View Full Version : Look into my eye... Fisher XP7 refurb

Ed in SoDak
01-15-2005, 01:30 PM
Here's step one of rebuilding my Fisher XP-7 speakers. We've been talking about their relative merits in the speaker forum. My take is they are tube-amp speakers and not up to modern high-power stuff. Still, they have a coolness and they're original, so we'll see what we can do to get them back in working order without buying any new parts.

I'm not sure if the sound will be worth the effort, but we're going to try!

First off is the orange-eye dome tweeters. They're assembled with nothing more than tape, which has long ago lost all adhesive. The suspension is short strips of rubber, now hard and brittle.

I popped off the side caps by gently prying under the lip with the point of a knife. A small pad of insulation was glued in on both sides, the only glue I've found so far that still held!

Here's a pic showing the internals. Next step will be to remove the tape and get the dome out of the basket so we can glue in new rubber strips.


Ed in SoDak
01-16-2005, 02:11 AM
The tweeter above was overheated, this caused the rubber to melt and stick. So I moved on to the other one. The dome was tilted and stuck in that position but the rubber was a little more live. There was evidence of the coil rubbing but it didn't wear through.

Once apart, you could see what was left of the odd little rubber suspension. Looked like an octopus with all its tentacles chopped into Vienna sausage. The inside of the dome was filled with neatly cut disks of insulation.

Ed in SoDak
01-16-2005, 02:15 AM
...had the weekend off. Here's all the pieces of the tweeter.

Ed in SoDak
01-16-2005, 02:25 AM
Thanks to another thread here, I learned these are supposed to have an outer surround. A ring of chamois was used as a replacement and no attempt was made to replace the octopus with anything as all I could think of for that was a condom and I was fresh out!

The chamois let the cone move quite freely. The sound was nice for a midrange but not for a tweeter, so I stiffened the chamois with a coat of Vinac. I don't have a properly working original to compare it with, to me it is still a bit subdued in volume, but it seems to work fine.

Here it is back in the cabinet.

Ed in SoDak
01-16-2005, 02:35 AM
A shot of the entire front, with handwritten inspection "OK."

That was then, this is now. We still have the woofer and maybe a midrange to disassemble and repair next session.

I had a good listening session with them today, with substitute tweeters installed. They were actually brighter-sounding than most of my speaks. With the dome back in, it is a much closer match to the XP7B but is still a bit weak in the bass. It also seems slightly more efficient than the B.

My opinion of it keeps changing as I listen to different things on a couple amps, not to mention the tweeter alterations. I'm liking them more as I go, but still doubt it could keep up with the NS-500's on the big system. As I dig further into it, looks like overdriving is what got them into the shape they're in. One is definitely worse off than the other.

This model has no level adjustment, while the B has a 3 position switch. The cabinets are identical in size but again the B has some added detailing that helps set off the front better.

Next time we'll also take some pics showing the differences between the drivers in the XP7 and the XP7B.


Ed in SoDak
01-19-2005, 02:02 AM
Nobody seems to care much about this XP7 thread so we'll post the comparo shots and call it a day.

In all cases the XP7B is the better-looking part. Um, the painted ones.

The XP7's woofers just have weak spiders so I should be able to get them going without hassle. One egg tweet is still stuck, but if we keep these they will go anyway. Ron's sending me his so there's still a chance to make up a pair of working tweets.

One inductor came loose, so we have to check that out too. That's about it for the internals on these two similar but very different speakers.

The woofers:

Ed in SoDak
01-19-2005, 02:04 AM
the mids...

Ed in SoDak
01-19-2005, 02:06 AM
The crossovers... [EDIT] Shown first is the XP7, then the XP7B, finally a crude schematic of the earlier XP7. Can't wrap my mind around the reversed woofer polarity.


01-19-2005, 07:15 AM
Hi Ed.

Looks to me like you are a patient man who also takes great pride in both servicing and restoring vintage equipment. Good thread and good work done.

I doubt that there is a lack of interest in your work. I do not vit DIY often and opened your thread only out of curiosity as I had no idea of what a Fisher XP-7 was.

Perhaps if it had been posted in the speaker forum you might have got a few more people looking at it. If I were you, I would ask the admins to see if your thread can be moved to the Speakers forum, where I think it belongs. You may find that you will help some others with similar spkrs or at least find more people are interested in your work than you think.


01-19-2005, 08:22 AM

Did you take that little octopus thing completely off the tweet, or just leave it as it was?


Ed in SoDak
01-19-2005, 10:53 AM
Hi Joe,

Thanks for the reply. I'm anxiously patient I guess. I can wait a long time but when I'm ready to go, I'm full tilt. Drives my wife nuts! I mentioned in another thread I'd be posting the Fisher info here, maybe just adding a link there would be what's needed.

It's a speaker battleground here, got 4 pairs and a couple oddballs I'm testing now. Rebuilding my Yamaha NS-500's too.

Clay, I removed the octopus. Didn't see any way I could rebuild or fabricate anything like it. With the rubber gone the voicecoil gap is pretty big. I tried to make up for the missing compliance by slightly stiffening the chamois. The rebuild just had way too much travel as it stood.

It has a nice, smooth sound but is weak in output compared to the other drivers in the XP7. The crossover is next on the list to see if there's leaky capacitors or other issues besides the inductor that's hanging free.


01-19-2005, 11:10 PM
Ed, it may not be a lack of interest as much as letting you finish your thread out. Many times, if people start butting in and commenting, it turns off topic and the thread isn't nearly as useful as a DIY thread. This has happened in the past, so most mambers just respectfully peek in and see how it is going and wait till it's done to comment.
I personally am in awe of you taking the tweets apart :jawdrop: , gives me insperation to break a few of my speaks while trying to fix them.

Ed in SoDak
01-20-2005, 11:18 AM
Thanks, VJ, guess I derailed my own thread... ;-)

The complicated stuff's about done, I'm swapping some speaks in to see if there's any difference.

I put the XP7B woofer into the XP7 box for a day or two while I was working on the original woofer. At low volumes, the two woofers sound about the same, but I give the nod to the newer version for a bit stronger and lower bass.

Wiped the powdered corrosion stuff off the basket and gave it a spray of clear-coat on the back so it could be handled without spreading that stuff all over. The mids are covered with this junk too.

Got the woofer's spider stiffened up a bit with multiple applications of Vinac, which is special beads of PVC dissolved in Acetone. This still didn't stop it from bottoming too easily with the finger test. I'm wondering what the bottoms of the voicecoils look like, but haven't gone that far yet. Installing them into their sealed cabinets doesn't stiffen things up much more either, so I've still got my doubts these will serve in my big system.

Swapped in a more modern mid and tweet last night, now we're starting to change the sound.

I've tried rebuilding tweeters before and never had much success till just last week on one of the XP7B's tweets. That gave me the confidence to tackle the fried egg tweets.

On other fronts, I got the Yamaha NS-500 woofer reconed successfully and gave that its first test last night. Then I rebuilt a brand new $10 woofer that wasn't aligned properly from the factory, figuring it would cost almost as much to return it for exchange as I'd paid. Got lucky on that one and was able to hide where I sliced it apart behind the giant dust cap.

Getting closer to doing some serious listening tests. I'm playing with 5 different pairs of speakers I hope to narrow down to two pairs. But it's been real hard deciding which ones, since I want to keep them all. The wife's already figured she'll come home from her trip to find quad stacks in the living room, so this could work out well! ;-)


01-21-2005, 12:21 AM
Great thread! Now I'm prepared to take on my XP-7s!!! Thanks, Man!

Ed in SoDak
01-21-2005, 10:53 AM
CU, Glad it was of some help! Stick around, we're not done yet. I'm beginning to wonder about the project. Guess I was hoping it would be a couple easy fixes and on to the listening. Looks like we'll have to go into everything in both speaks before we can call it good.

I decided at least one of the woofers must come apart, it still rubs and travels too far too easily. The other one doesn't rub but is also "floppy." This is probably from being overdriven for too long, just flexed out to the max.

I'm messing with the XP7B at the same time, looked into its crossover last night. Looks like it's a 4-way, as the two mids each have their own capacitor and inductor. The tweeters are in parallel but have a resistor in series besides the control on the back. One of the mids is shot and will need a rebuild too. I've already repaired one of the tweeters in this speaker. I have no mate for this one, but if it compares well once we're done, I might look for another of those and let these XP7's go.

[EDIT] Added pics of the XP7 and the XP7B in as-received condition, then the XP7 cabinets as I've modified them. I used the B woofer along with a nearly matched woofer a friend had, new (non-matching) tweets and the original alnico mids. I made a couple changes to the crossovers as well.


Yamaha B-2
01-21-2005, 11:01 AM
Nice work on the Fishers. You are obviously an exacting tech.

Which NS-500 set do you have? The 2-way with the Be dome tweeter or the 3-way with non-Be domed mid/tweeter? If it is the 3-way, can you post a pic? Thanks.

Ed in SoDak
01-22-2005, 01:08 AM
Thanks, YB-2! Don't know how exacting I am, but with speakers, I just go slow and careful. Had too many quick jobs go bad! It's probably a good thing I don't have to bill anyone on this, just trying to please myself.

I can gut 'em and get 'em back together easy enough. The real challenge is hiding the fact and having them work right afterwards. Sometimes you can only have one or the other, in which case I'll take working every time!

Edit: Forgot to say my NS-500's are the two-way. I believe these must be the Beryllium tweets. Unfortunately, they were blown and are hidden in a box somewhere in my shed! I have a map I got from a grizzled old fortune-teller. Treasure hunt and tweeter rebuild planned soon.


Ed in SoDak
01-22-2005, 03:01 AM
But I don't, so I just change my avatar! That's the Goodyear Rubber Band, by the way.

Well, tore into the woofer tonite. The rubbing and bottoming got to me.
First we slice the dustcap off as it might tell us something that would avoid a total teardown.

This one is see-though fabric, so I can't make a hidden index cut. Instead, I put a piece of tape on it to help realign it later. Usually the cut wavers enough that parts can repositioned using only the slight curves and notches as a guide.

Ed in SoDak
01-22-2005, 03:05 AM
By flexing the cone far enough upwards that we clear the voice coil gap, we see what the problem is. The hammered coil edge has folded inwards. The arrow on the tape points it out.

Ed in SoDak
01-22-2005, 03:13 AM
Here's how I flexed the speaker outwards to inspect the gap. Note the extreme flex this cloth surround allows.

Ed in SoDak
01-22-2005, 03:17 AM
Well, I could smooth that ragged coil edge back with a knife, but that might leave bits in the gap and we still don't know the condition of the coice coil wires, etc.

So, next we slice a ring through the cone. I try to choose a spot that can be hidden in reassembly. Too close to the center, it is hard to realign, too close to the outer edge is also hard to align and can flex with stress or interfere with the surround, so we usually choose a mid-point somewhere on the side.

At this point, you are commited to either ruining the speaker if the repair does not take or at best, having a speaker with some visible evidence of the repair. Since it was shit anyway, we take the plunge. The paper is not very stiff and very fibrous, this is gonna leave a mark!

Ed in SoDak
01-22-2005, 03:19 AM
Ohh, that's gotta hurt, but I have to get in there somehow.

This one has a raised edge, which should be pretty stiff anyway, so I can slice there and mostly hide the damage later when I reglue. In this case, we actually have a new spider, so it's not as important to keep this one intact. Still, we do, just 'cause ya never know.

Ed in SoDak
01-22-2005, 03:29 AM
Now we can see the coil and all the internals. Not bad, really. I half-expected failed coil glue and wiggly, loose wires to contend with.

On this one, it's a paper former with foil cover. I see a loose foil edge, so I nail it with thick super glue and coat the coil with Vinac just because we don't want loose wires later on.

Some light sandpapering and fine-honing of that ragged edge is all it really appears to need. No prob, but can we get it back together? Doubts arise, but what the hey, we're already over the edge.

Ed in SoDak
01-22-2005, 03:41 AM
...multiple pics.

Another angle of the coil...

Pretty obvious this is not a sealed speaker. I can see throught the surround and breathe through it easily. I might rubber cement the back side before reassembly.

Last for tonite is a shot of it with the new spider. Test realignments show this one will be touchy. The floppy cone and ragged, soft paper will make it a challenge, but the new spider will help a lot. I could just install a new cone with surround, as the stock size from MAT is a perfect fit, but that's not the point here. We're trying to keep as much of the original speaker as possible. I'm replacing the spider as the old one is what controls the cone and it's shot, even after stiffening it with Vinac. If it fails, I can always junk this attempt and do the total recone later if need be.


Ed in SoDak
01-24-2005, 03:38 AM
No new pics yet, but I did get the cone glued back in and I'm listening to it now on an old Hallicrafterss radio. No rubbing- sounds OK- yeah!- but the spider is not glued on yet so I still have a chance or two to screw it up.

The new spider- I just glued that onto a thin flange I left of the old one. I hoped this would lessen the stress of totally removing the old spider while also slightly raising the coil out of the gap by the thickness of the spider. Good plan, it did seem to lessen the tendencies of bottoming out, but I can still easily manually push the cone in far enough to bottom.

Not a high-power rock-out SS speaker, I'm afraid! But that's what I've said all along.


01-24-2005, 07:01 AM
Great thread!

Gave me the incentive to attempt repairs on a blown tweeter that has been staring at me.

thanks for the gentle nudge.

Ed in SoDak
01-24-2005, 07:28 PM
Good luck with the project! Fine wires and tight quarters. I have no idea why I spend hours working on a three dollar tweeter. Well, cool when it works after and no loss if it don't!


Ed in SoDak
01-25-2005, 12:05 PM
Hi Butch.

Well, not burst your bubble but these seem fairly "unknown" and thus do not have a big market. I paid $13.50 for my pair though shipping was $50. Another here found a pair for $15 local.

As mentioned, it's not too likely the tweeters are still working and the speaker is best suited for low-power or tubes. So, while "cool" and really pretty nice speakers, they just aren't going to climb very far. Your mileage may vary!


Ed in SoDak
01-29-2005, 07:10 PM
Hi Roger,

You never know! I suppose I am kinda stuck with this earlier pair that's seen better days and I have almost 80 bucks and many hours invested already. I probably coulda picked a nicer pair locally for that much money, but instead I chose these from Jersey, shipped to South Dakota. I was hoping for a closer match to the "B" model, turns out it's mostly the cabinets that are nearly identical, all the "guts" are different.

As you say the cabinets are prime for upgrading. Lots of holes in there already! I'm restoring one with original drivers and swapping newer drivers in the other one to compare the results.

While this is a low-dollar speaker, the other components you mention might have a better reception here. Why don't you list the models here or in a new thread?


Ed in SoDak
01-29-2005, 10:16 PM
I've traced the wiring and it's a bit unusual. Two resistor, two caps and two inductors series/parallel on the series-wired mids, series cap and inductor in parallel on the woofer with only a series cap for the tweeter. Found one bad factory solder joint (green arrow). Note the white positive woofer wire (red arrow) going to the negative buss. Odd.

[EDIT] Crossover pics are in an earlier post in this thread. Here's a pic of the crossover with an inductor hanging. It must have come loose in shipping, I'm just glad it didn't go flying into a cone!

More later.

Ed in SoDak
04-15-2005, 02:41 AM
It's later, and I still have 'em. But there's not much original left except one midrange and a modified crossover. New woofers, one new mid in each box and new tweeters fixed most of my problems.

Bumping this thread with the minor update, since there's been several new posts on Fisher speakers.


Ed in SoDak
02-11-2007, 03:52 PM
Here we are, another year or two later and I still have the Fisher XP7 systems. I should get a matching pair of tweeters in there, but these sound similar enough. One is from a Yamaha NS25 and the other is a Pioneer I bought from Parts Express. I went back to the original mids, and cobbled in a level control on one of them for testing, seen hanging out the front. At some point, I'll revisit these and make more changes.

Just finished reposting all the missing pics. For some reason, they had all disappeared awhile back. Here's a shot of how I have them set up today and a pic of the woofer with shims installed I missed placing earlier. This was taken while regluing the cone back into the frame.

I hope some people have found this thread useful. The techniques shown would apply to almost any speaker where the original surround was being reused, and illustrates how the inside of the voicecoil looks.


02-11-2007, 05:34 PM
I'm curious why you cut the woofer cone rather than separating the surround from the basket when you wanted access to the voice coil. I've done similar things several times, but always was able to get the surround off the basket. It seems to me that cutting the cone and then gluing it back together is kind of like making a Altec Biflex out of it -- which might or might not be a good thing.
I'm glad you didn't shut down the thread earlier -- its very interesting and inspirational.

Ed in SoDak
02-11-2007, 07:50 PM
Hi Nat,

The glued edge doesn't seem to flex independantly or "hinge." It's a method I came up with as a kid and one I fall back on when I don't want to mess with the surround.

I suppose with solvents and care, the gasket and surround could be worked free. The cloth on these was pretty wimpy, I doubted my ability to get it worked back in place with no wrinkles or deforming.

These old Fishers are not drivers to be over-amped. Keeping cone travel in check that way, I don't feel I lost anything by opening it up where I did.

I guess it's more my own method than any particular carefully considered reasoning, but if I'm not messing with the surround, I leave it in place and slice the cone instead. I usually use super glue to reattach the slice. Thin to soak in a bit and stiffen the cut edge, thick to do the attaching. Sometimes I'll apply a thin coat of something to the back of the cone if it feels too floppy. Other times, it seems like the speaker designer wanted some "flex" in the cone itself as the paper is more "limp" to begin with. Lots of variations in cone material, I try to retain the original action or intent, but I've also modified things to increase or restrict cone travel so it suits my own tastes.

Thanks for your comment!

10-13-2008, 05:25 PM
Cool. I got a thing for old fisher too, looks were there for sure.

Neat tidbit, the xp7 cabinets were assembled first, early production
had to have the woofers trimmed to fit in the case. bout 1/4" on each edge.
the cover frame did not allow enough room to slide in the woofer.

also, the surrounds mentioned on the tweeters are really just dust guards.
they do not physically touch the dome, plain old foam circle.

Looking forward to your next mission(lesson)

10-13-2008, 09:25 PM
Ed, I didn't read everything but you have given us (and me) a lot of info!

From what I have learned, the "fried egg" tweeters never had a "high output" as compared to later day tweets. :sigh:

I replicated the spider from a computer printed drawing on paper, placed it on top of a piece cut from the back and palm of a "nitrile disposable glove" and another piece of paper, cutting all 3 with sharp scissors.

Thin foam was used for a surround (dust cover) and surrounded by a thicker foam with a sticky back used for the fronts of tweeters installed flush with a cabinet front.

Now to the woofers, it is a given that the fabric surround will become porous and leak air over time, easy fix for this is a few coats of rubber cement to seal the cloth.:thmbsp:

Hope this helps!

Mark T.:music:

10-18-2008, 04:14 PM
My Xp-9c speakers have the woofers in reverse polarity also. Perhaps this tied in to what they say about Avery Fisher's speaker preferences: rolled off in the top, with a prevalent midrange. Putting the woofer out of phase with the high's/mid's would likely make for some interesting effects on system performance. But, as long as both woofers were in phase to one another, which they seem to be in our case, what would this actually accomplish?

I fixed mine, and they sound "different". Not necessarily better.

The x-over needs some tweaking.

My dome tweeters actually have a decent output when run from the right amp. Dunno about the XP-7s but my 9s love tube power. They downright SING with the 500-c Fisher. But, the mids are dominant. Can be annoying with certain music.

As a side note, when I put the tweeter controls on the rears to '+' it sounds as if the mids are boosted. Bet those pots could use a replacement/upgrade.

10-18-2008, 09:50 PM
I'm curious if your comments about dominant mids came after you 'fixed' them. In three ways often having the mids opposite phase to the woofer can smooth out the response, whereas having both in phase leads to a boost in the crossover region. Before people worried much about linear phase, this was a no brainer. Even after linear phase became a design criterion, there remains considerable lack of unanimity on the cost/benefit tradeoff -- linear phase or linear frequency. In an ideal world, you'd have both, but with real world cost cosiderations taken into account, often the only way to have both is to pay more. And not everyone is convinced that the benefits are as audible as is the penalty of making up the cost difference by cheaper drivers.

02-04-2009, 12:48 PM

What a great thread!

I have acquired a pair of XP-7s to go along with my Fisher 400. They seem to be in pretty good shape and sound good to me but I was not wearing my hearing aids at the time.
I will at least recap them and maybe look into the tweeters.
I do not see any signs of there ever being an outer surround.
What is Vinac, where can I get it?
Is there anything new that can be added on restoring or upgrading them?

Thank you

06-21-2009, 06:56 PM
So should I get a pair of XP -7c? They are 10 minutes driving from me.

Ed in SoDak
08-25-2009, 11:27 PM
Heheh, where are we, some 4 years and a few months later and I'm still receiving a PM or two about these old Fishers. And new posts to the thread as well.

Sancho, I don't know about the 7C model, but if it follows the B well, it oughta be halfway decent. PICS??

Vinac is a PVA glue (Polyvinyl Acetate) dissolved in acetone. Watered-down white glue is about the same thing, just a different thinner (water). is one source, it's commonly used to help preserve fossils.

Since I wrote this thread, I learned more about the "reversed" polarities of the woofers to the other drivers. It does have something to do with the phase of the crossover network as much as DC polarity of the drivers and I've seen it used elsewhere. I guess ol' Avery Fisher would sit down and do the final adjusting on speaker crossovers himself, seated on a chair in front of the speaker.

Mark, good tips on replicating the octopus! Saw pics of that somewhere along the line... Good comments from Nat on the phasing as well.

So, the tweeter surround is just a dust cover, eh? I made mine into a working surround, since I abandoned the octopus. Perhaps no surprise I didn't care for the sound after my fix.

FDwrench, you can make out a faint circle on the metal plate of your tweeter. The outer gap of the voicecoil in your speaker is open to entry by dust and whatever magnetic grit might get in there. I see mine have blanks for the third midrange to make them into the XP9 model, while yours do not. Interesting, maybe they'd run out of XP7 blanks the day mine were made.

I still have these ol' puppies, looking about the same as where we left off with 'em. I have since ordered a big selection of drivers. Might be time to do more experimentin'!


08-26-2009, 08:06 AM
Heheh, where are we, some 4 years and a few months later......

Frankly, yours is one of the more interesting threads on the site. I had no idea Fisher used a proprietary dome tweeter and an alnico one at that! A couple questions -

Has anyone identified it as produced by Fisher or another vendor?

Does it have an EIA identification number on it anywhere?

Is the dome phenolic?

You mentioned early on about finding the woofer wired out-of-phase. Wiring a driver electrically out-of-phase is not uncommon. Some crossover types require it. What the designers are looking for is acoustically in-phase. Under measurement they might have seen better response with the wiring as you found it.

Re: the tweeter, the chamois surround was a neat trick. There are some issues however with replicating the original performances you noted. The voice-coil needs to be both centered in the gap but at the correct height as well. Typically the winding height of the coil must be evenly presented relative to the top plate thickness & top of the pole. Variations on this will not only affect the response but how it performs compared to the other one. In production the manufacturer uses gauges to maintain consistency. All of that info unfortunately is certainly at the bottom of a Long Island land-fill. Still, getting them to play again is a real achievement.


(Your thread got me thinking about other rebuild strategies too. A foam-rubber disc sized to the ID of the dome could be glued on top of the pole for example. It could be shimmed to center it on the pole and then dome glued to it. The dome would center upon the foam so the voice-coil would center in the gap. A drill-press (OFF) with a dowel could seat the dome at a consistent height that was verified with a micrometer. Real Wile- E. Coyote stuff but I think it could work.)

Ed in SoDak
08-27-2009, 04:57 PM
Thanks! All I really did was post my progress as I learned things about the Fishers.

A lot of people seem to like the original XP7, but it wasn't the sound for me. In the end I replaced all the drivers. The only Fisher driver left is the lone woofer from the XP7B cabinet, which I transferred to one of XP7 boxes.

I still have the original drivers stored away. I searched for the tweeters to look for a number, but couldn't lay my hands on 'em. Buried under fresh acquisitions somewhere. The pics show a "T-200" stamped on the face.

I think I read a thread here on AK long ago that Avery Fisher contracted out for these, built to his specs. Not sure if they were the first domes, or maybe he modeled them after AR's. Haven't located that thread yet.

The foam disc idea might be a good one. Might find one already cut at a craft store or maybe as a pre-punched self-adhesive disc at a hardware store. I'd doubt my abilities to make a perfect disc myself from a sheet. Hmm, I'll have to give this some thought and try again to locate my fried eggs.

Just for the historical perspective of recreating it to see how it sounded. My own opinion is that modern domes are lighter, stiffer and more transient in response. The Fisher fried egg tweets seem to me to be a much better mid-range dome than as a tweeter.


06-02-2010, 04:01 PM
I know this is an old thread, but maybe I can get a few answers. I just got me a pair of Fisher XP 7's today at a thrift store. Picked them up cause I thought they looked cool and they would go with my Fisher 500-TX. They are a little worn out. What would be good replacements for the speakers etc? Also need it to be cheap. Thanks

06-20-2010, 05:07 PM
I think the origin of the dome tweeters has been discussed before, but I believe the guy who founded Phase Tec made them for Fisher. He was out on Long Island at the time, and actually holds the patents on some aspect of dome tweeters -- its hard to believe he could actually patent the dome tweeter since AR made them before he did, so perhaps its soft dome tweeters. He moved at some point to Florida, which is where Phase Tec is.
Warning -- this is all off the top of my rather old head, so specifics might be misremembered.

05-27-2011, 11:51 AM
I have acquired a pair of Fisher XP7B speakers, the drivers are in great shape, cone tweeter rather than the fried eggs, but one woofer has no foam. The other has what appears to be a paper acordian edge, does anyone know where I can get a new edge for my woofer?



12-28-2014, 03:23 PM

The power of the Internet! This is great and thank you for your thoughtful and generous time. Like others above I picked up these cabinets from a thrift store as a project and I have no idea about the inner workings of speaker cabinets. This thread will be very useful for me over the coming months.

I also enjoyed ed's inner battle of the futility of the postings, overcoming it, then adding a bit more drama to each post before wrapping it up.

Thanks ed!