Okay, now I'm officially in it. :)

I got dad's old Sansui 2000 and am in the process of restoring her to glory; have replaced some of the bulbs and am in the process of getting others, but the less pleasant bit is the static I'm hearing. I've doused the pots (twice!) with Deoxit and exercised the knobs, and that may have helped a little, but even with the volume on the minimal setting, I'm consistently getting random pulses of static. They don't seem to change in volume as the volume knob is increased, as they're less noticable when overwhelmed by music, but I could be wrong on that.

The 2000X is in similar straits, though I haven't hit her with Deoxit yet, so she might be better off. The speaker select knob was bent to hell (about 45 degrees off axis), but a pair of pliers salvaged the situation. She's just got a nasty loose tuner string; may have to bend the rearmost pulley clamp a little in order to tighten it up a bit. I already Deoxed the pulleys to no avail, but when I push back on the rear clamp manually, the pointer slides fine. But again with the random static at "0" volume.

It's not the speakers, as I've tried with several different sets, all of which work fine with other receivers. Any ideas on what to check? I have the service manual for the 2000, which had its bias corrected to 25mA the other night, so I can probably troubleshoot it if I can be helped on what to look for.

Any thoughts?

Time to re-cap these babies! I've worked on a few 2000 series and they all have the same problem of dried up caps, especially on the driver boards and the large PS caps.

They can get leaky and cause the 'static' you hear. The first thing I would do is re-cap the driver boards, then the PS caps. If that still doesn't improve things the tone board is next in line.

Give these things new caps makes them really sing better than they were new. The only thing that's gonna cost you on these units is the power supply caps. Everything all the other caps will probably not run you more than 40 dollars per receiver in total.

Well worth it I might ad :D

Well, since I've gotta order some fuse-type lamps from partsexpress anyway, I might as well throw in some new caps as well. Recommendations for a brand which sound decent but are not too pricey?

Though my soldering's a bit rusty, thankfully I'll get to practice this weekend on recapping my SP-2000s. Can't believe how huge those Daytons are! :eek: Where the hell am I gonna put em? :D

Almost any name brans caps are fine. Anything will be better than the originals, even if they were new I typically use Xicon or Nichicon caps. THey are inexpensive and widely available. You'll need to desolder the leads from the driver boards and pull them out to re-cap.

Just remember to take good pictures and or mark where the wires go!

...god I love modular systems: pull the card, repair, and re-insert. Doesn't get better than that.

What I love it being able to just buy these parts off the shelf instead of trying to find some obscure IC from the mid-1980s. My dying Kenwood is almost useless for that reason. And lets not even talk about my crappy Sony DE915....

Course, I haven't gotten into a QRX-x001 yet, so I'm still in HappyWorldLand as far as obtaining components goes. :D

The 8001/9001 are not for the faint of heart or early beginning repairmen. Personally restoring one, I know that these are a nightmare to repair and are extreamly complicated. QuadBob is a member here who restores the x001 quads all day long. I give props to him for being able to keep his sanity and restore these units to beautiful condition.

"I already Deoxed the pulleys to no avail" Maybe the cord is now slipping due to the "Superior Cleaner, Enhancer and LUBRICANT for Metal Electrical Connections" (printed on Deoxit can). Some 91% Isopropyl Alcohol should remove the "Lubricant", followed by treating the cord with some bee's wax (toilet sealing ring-Home Depot). The big Daytons can be mounted (Super glue gel or Acid-free/GE II silicone sealer/adhesive or cable ties) on some auxilary boards (Scant Poplar-Home Depot) and "Pig-Tailed" to the original location. Secure the "Aux-Boards" to the OEM X/O board. Keep the "Tails" as short as possible...

Archibael - I just finished working on my 2000X last week. Did the same basic things you did - deoxit the pots, cleaned the inside, replaced all 10 bulbs. I still have a channel out, and I'm not experienced enought to go beyond this. I'll have it repaired and restored at some point. I do have the service manual (owners manual too) for the 2000X though, in case you have questions. Just shoot me a PM if you do.

JD

That's not a bad guess, rek, but I'm not that stupid. Or maybe I am, but in this case, I'd put no Deoxit on the unit anywhere, and it was slipping. I read on a search of this forum that sometimes this was a problem with gunk on the axles, so I carefully dabbed some Deoxit on the pulleys and that didn't improve matters. It's okay; bending the rearmost mount slightly worked fine, and the tuner is now back in action! I even did it with my kids and wife watching over my shouder, which is usually a guarantee that I will fail miserably and often hilariously.

Thanks, JD. I'm pretty sure I know which is the driver board, and I'll just replace the electrolytics there, but if there are further problems, I'll be giving you a ring. :) I cleaned the knobs and face, and she sure looks pretty. I promised her to of my daughters when she's done.

As for the Dayton's, rek... Now you're getting back into speakers. :) Recapped one crossover completely, and was somehow able to fit them all on, though I had to stack them and superglue. Still sounds a bit odd, and I've narrowed it down to one tweeter seeming to be dead. I'll ohm it out today, could just be a connection or a bad solder joint in the crossover. Or else I'll have to buy a new one. :shrug:

The other speaker which I haven't recapped yet is missing the supertweeter, but when I clamped a 0.47uF Dayton across the terminals, it came on, so that's an obvious capacitor problem. :thmbsp:

The process continues. I'm saving the 5000X for when I have more time; that thing's got serious issues (FM tuner seems dead, but I get a smidge of music after the power button is pressed but before the units is completely powered down). :scratch2:

The G-5500 seems to be working flawlessly, so far, and it's currently my reference system. :yes:

Hey Archibael, I wasn't trying to imply "Stupid" here. I guess I'm "Stupid" for thinking "I already Deoxed the pulleys to no avail" meant you got some on the cord. Good that you fixed it!

No, rek, you've been a huge help-- hell, even just looking at the archives of your posts has been critical to my speaker efforts! I didn't take offense, and I'm sorry if it looked defensive. Its my way. :D

BTW, these old capacitors from the driver stages had, what 20% tolerance? I can safely replace them up or down a bit, right (as long as I get the voltages right)? The manual specifies 5uF, 50uF, and some other number I'm forgetting, but they're all nonstandard, and in catalogs I'm only finding 47uF, 4.7uF, etc. All of which are within 20% of the nominal value, but I'm just checking in case there's anything sensitive in the driver stage I should be aware of. I could get tighter tolerance caps if required...

You guys are so cool to walk newbies like me through this. Thanks soooo much.