View Full Version : Attic Find: Utah Speaker Pair


StarMover
08-31-2005, 09:43 AM
My dad and I were discussing a HK 630 amp and a pair of old speakers he has stuffed into the bottom cabinet of his study.

I asked him what the make of the speakers is and he didn't know. Today he emails me that they are "Utah" speakers and sends me these pics. He didn't say the model number, but I believe I can see the outlines of the speakers through the grills in the photos. Doing some research on the web; I don't see many Utah's intact, mostly parts. I asked Dad for the model number, so if it's there I should have it shortly. He's going to drop them by the house soon so I can check them out. I'll bet they're old enough to have fabric surrounds. Perhaps they're even paper like the old Scott speakers. I'll keep you posted. Anyone recognize these? :scratch2:

StarMover
08-31-2005, 09:53 AM
BTW, I left off the dimensions: 11" x 14" x 23" walnut veneer. I believe they are 3-way based on what I can see through the grills. (see attachment)

doucanoe
08-31-2005, 10:08 AM
Hey StarMover,
I have a similar Utah bookshelf. It must be its little brother. Same styling and grille fabric. Designed to sit on its side instead of upright. Walnut veneer.

It is badged as a Utah AS-2A, two way. Not a bad sounding speaker at all. Very well balanced.

Yours might be a AS-3A but its just a guess. Im sure you will enjoy them.

RC

cincy
08-31-2005, 10:41 AM
I found a Utah brochure in my files from 1975 and the closest match to your
speakers is a WD-90 -- 12" woofer-- 8" midrange-3.5" tweeter with crossover control
to the tweeter only. Cabinet is walnut veneer and dimensions listed as 14 x 23 x 10.
Shipping weight for one speaker is 33 pounds. RMS Power (Watts) 40--Impedance 8 Ohms--Crossover Frequency (Hz) 2,500/5,000. I realize that 1" is missing from your
measurements but they don't list an 11" dimension. Hope this is of some help to you.
cincy

StarMover
08-31-2005, 10:43 AM
OK, Dad chimes in. The speakers are Utah Model WD-90, 12", 3-Way, Acoustic Suspension System, 8 ohms, 60 Watts Peak. They probabally went with the HK 630 amp.

StarMover
08-31-2005, 10:47 AM
Good eye cincy! Right on the money!

mhardy6647
08-31-2005, 12:50 PM
There's a fellow at AA called "DavidLD" (Debertin) who is a big proponent of all things Utah. You might want to look at the "Vintage" forum there for more Utah info, and/or at:

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/Debertin/utah.htm
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/Debertin/allied01.jpg

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/Debertin/allied01.jpg

StarMover
08-31-2005, 04:12 PM
The mystery is solved. Another AK victory! Now all we need to do is plug those puppies up, put on our gold chains and disco pants and re-live 1975. Can you dig it?

yrly
09-01-2005, 01:42 AM
The WD-90s are not bad, I actually try and find these (I only have two pairs so far). Words of advice, rebuild the crossover with new components (even if equal values, it will make a world of difference, you don't even have to go experimenting around unless you wanted to), then reseal the cabinets, and by reseal I mean reseal, check the back seal when playing loud heavy music, its probably leaking, they used some sort of rubber gasket to seal the back and they are getting pretty dried out here 30 years later. The big 12 incher's surround should be as good as new. What I like about them is they are very efficient, believe it or not it actually makes them good for using in home theaters setups, and they will play LOUD. For music I tend to find them bass heavy if you don't redo the crossover. If you don't want to rebuild the crossover just make sure those rear seals are tight, at least they won't sound boomy then.

thunderbird3370
09-01-2005, 04:51 PM
There's a fellow at AA called "DavidLD" (Debertin) who is a big proponent of all things Utah. You might want to look at the "Vintage" forum there for more Utah info, and/or at:

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/Debertin/utah.htm
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/Debertin/allied01.jpg

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/Debertin/allied01.jpg
Cool post Mhardy--I have the university Laredo's in that magazine--the laredo's were made in 1961--how old is that magazine? the bird

mhardy6647
09-01-2005, 07:38 PM
That's a scan of a 1970 or 1971 Allied Radio catalog, from DavidLD's website. I think I provided the link above.

bully
09-01-2005, 11:30 PM
I have a pair of WD-90 right here. Decent sound, good bass and mids, a tweeter upgrade would make 'em really sweet.

StarMover
09-06-2005, 08:31 AM
I got into the WD-90s this weekend. I hooked em up and I wasn't hearing the tweeters. Someone had warned earlier in this thread about the caps needing to be replaced. I tested them and found that indeed they are shot, so I'm off to the electronics shop to find new ones. :D

Celt
09-06-2005, 09:19 AM
I got into the WD-90s this weekend. I hooked em up and I wasn't hearing the tweeters. Someone had warned earlier in this thread about the caps needing to be replaced. I tested them and found that indeed they are shot, so I'm off to the electronics shop to find new ones. :D
Make sure you use the same values and consider an upgrade to Solen or a better grade of cap. Parts Express has many caps in stock (see link at the bottom of this page).

StarMover
09-07-2005, 08:41 AM
Here are a couple of pics of the inner workings of the UTAH W-90s. The white crossover cap tested OK, but the blue one is bad.

Celt
09-07-2005, 09:53 AM
Here are a couple of pics of the inner workings of the UTAH W-90s. The white crossover cap tested OK, but the blue one is bad.
Alnico magnets! :smoke: I'd go ahead and replace all caps...they don't cost much and you'll benefit from better sound.

StarMover
09-07-2005, 02:37 PM
Celt,

Can you suggest specs for replacement caps? I'm having trouble cross-referencing them. These are 50V NP, but from there I can't tell. I have a feeling the white one (the good one) has been replaced already, because it looks so much newer than the other one. I don't have a lot of experience with electronics.

One is marked: 4-50VNP
110249-1

The other: 52NP7304
+112049-2+
8MD 50V

yrly
09-08-2005, 01:51 AM
If I recall its a pretty low value cap, want to say 10uf but for some reason looking at it when I have it typed out does not seem right... I wonder if I still have the paper I wrote the parts down when I redid them, been a few years since I redid the ones in the basement, I'll take a look around. Thing is I am not sure they all use the same caps, Utah marketed this design under a few different models, and oddly they had different frequency response specs. I highly doubt they did much to the design...

Make sure you seal up those things tight, that 12 has a rather long excursion (you'd be surprised), and though they seem pretty durable and I doubt it will be damaged if the seal is not good, the thing will be like one of those boomy car stereos. I have actually been curious about that 12 for a long time, I would love to be able to obtain one to try in a ported box to see what happens, but I can't hack up these perfectly good Utah speakers for an experiment. I mean the Utahs are not exactly the greatest but the cabinets are good and solid, contrast that to some of the junk out there, and when working properly they sound decent enough (and I'll point it out again, they are great for HT setups, really pound without a lot of power).

cabinover
09-08-2005, 06:10 AM
SM, I'd venture a guess that the first one is a 4uf cap by the description but I don't know for sure.

StarMover
09-08-2005, 08:41 AM
I've got the entire rear board with the cross over with me today. At lunch I'm going by the electronics store to get new caps and some fuses and lamps I need for other projects. Will keep you posted on the progress of this job.

StarMover
09-08-2005, 02:42 PM
According to the old man at the electronics shop, one is 50v NP 4uf, the other is 50V NP 8uf. He didn't have either, so I'll surf to Parts Express and order them.

StarMover
09-09-2005, 10:30 AM
OK, it looks like there are a wide range of manufacturers and types of caps. Some cost as little as .50 ea, while others are as much as $25 ea. :sigh: The difference seems to be in how they are constructed. Does it really make a difference what quality of caps you buy? :scratch2:

Parts express wants a minimum of $6.50 to ship two tiny little parts via UPS. :sigh: I know this could go via USPS for a third that or less. I gotta find a local source for non-polar caps.

MarkAnderson
09-09-2005, 11:06 AM
StarMover - Take a look here:

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

I just ordered some caps from them and the shipping (USPS) was less than $4. Polypropylene caps are generally regarded as far superior to NP electrolytics. You might consider some Bennics - they offer a 3.9uF and an 8.2uF - should be close enough to the values you stated, I would think. Solen offers the exact values you need, but are bit more expensive. - Mark

StarMover
09-09-2005, 11:41 AM
Done, I ordered the Bennics. Thanks for the link Mark.

MarkAnderson
09-09-2005, 11:56 AM
Happy to help.....let us know how the project turns out. - Mark

P.S.- Just for future reference, the GE poly caps they sell (not offered in the values you needed) are cheap and worked out great in fotno's AR4x's.

fotno
09-09-2005, 12:07 PM
Mark's right, those GE caps made those 4x's sound marvelous. Well, the GE caps and all of Mark's fine work on them. I couldn't be more pleased, thanks again Mark.

StarMover
09-09-2005, 01:45 PM
Mental note made... You guys are tops. I'm a soldering session away from having those W-90s back to original condition.

procycle
09-14-2005, 01:46 AM
i recently acquired a pair of the exact same speakers. i have them hooked to a sansui 881 they sound absolutely amazing. i would also like to find out more about them. when were they made? what are they worth? hook them up to a tube amp and you wont beleive how good they sound.

StarMover
09-14-2005, 08:33 AM
I got the new caps last night and soldered them in on one speaker. They are much larger than the old ones. I guess that's the difference between polypropelene and electrolytic caps?

When I plugged them up with the new caps wired in, I wasn't hearing anything from the mid or the tweeter. I removed the tweeter and tested again with a straight wire but still no good, although the mid is working when wired directly. The tweeter looks a little crusty so it may have to be replaced. Hopefully I didn't order the wrong size caps?! :scratch2:

Unfourtunately, we had company at the house last night so I had very little time to work on it. My wife loves to "visit" and chat with the neighbors and I'm expected to sit there and look interested... :worried:

MarkAnderson
09-14-2005, 11:35 AM
Your problem could be the level control if neither driver is working. It appears that both are wired through the control, no? It's very possible that if you sent a full-range signal to the tweeter to test it, you fried it. Do you have any lose drivers laying around that you could use to confirm that you are getting a signal through the tweeter and mid leads? - Mark

baniels
06-29-2008, 10:27 AM
Hello all. I figured I'd revive this old thread rather than start a new one.

I just picked up a pair of Utah WD66 speakers yesterday for $30 at a garage sale. I think they've been sitting atop the same bookshelf for the last thirty years. They were dusty, but otherwise in great shape.

They are three-ways. I haven't measured the mid and the tweeter, but the woofer is 12".

The first thing I noticed was how efficient they are. The second thing I noticed was how weak the highs were. My first thought was that either the x-over components were shot. BUT, upon closer inspection, I realized that they have L-Pads and they were turned all the way in the "wrong" direction. After turning them the other way the highs became much better.

I just ordered some replacement caps from Madisound. I imagine that after 30 or so years the x-overs could use an overhaul. I'm sticking with the same values (8uF and 4uF) and going with the Solens.

Even as they are, for $30, I'm happy with them. If I can throw a few dollars in new caps and a reseal job and squeeze a little more performance out of them - I'll be a happy guy!

-Ben

SixCats!
06-29-2008, 11:20 AM
Hi all,

This is indeed too ironic! I just now returned from my Garage loft where I was listening to a "curb side/free" pair of UTAH A-90's I found on trash day in Portland in May. The A-90's are a 12" 3 way. This pair is "cosmetically challenged" but, when hooked up to my ol' ALLIED 333 Tube Receiver, I was shocked how good they sounded! I played the strongest FM station I could find here in the simi-sticks. The music was called CHILL music and it has lots of Electronic instruments, drums etc. Man, these ol' A-90's really have some deep Bass. The A-90's do have (as mentioned) a well balanced sound that I found pretty relaxing. I no doubt suspect that these ol' UTAH's could benifit from a recapping as I had the TREBLE switch cranked for best sound. Heck, I really can't complain for a pair of Freebies!

Regards,
SixCats!

baniels
07-06-2008, 06:53 PM
Replacing the caps made a noticeable improvement in SQ.

MarkAnderson
07-06-2008, 11:45 PM
It tends to do that.

Welcome to AK, sir. :thmbsp:

baniels
07-17-2008, 06:58 PM
So what happens if I plug these into my Onkyo TX-SR805? I just got it - until now I only powered the Utah's with an HK AVR-240.

130 Watts is the rating for the Onkyo. Am I going to fry these 30 Watt speakers?

outlawmws
07-17-2008, 07:48 PM
If you show some restraint you should not hurt them, remember these are pretty efficient and it doesn't take a lot of power to run them pretty loud.

I have a set of these and without doing anything to refresh them, they sounded great, especially with tubes. I’d recommend trying some tubes with them if you have any access to them.

baniels
07-28-2008, 10:14 AM
Unfortunately I don't have access to any tubes.

I am mostly thrilled with the quality of sound for the $50 I spent on these (including the new caps).

I'm not too impressed with the low-end, however, and I wonder if there is anything I can do to improve that.

I haven't done any frequency response tests, but Audyssey (on my Okyo) sets the x-over for these speakers at 150 hz, which seems high for 3-ways, particularly with the 12 woofer.

I wouldn't know how to begin selecting a replacement woofer that would work well with the other drivers and the cabinet, but I might consider exploring it if any of you here think it might be worth my while.

Any thoughts?

outlawmws
07-28-2008, 10:34 AM
Try positioning for bass reinforcement; closer to the back wall or in the corner.

baniels
07-28-2008, 10:39 AM
They are already against a back wall and corners are not an option. Replacing the drivers not an option?

Try positioning for bass reinforcement; closer to the back wall or in the corner.

outlawmws
07-28-2008, 11:22 AM
I would not replace the drivers you kill the value and the speakers original voice. I don't remember mine s being bass shy.

IIR these have paper/cloth surrounds? get a surround sealant and make sure they are not leaking. I don’t remember if these were sealed, but if they are, is there air resistance if you move the cones in? Do they come back slowly?

baniels
07-28-2008, 11:27 AM
I actually haven't inspected the drivers. The plaid grill cover is not removable and I haven't taken the drivers out. Perhaps that should be my first step.

The cabinets are front ported.


I would not replace the drivers you kill the value and the speakers original voice. I don't remember mine s being bass shy.

IIR these have paper/cloth surrounds? get a surround sealant and make sure they are not leaking. I donít remember if these were sealed, but if they are, is there air resistance if you move the cones in? Do they come back slowly?

toxcrusadr
07-28-2008, 12:37 PM
If they are ported you'd have a hard time finding a suitable replacement driver because its parameters would have to be compatible with the original in order to sound right. The cabinet volume and port size are tuned to the woofer's parameters. And of course they probably don't exist for that driver. My impression is that sealed enclosures are more forgiving wrt woofer replacement than ported ones.

More likely you have problems with crispy surrounds, etc.

dirkmc3
08-02-2008, 11:49 AM
Hey StarMover,
I have a similar Utah bookshelf. It must be its little brother. Same styling and grille fabric. Designed to sit on its side instead of upright. Walnut veneer.

It is badged as a Utah AS-2A, two way. Not a bad sounding speaker at all. Very well balanced.

Yours might be a AS-3A but its just a guess. Im sure you will enjoy them.

RC

Utah AS-2A's ...... $4.20 yesterday at a thrift store.....no crossovers...just a cap to the tweteer......supposed to be a sealed cabinet but not "exactly" air tight these days...LOL

They sound fair right now....tweeter isn't the best....

I'll re-cap them this weekend and see how they sound...

DonQuixote99
03-01-2010, 08:39 PM
Hello all. This seems to be the Utah speakers thread--at least, it's the one I found....

I've got a line on a pair of 'Utah HS5A Heritage' speakers. The seller says they date to the '70, are really heavy (60 lbs each) 25" high, and 14x15. Can't find out anything about them from Google. Anyone got any particulars? Like, does that 5 in there mean they have 5 drivers in them?

Where I'm at is the home theatre has moved upstairs, but I'd like to make the basement the vinyl center. I didn't really like my main theatre speakers, Sony SS-B1000's, as pure music speakers anyway--they just lack 'presence' and 'richness,' though they seem clear and accurate, and are tons better than what they replaced. I was kind of thinking that some vintage speakers would be just the ticket to make the vintage rock sound like it used to.

The available amp at the moment is a Technics SA-120--35 w RMS. Is it going to drive these Utahs?

yrly
03-01-2010, 11:11 PM
Utah speakers are generally efficient, and tend to be bass heavy. I actually have HS1Cs as the rear surround channel of my bedroom system for that very reason. My bedroom is relatively large, 19x15 approx. I have a Pioneer VSX-1017 THX receiver which cranks out the watts but still I want the system to be plenty loud. The other things about Utah speakers. They almost always have cloth surrounds which don't disintegrate, because of this the crossover caps are almost always past their prime, replace them, trust me. They almost always have Alnico magnets if they're early 70s. The Heritage series models usually are bass reflex with horn tweeters. The others are usually acoustic suspension. The common acoustic suspension model is the WD90 and derivatives, a 12" woofer, 6" mid and 3" tweeter if I recall, they go by several models and are common. I have several pairs, and find them to be good because of their efficiency. Be wary that the seals of the acoustic suspension are surely shot because the rubber like material they seal them with, kind of akin to weather stripping, is dried up at this point. Reseal the cabinets when you replace the crossover caps and you'll hear how they shoudl sound.

Because of their efficiency and bass capability Utah speakers are great in HT setups even with low powered crappy modern HT receivers. Use a good modern HT receiver and they're even better.

DonQuixote99
03-01-2010, 11:29 PM
Appreciate the input, yrly.

Hmmm...well there's no room for these big floor boxes upstairs where my HT is. Tons of room in the basement room though. Have to see if I like how they sound. Bass reflex can be boomish, I know that much. Seller has them hooked up and will demonstrate. I'll take Virgil Fox doing Bach on the organ, maybe....

How does $60.00 sound?

DonQuixote99
03-03-2010, 11:08 PM
Well, I got the Utah HS5-A pair. I am a happy man. Best speakers I've had in years, even without any work on 'em. $50.00 well spent from my POV at least....

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=4993

You'll note that the tone of the wood finish is different on the two. This is one of two big reasons I have to think this pair met up late in life....

Here's the inside of one of them:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=4995

Bass reflex, as yrly suggested. And these speakers are bass-heavy. I don't care for now, I've been bass-deprived. I don't care what they say, subwoofers aren't the same.

Now an interior detail, which shows why I haven't inspected the surrounds:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=4996

That black fringe you see is the edge of the cover cloth. There basically is no grill to pop-off of these critters. To get at the front of the drivers I'd have to totally remove the front baffle. For now I am very happy to assume that yrly is correct, these woofers have cloth surrounds* that will never need attention. Utah built for the ages.

[*ON EDIT: actually, the surrounds are paper. I've now looked at them]

There's also some bit of something loose in one of the woofer cones. Hear it shifting when I handle the speakers. I don't hear from it any other time, so since there's no easy way to get it out, I guess it stays.

One woofer also has one loose mounting bolt--can't tighten the nut cause I can't get at the other side to keep it from rotating. So I just put some black tape on it to hopefully keep it from buzzing, or getting any looser. Tightened up all the other nuts. That's about the extent of maintenance done so far.

BTW, the other reason to figure these speakers didn't start out together is that the other woofer differs in finish, and in sub-number, from the one shown. But form-factor and basic model number are identical.

Here's a portrait of the crossover. I'm sure I should replace the pot and the capacitor.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=4998

Fortunately, one of the capacitors has legible markings:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=4999

Lastly, for positive ID, here's the label still found on the back of one of them:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=5000

I can report that these here big Utah's make the modern Sony bookshelves I've got sound sick. (The Sonys, to be fair, are cheapies--didn't run much more than what I gave for the Utah's.

I've decided the vintage approach is brilliant!

theebadone
03-04-2010, 05:50 AM
Well, I got the Utah HS5-A pair. I am a happy man. Best speakers I've had in years, even without any work on 'em. $50.00 well spent from my POV at least....

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=4993

You'll note that the tone of the wood finish is different on the two. This is one of two big reasons I have to think this pair met up late in life....

Here's the inside of one of them:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=4995

Bass reflex, as yrly suggested. And these speakers are bass-heavy. I don't care for now, I've been bass-deprived. I don't care what they say, subwoofers aren't the same.

Now an interior detail, which shows why I haven't inspected the surrounds:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=4996

That black fringe you see is the edge of the cover cloth. There basically is no grill to pop-off of these critters. To get at the front of the drivers I'd have to totally remove the front baffle. For now I am very happy to assume that yrly is correct, these woofers have cloth surrounds that will never need attention. Utah built for the ages.

There's also some bit of something loose in one of the woofer cones. Hear it shifting when I handle the speakers. I don't hear from it any other time, so since there's no easy way to get it out, I guess it stays.

One woofer also has one loose mounting bolt--can't tighten the nut cause I can't get at the other side to keep it from rotating. So I just put some black tape on it to hopefully keep it from buzzing, or getting any looser. Tightened up all the other nuts. That's about the extent of maintenance done so far.

BTW, the other reason to figure these speakers didn't start out together is that the other woofer differs in finish, and in sub-number, from the one shown. But form-factor and basic model number are identical.

Here's a portrait of the crossover. I'm sure I should replace the pot and the capacitor.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=4998

Fortunately, one of the capacitors has legible markings:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=4999

Lastly, for positive ID, here's the label still found on the back of one of them:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=837&pictureid=5000

I can report that these here big Utah's make the modern Sony bookshelves I've got sound sick. (The Sonys, to be fair, are cheapies--didn't run much more than what I gave for the Utah's.

I've decided the vintage approach is brilliant!

I had a set of those about a year ago, I gave them to a friend, to start a vintage system. He paired them with a Sansui 8080 and loves them. Some of the Utahs are definitely sleepers.

DonQuixote99
03-04-2010, 06:50 AM
I had a set of those about a year ago, I gave them to a friend, to start a vintage system. He paired them with a Sansui 8080 and loves them. Some of the Utahs are definitely sleepers.

Oh, you're a good friend to have, theebadone!

yrly
03-04-2010, 11:03 AM
Could unbolt the woofer with a small nut driver on all the other bolts, then see if you can reach in and hold the remaining bolt from the front. The Front grill will likely flex forward enough to allow it. Then you could glue it or something then put it back together. As far as the buzzing, chances are a piece of glue that they gluded the grill on with broke off and fell inside there or the glue that holds that bolt from the front. I took my woofers out completely in my Heritages and inspected them. It was not terribly hard but didn't have that exact situation. Other way to do it would be cut the bolt off with a dremel, remove the woofer, remove the front of the bolt and then just screw the woofer down from one of the next unusued nearby holes.

DonQuixote99
03-04-2010, 01:39 PM
Thanks yrly--good to know there's no great trick to removing the woofers (no seals to reseal or anything). Main thing I need is a long 5/16" socket to work those nuts--they used too-long bolts. Hey--I just rememberd I have a set of those <goes looking> ... yep, they were in the big automotive toolbox. Ok, woofer's coming off.

DonQuixote99
03-04-2010, 09:57 PM
Well, both woofers have now been looked at. Had to fuss with that one loose stud some, but I managed. I think it was a good idea to shroud everything with newspaper and masking tape before flailing away with the Dremel, and I did that. Metal dust stuck to driver magnets would be untidy.

The picture shows one of the woofers, and to the right the thing that was bouncing around inside the cone. It was a chip of particle board, and the fact that it had come off was why the problem stud (right below it on the table) was loose. With the particle board weakened there, I didn't try installing any replacement fastner in that position.

The surrounds turn out to be paper, but in fine condition I'd say. There's a bit of a tear at one spot on the circumference on each--apparently the builders used a spot of glue there, but doesn't seem to compromise them. Not that I've looked at surrounds much, but I see no need to replace these. I just vacuumed the dust off the woofers and put them back in. But I'm glad to have been able to remove the stray chip of particle board and the loose stud.

1ontop=
04-15-2010, 09:36 PM
Just got a pair of W-90's yesterday along with an Allied 995 integrated amp and Marantz Model 104 tuner. Neither of the latter are operational which was instrumental in my getting all for only 10 bucks. The speakers are in very nice condition. Not getting the extreme bass response as some have mentioned in previous posts. Will have to work on that later. Did not see mention of this in previous posts but unless the previous owner inverted the back panels on this pair, I believe these are top mounted woofers.