View Full Version : Sony PS-FL1 Anybody/

05-20-2005, 01:40 PM
Hello fellow audionuts:
Man this is a great hobby but trying to get those "freebies" working right can lead to baldness. The latest thing that's got me pulling out my hair is a sony ps-fl1TT
that a neighbor gave me. This is a TT that pops out when you press a button, then retracts to play the record. Well, that's what it's supposed to do. This one retracts and the platter spins but the needle won't drop down.

Anybody have one of these? Or have some ideas? My usual MO is to reduce an otherwise nice item into worthless junk by "repairing" it only to find out later that there was some simple fix.

Any help would be appreciated. By the way, this is one of the most courteous forums I've ever seen. You must have a great sargent at arms.

Looking forward to joining the fun!


05-21-2005, 01:17 AM
The main common fault of all the FL series is the arm not being able to travel all the way to the end of the platter/record.
The needle not going down... I don't know. Are the arm&cart properly setup & screwed on?

First check the belts inside - dead belt, loose belt, worn-out belt or all-of-that belt.

02-06-2007, 01:43 PM
I know this is an ancient thread, but i fixed this same fault in my PS-FL1 yesterday.

This turntable uses an optical sensor to detect the edge of the record. Not very well, but it senses the difference between 12" and not-12" at least.

The sensor depends on a light that's at the far end of the turntable. This turns out to be a 5mm incandescent light bulb rated at 8 volts 5ma. If this bulb burns out, the sensor doesn't work, and the turntable will decline to drop the tone arm.

Mine was burned out. I replaced it with a similar bulb - rated for 14v - and my PS-FL1 works fine again. You should be able to find this sort of bulb at any auto parts store -- they are typically used to light up a car's instrument panel.

To replace it, do the following:

Lock the tone-arm in place and remove the rubber pad and cast aluminum turntable. the aluminum plate lifts straight up.

Turn the unit upside-down and remove the screws holding on the bottom plate there are three along the back, two on each side, and one in the middle. These are the screws that have an arrow pointing at them stamped into the sheet metal.

Lift up the plate from the front of the record player first. You will need to free the wiring harness from two retention clips at the back of the record player to lift the plate off completely.

You should see two small white wires leading through a hole at the back of the turntable. There are two small screws on either side of the hole. Remove these screws.

The bracket and lens assembly that holds the bulb will fall out of their own accord once the screws are removed.

You will need some slack on the white wires. There should be a couple inches bundled up near the pc board into which they terminate. You can free this up and pull some slack through the wiring harness.

Unfortunately you can't remove the bulb from the bottom side. Flip the record player right-side-up and remove the top of the case. You will need to remove the access panel on the top, and then remove the two screws on either side of the case.

You can now pull the bulb up through the hole a few inches, clip off the wires, slide a half-inch of heat-shrink tubing over the end of each wire, strip off some insulation, solder in your new bulb, and shrink on the insulation.

It may turn out that your bulb is slightly larger in diameter than the original. Use a drill bit (held in a gloved hand, not in a drill) to ream out the bracket if this is the case.

Insert the bulb into the bracket, slide the lens back into place (the thicker end of the lens goes at the top), and seat the assembly back in place. Use a piece of tape to hold it in place.

Turn the record player over again, take the slack back up on the white wires, and reinstall the small screws that hold the light assembly.

fasten the wiring harness back to the bottom plate taking care to ensure that the wiring harness does not interfere with the drawer mechanism. Replace bottom plate and screws.

Turn the record player right-side-up, remove tape from light assembly, un-lock the tone arm, and reinstall the top of the case and the access panel.

Power up the record player, press the eject, and reinstall the aluminum turntable plate and rubber mat, taking care to align the protrusions on the bottom of the mat with the holes in the aluminum plate.


02-06-2007, 05:41 PM
Hi Eric, Welcome to AK! We are honored that your very first post is such an incredible contribution to this forum. :tresbon: Thank you for taking the time to write it all out. I'm sure it will be of immense help to someone in the future. :yes:

02-06-2007, 05:52 PM
Hi! good to be here.

I found this thread when i was googling for ideas. I didn't find anything promising, and then thought "Hey, didn't that thing at the back used to glow?"

It's such an obtuse fix that i figured it needed to be recorded somewhere.

03-26-2011, 04:43 PM
Hi guys.....came across a FL-1....everything seems to work ok....Except.....does anyone who has one of these knows what type of tiny screw or whatever piece that connects the two arms that raise up when the turntables closes to the plastic cover piece???? I have the cover ...the arms are there......but the screws seem to be hard to find out what I need......Thanks much...Danny

12-29-2012, 04:55 PM
First of all I want to thank Ericj for a wonderful article here on fixing the common problem of the Sony PS FL1's arm not lowering onto the record. Sure enough the miniature lamp at the rear of the deck had burnt out just as explained here and elsewhere on the internet. Finding ericj's detailed fix was a God-send in repairing my problem.

Even though this is an older post for an older machine, there are still plenty of these being used out there so I would like to add a couple things that I did to help the next guy do the same thing.

I followed the above procedure to a tee but instead of using a bulb from the Auto Supply I used a miniature bulb from Radioshack, their part number is 272-1141. From the picture I have uploaded you can see the bulb is only slightly bigger than the original bulb an the right. The RS bulb is rated at 12 volts and 25ma and has 1 3/4" leads, and has done the trick for me. I will also add that I ran a number 30 drill thru the entire bulb mounting, and then followed up with a number 13 drill 1/2 way thru the same mounting. This gave a really nice and tight fit to the bulb. I did not have to make any modifications to the bulb cap as it did fit but tightly also.

Thanks again Ericj for going above and beyond in detailing your repair procedure. :music:

03-30-2013, 03:44 PM
I know this is an old thread but this is where the information is. I replaced the bulb inmine today as per instructions but the arm still wont lower. I hit play, the arm goes over the record but wont lower. Any ideas ?

05-03-2013, 10:18 PM
Somewhat related to the topic, but my bulb went out today and I still had no problems as I played a few records just fine.

I'm not sure if eventually it will stop working, but I'm thinking the bulb isn't totally necessary for things to work?

05-05-2013, 09:11 PM
I know this is an old thread but this is where the information is. I replaced the bulb inmine today as per instructions but the arm still wont lower. I hit play, the arm goes over the record but wont lower. Any ideas ?

It's been quite a few years since I worked on one of these, but my best guess is the tonearm cueing is not working properly. Obviously since there is no manual cue lever in this model, so it has to drop the arm automatically. It's been so long (over 15 years ago) since I've been inside one, I'm trying to remember if there was a small belt that turns a cam to release the cue lever or not (some models had that) might want to check. The other probable cause is the silicone grease that was used as damping fluid for the cue lever has gotten old and dirty/sticky. You'd have to take apart the cue assembly and clean it out and replace the grease. If the arm is moving to the correct drop point and not cueing, this could be a relatively simple fix.