What do I need to maintain my Cassette deck or reel to reel?

For the most part, all you need to do is keep the heads and general tape path clean and free from magnetic fields both external and internally generated from usage.



For cleaning the heads, guides, metal rolling tensioners, lifter arms and capstan you will need to get Isopropyl Alcohol in a 95% purity or higher. This will be applied with Qtips or any decent, lint free cotton swab by wetting the swab with the alcohol and rubbing off the oxide build up on the affected parts.

The frequency of doing this procedure depends on the machine and the type and condition of the tape you are using at the time. Generally for cassette decks, every 10 - 30 hrs of actual play/recording time and after every major recording session to be safe. For open reel machines, every 6 to 10 hrs and even more depending what tape you are using, older tape can shed and create a big mess on both heads + travelpath.

Keeping the tape path clean and free of tape oxide build up will ensure that your deck keeps running at peak efficiency and at it best frequency response.

Isopropyl alcohol can be found at any drugstore or pharmacy and at most hardware stores too.

For cleaning any and all rubber parts in the tape path such as pinch rollers and idler-wheels
Parts Express sell both headcleaner and rubber cleaner.
Don't use head-cleaner or Isopropyl alcohol on any rubber-parts.
Some reel to reel models and cassette decks has a softer rubber and you will ruin your new deck with a gummy sticky mess, be careful. :)



The key to doing it is when you see appreciable oxide build up on the rubber or if you notice any deviations in play speed or increases in wow and flutter. All of these symptoms are basically signs of a lack of grip of the rubber roller against the capstan which together pull the tape across the heads at a rated speed.
A brown residue on the pinch-roller or tension rollers are a sign it's time to do some maintenance. :)


Deagussing ( Demagnetizing )

There are many ways to screw this part up, so please be careful.

A little stray magnetism can become quite a big problem in tape recording.
It only takes a small amount (.2 gauss) to cause trouble on the record head.
Playing 10 cassettes will put about that much charge on the heads.
A little more than (.7 gauss) will start erase high frequency signals on previously recorded tapes.

DEGAUSSING IS ALWAYS DONE WITH RECORDER TURNED OFF. :yes:
If you try it with the electronics on, the current pulses produced by the degausser will look just like the audio signals to the heads.
These pulses are around 10,000 gauss, and will seriously damage the electronics inside.

So turn your deck of first:
Be certain your demagnetizer has either a plastic cover or plastic tape covering the tip.
Make sure that no metal ever touches the heads as it will scar and ruin them.

Turn the demagntizer on at least 3 feet away from your deck,
slowly move in to the tape path, move the degausser slowly back and fourth without touching the heads.
Slowly move it away again to at least 3 feet ( 1 meter ) before releasing the button.

Repeat this on the metal tape guides on each side of the heads (reel to reel)
NEVER relaese the demagnetizer when close to the heads...you will put a permanent magnetic charge on them, that no degaussing will remove, so be sure to concentrate while you are doing this.

A clean and properly demagnetized tape recorder will maintain it's performance without any other attention for quite a while.

Good Luck, :)

Great guidelines, (it's about time somebody did this one).

Very good instructions. I was familiar with cassette maintenance procedures, but I didn't realize that R to R maintenance was nearly the same. Which makes sense, of course.

From what I've been taught, it's good that your instructions followed the procedure for the "wand" type of degausser. You can get demagnetizers in the form of a cassette shell with some circuitry in it, that you just plug into the machine and "play". I've been told to NEVER bother with those, as they're never quite powerful enough to do the job and you can't back the degausser away from the head like you can with a wand. I've never tried one myself - I'm happy with the wand unit I've used for years.

Thanks. I'm just getting into R-t-R so I needed a little guidance. I'll definitely try to remember about being careful degaussing!

Not a bad idea to clean the heads after every pass of a full reel. Especially if you're using 10.5" reels.
The highest % if IPA that i was able to find is 91%. The best cleaner was the TEAC Head & Rubber Cleaners. NLA from Teac. Dried fast and cleaned great.
Ron

A good guide for all of us! Newbies and Long Termers a like. Great advise. Also look at Vintage TX Post here on reet to reel cleaning. A whole lot of good stuff there :) Got to get a demagnetizer myself.

Eric

I'm assuming that RtoR's need cleaning more frequently because of the wider tape and more of it moving across the heads and guides at a higher rate of speed = more crap buildup?

I just picked up a Pioneer RT 707 yesterday...Excellent cosmetic condition and appears to work fine...came with about 40 tapes, about 5 of them in sealed boxes...mostly recordings from the 70's...you know J.J. Cale, Spyrogyra (remember them?)...it appears that most of it was pulled off of FM not vinyl...too bad...paid $125.00...I thought that was an excellent price. I hate to tease ya all with this but at a garage sale this summer...sitting in the driveway on the ground I found a TEAC X10 in perfect condition...$25.00!! Anyway...I bought the RT so I could move music from the X10 in the office to the RT in the Liv Rm...lo and behold they are different speeds...wtf is up with that? No matter I am still happy but it seems an odd thing for pioneer to do. It did not come with a manual and I am noticing that the highs on the left channel are not as 'bright' as those on the right...yes I have cleaned it, no I don't have a de-mag thingee yet but will soon. I see there are some 'azim' adjust screws on the front...can someone tell me how one uses/adjusts those or whether one should leave that to a highly paid 'professional'.

I have a demagnetizer made by Discwasher that has a magnet of some sort in a cassette shell that is run during FF/Rew functions for a couple of passes. Does anyone know whether or not this device is useless or worse harmful?

I have a demagnetizer made by Discwasher that has a magnet of some sort in a cassette shell that is run during FF/Rew functions for a couple of passes. Does anyone know whether or not this device is useless or worse harmful?

Discwasher is a reputable company. It's most likely not harmful, and probably not completely useless, but very probably not as effective as it should be. If you're serious about maintaining the best sound you can get out of your cassettes, get a good wand.

How much time should you spend sweeping around the tape path? Do you just move in slowly from a distance, make a pass of the path and parts and move back out slowly? Thanks.

mac

I live in portland oregon and

fred meyers sells 99% ipa.

i've used a maxell cassette type head demagnetizer for several years and it seems to work fine...also the alsop 3 or alsop 4 tape path cleaner is pretty good and works for both auto reverse and uniderectional transport mechanisms..although you do have to clean the erase head of unidirectional transports separately with a q-tip and fluid...
i prefer the cassette type demagnetizers as there is less chance of me magnetizing the heads permanently and used once a month seems to keep the heads sounding fine right across the frequency spectrum...
works great in the car too...always seems to restore the high end response on my alpine unit when i've neglected it for a few weeks...
the Alsop cleaner is the only thing that will clean the transport mechanism effectively of my in car tape player short of me dismantling the deck...
price is not too bad on the wallet either...
the maxell demagnetiser might not be so easy to track down in these digital days...the model # is :
Maxell Head Demagnetizer HE-44

How much time should you spend sweeping around the tape path? Do you just move in slowly from a distance, make a pass of the path and parts and move back out slowly? Thanks.

mac

Sorry about the late reply - I was going to see if there were other responses (not my thread, and I don't really intend to take it over) and then maybe reply but then I lost track of the thread. "My bad". :sigh:

What you're saying is generally right, although I personally sweep back and forth really close to the playback head about a dozen times, going across the full width and slowly working my way down the head. This may be overkill, although it's not like it takes forever to do.

Regarding Maxell, they are definitely a good company. Their demag may certainly be adequate.

I've been told I should demag about once per every 27 or so plays of 90 minute tapes. That seems about right in practice. It sounds like somebody did their research on this, anyhow.

I think you are safe using that old bottle.

does anyone know any good models of wand degausser? also, i take it that those wands aren't safe around a computer monitor, right? edit: or computer?

Mine was made by Nortronics, and I think it's supposed to be one of the better ones. I don't think it's produced anymore - but Google shows some used ones for sale.

I've never had mine on around a computer and/or monitor. I don't have a clue about that one.

If you put a degausser near a picture tube of any sort (monitor, TV, etc.), you'll magnetize the phosophor grid in that particular spot, causing at least moderate discolouration, and probably some blurring of the image because the grid doesn't have the right electromagnetic properties for the electron beam to hit it right anymore. (Believe it or not, just running an electric pencil sharpener or fan close to the screen can do it!) If you're lucky, and the device has an internal degausser (like late model computer CRTs), then you can just use that feature, and fix it. Otherwise, you would have to go through a procedure similar to degaussing a tape recorder.

Putting a degausser near a computer would have a slight effect on ths chips inside, it could possibly magnetize them and render them useless, or could just interfere with their operation when on. It also has the potential to ruin the permenant magnet inside DC motors and render them useless.

The main risk, however, with a degausser near a computer is that you could either degauss the HDD or screw it up with outside magnetic fields. The only time I would recomment using a degausser or a strong magnet on a HDD is if you plan on throwing it out, as this would scramble/destroy the data on the disk and render it useless. I would still recommend disassembling the drive and destroying the platters after that just as an extra precaution.

But in any event, keep the degausser a safe distance away from the TV or computer.

So any special procedures to cleaning an auto-reverse tape deck?

thanks

Question... where can you purchase a demagnetizer for a R2R?

I checked yesterday after a discussion with some of the guys in the group and the best Isopropyl I can find is 91%. Guess that should do the job??
Thanks

Question... where can you purchase a demagnetizer for a R2R?

I checked yesterday after a discussion with some of the guys in the group and the best Isopropyl I can find is 91%. Guess that should do the job??
Thanks

Be very carefull using somethink like that. It can have a lot of additives, oils, etc. and leave residue. You are better off getting tape head cleaner from US Recording.

What should I do if I already used the 70% Isopropyl Alcohol on my deck? Should I just clean it again with the 95% Isopropyl?

I've always used some form of Isopropyl - that's what has been recommended to me in the past, and it seems to do a fine job. And I'm pretty picky about these things.

I don't think it would hurt to re-do a 70% job with 95% - or the purest stuff you can easily find. Wouldn't be a bad idea, as it's not very expensive anyhow considering how little you use for this purpose.

Is demagnetizing really that essential? The reason I'm asking is that I've never used one ever in my 15years of using cassette decks. My technics cassette deck has more or less been in constant use since the late 1980s (used to be my father's), and it still runs flawlessly without any noticeable loss in high frequency. All I do in terms of maintenance is soak one of those Alsop cassette head & pinch roller cleaners (its in the shape of a cassette but has moving sponge parts at the tape head and pinch roller section) in isopropyl and let that run through for a minute or so. I do this every 3 to 6 months. Am I just lucky that my tape deck is still working flawlessly despite the lack of attention I give it?

Is demagnetizing really that essential? The reason I'm asking is that I've never used one ever in my 15years of using cassette decks. My technics cassette deck has more or less been in constant use since the late 1980s (used to be my father's), and it still runs flawlessly without any noticeable loss in high frequency. All I do in terms of maintenance is soak one of those Alsop cassette head & pinch roller cleaners (its in the shape of a cassette but has moving sponge parts at the tape head and pinch roller section) in isopropyl and let that run through for a minute or so. I do this every 3 to 6 months. Am I just lucky that my tape deck is still working flawlessly despite the lack of attention I give it?

OK, now buy a demagnetiser, stick i through and see how much better it sounds!

Seriously, though - you should really demagnetise once a year or so at minimum, more often if you use the deck a lot. It's not just the sound quality aspect, either. Think about this - the erase head should never be demagnetised as it uses its magnetisation to erase the tape, so consider what can start to happen if the playback head starts to become magnetised.......... :eek:

the erase head should never be demagnetised as it uses its magnetisation to erase the tape, so consider what can start to happen if the playback head starts to become magnetised.......... :eek:

But would a demagnetizer not demagnetise the erase head anyway considering the heads are grouped so closely together?

But would a demagnetizer not demagnetise the erase head anyway considering the heads are grouped so closely together?

No - the magnetic field generated by a demagnetising cassette is very low, as is the field from a wand type demagnetiser.
If you look at a demagnetising tape of the kind you just stick in the deck and press play, you'll see that the mechanism only acts on the record/play head and not on the erase.

OK, now buy a demagnetiser, stick i through and see how much better it sounds!

...consider what can start to happen if the playback head starts to become magnetised.......... :eek:

It's kinda like when I needed glasses, I had no clue I had lost any visual detail whatsoever until it got so extreme that the lines on the chalkboard at school started to double. Then I get the glasses, and on my way home I suddenly start seeing things like power lines (not just the poles) stretching several blocks into the distance, and the texture of the road in front of me. And I can actually read road signs! Imagine that!

Only problem is, you may have dulled some high frequencies and/or dynamic peaks on some old tapes for going that long. I think it should show at least some improvement on everything, but I would make a fresh recording after demagnetizing to really see the difference it can make.

Okay, i'll need to try this whole demagnetizing thing!

So, am I okay getting a demagnetizer in the form of a cassette instead of a wand, or is the wand the only way to go? From a practical perspective it would be much safer and easier for me to use a cassette type!

Would either of the following be suitable?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CASSETTE-HEAD-CLEANER-AND-DEMAGNETIZER_W0QQitemZ300014687331QQihZ020QQcatego ryZ15053QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Electronic-Cassette-Tape-Head-Demagnetizer-Fast-n-Safe_W0QQitemZ260017920763QQihZ016QQcategoryZ4784Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Out of interest, if you're not supposed to use a demagnetizer when the machine is on then why is the cassette demagnetizer safe to use when the machine is on?

FWIW - When I make a recording of a CD onto a Maxell XL-II tape using this tape deck, the tape sounds identical to the CD in terms of high frequency response. But I'll do a before and after test just to see if the demagnetizing makes made a difference.

As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I've never thought much of cassette type demagnetizers. I suspect that cassettes work OK while running because you can't accidentally touch anything you're not supposed to with them. I've just been warned against them repeatedly because they're not particularly effective. Plus it seems that it's hard to put much power behind something you have to squeeze into a narrow little plastic box. But hey, I could be wrong, not having really compared them.

I suggest finding an old Nortronics wand some place on the web. There are probably other really good brands around - that's just what I know about.

Okay, i'll need to try this whole demagnetizing thing!

So, am I okay getting a demagnetizer in the form of a cassette instead of a wand, or is the wand the only way to go? From a practical perspective it would be much safer and easier for me to use a cassette type!

Would either of the following be suitable?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CASSETTE-HEAD-CLEANER-AND-DEMAGNETIZER_W0QQitemZ300014687331QQihZ020QQcatego ryZ15053QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Electronic-Cassette-Tape-Head-Demagnetizer-Fast-n-Safe_W0QQitemZ260017920763QQihZ016QQcategoryZ4784Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Out of interest, if you're not supposed to use a demagnetizer when the machine is on then why is the cassette demagnetizer safe to use when the machine is on?

FWIW - When I make a recording of a CD onto a Maxell XL-II tape using this tape deck, the tape sounds identical to the CD in terms of high frequency response. But I'll do a before and after test just to see if the demagnetizing makes made a difference.

Richard,
Either of those will be fine - the electronic one is just a bit posher! I use one like the first one, which has a rotating magnet slightly off centre - this sucks the magnetisation off the head as you play it, then when you rewind the cassette, the magnet rotates off-centre and the vibration removes the magnetisation from it, ready for the next go. It's for this reason you're best off not rewinding it straight after use, but straight before the next time you use it.

The auction for that first demagnetizer has just ended, but I've found something similar by Maxell. Code no. A-450. http://www.tapecity.co.uk/acatalog/Tape_City_Cleaners_58.html
I take it this would also do the job?
Any idea how long cassette demagnetizers work for before they need to be replaced?

Question... where can you purchase a demagnetizer for a R2R?

I checked yesterday after a discussion with some of the guys in the group and the best Isopropyl I can find is 91%. Guess that should do the job??
Thanks

US Recording Media has great tape head/path cleaner. They also sell the Annis HandDMag demagnetizer, the ones used by in studios all across the country.

Travis

The auction for that first demagnetizer has just ended, but I've found something similar by Maxell. Code no. A-450. http://www.tapecity.co.uk/acatalog/Tape_City_Cleaners_58.html
I take it this would also do the job?
Any idea how long cassette demagnetizers work for before they need to be replaced?

Yes, that one should be fine. Just don't forget to clean the heads before you use it as (like mine) it contains that hideous dry cleaning tape stuff!
Not sure how long they last - i must have had mine for about 12 years and it's still doing its job!

I think I'll go for the black one in the auction instead of the Maxell one, as shipping on the Maxel one is £5.53GBP! :yikes:

Out of interest, do VCRs need demagnetized too? I've searched eBay but can't seem to find a VHS demagnetizer.

:drool: i just purhased a AKAI GX4000D REEL TO REEL . THE DECK SOUNDS GREAT BUT I HAVE ONE PROBLEM. IT RECORDS GREAT BUT WHEN I PLAY TAPE THAT IS A COMMERICALLY PURCHASED TAPE IT SOUNDS LIKE ALVIN AND THE CHIPMUNKS!!!!!!! I HAVE REMOVED THE CAPSTAN HEAD ON THIS MODEL AND TO CHANGE THE SPEED HOWEVER IT SOUNDS THE SAME ANY IDEAS? I AM A NEWBIE AND DESPERATE FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS

The cassette demagnetizer & head cleaner arrived this morning. It's strange, - it's not a dry-type like the Scotch head cleaner I've got, but it's not got the mechanical moving sponge cleaners like my Alsop head cleaner has. I've never seen one like this before. The tape is like a synthetic gauss/muslin type material, and it's not taught, it looks like it's loosely bunched up inside the holder. No instructions came with it, so I don't really know how to use it, e.g. where to put the fluid? Could someone explain how this works?

Cleaner and demag in one?? Curious. I'd think you would want to get all that stray ferrous material out of there before demagnetizing. Looks like a case of convenience sacrificing quality to me. But then, I'm a skeptic of these cassette-based things from the start. I'm definitely interested in whatever difference you might perceive after using it.

The cassette demagnetizer & head cleaner arrived this morning. It's strange, - it's not a dry-type like the Scotch head cleaner I've got, but it's not got the mechanical moving sponge cleaners like my Alsop head cleaner has. I've never seen one like this before. The tape is like a synthetic gauss/muslin type material, and it's not taught, it looks like it's loosely bunched up inside the holder. No instructions came with it, so I don't really know how to use it, e.g. where to put the fluid? Could someone explain how this works?

This is the most basic type of cleaning tape and personally i wouldn't bother with using the cleaning facility of it at all. Clean your heads in the normal way with your Allsop unit (good) or cotton bud/cleaning solution (better!) and then just treat this unit as a demagnetiser only after the heads are clean and have dried.

After cleaning the heads and tape path with the Allsop cleaner, I used the demagnetizer cassette, then made a recording of a track I had recorded last week (on the same cassette tape as before, a TDK SA90, using the same recording level), and I played both back to ascertain a 'before and after' comparison. Conclusion: hardly any noticeable difference between the 2 recordings. Both sounded excellent with clear highs. Not as crisply piercing as the CD, but that's to be expected given the more limited frequency response of cassette tapes in general anyway, right? As I say, both sounded excellent, but if I had to pick a favourite, I'd probably say there was a *tiny* bit of improvement in the treble response after demagnetizing. Notice the emphasis on *tiny*. I'd say that there was probably, at most, a 1db gain in the high frequency response (BTW my high frequency hearing extends above 16khz, so it's not my hearing!) So, for a tape deck which had never been demagnetized ever in its 15+ years of use, its treble response was still pretty much spot on. Which leads me to my question: why all the fuss about demagnetizing? :scratch2: Unless my demagnetizer is useless, of course.

Which leads me to my question: why all the fuss about demagnetizing? :scratch2: Unless my demagnetizer is useless, of course.

Interesting. I wonder what would happen if you got ahold of a wand and followed the directions and tips for its use in this thread?

I've always thought SA90's lost a fair amount of "edge" to begin with. I would want to test with SA-X90 myself, but I would think an SA would still do OK.

Bought this Sony HE-2 last century it is still doing the trick.

I'd say that there was probably, at most, a 1db gain in the high frequency response (BTW my high frequency hearing extends above 16khz, so it's not my hearing!) So, for a tape deck which had never been demagnetized ever in its 15+ years of use, its treble response was still pretty much spot on. Which leads me to my question: why all the fuss about demagnetizing? :scratch2: Unless my demagnetizer is useless, of course.

I agree that usually demagnetizing a deck is probably not going to make an audible difference when you listen to a playback afterward. The problem with residual magnetism in a tape deck head and the reason it's important to do it is that it affects the tapes. As you play a tape, it will slightly erase some of the higher frequencies that you went to so much trouble to put on there when you recorded it. It's generally a very small affect, but it is cumulative so the more times you play a particular tape, the more erasure will occur.

I just discovered this thread about tapedeck maintenance. I couldn't read every post. Incase nobody mentioned it, I have two suggestions:
1. When demagnetizing your heads, wrap a short piece of masking tape around the tip of the wand. It will prevent any damage incase of accidental contact with the head.
2. I use "Denatured" alcohol (wood alcohol) to clean tape heads. Isoprophyl has a percentage of water, especially the drugstore variety. Wood alcohol has no water and I feel safer using it.

Rick

Nortronics is now made by Geneva Group www.genevainc.com Heavy duty stuff, they still sell it on the web site but it's not cheap.

Greetings, I had a original problem with a Nakamichi 2A Cassette Deck where the play, fast forward, rewind, were frozen. I went to work got rid of some oxidation on the drive motor and tapped, relubed the connector worm gears. I also cleaned the heads and demagnetized. It worked fine for a day or so and then I left it alone for three to four days. Now, it will not play (forward), but will still rewind and fast forward. Then, I notice that several other decks that I have had sitting around also have the same problem. Are these all correlated to the pinch roller? Or something else that make be causing a uniform problem? I thought maybe I overlubed the worm gear on the Nakamichi but surprised to see the same problem in several of the other single decks I have Marantz 3000, Teac V-700 (which also as a loud continous popping audio sound when I have gotten the tape to play forward).
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Best, Bill Edwards

As Tapehead47 stated, I've always heard you are supposed to use Denatured Alcohol. One time I was telling this audiophile guy that I was gonna buy some Isopropyl Alcohol to clean my tape deck, and he freaked out, insisting that I use Denatured instead, and that somehow Isopropyl would ruin the heads...so.....which one are you supposed to use?

As Tapehead47 stated, I've always heard you are supposed to use Denatured Alcohol. One time I was telling this audiophile guy that I was gonna buy some Isopropyl Alcohol to clean my tape deck, and he freaked out, insisting that I use Denatured instead, and that somehow Isopropyl would ruin the heads...so.....which one are you supposed to use?

I'd like to know the answer to this too because I just bought a big bottle of 99.9% IPA.

I've never used anything BUT Isopropyl. Never heard of it "ruining" the tape head but maybe it somehow causes some degradation over a long period of time? :dunno:

I really don't think either one would do any significant damage.

Penkosey, I think that you may be on to something with Denatured alcohol. Perhaps we do get a bit overreliant on the Walgreens type of Isopropyl Alcohol and also that a rubber cleaner may be best for certain types of roller cleaning as also discussed. I look forward to any more thoughts on this and how the 99.9% variety works for ToTo Man and the expansion on John W's thoughts.

Gentlemen, thank you and Happy New Year to you and yours!

My thoughts expanded:

I have used Isopropyl for a several years with the tape player getting fairly heavy use and never noticed anything drastic; but then I've gone a number of years since then without doing very much with tapes. I just wonder if I would notice some sort of build up or damage if I had been using Iso nearly as frequently as before, say, for the last 10-15 years.

In the Sticky it mentions that Parts Express sells a rubber cleaner. I did a search there and got zero hits. Can someone provide a product name? I'm giving my Teac 4300 the once over and would like to get the correct product. Thanks...

I was always under the impression that one should regularly demagnitize heads on open reel machines.

Today I was talking to someone who specializes in servicing such equipment and he indicated that it was not necessary and that sound quality will not suffer. Only heads with erasing magnets need a demagnitizer and those are far and few between.

Now, help me put this to rest. Please... Should heads be demagnitized and why?

thanks so much!!!!

I spent a very short time working as a tech for the company in the above link testing out head cleaning methods on VCRs, audio tape decks and computer back-up tape decks (usually 8mm VCR style tapes). I was responsible for following the engineering procedures and checking the results under the scope and documenting with ultra zoom photos. For intial cleaning I would use IPA (100% from a medical supply store) and foam swab and get all the dirt and loose particles of tape debris. We also had our brand of heavy duty cleaner with trichlorotrifluoroethane (this might be a banned substance now)that I'd spray on the swabs for a really good scrubbing. This was good enough for the before photos. After days of running old beat up tape through the units I'd take photos of the "dirty" heads, I'd then clean them with our automatic units (wet or dry cartridges depending on application) for the "freshly cleaned" photos. Of course hand cleaning is more thorough than cartridges but most people weren't comfortable opening up the units.

It is very interesting and very helpful info. on what you determined was best for cleaning VCR's, Tape Decks, etc. What is the actual differences between 100% IPA and Denatured Alcohol Solvent? That is what I am using for the heads. Do you have any thoughts on the use of Acetone for cleaning up rubber.

A stereo repair shop that does repairs told me that this would be just as effective on rubber pinch rollers as it does pick up a lot of dirt. However, I wonder if this is too strong as when I do apply it to a black rubber, I get a black residue right away (wondering if I am really taking of rubber as opposed to cleaning and softening it.). By do this, I may also be stretching out the rubber a bit?

For example, I have a Sharp RT-30 Deck. This deck is not in any way to be construed as being as higher-end deck, but it emits a great reproduction of sound. However, one of the inside wheels (capistan?) that the rubber is driven on is starting to oscillate more back and forth and starting to make noise. At the same time, the tape may stop if too tension when either being played, FF, or Rewound. So I am not sure if the drive belt was already stretched, or if I was actually degregating it a bit more by using the Acetone. Granted, this deck is over 25 years old and the belts probably have had their heyday a long time ago. :)-

Thanks again Bone Yard. Do you are anyone else have opinions on Acetone for cleaning rubber and the difrerence between denatured and 100% IPA?

Best, Bill

Penkosey, I think that you may be on to something with Denatured alcohol. Perhaps we do get a bit overreliant on the Walgreens type of Isopropyl Alcohol and also that a rubber cleaner may be best for certain types of roller cleaning as also discussed. I look forward to any more thoughts on this and how the 99.9% variety works for ToTo Man and the expansion on John W's thoughts.

Gentlemen, thank you and Happy New Year to you and yours!

Denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol (ethanol) with poison in it so you can't drink it. Ethanol is the type of alcohol that is in alcoholic beverages we drink (or at least I do). Denatured means "a specific property of ethanol, its usefulness as a beverage, is removed". Don't used denatured alcohol on tape heads, it it not as effective as IPA. IPA has been used to clean tape heads since the 50s. According to my father, who was an engineer at Ampex, IPA was what they used with all of their machines or Tolulene.

Now if someone said don't use rubbing alcohol I can understand that, it is IPA with additives to soothe the skin and you sure don't want that on your heads. Don't buy your IPA at the drug store. Go to the US Recording website and you can get professional head cleaner (which is IPA) there or you can order order it from Parts Express, Techspray IPA (Part Number 341-407). I found by the time your are all said and done, it is almost as cheep to just get it from US Recording.

As far as rubber cleaner, you need a seperate rubber cleaner/treatment for your rubber parts. You don't want to get IPA anywhere near rubber parts, it dries them out. As far at the rubber cleaner you want it you can use Techspray Rubber Rejuvinator (Parts Express Part No. 341-362). Caig also makes a great product called CaiKleenTM RBR, I prefer it to the Techspray rubber treatment. Parts Express does not carry it but lots of other places do. Just make sure it is the CailKleen Rubber product and not the fader lube.

There is really is no argument or dispute over what to use to clean tape heads, it is IPA. Denatured ethyl alcohol is not going to cause you any problems either, but it is not as effective and I believe costs more. If the cost keeps you from using it as often then it is for sure a big drawback. You can clean your heads after every R2R tape if you want with no problem. Of course, you should not just be cleaning the heads, you should clean the whole tape path, every metal part that the tape comes in contact with.

Hope some of this helps.

Travis

In the Sticky it mentions that Parts Express sells a rubber cleaner. I did a search there and got zero hits. Can someone provide a product name? I'm giving my Teac 4300 the once over and would like to get the correct product. Thanks...

Bluespower,

See my post just about about rubber cleaner.

Travis

I used Techspray on the large rubber roller of my 20 year old Quinton EKG/ Treadmill machine. The thermal paper would jam because the roller had lost it's grip. The product helped for a couple of weeks but then the problem returned. After nearly passing out when given a quote for a replacement roller, I received a tip from the bio-med tech at the hospital. He told me that he uses ordinary laquer thinner. I tried it once, and it has been about year, and the old roller shows no sign of slippage.

Hi Travis, THANK YOU for taking the time to help me understand the differences with the alcohol and differences. Thank God that my intentions with denatured alcholol are for audio related only :)-

I have also used IPA 70% basically to clean off dirt and fingerpints, smudges, etc. on the panel knobs, controls, etc. but careful to keep them off any markings.

That is very cool that your Dad worked at Ampex. They were the standard with reel-to-reel recorders and remember that the college radio station I worked for in Milwaukee in the mid 1970's had Ampex R-to-R tape decks.

I will utilize your recommendations here.

What do you think of SoundDoc03's thoughts on lacquer thinner?

Thank you so much for your help as this will be for anyone else searching for this type of info on AK.

Thank you also SoundDoc!

Best, Bill

Travis - Thanks for the info on the "nature" of denatured alchohol.

I've used IPA on pinchrollers for years and haven't yet had a problem, but what you stated about that makes sense. I'm now thinking about getting that Caig product. It's almost too easy to just press play and move the swab from the head to the roller as soon as you're done cleaning the head.

My technique for cassette capstan and pinchroller cleaning, FWIW: I just place the swab against the roller while the machine is on play and the capstan is turning it - must be careful not to let the swab get caught between the two! Every 10 seconds or so, I rotate the swab a bit to get another clean surface. I only grab a new swab when the old one is completely full of crud, and I keep doing this until I can't get off any more crud.

Travis

Nice write-up! Thanks for the product info.

I "second" Bluespower's sentiment. Thank you John W!

Travis - Thanks for the info on the "nature" of denatured alchohol.



My technique for cassette capstan and pinchroller cleaning, FWIW: I just place the swab against the roller while the machine is on play and the capstan is turning it - must be careful not to let the swab get caught between the two! Every 10 seconds or so, I rotate the swab a bit to get another clean surface. I only grab a new swab when the old one is completely full of crud, and I keep doing this until I can't get off any more crud.

I do the same thing on R2R, but knowing that the alcohol is getting on the pinchroller I follow it right up with the rubber treatment on the rubber only. The alcohol does not seem to have enough time to dry things out that way.

Travis

Hi Travis, THANK YOU for taking the time to help me understand the differences with the alcohol and differences. Thank God that my intentions with denatured alcholol are for audio related only :)- Well you would have to drink a lot of it to kill you, it tastes so bad you would have a hard time doing that. Wood alcohol, on the other hand, will make you go blind.

I have also used IPA 70% basically to clean off dirt and fingerpints, smudges, etc. on the panel knobs, controls, etc. but careful to keep them off any markings. I would try and get the chemical grade IPA from Techtronics or US Recording for the heads and tapepath, you will not have to worry about unlisted additives and can be sure of the purity

That is very cool that your Dad worked at Ampex. They were the standard with reel-to-reel recorders and remember that the college radio station I worked for in Milwaukee in the mid 1970's had Ampex R-to-R tape decks. It comes in handy in a lot of ways, he is a great source of information. Ampex was for sure the standard in R2R, a real shame they could not keep up. Studer was quoted as saying that his goal in life was to make a machine better then the Ampex; he said he matched it, but never exceeded it

I will utilize your recommendations here.

What do you think of SoundDoc03's thoughts on lacquer thinner? Not too sure about that. I know that I don't like the Techtronics Rubber treatment either, but I would try the Caig product before I reverted to lacquer thinner. There are generally two problems with rubber rollers, they either get dried out or they leach out chemicals and become gummy to the point of being inoperable. Pioneer RT rollers are notorious for the gummy issue, but the more common issue is the drying out problem. When they get so dry, almost glazed, they lose their grip. The Caig product is great for this. If this did not help, I would try anything, including lacquer thinner, to avoid having to track down another oem princh roller or worse, having to have one rebuilt.

Thank you so much for your help as this will be for anyone else searching for this type of info on AK.

Thank you also SoundDoc!

Best, Bill

Hope this helps

Excellent and thank you again for your insight dwilawyer on my questions! Best, Bill

Penkosey, I think that you may be on to something with Denatured alcohol. Perhaps we do get a bit overreliant on the Walgreens type of Isopropyl Alcohol and also that a rubber cleaner may be best for certain types of roller cleaning as also discussed. I look forward to any more thoughts on this and how the 99.9% variety works for ToTo Man and the expansion on John W's thoughts.

Gentlemen, thank you and Happy New Year to you and yours!

Denatured alchohol is ethanol with something added to make it undrinkable.

Ethanol is straight grain alcohol, you have to buy it at the liquor store and it is taxed to death, but a pint is less than $10 and as an electronics or glass cleaner you do not need a lot. Everclear is the most common brand. It is 95% and that is about as high (99.5% anhydrous can be obtained from chemical supply companies, but finish the sentence) as you can get if you open it to the air as it sucks moisure right out of the air.

Wood alcohol is methanol. Poisonous stuff usually used in paintlike products.

Isopropanol is, I think, made from petrolium. It is usually used for medical purposes.

Rubbing alcohol is isopropanol that is mixed with some skin softener type of thing, and is what you buy off the shelf at the drug store.

Probably the best to use for cleaning your tape deck, or camera lenses is the Everclear from the liquor store as it does not leave anything behind when it evaporates. Straight isopropanol, not rubbing alcohol, is second.

Hope this is helpful.

Thank you Greywolf -this will be my first initiative to go into a Liquor Department on behalf of stereo maintenance and cleaning! I appreciate and learned from your comparisons on the different types of alchohol.

I finally was able to find lintless/sponge-type swabs that will be a big help.

Best, Bill

Caig also makes a great product called CaiKleenTM RBR, I prefer it to the Techspray rubber treatment. Parts Express does not carry it but lots of other places do.Amazon carries it and a few others:

http://www.amazon.com/Caikleen-Rbr-Rbr100l-25c-Rubber-Cleaner/dp/B0009JFF5W

http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/searchdetail.asp?productID=3127

http://www.computercasesandcables.com/ccc/214-0140.html

This larger can looks to be a better value:

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog_name=MCMProducts&product_id=200-202

My cassette deck has a problem with recording a muffled left channel and a clear right channel. How do you fix that??

I recall years ago hearing a tip from a stereo tech that oil of wintergreen (available at the drugstore) rejuvenates rubber quite well. Smells minty fresh too - but don't drink it, its poisonous. Leaves the rollers looking soft and pliable like new, I've used it before with only good results. Does a certain degree of cleaning with some rubbing on a swab, let it soak in a bit then wipe away excess and let dry.

My cassette deck has a problem with recording a muffled left channel and a clear right channel. How do you fix that??

If the cleaning info you find here doesn't help that problem, it's more of a repair issue. In that case I suggest either starting a new thread for it or contacting one of the techs on this site.

I swear when I play tapes on my deck that Side A sounds a bit dull. When it flips over to Side B (auto-reverse) that side sounds brighter overall. I have even manually flipped the tape (Side B takes the place of Side A) then played the tape and Side B now sounds dull and Side A sounds ok.

Happens on multiple tapes so this leads me to rule out the tapes.

I've cleaned the heads and capstans with 91% alcohol. I don't have any roller cleaner to try that yet.

Can one direction of play get messed up this way or could I be imaging things?

(All Dolby is turned off when playing)

thanks

I swear when I play tapes on my deck that Side A sounds a bit dull. When it flips over to Side B (auto-reverse) that side sounds brighter overall. I have even manually flipped the tape (Side B takes the place of Side A) then played the tape and Side B now sounds dull and Side A sounds ok.

Happens on multiple tapes so this leads me to rule out the tapes.

I've cleaned the heads and capstans with 91% alcohol. I don't have any roller cleaner to try that yet.

Can one direction of play get messed up this way or could I be imaging things?

(All Dolby is turned off when playing)

thanks

There are two issues that create this problem. The first is mechnical, that is the tape path is out of adjustment in some way. As the tape is off line and it goes through the guides it causes the tape to bow, which casues it to lift up from the heads, which causes the sound to drop. This effect has more of an effect on recording then playback, but it will cause a difference in the frequency response and playback of one channel over the other. So first look so see that the tape is ridding nice and smooth through the entire tape path, including guide rollers, buide pins and tape heads. You will need to pull off any head covers that you can and lay it horzintal. If head cover won't come off you will need one of the dentist mirrors and good light.

If that is not the problem then it is in the electronics and it can be a whole host of issues, playback bias circuit is going bad, bad head, etc.

Can you get the side A to sound the same as side B if you increase the tape output? Or is there also a difference in sound?

What brand and model of deck do you have?

Travis

There are two issues that create this problem. The first is mechnical, that is the tape path is out of adjustment in some way. As the tape is off line and it goes through the guides it causes the tape to bow, which casues it to lift up from the heads, which causes the sound to drop. This effect has more of an effect on recording then playback, but it will cause a difference in the frequency response and playback of one channel over the other. So first look so see that the tape is ridding nice and smooth through the entire tape path, including guide rollers, buide pins and tape heads. You will need to pull off any head covers that you can and lay it horzintal. If head cover won't come off you will need one of the dentist mirrors and good light.

If that is not the problem then it is in the electronics and it can be a whole host of issues, playback bias circuit is going bad, bad head, etc.

Can you get the side A to sound the same as side B if you increase the tape output? Or is there also a difference in sound?

What brand and model of deck do you have?

Travis

Well this a Pioneer ct-wm77r, not a vintage deck. I will have to see what I can do to see the tape path as you described. I did have another deck laying around and hooked it up. Now this one sounds better and plays a bit louder at the same volume level. Meaning I play a tape in the "problem" deck at a certain volume setting. Leave the volume setting,take that tape and put it into the other deck and it sounds louder at that volume setting.

One more thing is that at times I believe the problem deck seems ok. I just played a tape and it really sounded better than when I originally posted but not quite as loud as the other deck I hooked up.

This thing has never had the pinch rollers replaced. Would that be advisable just in general? I can clearly see a path worn on one of them for sure and will have to take the cover off to get a look at the others.

thx

A very informative thread, indeed!

I own a 3-head '97 Nakamichi DR-1 that's hardly used anymore (was bought for a home recording studio that was later sold). I haven't recorded anything since then ('99) and it's used only for playback, maybe used 10 hours or less a year now. I have always maintained all my decks; clean the heads and capstans with Walgreens 91% IPA after about 10 hours or less of use (and before every recording session), and have always used the same alcohol for the pinch rollers without any drying out of the rubber from what I can tell (maybe I've been lucky so far).

The instruction manual for the DR-1 says to use a zero-residue flourocarbon-based fluid for both the heads/capstans and pinch rollers. What is this type of cleaning fluid that's safe on metal and rubber parts, and where would I find such a product?

By the way, I have a Nakamichi DM-10 wand demagnetizer that I also use every time I clean the heads...works great (used as instructed, natch).

The other r to r group I belong to has a regularly scheduled rant about headcleaning every so often. The end result is bashed heads (human variety) and hurt feelings. Just kidding about the bashed heads.

But here's the bee's knees as far as I'm concerned as far as head cleaning and rubber cleaning:

http://www.usrecordingmedia.com/cleanwipandm.html

They also sell degaussers.

Thank you Greywolf -this will be my first initiative to go into a Liquor Department on behalf of stereo maintenance and cleaning! I appreciate and learned from your comparisons on the different types of alchohol.

I finally was able to find lintless/sponge-type swabs that will be a big help.

Best, Bill

I'm not sure why I didn't think of this before...

A little for the pinch roller, a little for John...A little more for the pinch roller, a little MORE for John...:drunk::D

(Just for the record, I don't REALLY drink straight Everclear. No, really! :para:)

I have a Sony K717 ES 3 head cassette deck that I bought in 1994. I haven't used it much, since burning CD's took the place of tape cassettes, but whenever I have, it has always been excellent in every way. I used it about 6 months ago to play a cassette and it worked well.
Recently, when I tried to play a cassette, it would not play. It would FF and RW perfectly, but just not play. Since I am not very knowledgeable about the inner workings of the unit, I did some inquiring and was told that it sounded as if the drive belt needed to be replaced. I removed the door of the tape compartment and looked at the rollers etc but could not find
a drive belt or a broken drive belt or any remnant thereof.
I did find the drive belt part online, but I have no clue how I would install it or how it should fit on the rollers.
Can anyone advise me on how I could remedy this?
I don't want to throw this machine away and I am unable to find anyone to repair it that wouldn't charge an exorbitant amount of money just to give an estimate on the repair cost.
Any suggestions?
Thanks

Hi missminni, welcome to AudioKarma. It's a funny coincidence that I just bought a Sony TC-K717ES on "that auction site" today. The seller said it was having a bit of trouble with the fast forward and rewind, so it sounds like I'll be replacing a belt myself on the same deck as yours.

This tape deck has three motors, one for the play capstans, one for the reels, and one for the door. The play and reel motors are inside the deck, and have rubber belts that connect them to the play capstans (the small metal shafts that the rollers pinch the tape against) and to the parts that turn the tape reels. To get to the belts, the metal chassis cover has to be removed first, and then there is probably some amount of disassembly of the tape transport that's needed to get to the point where the new belts can be put on. This is something that some of the folks on AK can do themselves, and others would look for someone to do it for them. Sorry, but until I pick my deck up and take a close look at it, I can't say how complicated a job it is.

When you ask for repair advice, it would be helpful if you put in your profile where you live, at least a general area if not your city. Or even just mention it in your post. Then you may be able to hook up with someone local to you that can help out. Good luck!

Hi missminni, welcome to AudioKarma. It's a funny coincidence that I just bought a Sony TC-K717ES on "that auction site" today. The seller said it was having a bit of trouble with the fast forward and rewind, so it sounds like I'll be replacing a belt myself on the same deck as yours.

This tape deck has three motors, one for the play capstans, one for the reels, and one for the door. The play and reel motors are inside the deck, and have rubber belts that connect them to the play capstans (the small metal shafts that the rollers pinch the tape against) and to the parts that turn the tape reels. To get to the belts, the metal chassis cover has to be removed first, and then there is probably some amount of disassembly of the tape transport that's needed to get to the point where the new belts can be put on. This is something that some of the folks on AK can do themselves, and others would look for someone to do it for them. Sorry, but until I pick my deck up and take a close look at it, I can't say how complicated a job it is.

When you ask for repair advice, it would be helpful if you put in your profile where you live, at least a general area if not your city. Or even just mention it in your post. Then you may be able to hook up with someone local to you that can help out. Good luck!

Thanks Charlie.
I posted the same question on the DIY thread and got a couple of responses that you might find interesting too.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=126887
So funny because I saw your K717 ES on ebay LOL. How much did it end up costing?
I never repaired audio equipment before, but it seems that my only other option is to get rid of the deck, and I like it too much to do that. I am going to attempt the repair myself, and since I found this forum I feel a bit better about attempting it since there seems to be expert advice available.
I live in Manhattan, downtown, and I cannot tell you how many stereo repairs I called who refused to even touch the deck. Nobody will repair a unit that old.
I used to have a buddy who was a sound engineer and could fix anything but he moved to Florida and now I am at a loss for help. If it is possible to hook me up with someone local who could help me, I would soooo appreciate it.
Thanks for your advice.

Deagussing ( Demagnetizing )


Turn the demagntizer on at least 3 feet away from your deck,
slowly move in to the tape path, move the degausser slowly back and fourth without touching the heads.
Slowly move it away again to at least 3 feet ( 1 meter ) before releasing the button.

Repeat this on the metal tape guides on each side of the heads (reel to reel)
NEVER relaese the demagnetizer when close to the heads...you will put a permanent magnetic charge on them, that no degaussing will remove, so be sure to concentrate while you are doing this.

A clean and properly demagnetized tape recorder will maintain it's performance without any other attention for quite a while.

Good Luck, :)

What about the erase heads... should these be included in the demag procedure? I seem to have read somewhere the erase heads should NOT be demagnetized...

Thanks
Rick

I seem to have read somewhere the erase heads should NOT be demagnetized...

Thanks
Rick

You seem to have read correctly. :yes:

IIRC, erase heads work by producing magnetism and thus wiping out the signal. Kind of like a really thorough signal scrambler. All that's left is the usual weak tape hiss. So demagnetizing them is useless at best, possibly damaging at worst.

hi all!

what do you guys think about this cleaner/demag combo? is it safe to use?

http://shadowlord.at/images/trackm8.jpg

i clean the tape heads with IP and a q-tip from time to time but never thought about demagnetising them. i'm heasitant to buy a degauser and use it myself so i would rather use the demag/cleaner tape.

I have been using one like this one on an Aiwa AD-F880 cassette deck. The cassette compartment is rather stupid designed and doesn't allow easy access to cotton stubs.

However, periodicaly, I have to go in with a flash light and clean everything with cotton and alcohol. The cleaning tape is good enough for the tape head but does nothing to the capstan or pinch rollers.

I have a Denon DRS-810 (tray loading) deck. What is the best way to clean/
de-magnetise the heads and rollers? It seems that taking the cover off the
unit is the only way to get access to the heads etc. Is this not a big deal,
or is there another way to go about this?

Nevermind

OK after a couple false starts due to wrong rubber band size, I think I have my tape deck working consistently that I can't detect any pitch problems.

Disclaimer fine print: I have nowhere near the experience of others. And can't tell you an idler wheel from a flywheel. I just googled and couldn't find any pictures to know what I'm talking about so I just refer to big and small wheels. It is always recommended to use oem specifications. This post is not recommended, only posted for curiosity seekers and gawkers. Not responsible, blah, blah, blah for damages. I was lucky, your mileage may vary. If you have actual belts just substitute "belt" for "rubber band" accordingly.


***

I have a Harman Kardon TD292 tape deck. I replaced the belts temporarily with rubber bands. Actually, as cheap and lazy as I am, more like until they don't work.

The TD292 is an elegant, simply-designed, lightweight machine.

You can take the bottom cover and/or top cover off. Bottom off gives you easier access to the smaller motor spindle. Both gives you maximum maneuverability.

Removing belts:

Check the alignment and path of the original belts and the grooves they occupy.

Remove the one screw holding the back plate of the cassette chassis and spindle motor and open this end slightly like a gate. If it's stuck use a small flathead screw driver to pop it open a little. I did not completely remove the back plate. Nothing is going to go boing or wheels fall off. Notice there is one spindle that goes through a hole in the back plate for alignment when you close the back again.

You can use long tweezers to grab and align the rubber bands onto the wheels.

I read from PRB online that belts should be 5-10% smaller. This is because of wear and stretch, which is why you want to replace in the first place. Which also makes finding replacements a mystery. Let alone know if they are using inches or centimeters.

Removed the big belt first.

Measuring size matters:
I just squeezed the originals together (actually stretching it with two ball point pen tips over a ruler) and the original was about 4". I finally replaced it with a rubber band about 3". The cross width of the original about 6/32" and the rubber band was about 4/32". Better to use less wide than too wide for the spindle. My first attempt was a failure because it was too wide and the rubber band came off the pulley and started scraping off rubber dust. My second attempt: the rubber was too long and slipped off the spindle, causing rubbing sounds and chipmunk speed pitches on vocals. Keep jokes to yourself please.

The smaller belt was about 2 3/4" and I used a replacement about 2 1/2".

Note: These are not circumference measurements! To get the inner circumference you multiply by 2 if ordering online.

Replacing the belts:
Cleaned the wheel on the spindle motor with alcohol.

I found it easier to put the rubber band around the bigger wheels then stretch it to the smaller wheel on the motor spindle with the deck upside down and working from the bottom.

Replaced the smaller belt first. No problems. Should be easy.

Then center the 3" rubber band around the big metal wheel and pull to the smaller wheel on the motor spindle. Does not have to be perfect at this time.

Close by aligning the spindle to the hole and screw down the back plate so it is not loose.

Turn on the tape deck and the big wheel should turn and hopefully self-adjust and center the belt. I am amazed how well it holds center.

Alignment of this bigger belt onto wheel turned by the motor is critical. I found out when it played Rolling Stones fine, then speeded up like chipmunks after about 15 minutes during my first failures. I also tested with Barry Manilow, but who can tell? My first couple rubber bands were too long or too wide and slipped off the spindle itself and rubbed against the black cloth covered coil. It should be riding the center (over the slight bulge/hump) on the wheel of the spindle motor and the corresponding bigger metal wheel. If it slips too far either way away from that middle bulge on the spindle motor wheel, then you could hear scraping.

The wheel has that slight hump in the middle to apparently keep the belt in line.

After those false starts due to alignment of the rubber band slipping. I have listened to several cassettes all the way through without any problems. Before it couldn't finish a whole cassette without slipping chipmunks. I wound up using a 3" rubber band. Even though the original stretched out belt was about 4". That's actually a deduction of more than the 5-10% recommended but it might be because it's the softer, stretchier - yet stronger kind. But seems to work ... today ....


***

Bonus Cleaning tip.
When cleaning tape decks which have been stored awhile. If they have problems playing, stalling, and stop. Try aggressively cleaning the rubber pinch rollers. Especially the rubber pinch rollers if they are black/brown until at least a light gray. Amazing how much friction that can cause. Also clean the rest of the tape path, lightly lube moving parts and deoxit contacts. I resurrected previously lost cause Onkyo TA2090 and Yamaha K-1020 this way.

I recently picked up a Pioneer CT-F8282 cassette deck. Replaced the belts and tire. At the same time i used radio shack 64-4315.

I have 2 problems:

1. I can't get the rew/ff to work. My concern is that the radio shack control cleaner left behind an oily residue. This might be problematic with the rew/ff issue. Could use some advise on how the clean up the residue.

2. Prior to replacing the belts i removed the counter belt so the player would work. the counter and motion sensor would cause the belt to slip and prevent the motion sensor to work. Now the belt is slipping again. Could be the ole radio shack control cleaner.

If would be of great help to have a exploded view of the rewind/ff assembly. I could possibly dis-assemble the tire assembly for cleaning.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Mark

I recently picked up a Pioneer CT-F8282 cassette deck. Replaced the belts and tire. At the same time i used radio shack 64-4315.

I have 2 problems:

1. I can't get the rew/ff to work. My concern is that the radio shack control cleaner left behind an oily residue. This might be problematic with the rew/ff issue. Could use some advise on how the clean up the residue.

2. Prior to replacing the belts i removed the counter belt so the player would work. the counter and motion sensor would cause the belt to slip and prevent the motion sensor to work. Now the belt is slipping again. Could be the ole radio shack control cleaner.

If would be of great help to have a exploded view of the rewind/ff assembly. I could possibly dis-assemble the tire assembly for cleaning.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Mark

If the cleaner left an oily residue, maybe try a q-tip to clean the belts. If that doesn't work, not sure what would be a good safe liquid cleaner. You may want to ask in a separate thread.

Here's a link that details some problems with the CT-F8282:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=174218&highlight=ct-f8282

there are some links to schematics and service manual that may help on the last page post #49 and #52.

You may want to create a separate thread asking for help in the Pioneer forum too.

i have an allsop cassette demagnetizer and it's been a year or two since i used it. the recorders were not used either.
i lost the directions for it so would someone tell me how to correctly use it in my nak 600, sony, and vector res'rch recorders.
just to be safe, 'cuz i forgot.
i am waiting for a wand type to be delivered but it wont be here 'til next week.

thanks!

i have an allsop cassette demagnetizer and it's been a year or two since i used it. the recorders were not used either.
i lost the directions for it so would someone tell me how to correctly use it in my nak 600, sony, and vector res'rch recorders.
just to be safe, 'cuz i forgot.
i am waiting for a wand type to be delivered but it wont be here 'til next week.

thanks!
my wand degausser got here 2 days early so i used it on the 630dss. quite a difference! also did my cassette decks.

this past week i took delivery of a nakamichi mr-1. i cleaned/degaussed heads, etc but cleaning the heads is a pita!

do any mr-1 owners out there know of an easier way to clean the play head-it's like it is placed in a groove between the two metal 'guides' and hard to reach with a standard q-tip, even with the door off.

thanks!

my wand degausser got here 2 days early so i used it. quite a difference!

this past week i took delivery of a nakamichi mr-1. i cleaned/degaussed heads, etc but cleaning the heads is a pita!

do any mr-1 owners out there know of an easier way to clean the play head-it's like it is placed in a groove between the two metal 'guides' and hard to reach with a standard q=tip, even with the door off.

thanks!

I don't know if it would help in your situation, but you can get those sponge-tip dealies; they're like q-tips but the heads are narrower and they don't unravel. I think you can get them at your local Rat Shack. Quite a bit more expensive than Q-Tips, but probably worth it. No pesky cotton threads wrapped around your spindle.

Yep, the Wand is the Only Way!! (Hmmm...That sounds like some kind of wierd religious cult. Maybe I should start one..."Seek the Wand!!") Why do a half-arsed degaussing job when a whole-arsed method exists?? :yes:

Hope that helps,
John

thanks. i'll look for those.

TEAC V-900X

Problem:
Does not Play.
Tape snarls and jams looping around capstan and pinch roller.
Rewinds and Fast Forward ok

Review:
First, did the usual lube of moving parts and cleaning of tape path heads, capstan and pinch rollers to make sure that wasn't the problem.

Direct drive capstan so no belt there.
But there is one belt that attaches to two plastic wheels that help drive the transport up. One large that connects to gears, and one small that directly connects to the motor below.

Removed deck well cover.

When I depress the sensors in the cassette well to make it think a cassette is in and press play, the large wheel barely moves, stops and the transport and pinch roller do not fully engage with capstan. Take up reel spindle does not activate. Which may be why the tape spools and jams.

When I manually rotate the large wheel (right to left in the photo), it drives the transport up until the pinch roller meets the spinning capstan which spins the pinch roller. As I continue to manually turn the large wheel, the gears turned by the wheel reach a certain point, then the take up reel spindle also starts spinning.

My guess: The belt did not have enough tension to rotate the large wheel to fully move the transport up and engage the gears that activate the take up spindle.

Solution:
Rather than take apart the tape well. I took an approximate size rubber band and cut it.

Powered off and unplugged to avoid shorting anything while using metal probe and tweezers.

Using tweezers, I pushed one end down the right side of the large wheel (see photo) toward the smaller wheel below it.
With an 8 1/2" probe, I nudged it close enough to the smaller wheel from the right. Then switched to the left with the probe and tried to pull the loose end over and grab it with long tweezers from the left. Pulled up the loose end up so I could control both ends. Holding the end on the right with my right hand, I used tweezers with my left to position the rubber band under the smaller wheel and pulled up to secure it to the groove on the small wheel like a sling. Then pulled up to create tension around the large wheel and secured it with an overhand knot. Trimmed the ends with scissors. As you can see in the photo I left the original black drive belt on. They can coexist. [Note: on hindsight, it may have been easier to thread the rubber band if I had removed the bottom cover.]

You can see the probe on the left with the red tip. I used it to pull the belt away so you can see the knot in the photo. In actual position, the black drive belt pretty much covers the rubber band which rides the inner groove.

It works.

2nd photo shows meters working because it plays!

Disclaimer: I am not a tech. This is just something I did that works for me and specific to TEAC V-900X. Different tape decks have different implementations and sensors so this will not work for all situations. I had left the original black drive belt on because I wasn't sure this was going to work.

Would this be a worthy demagnetizer for my reel to reel machines and cassette decks?

http://tinyurl.com/64vk4m

Hi guys. I recently (2-3 months or so) had my X1000R serviced by the New Jersey Factory Service Center. They installed a new and proper capstan belt and checked the whole unit out saying it was in great shape and was functioning accordingly.

I had occasion to try playing an acquired tape which was recorded at 3.75 ips and was shocked to hear the tape speed warbling up and down. Even in the stop mode you can hear the capstan motor warbling up and down and not the constant note expected. This does not occur on 7.5 ips setting.

I was hoping for opinions as to what's happening here and is it something I might take a look at. I'm not a techie type of guy so I wouldn't want to attempt major surgery here.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

David

pucho

i'm experiencing a similar problem (at both speeds!) with both my akai gx630dss and gx230d r2rs, both occurances on tues night-what are the odds of that happening.
i found that by jiggleing the speed selector switch the speed corrects itself on both recorders. but it's only a temporary fix.

a couple of the experts here and elsewhere suggest opening the machine and cleaning and spraying switches with deoxit.
so i'll get some deoxit tomorrow and try to do that. i'm no techie either but this doesnt seem like it should be too difficult.

dont know if this will help but i hope it does.

These old tape demag's.... does anyone use them?

Hope you can read the pics...

This is a great thread for anyone into taping. Everything here goes way back. The new thing I learned was not to use IPA on the capstan or belts. I have a fluid from GC Electronics called rubber roller Restorer that I believe is used for that purpose (have not used it in awhile). I will get with Parts Express for the correct cleaner.

I have a Nortronics Demagnetizer I bought in 1979 for 18 bucks. It is a good one. I cannot imagine what they cost now. But yes, demagnetizing is done just as described here. Always with the unit off and turn it on an off away from the deck.

Now if we could just get some info on what to oil and grease in the deck to keep it on top! :yes:

Thanks!

These old tape demag's.... does anyone use them?

Hope you can read the pics...

The erase head used in most decks for re-recording generally do a pretty good job. Unless you've got a bulk operation where you do a lot of double speed recording, I don't see a use for it myself.

Back in the 70's my dad used one of those for duplicating church sermons on a machine that did something like 8 tapes at a time, double speed, but the tapes had to be pre-erased.




I have a Nortronics Demagnetizer I bought in 1979 for 18 bucks. It is a good one.

Now if we could just get some info on what to oil and grease in the deck to keep it on top! :yes:

Thanks!

I've only used a Nortronics want myself so it's the only brand I know. It does a noticeably good job and it's recommended by some people I know who know what they're doing, so I stick with it.

robitaille03 - I don't know anything about that one that was on e-bay. I couldn't even find a brand name listed; just the model. But I'd still trust it over any cassette type.

Here's an exception to the usual advice of avoiding cleaning cassettes: I just picked up a "new" old truck with a nice cassette deck in it (well, for a car deck anyhow). Sounds like crap compared to the CD source. It won't ever sound as good as the CD player (for reasons other than the digital vs. analog arguement, which I wont get into here) but this is quite a huge difference with a well recorded tape. So I need to demag and clean it, then see if things improve. As far as cleaning, it doesn't look like I'm going to do much good without a cleaning cassette. Short of pulling it out and opening it up, that's really the only way I know of to clean those.

Does anyone remember the Bib Audiophile Edition tape demagnetizer, made in England? Comes with a short and long screw-on wand with red (rubber) coating? I still have the one I bought back in the 80's . . . still works great!

Do Tascam rtr machines require any motor lubrication? How about any other lube? Does anyone have experience doing this? I'd like to do any maintenance on my new Tascam 34B myself if possible.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=134331&d=1234055515

pucho

i'm experiencing a similar problem (at both speeds!) with both my akai gx630dss and gx230d r2rs, both occurances on tues night-what are the odds of that happening.
i found that by jiggleing the speed selector switch the speed corrects itself on both recorders. but it's only a temporary fix.

a couple of the experts here and elsewhere suggest opening the machine and cleaning and spraying switches with deoxit.
so i'll get some deoxit tomorrow and try to do that. i'm no techie either but this doesnt seem like it should be too difficult.

dont know if this will help but i hope it does.
a little late posting this-
it worked. both speeds on both recorders are now stable!:banana:
:music:

Do Tascam rtr machines require any motor lubrication? How about any other lube? Does anyone have experience doing this? I'd like to do any maintenance on my new Tascam 34B myself if possible.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=134331&d=1234055515

All three motors has sealed bearings, no oil needed but the two tension arms rollers need one small drop of light machine oil every 6 months ( Tascam's suggestion )
Just unscrew the cap off the roller, pull cap, washer, roller and clean the shaft before apply one small drop, then re-install again.
Same scenario with the pinch-roller shaft, be sure your deck have the small washers installed, many times these are missing, suppose to be one on each side of the tension roller and pinch-roller. :thmbsp:

Gun-oil or Sewing machine oil is what I use :)

All three motors has sealed bearings, no oil needed but the two tension arms rollers need one small drop of light machine oil every 6 months ( Tascam's suggestion )
Just unscrew the cap off the roller, pull cap, washer, roller and clean the shaft before apply one small drop, then re-install again.
Same scenario with the pinch-roller shaft, be sure your deck have the small washers installed, many times these are missing, suppose to be one on each side of the tension roller and pinch-roller. :thmbsp:

Gun-oil or Sewing machine oil is what I use :)

Great, thanks! This machine doesn't seem to need a lot of maintenance then, and it looks like parts are still available for it. That's a relief.

[QUOTE=jayk;2481523]a little late posting this-
it worked. both speeds on both recorders are now stable!:banana:
:music:[/QUOTE

I haven't been logge in for awhile. What is Detoxit and where can I get some? would like to try to get my X1000R slow speed to work properly.
Thanks. David (Pucho)

[QUOTE=jayk;2481523]a little late posting this-
it worked. both speeds on both recorders are now stable!:banana:
:music:[/QUOTE

I haven't been logge in for awhile. What is Detoxit and where can I get some? would like to try to get my X1000R slow speed to work properly.
Thanks. David (Pucho)

i found it at a local hardware store here in vt.
try googling it and see if any chain h'ware stores near you have it or can get it
also, i think you can order it online from radio shack.com.
BTW, it's spelled deoxit, not 'detoxit'.

Jayk:

Thanks. I'll try to get some today.

David

I purchased it direct at:
http://www.deoxit.com/

You can also get DeOxit at Radio Shack, but only really small amounts and not a great value. However, if you don't foresee using it very often in the long run, the Shack may still be your best bet.

If you have a Guitar Center near buy, they have it. Last time I was in there I got the impression they were discontinuing carying it, the sales guy offered me a discount if I bought a couple of cans. Which I did. You might want to inquire about said discount.

The Teac head cleaner worked fine for me but I think it is no longer available. Regarding cassette type demagnetizers, i believe they must come in contact contact with the heads to be effective so they may not be adequate with 3-head Nakamichi decks that employ the pressure pad lifter.

My MX5050B manual says to put 2-3 drops of Otari oil PZ9E003 on the capstan bearing every 1000 hours, OR every 4 months.

Does anyone know what this special oil is, or if there is an acceptable substitute available?

I doubt I have put 1000 hours on this deck since it was last serviced, but it's been a lot of years since it was in regular service.

FWIW, the Otari manual also specifically states to use ONLY Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the heads and "all the tape guiding components, including the capstan and pinch roller". Also, "The heads and tape guiding components in the tape path should be demagnetized after every eight hours of operation".

Notice, no mention of NOT demagnetizing the erase head.

If you skip it, you could let magnetism build up between the tracks, which on a 1/4 track machine or cassette will work it's damage to the tracks you are NOT listening to.

I have a big bottle (almost gone) of 99% isopropynol that I bought back in the 80's when I was a tech at a major audio/video manufacturer... Exactly the same stuff we used to clean 30K$ VTR's (and the expensive ones too!) and 100K$ digital multi-tracks. Oh and back then I was told that Denatured Alcohol usually has Acetone in it as the poison additive, something that will never get near my decks!

It's always best to follow the manufacturers instructions for YOUR product. :music: If you have a deck so antiquated as to have a permanent magnet erase head, you might consider upgrading! AC bias WAS invented in the 40's after all... (BG)

The Teac head cleaner worked fine for me but I think it is no longer available. Regarding cassette type demagnetizers, i believe they must come in contact contact with the heads to be effective so they may not be adequate with 3-head Nakamichi decks that employ the pressure pad lifter.
i've always brought the tape wrapped probe end of a small wand type degausser to a hairs width just above cassette (or r2r) heads including my 2 nak. mr-1s with the p pad lifters. without ever actually touching the heads.

never a problem.

years ago i learned that no metal objects (ie unwrapped end of a wand type deguasser) were to ever touch a recorders heads.
even if it is wrapped, i dont touch the heads, just a hair above them.

...
1. When demagnetizing your heads, wrap a short piece of masking tape around the tip of the wand. It will prevent any damage incase of accidental contact with the head.



Soooo.... you're saying always use protection? :D

is somebodys mind in the gutter? heh, heh.
(as we used to say back in our child hood dayz.)

I'm shopping for a R2R head demagnetizer. There are dozens of ads of products that look similar and sell for 10-20 USD, Are these generic demagnetizers OK? How about this one http://usrecordingmedia-store.stores.yahoo.net/handmagdebyr.html , which is more expensive?



Many thanks for any suggestions!

I'm shopping for a R2R head demagnetizer. There are dozens of ads of products that look similar and sell for 10-20 USD, Are these generic demagnetizers OK? How about this one http://usrecordingmedia-store.stores.yahoo.net/handmagdebyr.html , which is more expensive?


Many thanks for any suggestions!

Interesting claim about tape hiss reduction on that site. Does anyone know if that's generally true?

I guess you could go ahead and buy it, then report back and let us know if it's true or just 'snake oil'!

OK all,we have used 99% isopropyl alcohol,we demag the heads
We for got one thing:scratch2:Sometime ago there was a Polish that Teac stated you should use on the heads.It had the properties of filling in the microscopic degradation of the heads outer layer, and extending the life of the head.The name of this thing was the legendary(Teac Stainless Polish SP-3)Were can you fine this.I have looked all over
Joe

I don't know if you can find it anymore (and I doubt it) but what about LAST Tape Head Treatment?

http://www.lastfactory.com/Products/tape_head_treatment.html

Alternatively, since Teac Stainless Polish was a stainless polish, what about any stainless polish?

I had one of the discwasher demagnetizers. GARBAGE!

I was having trouble with wow and flutter on my deck. I kept just running a generic head cleaner through it. The problem would go away, but it kept coming back really fast. So, I read this sticky. I cleaned it all out with a q-tip just as described and what a difference. The high end came back, the lows weren't so rumbling, and there was no flutter to speak of.

I use to swear by head cleaners, but not now. The manual approach is much better. The grime that came off the head was quite positive really.

My Pioneer sounds better too, and that deck wasn't giving me this problem. Although, my Pioneer has another problem with Deck A.

I'd probably get told off about my demagnetizing method, so I won't share that :P