rest

pay attention to the size differences in the caps, it may be like trying to balance a bucket on a postage stamp.

Stacked films have excellent high frequency characteristics due to their construction, it's just that they are honking huge - but have been getting smaller. They are bi-polar or unipolar and don't use electrolyte so they won't dry out.

On the higher end units, Pioneer MADE room for them on the amplifier cards...
so yes, if it fits, use it.

pay attention to the size differences in the caps, it may be like trying to balance a bucket on a postage stamp.

Stacked films have excellent high frequency characteristics due to their construction, it's just that they are honking huge - but have been getting smaller. They are bi-polar or unipolar and don't use electrolyte so they won't dry out.

On the higher end units, Pioneer MADE room for them on the amplifier cards...
so yes, if it fits, use it. yeah im not shure if they will fit. i found some electrolytic replacements. can i bump from 25 v to 50v and run a 20% tollerance. the ones i found are at mouser and were considered high impedance capacitors. the only other options were low leak down at 10% but on back order. the ones i found were 647-upv1hr68mfd for c1 & 647-upj1h1r5mdd for c2

so yes, if it fits, use it

grumble......
metallized polyester cap parts numbers for sx-1010 input:
(choose ONE of each...)

1.5uf

5989-100V1.5-F Cornell Dubilier 100v $1.02 6.5 W x 18.5 L x 13.4 H 15mm spacing

505-MKS21.5/50/10 Wima 50v $1.01 4.5 w x 9.5 h x 7.2 L 5mm lead spacing

667-ECQ-E2155KB Panasonic 250v $0.91 9 mm W x 18.5 mm L x 16.8 mm H 10 mm lead spacing


0.68 uf

505-MKS2.68/63/10 Wima 63v $0.63 4.5 w x 9.5 h x 7.2L 5mm lead spacing

5989-100V.68-F Cornell Dubilier 100v $0.67 6 mm W x 12.5 mm L x 11.9 mm H 10 mm Lead Spacing

667-ECQ-V1H684JL Panasonic 50v $0.45 6.5 mm W x 7.3 mm L x 10 mm H 5mm lead spacing

thank's. i know im driving you guy's nuts,,,,sorry about that

That's the input coupling capacitor, when it leaks electrically your offset will go off the charts, and as it looses value the bass response will diminish.

Are you SURE it uses C1 and C2, sometimes there are factory mods that whittle it down to one of a different value.

Frankly, I have done that before, and on personal units, I get the part with my next order and tape the bag to the back of the unit, for later installation. If something starts sounding bad, it gets me motivated to do it sooner.

Turbolite, on Mark's list in above post #103 shows two capacitors. Both being used in signal path. The older model has both but the newer model ONLY have 0.68uf. Check your amplifier board before you decide to order those 1.5uf. My amplifier board does not use 1.5uf but only use 0.68uf because it's a newer model. I used stacked film in that. Works great.

That's the trouble with these type of threads, things get missed, or not hammered on strongly enough when the OP is distracted.

Nuts? no - just research I either have done before and not saved, or put off doing. I'm learning to save EVERYTHING I do... in the right place in my system - sooner or later I'll need it again.... for youze guyz or myself....

i guess mine is an older unit. it runs (c1 .68), (c2 1.5), (c4 10),& (c8 330)

ok i dont get this. i am re capping my final board, (awg-027) control amp assy. on my manual and for what i have found on this site, the caps 49,50,51,&52 are supposed to be 47 uf 16v. the ones i just removed are 100uf 16v. what do i have going on here??? can i use the 47 uf????

ok i dont get this. i am re capping my final board, (awg-027) control amp assy. on my manual and for what i have found on this site, the caps 49,50,51,&52 are supposed to be 47 uf 16v. the ones i just removed are 100uf 16v. what do i have going on here??? can i use the 47 uf????

Yes.

Either one is fine in those positions, they are power supply RC filters, coupled with R59 - R62 (2.2k).

There are always production variations in what actually goes in, what they started the design with, what the bean counters whittled them down to, and what the finally agreed to say in the service manual. To compound matters, you need an experienced eye to tell if those are original caps, or someone else's bright idea.

In this case it doesn't matter (much).

thank you mark!!!!!!! i should be done with this beast tomorrow. woo hoo!!!:banana:

i want to thank everyone for their patience and help! this stereo sounds and looks brand new now. i could not me more pleased, thanks again

Congrats, glad you got it going. They sound about as good as anything, to me anyway.

Agree with ZeroJunk that this model sounds very nice. Terrific that you've put so much of your own effort into this to get it back in action.

im trying to find the matching original components now for this unit. i remember my dad had a set of bad ass 15" speakers with a lattice type grill and a wood case turntable, all bought at the same time in 74. does anyone have an idea what model #s they might be

Maybe a PL-12D or PL-71 TT and CS-99a speakers?

i have noticed that this unit wants to kick off under a good bass hit at about 1/3 volume. that is with both low freq knobs set at +1. im pushing a set of cv at-15 speakers, they sound like they want way more but the unit wont do it. what i really dont get is that i had the unit up and it shutoff twice before i was able to get in the same room and then it played flawless. is there something going wrong or is this normall for this beast. now if i were to turn it up more after that, it does the same thing. on,off,on,off, so on and so forth. the sound is awsome at higher volumes and sounds crystal clear,but wont seem to go much more than 1/3,unless the bass is reduced to the negative settings. any ideas out there??????:scratch2:

I haven't read through the entire thread but it sounds like the power supply can't deliver. If you didn't replace the big power supply caps now may be the time.
JimB

Aren't these 400 watt 4 ohm speakers? That need about 150 watts to light them up?

Sounds like you're running out of amp.....

Sounds like the current limit transistors on the protect board might be kicking in...if your problem description (unit 'kicking off') means that the protect relay is opening up.

ok so im just running out of juice then??? what i have found about my vegas is they are 4 ohm and have a wattage rating of min 5w and max 400w. i only run the 2 speakers. i knew for shure id cook something if i tried to add a rear section

my speaker select switches are starting to fade and get staticky again. i used the deoxit d5 followed with the g5 multiple times during the rebuild. do i need to repeat that process a few more times for perfection or do i need to r&r the switches? if i do need to replace the switches are there any sugestions on where to go

Could the problem be the relay? Next time a channel fades out, tap the relay.

i dont have the cover off but if i lightly move the switch it cleans up. before i do that i move the balance and it seems to allways be the right channel. could the relay cause that issue???? if so what do you recomend for the repair? you are talking about the big clear covered relay that goes thru the main support in the center of the unit right?:scratch2:wait a minute, come to think of it i was on channel a last week and the problem started so i switched to b. now today it started the same thing. left is allways ok.

right up your alley, if it is the relay (sounds likely - do the tapping EchoWars suggests) :

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=150439&highlight=sx-1010

as a bonus I discovered that this relay

omron ly2f-dc24 mouser part number 653-ly2f-dc24

can snap directly INTO the old case, thus no fooling around with standoffs..

I HAVE DONE IT, on several different models already. Not theory, practice...