View Full Version : Noisy Dual 1229


captouch
06-13-2013, 06:51 PM
My Dual 1229 sometimes will make a squeaky/friction noise (probably a better description out there, but I can't think of it) when the platter is turning.

There's a video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGUqUz-lWR8

Can anyone tell me what could be causing this? I assume somewhere needs to be lubed, but not sure where.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

gimpy
06-13-2013, 06:59 PM
Have you checked the dual reference website? It does have a download/pictures of actual lubrication points on the dual 1229 (I think).
Sorry, I can't personally help with the noise, though.

NoTransistors
06-13-2013, 07:14 PM
I have had some noisy Dual in my shop, but never one which was THAT loud, and still actually rotated.
The motor armature spins on bronze bushings, at around 1,500 R.P.M.. What else but dry bushings would make such a horrible noise?
Motor needs to be pulled, disassembled, and oiled, then oiled again, to quiet this down. Also put a drop of the same oil on the bronze bushing that supports the idler wheel.
I have posted many how-to's on this.
Hopefully, the motor bushings are still reasonably round and snug.
A 1229 should be and can be extremely quiet.

captouch
06-13-2013, 07:28 PM
I have had some noisy Dual in my shop, but never one which was THAT loud, and still actually rotated.
The motor armature spins on bronze bushings, at around 1,500 R.P.M.. What else but dry bushings would make such a horrible noise?
Motor needs to be pulled, disassembled, and oiled, then oiled again, to quiet this down. Also put a drop of the same oil on the bronze bushing that supports the idler wheel.
I have posted many how-to's on this.
Hopefully, the motor bushings are still reasonably round and snug.
A 1229 should be and can be extremely quiet.

Thanks Seth. I found this in a 2009 posting of yours:

Remove the motor, and be gentle when removing the four wires from their posts in the connection box. Also, note their positions.
Remove the brass pulley by loosening only the side screw. Leave the top screw alone!!!
Remove the dirt and dust.

Remove the two nuts, bolts, and star washers that hold the motor halves together.

Use a felt marker to note the relative position of the motor shells.

If the shells do not pry apart easily [I use a snap-ring pliers that expands when you squeeze its handgrip], then you will need to tap the halves apart using a screwdriver and a hammer.
Whatever method you use, just watch that you do not pierce the coil windings inside.
When you do get it apart, the core will remain on one shell.
Retain the two insulator tubes that fell out.
Retain the fiber washer that resided on top of the rotor.

Find some CLEAN 10W40 car engine oil. Use only this. No WD-40, no sewing machine oil, no Mobile 1. Nothing with fancy additives. Anything and everything could clog the porous bushings.

Oil top and bottom bushings. The oil will seep into the space around the bushings, where it will soak into place. There are hidden felt washers to hold even more oil.

Let it sit for a bit. Do it again. Wipe of excess, then put the puppy back together. Note that the bolts might be a bit short at first, so leave out the star washers to get them started, then add the washers after you get the halves a bit together. Also, tighten slowly and evenly.
If the motors bearings were salvagable, this fix will last for years.
Be certain to get your greasy fingerprints off the brass pulley before you turn the machine on.

This is what I need to do, correct?

I know the Duals are fairly complex mechanically and I've never worked on a TT before. Is this a realistic thing for a first-timer to do well and safely, or would you advise this be left for someone more experienced with Duals?

Thanks!

bobaloniny
06-13-2013, 10:33 PM
Dig in, you have the play by play from the best so you will succeed. Hardest part of the whole thing is getting the 2 halves of the case seperated.
This doc has pictures to get you familiar before you start.
http://akdatabase.com/AKview/displayimage.php?album=103&pos=0

NoTransistors
06-14-2013, 01:21 AM
To quote Steve Urkel, "Did I write that?"

Go for it.
A long time ago, I took a C.P.R. course. Students were all concerned over breaking a patient's ribs, or not getting the exact counts correct.
You know what the instructor said? "You can't kill someone who is already dead. But you may succeed in saving a life, so don't worry about this shit, just make the attempt.

In repairing this turntable's drive mechanism, you will not be getting involved in the complex auto-mechanism. So don't worry, just do it.

captouch
06-14-2013, 01:33 AM
Thanks guys. I'll pick up some 10/40 oil and give it a try. Everything else seems to work fine, just the noise, so hopefully this motor lubing will set me up for some trouble-free tunes for awhile. Will report back if I run into problems/questions or expect a dancing banana if I'm successful. :)

Gang-Twanger
06-14-2013, 02:07 AM
Thanks guys. I'll pick up some 10/40 oil and give it a try. Everything else seems to work fine, just the noise, so hopefully this motor lubing will set me up for some trouble-free tunes for awhile. Will report back if I run into problems/questions or expect a dancing banana if I'm successful. :)

Does it make the same noise when you shut the motor off (while it's still spinning)? That can help narrow it down. I've never heard one THAT loud before.

I'm currently running a 1019 and love it. It works magic on the '60's and '70's stuff I listen to mostly, but it can also do very-well with newer stuff with the right cart-stylus.

captouch
06-14-2013, 02:55 AM
No, the sound stops when the motor stops, even when the platter is still spinning.

It is pretty loud, but the video may make it seem louder than in real life. I was playing 2-3 LP's earlier today with no noise, then it started. Not the first time, but it kind of comes and goes. But in a given session, once it comes, it seems to stay until I give the player a break.

captouch
06-17-2013, 11:45 PM
Lubed the motor today - went well, other than bending the tips on the snap ring pliers trying to get the motor apart. It's okay though, it came with 4 tips and was only $14 or so.

Also lightly sanded the idler rubber and it seems to hold speed slightly better. Added some Dynamat to the inner sides of the plinth as well while I had it apart.

All seems good for now. Thanks everyone! :banana:

stereofisher
06-18-2013, 09:49 PM
Glad you got your 1229 working. Seth's been working on these awhile. Have a 1229 in my Dual fleet. It's very listenable through my Marantz 4270. It should run a long time now

Eric