Sounds like a 70's movie title! I have a few questions for the resident experts to tap.

1. I have a Yamaha HTR 5740 that I use to listen to music with in 2 channel only with 4 speakers. The problem is that one pair is 4 ohm and one pair is 8 ohm, and I need the 4 ohm on the left channel and the 8 ohm on the right due to my room configuration. :scratch2: Thanks to the advise of Ziltch, I put the 4 ohm on "A" and the 8 ohm pair on the surrounds. I guess this keeps the amp happy, but the sound quality has suffered and some is missing.

So I am back to my "A" & "B" traditional flow of electrons and the sound is fuller, complete and bassier. I have the 4 ohm pair on the Left of A & B, the 8 ohm pair on the right of A & B. This Yam is a CL $80 sacrificial lamb if I overheat the amp, so be it, but it is hanging in there.

2. So, as I understand it, running like this will not damage the speaker, but will create extra strain / heat on the amp. My volume knob never goes past about -18 (about one third power). Am I really going to destroy the amp? I am consider ordering a cooling fan for the top of the unit to help, would it do much good.

3. I so enjoy Yamaha sound that I ordered a RX-797 yesterday, I want the whole sound!. I am theorizing that if the HTR enduring lower than recommended impedance, then the giant RX can. I want to believe. The RX has pre-outs in case I must run separate amps because I will not change my speakers.:smoke:

The RX has pre-outs in case I must run separate amps

That'd probably be what I'd do.

Why four speakers for 2 channels? Ruins any chance at a coherent stereo image...

;2670580']That'd probably be what I'd do.

Why four speakers for 2 channels? Ruins any chance at a coherent stereo image...

That was my question when reading this post. It would work, but why would you do it?

2 speakers on "A" and 2 Speaker on "B". It images fantastic, and better than with a single pair. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?

I'm not going to knock someone's preferences, but are you sure you're not just happier with the lobing?

Generally, you don't want multiple drivers in different locations playing the same bandwidth unless the speaker's designed for it (like line arrays).

Understand that the side with the two 4ohm speakers attached is actually like one 2 ohm speaker. A pretty tough load for some amps. I think I would like to see just how this is being setup.

If it sounds good to you then the only thing you are doing "wrong" is the potential for damage to the channel with the two 4ohm speakers.

I'm not sure what Lobing is. What I do enjoy is having distinct sounds emitting from each of the 4 speakers; especially percussion. This of course depends on the recording. I am trying to avoid a stack of components -- for my wifes sake if you know what I mean. I was mainly curious how effective fans would be in cooling the amp to sufficient levels.

Even many separate amps aren't especially happy driving 2 ohm loads.

Although, if you don't crank it up much, or all that often, evidently the receiver lives.

Guess I'm with the others that as long as you're pleased, then so be it. However, having two different speakers for L and R admittedly sounds strange to me.

I'd think you'd typically have one of the W-3s and one of the W-5s on left and same on right, not both W-3s on left and both W-5s on right (or vice versa). If you could arrange that, it would be somewhat better for the amp at 2.67 ohms vs 2 ohms.

Are the speakers currently wired in parallel or in series?

Sounds like the left pair should also be quite a bit louder, unless there's a substantial difference in efficiency of the different models.

je

i recently got a new yamaha rx 797.........you'll love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the Endorsement Bill. Mine arrives on Tuesday, I'm pretty pumped. :banana:I ordered a "box top" fan for it also, figured I'll start off on the right foot.

I was reading reviews online and there were virtually no negative remarks. There were a couple comments about some difficulty hooking up an EQ to it though. Have you had any issues in that regards? I will probably hook up mine as I like to tone down the 1 hz area that voices are at; that way I can still hear the wife yelling at me to turn it down -- keeping peace in the family.

Fred / Whoa
My setup is odd to be sure, but my left side (4 ohm) set has twice+ the area to fill, and I think that recorded stereo separation overall prefers L to R movement over F to R movement.

My volume knob never goes past about -18 (about one third power).



That would only be true if your source had a constant output voltage that matched your amplifier's input sensitivity.

In other words, the position of the volume knob has nothing to do with available power. You can clip your amp at the "10:00 o'clock", "-30dB", or any other tick mark on the volume controls legend. It all depends on the signal that's feeding it and the amplifier's gain.

Thanks Jon,

I read the STICKY regarding impedance in the Solid State forum. Its well done, but I guess I really do have Attention Deficit Disorder, its a bigger read than I can handle now. But there is this info in the owners manual under "Technical Specifications" that can can allude to an "anything goes" impedance.

Dynamic Power
(8/6/4/2 Ohm) 140/170/220/290 W

With me and a couple buddies, and some liquid courage; After reading this, break-in day would throw caution to the wind with any concern of impedance rationale.

I know this of course doesn't mean we can jam on 2 ohm loads long into the night.

Hi Ohming,

The load impedance is really something else. The amplifier will amplify the small incoming voltage (CD player, Tape, etc) do make a larger voltage. That's part of the story.

The power amp output section adds current capability to this larger voltage so the voltage can be maintained into a low impedance load (speaker).

The volume knob controls how much of the low voltage signal is fed to the power amp that has fixed gain.

The thing is, the signal entering the volume control is more than enough (usually) to drive the amplifier beyond it's maximum operating point. So if the volume control was set to maximum, the amplifier could be overdriven by 400%, or more. So never assume that the volume control's setting has any relationship to power available. It's a common misconception. I just don't want you to damage your speakers or amplifier.

If you have a party, you can tell anybody messing with the volume control that that is not how it works. ...with auth-or-ri-taaay.

Thanks Jon, Great explanation. It's all clear now. This explains why different XM stations / CD input / phono / etc will all display different volume levels on the display, even though we have the music playing at a fairly consistent level no matter the source.

To go one thought next. If different scenario levels of source current are introduced, and the volume potentiometer is adjusted in each scenario to produce a consistent decibel level from the speakers, is the stress on the amp the same for each scenario.

Somehow I just know that there are probably factors missing. Well, Q & A is how we learn.

This explains why different XM stations / CD input / phono / etc will all display different volume levels on the display, even though we have the music playing at a fairly consistent level no matter the source. . ....egg-zactly



To go one thought next. If different scenario levels of source current are introduced, and the volume potentiometer is adjusted in each scenario to produce a consistent decibel level from the speakers, is the stress on the amp the same for each scenario. . Basically, yes. If the source material is the same. Different music, songs, talk radio, etc has differing peak to average levels, so it's too complex to be accurate. ...but basically Yes. If it's the same music but the sources have different output levels (iPod, CD, Tape, etc) and the volume knob compensates for the level differences, the amp's 'stress" will be identical.

I'm standing next to Elwood in a chapel in Chicago drenched in sunbeams and yelling back to James Brown at the pulpit "YES, I SEE THE LIGHT"