View Full Version : Power PCB for older LP12 ??


draconus
07-17-2009, 12:32 AM
Long shot it seems...sent emails, trawled the net, on the bay, searched in here.. but it seems the old power PCB for the older Linn LP12 (1980 pre-valhalla) is now nowhere to be found. Someone, somewhere must have these things available.

I have an earth hum problem which I am looking to fix...have found a few links suggesting ways to fix these. Followed these (mainly related to tonearm connections to the chassis etc). Tried all these but still get the hum.

It's not my phono stage as that is quiet as a mouse with my other TT.

So now down to replacing bits.... changed out the arm cable already. so thought about replacing the small PCB that sits between the power cord and the motor. I can probably replace the individual components, but thought it might just be as easy to get a replacement board.

No, don't want to go the valhalla or other route - prefer to keep my girl as original as possible.

Any idea as to where I might find such a PCB ? Or am I really looking at replacing the components myself ?

TIA

fxsuperglide
08-10-2009, 12:01 AM
If you are running a 3 wire plug, try disconnecting the ground (green) wire from the chassis. This caused me some problems on a few of my LP12 builds.

wow&flutter
08-14-2009, 03:20 PM
There us a Linn Basik Power supply for Sondek LP12 Turntable on the Uk Ebay site finishing 16 Aug, 2009 @19:52:26 BST:banana:

zoeinterloper
08-30-2009, 11:10 AM
When Valhalla boards are failing and needing re-capped, pray tell why would you want to run a pre-valhalla board? Who knows the condition of those old electronics, if there are any not residing in land fills. Not to mention that Valhalla boards are cheap (throw away) because many, many Sondek Lp12 owners have moved on to the improved sound and ease of push button 33 1/3 to 45 RPM functionality of Lingo I or II. Please don't misunderstand my intentions, with all due respect, I'm not trying to argue about something that is your choice. I'm just a bit curious why you would choose a more difficult route with IMHO less sonic benefit?

Happy (hunting and) Listening! :beatnik:

draconus
08-30-2009, 06:47 PM
When Valhalla boards are failing and needing re-capped, pray tell why would you want to run a pre-valhalla board? Who knows the condition of those old electronics, if there are any not residing in land fills. Not to mention that Valhalla boards are cheap (throw away) because many, many Sondek Lp12 owners have moved on to the improved sound and ease of push button 33 1/3 to 45 RPM functionality of Lingo I or II. Please don't misunderstand my intentions, with all due respect, I'm not trying to argue about something that is your choice. I'm just a bit curious why you would choose a more difficult route with IMHO less sonic benefit?

Happy (hunting and) Listening! :beatnik:

To be honest - I hadn't even considered this option. Tunnel vision I suppose. I also wasn't aware these things were that inexpensive now - hadn't done the research. I assume they are reasonably easy to fit. So how does one know if particular valhalla board is ok ?? Buy it and see I suppose ?

Many thanks for opening my eyes !

zoeinterloper
08-30-2009, 08:34 PM
Like you say, it's a bit of a grab bag unless... someone has a little electronic skill. I happen to have an old working valhalla board. Problem is, I think you and I are running different main, is that true? we're 110v on this side of the pond. Let me see, if I can take a snap shot of it and point out what parts generally go bad. There are three to five caps and I think a couple of diodes that usually become worse for the ware. Parts are available and somewhere on the web, maybe the Audio Asylum or Vinyl Engine might have the info... I'll look around for ya. Linn no longer sells fix packs to their dealers unfortunately. If you have some experience with a soldering iron or know a friend that does it will be a pretty cheap fix, like 30 USD in parts. I think a good (working) Valhalla board goes for under 200 USD on ebay. Hope that's not too much for you. A non working board could go for next to nothing.

Happy Listening! :beatnik:

draconus
08-31-2009, 01:22 AM
Like you say, it's a bit of a grab bag unless... someone has a little electronic skill. I happen to have an old working valhalla board. Problem is, I think you and I are running different main, is that true? we're 110v on this side of the pond. Let me see, if I can take a snap shot of it and point out what parts generally go bad. There are three to five caps and I think a couple of diodes that usually become worse for the ware. Parts are available and somewhere on the web, maybe the Audio Asylum or Vinyl Engine might have the info... I'll look around for ya. Linn no longer sells fix packs to their dealers unfortunately. If you have some experience with a soldering iron or know a friend that does it will be a pretty cheap fix, like 30 USD in parts. I think a good (working) Valhalla board goes for under 200 USD on ebay. Hope that's not too much for you. A non working board could go for next to nothing.

Happy Listening! :beatnik:

..been digging around and I can get a brand new Hercules II power supply from Stamford Audio in the UK for about AU$350 landed. Has the 33/45 switch too. Supposed to be an 'improved' version of the Valhalla. Any reason why this isn't a good idea ??

draconus
08-31-2009, 02:27 AM
..been digging around and I can get a brand new Hercules II power supply from Stamford Audio in the UK for about AU$350 landed. Has the 33/45 switch too. Supposed to be an 'improved' version of the Valhalla. Any reason why this isn't a good idea ??

...BTW does any body know what diameter the mounting holes are on the Valhalla or Hercules boards are ? The ones which the plastic lugs fit into.

TIA

zoeinterloper
08-31-2009, 05:59 PM
The Hercules is another great way to go, if the price is a value to you. I would go that route.

The board you show looks very much like the Valhalla board I have. Interestingly, the Valhalla board show fuse positions for both 110v and 240v.

Here's a shot of that early Valhalla board.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u44/zoeinterloper/ValhallaBoard.jpg

***A WORD OF CAUTION IN ANY EVENT. BE CAREFUL WITH THESE BOARDS, THEY CARRY A LETHAL CHARGE!!!***

Happy Listening! :beatnik:

draconus
08-31-2009, 06:59 PM
***A WORD OF CAUTION IN ANY EVENT. BE CAREFUL WITH THESE BOARDS, THEY CARRY A LETHAL CHARGE!!!***



ooh yeah. I'll be putting the baseboard back on the TT I think !

rkay5
02-28-2010, 04:17 AM
Hi,
Go have look at http://www.vinylengine.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9906&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15
and get a hold of Edmond123 the manufacturer of the Mose/Hercules and get the outboard psu the Mose/Hercules and get Lingo like power supply for around $350 I use one with my Thorens TD150 and I love what it does he can sell you one for your 60Hz motor or you can a new 50Hz motor and a 50Hz Mose/Hercules.:music:

stonedeaf
03-17-2010, 08:32 PM
What cart are you runnin in the Linn? Grado's for instance will humm (at least to some degree ) in AC motored LP-12's ( mine is right now on inner grooves).- I'm a little nuts -so I'm switching to a outboard mounted Valhalla - don't have a great expectation that this will kill the humm. To put it into perspective on my LP-12?rega RB-600 - the humm level isn't intrusive even with the very old original motor and 60Hz board (which is basically there only to keep the motor from starting in the wrong direction.
What cart ? How high is the humm level? Steady state or only as the arm approaches the motor ? Can you hear humm with the music playing -as loud as you ever play music ?