I'm in the process of restoring a nice BIC 980 for my daughter's 16th birthday (ssshhh, don't tell her). She'll be getting that along with new copies of some of her favourite Floyd albums (guess where she got exposed to such stuff:D) I got the table a few months back without a base or cover as it had been used in some sort of console arrangement with Mac gear. AK member jamesPclay has kindly sent me a 960 parts table from which I'm using the base and cover for the current project. The 960 itself will be a wealth of good bits to keep the 980 and a friend's 960 running for many years to come.

The base is lovely solid walnut and came up looking great with just a good cleaning and some Watco walnut oil finish.

The dust cover will be a bigger project to get looking good. There's a "sticky" with lots of ideas for dealing with the scratching, but I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for materials and methods for re-inforcing the cracked areas seen in the photos I've posted? Elderly acrylic dustcovers have a tendency to develop stress cracks around the back in the area of whatever type of hinges might have been used. Leaving them alone will only lead to them actually snapping off (as happened with the cover for my TD-125):tears: There needs to be some method for laminating some thin material onto those areas that would add support and spread the stress, preferably something clear and relatively invisible. I've a few vague ideas, but not enough expertise with materials to know what to use to do the job.

Any thoughts? I'll happily post photos of the results when it's all done!

Get a fine tubed eyedropper, a hypodermic needle would be perfect. Fill with acetone and let just enough flow to be sucked into the crack.

Get a fine tubed eyedropper, a hypodermic needle would be perfect. Fill with acetone and let just enough flow to be sucked into the crack.Now that's a cool idea! I'll grab a bit of acetone this afternoon and give it a try. Any thoughts on making those areas any stronger? I keep thinking there must be some sort of this acrylic film out there that could be almost invisibly bonded and would add the support of a bit of lamination to the equation. It wouldn't need to be be very thick, just enough to spread the load.....

They make adhesive solvents specifically for fusing acrylics. I would try one of those rather than acetone.

Get a fine tubed eyedropper, a hypodermic needle would be perfect. Fill with acetone and let just enough flow to be sucked into the crack.

I'd be extremely careful trying something like this. Any excess acetone
that flows onto the cover surface will probably dissolve the surface and make a mess.

You can find the right cement at a plastic sheet and rod supplier along with various thickness's of sheet material for reinforcement. If you don't have a store locally try these guys... www.USPlastic.com

When I worked for Fluor in the 70's we built 3/8" = 1"-0" scale models of the refinery or chemical plant we were designing. We used ethylene dichloride (EDC) to "weld" the plastic together. It's fairly nasty stuff, but worked well if handled safely. They didn't give us any PPE back in those days. They just said you don't want to get EDC in your eyes or have it around when you're having a smoke.

The dust cover will be a bigger project to get looking good. There's a "sticky" off (as happened with the cover for my TD-125):tears: There needs to be some method for laminating some thin material onto those areas that would add support and spread the stress, preferably something clear and relatively invisible. I've a few vague ideas, but not enough expertise with materials to know what to use to do the job.

Any thoughts? I'll happily post photos of the results when it's all done!

Some of my fellow outdoors enthusiast use a type of protective film for their vehicle headlights and hood. It is made by 3M http://www.xpel.com/.
It maybe too expensive for your application.

I have been using 5 minute Epoxy, just mix it up and let it drip off the end of mixer like a line, it self levels and its clear. Not as neat but its holds.

Thanks,
John.:music: