My neighbor was cleaning out his garage and was about to toss this in the trash, ZIKES SCOOB! Do you want it? Well, I might be able to find a place for it, I said, while trying not to crap my pants. I rode it home on my bike, don't try this at home folks. It is in very good condition inside and out, however there is no power cord. I can see the hole in the back panel where the cord goes in at, but where does it connect? I'd like to hook up a power cord to see if this thing works. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Andrew.

You need to pop the hood on that bad boy and trace it inside. Chances are there should be a stub of the power chord left inside and you can trace it the rest of the way to the terminal lugs.

I would check fuses while your in there. Not to mention its probably due for a good deoxit bath before you get it fired up.

Good scroe as we say here at AK. :)

OK guys, I took the cover off and this is what I found. Word picture here: there are two clipped wires coming off of the outermost electrical outlet labeled "uswitched total max 200va", am I correct in assuming that this is whats left of the power cord? If so, can I solder in a new cord? Finally, when I do hook up a new cord, does it matter which wire from the new cord is connected to the old wires, is there a wrong way to do it? Sorry if I appear stupid, I am a fuse/lightbulb/clean the pots and switches kind of guy and I just want to get power to this thing and see if it works. Thanks, Andrew

Well, hooked it up with lampcord, wire nuts, electrical tape and a loose woofer. Its alive, It plays music. I quickly pulled the plug as soon as I verified that it worked. Its a good day! Andrew.

As far as I am aware the hot side of the cord should be switched and not attached to the chassis. This is to avoid the chassis being hot which increase risk of getting zapped as far as I know.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/HBASE/electric/hsehld.html

Search polarized plugs. or Polarized plug chassis. Or similar.

Nice!! That must have been a bitch taking it home on a bike. Good luck with the clean up. It will be well worth it when it's done.

Congratulations! :thmbsp:
I can't imagine how you managed to ride it on your bike. :headscrat

you forgot to mention how many times you almost crapped yourself during the bike ride :sigh:
congrates, great piece there !!! :thmbsp:

Actually, I did not have any idea how heavy it was until I picked it up today. He told me it was too heavy to ride with, but I replied " I'm a big boy, I can handle it". I was in intense pain by the time I hit the end of the driveway, but my manly pride (ie-testosterone fueled stupidity) would not let me ride home and bring back the car. I'll keep you informed of updates, and yes, my wife married an idiot!

Shimniok is right. The chassis is designed to be ground in these units, which is connected to the neutral wire in your house wiring. Please check that you've maintained this wiring polarity. For example, if you're touching something grounded (like a water pipe in your basement) with one hand and touching the chassis (if wired hot) with the other deadly current could go across your heart rather than going through the Sansui. That happening would about end your listening.

You can tell polarity by either comparing the schematic with the chassis wiring or by looking at those outlets. The blade length of the hot and neutral plug blades are different. Just make sure your new power cord maintains this relationship. Happy listening!

Collin

No telling how many cords have been robbed off of working units over the years...... Good SCROE!

"No telling how many cords have been robbed off of working units over the years"

Ain't that the truth. :) I got a minty Sansui 5000x in a pile of stuff with no cord so no way to test it, solder on a cord and it was in great shape no static in the controls even.

Even if you do not get a polarized cord, i.e., the kind with one fat blade, all two prong AC linecords have identifying marks. This will be a ridge, or white stripe along one side. The majority of vintage equipment has that side of the cord connected to the chassis through a high value resistor.

Even if you do not get a polarized cord, i.e., the kind with one fat blade, all two prong AC linecords have identifying marks. This will be a ridge, or white stripe along one side. The majority of vintage equipment has that side of the cord connected to the chassis through a high value resistor.


By that token, is there a certain way one should plug the chord into a wall? Even if it's the old-timey chord where both prongs are the same size.

Follow-up question: The side with the ridge or white stripe you speak of...you're saying that's the ground side (-). So which side is hot on the newer chords: the fatter prong or the smaller one?