Help

I have a recently aquired 2245. Unit lights up, has 35 volts at power supply test points. NO Click

Where should I look from herer ? I am thinking bad cap on power supply board ???

R.

Some, like my 2015, lack the 'click'. I think it doesnt have the protecton relay. My 2230 is out of the rotation right now, but I think it doesn't have it either. I think yours is of the same era.

No doubt those here who know much more than I wil chime in shortly.

Possible short circuit in one channel........

Check for DC voltage at the 'common' pin(s) on the relay.

Thanks will check dc volts at relay. I suspect a capacitor on the power supply relay board.

No DC voltage present on the common pins of the relay. I suspect a shorted cap on the relay board

Check for DC voltage at the 'common' pin(s) on the relay.

No voltage present on common pins

No voltage present on common pinsThat's too vague a statement. If you're measuring the output of each amp channel at the common terminals of the relay, you should be seeing the DC offset from each channel, and I can promise you it isn't zero.

Since that's what you say you measured, I suspect your measuring points or procedures may be in error.

Here's the thing: You have two major possibilities...one or both amp channels is bOrked and the protection circuitry is seeing too much offset and preventing the relay from closing, OR the output of the amp channels is fine, and the protection circuitry is at fault. Your job is to eliminate the first possibility...that one or both of the amp channels has an issue. If the DC output of each of the amp channels is reasonable (under 500mV), then the fault lies with the protection circuitry (weak driver transistor(s) and/or dried-up electrolytic caps).

Great, I will rule out the power amps then re-cap the borad. the unit is very clean inside and has very low hours. to be continued

Thanks !

Ok here is an update;

Re-capped the p800 p/s relay board = no change no click

Disconnected both p700 power amps = no change no click

checking main filter caps resistance with swing meter one swings over smoothly

one swings over very quickly / snaps over past 0, I believe the cap is dead shorted

Have you tried isolating the power amp board from the circuit to see if it will come out of protection ?



Barney

Yes disconnected both of them no change

Echowars:

Yes there was high dc voltage on one of the yellow wire relay terminals ( around 93 mv ). the other side was about 2 mv. I was able to adjust the 93 mv left channel down to about 1 or 2 mv. Still no click in protect.. I suspect the left power amp board the one with the high dc volts. going to disconnect it and see what happans

You'd need a couple of volts before the protection would prevent the relay from engaging. 93mV is not enough to do it by a longshot.

The money is on one of these four caps, or one of these three transistors.

Thanks will proceed with that

Also looks like the relay was changed, resoldered crappy solder job, two yellow wires on one side, two dk blue on the other

Echowars:

Could I possibly have a bad relay ? It shows signs of being replaced, crappy solder job I resoldered the main metal housing piece that comes up from the board where the spring attaches imoves a bit ?? have to verify the wiring as well cant trust it

changed all three transistors, all caps on board. still no chlick

disconnected both left and right power ams from circuit, still no click

someon before me had changed the relay is it possible to install the relay wrong ? maybe reversing the yellow or dark blue wires ??

Help

You can remove the relay and check the resistance of the coil. It's a very rare event, but a relay coil can open up.

You're sure that the DC offset of both channels is low? And that the relay coil has a good voltage supply (measure the voltage on both sides of R818 [470 ohm])? Also check the protection diode (H813), and look for burnt or badly soldered resistors. You're also certain that you installed the new transistors correctly??

I think the relay coil is open. one of the fine wires that go to the white coil is disconnected. the base of the relay was loose from the coil part, causing it to move about.

the other question I have is the yellow speaker connector wires and the dark blue amp ones how can you tell left from right channels ?

I am goin to replace the relay and want to be sure left and right speaker to left right amp connection properly

Schematic says J813 comes from the L channel amp output, and J814 comes from R channel amp output, but Marantz manuals run a close second to Sansui for errors.

Guess that relay coil should have been checked a little sooner, eh? ;) In your defense, it's a pretty unusual failure.

Yes unusual failure, I kept looking at the crappy solder job someone did on the relay terminals, and was not happy with the way the relay was loose and moved around abit. thats prob what caused those fine wires to disconnect

thansk for all your help