Reel to Reels seem to be showing up here lately. The latest is a very large TEAC X-1000R. This bad boy is big. Ten and half inch reel to reels. Our appliance installer found it today free. Glad he wants to keep her. I have too much stuff and with rents getting out of hand here in SE New York I have to look at different quarters. Will keep a 6010 Vintage si sending me and a 1230. I get to play with the 1000. Going to be tough going down to one system from three :tears:

Anyone familiar with these beasts? Have not opened her up yet. Are these direct drive on the reel motors with a belt on the center motor? Seems that way. Goes into FF and RR. The casptans dont engage but that could be the usual TEAC problem. There are two tape guides that appear to be missing screws that hold them on. One is to the left of where the tape goes into the heads and the other is where the tape exits. Looks like a belt is out on the center motor. Will see when I get inside. Another issue seems to be the button for record is flashing when it on. Any clues will be appreciated Before pics posted. Any idea what size screw I need to hold the guide on.

Thanks Eric :music:

So a new project to fix Eric ?
Yes, it has 3 motors and capstan should turn when the tension arms are halfway lifted, but take that tape off of the faceplate.
You need M-2 metric nut for holding the tension-roller in place.
If this machine it's a keeper, try find the correct washer + original washer for each roller. X-2000 R and X-10 uses the same cap Eric.
About the blinking record light, press RECORD MODE ON/OFF and see what happens. :)

Taking it apart:
Start with the wood-cabinet, 3 screws on each side and 2 long ones located on each L + R plastic leg.
Slide carefully out the deck from the cabinet.
Now you have a plastic cabinet left to take off, each side has a phillips screw to hold it in place.
Take those out with the deck standing up and carefully slide out the cabinet + power-cord thru the plastic opening on the back. :)

Now you probably get scared when looking what's inside Eric. :confused:
The fun begins:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange001.jpg

Don't worry about the large pc-board on the upper section, leave that alone.
Start cutting the 3 tie-strap holding the wires in the right place:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange005.jpg

Now the whole assembly plate has 6 screws holding it:
See red marks:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange002.jpg

And another on the right side attached to a bracket:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange004.jpg

Carefully lower the whole plate down in a angle between the bottom section and upper pc-board and unplug the plastic connection plug for capstan-motor supply board:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange009.jpg

Now the belt can be reached that probably is stretched or broken:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange010.jpg

Both fly-wheels need to be taken off to reach the linkage controlling pinch-roller engagement that usually is gummed up and doesn't move properly when pressing play-mode.

Take the head-cover off the front and you find a black plastic washer on the shaft on each capstan-arm, pry carefully off this washer and slide the Left fly-wheel out from the back at the same time, don't loose that washer now.
See red arrow:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange012.jpg

Here is the L-flywheel with plastic washer next to it + old gummy belt.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange014.jpg

And how it looks inside:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange013.jpg

Do the same thing with the R-fly-wheel and carefully lift it out from the base:
Don't mix them up now, they are different making the belt change location on the fly-wheels when auto-reverse in engaged.
This is why it's very important to buy the correct drive-belt, wrong belt will create problems with tape-slack, no auto-reverse function or burned up capstan-motor. Spend $ 15.00 for a original belt from Teac Eric. :yes:

Here are both fly-wheels off:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange015.jpg

Now to the linkage controlling the pinch-rollers, see the bracket in the center, oil at the pivot-points with gun-oil or sewing machine oil.
No WD-40. :no:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange017.jpg

Just a couple of drops on each point and lift the pinch-roller shafts from the front until they fall down without any resistance.
This can take a little time but be patient, 10-15 minutes and they will work like new again.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange016.jpg

When linkage is working 100 % start cleaning following with head-cleaner:
Each surface on the fly-wheels, old belt-residue get stuck and will create problems later if not cleaned properly.
Wipe everything dry afterwards with a cotton-towl.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange019.jpg

Same with the capstan-motor pulley: :yes:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange025.jpg

See how much black crud came of this pulley:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange028.jpg

When both fly-wheels and capstan motor pulley is clean, its time to mount the fly-wheels back on.
Start with the R-one (backside) and carefully slide the shaft in thru the hole:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange020.jpg

Before it's totally at the right position, you must slide the plastic washer back on, otherwise the whole headstack need to be removed, and we don't want that part. :no:

See the angle here Eric:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange022.jpg

Slide the washer on all the way, and that will hold the fly-wheel in position until the assembly bracket is back on.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange023.jpg

Do the same thing with the L-fly-wheel and now slide the new drive-belt on both fly-wheels, position doesn't matter.
In this picture is how the capstan-motor pulley is located on the drive-belt.
Have seen several decks with wrong belt and pulley on top instead, it goes from the bottom and up. :)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange030.jpg

Before you mount the assembly plate back on, clean the old grease off each fly-wheel center shaft, and put a small amount of Lube-Gel on the steel-ball.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange024.jpg

Attach the plastic connector back on the capstan-motor and slide the whole assemby-plate back in the same way it came out. Be careful so now wires are between and in the fly-wheels.
You need a long screw-driver or hook to lift up the drive-belt on to the pulley at the same time you guiding the plate back.
Also be sure the Timer function plate goes in the slot on top of the assembly plate.
This can be little tricky but have patience:

See here:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange040.jpg

Attach the lower center screw on the plate first, but don't tighten it until all the other 5 is attached.
When it's all back in place, spin one fly-wheel both directions with your finger so the belt guide itself, and you can check how the belt changes position on both fly-wheels.

Attach new tie-straps on the right side + check so no wires are close to the fly-wheels.

Check the timer buttons on the front so they function properly.

Mount the pinch-rollers back on and put one small drop of gun-oil on each shaft, be sure you have those small black washers on each side of the pinch-roller.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange033.jpg

Washer:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange034.jpg

Covers back on the pinch-rollers, and check the movement up and down, should be smooth on both L + R. :yes:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange035.jpg

Time to test with tape and power on:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange.jpg

Press Play in both directions and check the belt from the back and see how it behave.
Try this several times before you assembly the plastic cabinet and wood-cabinet.

Good Luck Eric. :thmbsp:
I hope it goes well with the surgery.

OUTSTANDING!

A great "how to" Rolf. Thanks for taking the time and sharing your knowledge and pics.

This would be a good sticky.

Terry

Thanks Terry, hope it helps. :nerd:

Same for an X-20R????

Yes it is OMI, just less wires in the way to take the assembly plate off. :)

Great post Vintage! :thmbsp: Thanks!

You welcome Gold Ear :)

I will get to her on Thurs evening. Looks like a belt issue. Got FF and REW. Will take her apart and take a look. Its unlike any TEAC I have worked on before.

Two things I have to look at. Belt and the pinch rollers moving into play. Thanks for the neat post Rolf. The deck is dirty but a keeper. I will follow your steps to the "T" and will goto TEAC to get a belt.

Eric :music:

Great Eric, keep us posted how the surgery goes.
Check your PM, I need your address for the Teac. :)

Wow, that was one of the best "how-to" pictorials I have ever seen. Kudos to you sir Rolf. :thmbsp:

Thanks Ward. :beerchug:

Rolf,

Would this procedure apply to the X2000R as well?

Yes, they both have the same set-up with transport section. :)

You ware the man Rolf!!!!!!

Hell...I thought the tape went UNDER the sensing pin on the guide....all this time I put my sensing tape on the inside of the tape to make contact!....

Sorry Gary, that's wrong. :no:
Eric, did you start the surgery yet ?

Now That was different Rolf!!!!... :thmbsp:

Cool Rolf, what is the music playing in the video?

BTW, great tutorial!

Thanks guys, the music is Stanley Black " The All Time Top Tangos music from Lecuona" :music:
http://www.cduniverse.com/productinfo.asp?pid=6767714&style=music&cart=318648117

Hello Vintage TX, congratulations for this terrific post! As the proud owner of a Teac X2000rbl bought new almost 20 years ago,

http://www.stefanopasini.it/TEAC%20X2000Rbl.htm ,
I really appreciate the pictures and detailed 'how-to' instructions on the dismantling of this very intricate machine. :tresbon:

Thank you,

Stefano

Got a rainy May day here in the Northeast (5-14-06) and started working on the Teac that been sitting on the diningroom table for the last two months. No time :no: Dont want to move it to my new home. Got to get it back to togather and out of here.

Rolf pictoral is terrific. I got the wood case off and the plastic interior one too. Got the back off and the pulled off the cover for the dual capstans. Removed the capstains and the belt had fallen off. Rolf suggested I oil the arms that raise the capstans. They were very dry and did not up to engage the pinch rollers. I oiled the pivots. This deck is different than earlier Teacs. The pivots are behind the tape heads and on the back as shown in Rolf's pics. Like he said you need to oil them and work the arms up and down until they drop by themselves. "Good as new" as Rolf said.

This is where I stopped today. I have some pics showing where the pivots are behind the heads. This looks like a very nice deck. Hope I can get her back togather. Rolfs "how to" is been on the money :thmbsp: Eric :music:

Were you able to get this working again Eric ?

Rolf,

This is my first post on this forum. A group of us went to lunch last Friday and I stopped by the pawn shop a couple of doors down.

Sitting on the bottom shelf in a corner of their stereo area was an X-1000R with a tag reading "$60.00 AS IS". I asked the owner and he said it wouldn't play and he couldn't get anybody to look at it. I kneeled down and powered it up. FF and FR worked fine, but hit play and you got the reaction of which all of you are familiar.

I'm not familiar with this deck. I've been cruising ebay for an RT-707, but couldn't find one at the right price or condition. I left the pawn shop after buying a Sony direct drive turntable with a broken arm for $15. It will become part of a DIY record cleaner.

Saturday morning I Googled to find out more about that forelorn deck at the pawn shop. I found out it had a common problem which can be easily fixed by someone with a little electronics background like me. I've built some Heathkits, including a 30 year old receiver that's still going fine.

This is one of the threads I found and the main reason I went back Monday. I offered him $50.00, which he accepted. Last night I plugged it in and the electronics seem fine. The pots aren't scratchy and there's no noise in the circuitry. I took off the head cover and the heads look fine and none of the adjusting screw paint has been disturbed. I cleaned the heads and rollers and there was very little residue. I think you can look around and get a feel for whether a deck is clean from being cleaned or clean from little use. This deck definately looks clean from little use. It's in great condition, the front is pristine except for one very minor corner ding. The back is not as pretty, since someone scratched out an SS number and name.

I popped off the back and the inside is very clean outside of a little dust on the fuse board and transformer. I reached under to check the belt and came back with a gooey chunk the size of a peanut. When I break it down I'll have some cleaning to do. Of course, the roller bracket is gummy and you have to persuade it to go up and down.

I called TEAC and ordered a new belt and I've bought the service manual. I can't wait until I can get this bad boy running.

I started out with RR with a Voice of Music deck I got when I was 15. The next year I stepped up to a Viking deck which I bought second hand for $150.00. I still have it, although its caps are shot and I'm not sure about the tubes. I've always wanted a 10 1/2" deck and something to use to copy my tapes to digital. I've got a couple of live tapes of Rufus Thomas and Billy Joe Royal. I've also got about 10 reels of air checks of Dr. Demento recorded when he had a local show on KMET.

Thanks again for this great thread! I'll report my restoration as soon as the belts arrive.

Doug

Check over Rolfs post. I just finished you one for a friend, sorry I had to give it back. Follow Rolfs post carefully. I did and its right on the money!!!! Once back togather it played great. Pay attention to the capstains. Mine were frozen and I oiled them and worked them loose as explain by Rolf. Have fun with her. She is one sweet deck. The case goes for $200 on Ebay. Any ??? post me....Enjoy!!!! :music: Eric

Hello,

I am a newb to the forum and this is my first post of, hopefully, many. I found this forum when doing a search for information on the X-1000R I received from my stepfather in return for selling some items on eBay for him. It had the very problem that was described at the start of the thread. I say it 'had' the pinch roller problem because I just finished following the how-to portion of this thread. The PR mechanism now moves freely and I can't wait to fire it up.

Thanks for taking the time to detail this process with photos Rolf. It has been greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bobby

Proud owner of a TEAC X-1000R RTR, Sony TC-228 8 Track "Tapecorder" and a Pioneer QX-646 quad receiver.

does anyone know where online i can buy a belt for this reel to reel. i heard you can order it from TEAC, but I searched their website for hours and couldnt find it. any direction would be great! i cant wait to start opperating on my TEAC x-1000R!

I emailed TEAC with the model number on the 1000. They will send you the part number and the price. Its under $20. a little involved to put on but not terrible. Eric :music:

O.K. Like eveyone else, I have to agree with the outstanding detail in this post. My deck was running to the point that it was unusable( extremely slow) I folowed this thread to the letter, cleaning and lubing everything as was stated. Powered it up and watched as the belt changed as I changed direction...all seemed good so , I threw a tape on it and it "falls off" the heads. It seems that the "backside reel" is going too fast. This happens on both speeds, both directions...what gives? Did I mess something up ?

Stepman,
I am new to this forum as you can see since this is my first post but try not to hold it against me! I have been learning as I go with an X-1000R deck I bought on ebay a few months ago. I wish I had found Rolf's excellent write up before I had to figure out the belt change procedure on my own, but at least I know now that I did everything right.

My first guess on your problem would be the capstans got reversed when you put them back in. Check Rolf's details on the capstans especially the pictures (L vs R) and you will see the rib on each capstan flywheel is in a different location front to back. I also learned the hard way during my belt replacement that a non-Teac belt may not work properly. I bought one on ebay that was much thicker (which I thought was a good thing) and stiffer but it would not shift direction completely. The deck would play in one direction but the tape would progressively droop in the other direction just as you described. Moving the belt position manually would reverse the direction that drooped so I ordered a Teac belt which fixed the problem. So, my advice would be to double check the capstans per Rolf's instructions, make sure everything is clean and use a genuine Teac belt. I would also check the capstan end play, front to back to make sure it's not too sloppy and clean/replace and lube the pinch rollers. Beyond those suggestions I am out of ideas. Good luck with it though. Fun stuff huh!

Great "How To."
More importantly, has anyone heard from Rolf? I hope he's well.

Ron

Once again I am reminded what a great resource places like Audio Karma and the Internet can be for us...

Case in point, for over a year I have been worrying about replacing the belt on my Teac X-700R..it had the typical sticky, stretched situation that makes the deck unusable....I had my A-2300SX in place of the X-700R, but never really cared for its' sound as much as the 700....

So, yesterday was the Bottlehead meeting at Wardsweb's house and towards the end of the afternoon, we got to talking...well, as many of you know, Luther is a gracious and generous host...I walked away with a new Teac X-series drive belt...I was fully expecting to order one soon....but Luther saved me from that! Thanks, Luther!

Anyhow, it would be a diservice NOT to use the belt as soon as possible, so this afternoon I dug into the 700....this thread on the 1000 was my inspiration and my guide...I didn't have any of the other problems that mandate taking out the flywheels, etc, all my mechanisms work just fine, so, it only took me about 30 minutes from start to finish....

I always have a lot of trepidations whenever I dig into one of my favorite pieces of gear (and I have the blowed up remains of many a project from over the past forty+ years of messing with computers, Ham Radio, and Audio to attest to that!!!) but, using this guide, my 700 worked right from the very first moment I reassembled it.

Thanks, Vintage for "Showin' me da lite!"
:ntwrthy:

Rick

Would like to thank this forum and "Rolf", (Vintage TX) in particular for the excellent instructions on how to replace the capstan drive belt. I obtained the belt from Teac (didn't even know the belt was still available), a service manual off e-bay, and an owner's manual from Teac. Cleaned and oiled the unit as instructed. Two weeks ago, when I first tried to get it up and running, I really thought it was good for nothing more than a boat anchor. I was so wrong. I am now sitting in my new media room listening to old, old, Roy Orbison tapes on the RTR. Haven't heard these tapes in over 20 to 30 years. Any other great tips on how to keep these baby's operating would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,
Bill

The 1000 is a really nice deck. You saw the post for the one I fixed up for a friend. He really likes it. Gave me a second one to fix up. I may try and keep it. This one is a TEAC 3340. Really sweat. He wants to sell it and it may stay here. Still owes me for the work done on the X-1000. Dont really have room for it but its a special deck. My friend got both free!!!

Ran three tapes on her this afternoon. They are a real smooth machines. Great sound. Boston, Elton John, and Nitty Gritty Dirt Band all sounded great this afternoon while I was fixing up a GE P780 AM portable radio. Got it for parts and it was fixable.

Its great to have a bench and a shop to work on this stuff. Had a fun day off. Enjoy your deck. Rolf was a great help to me on the 1000 and he gave me a hand with the 3340 too. Great guy! He is on the mend.

Eric:music:

Hey, when did you see Rolf. Or speak to him.....I've been looking for him for a long time.....Is he OK..... - Joe :banana: :banana: :banana: :thmbsp:

Rolf is fine and on the mend. I was very glad to hear this. He is way behind on his work and is playing catch up. My 3340 is running well. It was missing the round plug and would not go into play,rewind or FF. How I could miss this :screwy: is beyond me. Duh? Stole one off a 6010 Rolf sent me. Anyone got a plug for a TEAC 3340,2300, or 3300? Need to find one.

Rolf's mailbox is full and he is busy getting stuff fixed and answering mail. :tresbon:

Eric:D

:banana: Hi guys, feels good to be here again.
Eric, were you able to track down a dummy-plug or ?

Welcome back Rolf! We've missed you!

Thank you GoldEar, browsing around here..missed a bunch of good stuff.
So how have you been, still collecting Sony's or were you able to track down a Tascam 44 yet ?

Thank you GoldEar, browsing around here..missed a bunch of good stuff.
So how have you been, still collecting Sony's or were you able to track down a Tascam 44 yet ?
I can't locate a 44 for a good price. If I find one, I would probably have to buy it. I've been trying not to add to my collection of R2Rs recently. Although haven't been doing a very good job of this considering that I couldn't pass up a deal on an X-1000R, and a 4 channel Otari 50-50 in good condition.

X-1000 R is a good pick and Otari MX-5050 too.
I found a 44 locally here but it's been flooded..I passed..:no:
Trying to lower my inventory this summer, too many decks and need more space.

X-1000 R is a good pick and Otari MX-5050 too.
I found a 44 locally here but it's been flooded..I passed..:no:
Trying to lower my inventory this summer, too many decks and need more space.
So... Are you planning to have a sale on 44s??? :D

:banana: Hi guys, feels good to be here again.
Eric, were you able to track down a dummy-plug or ?

Yeah sort of. Won a TEAC 2300 for $12. Sent the guy a check, hasnt been cashed and no deck:no: Will check my bank account and see if the check cleared. Will drop him a line. Still using the one out of the 6010 you sent me. Got a 2nd 3340S to play with when time permits. Both owners want to sell. Market is a little soft right now...Great to hear from you Rolf. Hope youre felling well.

Eric:music:

Goldear, let me see what I have left here, do you want a project or serviced and ready ?

Hi Eric:thmbsp:
I have a friend up in California who made some really nice dummy-plug, let me call him and see if there is any left.
So you got (2) 3340's now ?

Goldear, let me see what I have left here, do you want a project or serviced and ready ?

That depends on how just how big of a project were talking... Normally I service all of my own equipment. Lets take this discussion ofline. PMing.

Check your inbox:thmbsp:

This was a great post, and just what I needed. I just aquired an X-1000R. The belt was shot, and it looked like someone had attempted to work on it and hadn't gotten things back together correctly. (I'll bet it sat in that condition for a big portion of it's life, the heads look brand new).

Anyway, I ordered a new belt and pinch rollers from Teac. However, after putting it all back together it still doesn't work quite right. When playing forward a small amount of slack forms in the tape between the pinch rollers. Playing in the reverse direction seems fine.

I can see the belt moving when switching directions, but I'm wondering if it isn't tracking on the correct portion of the flywheels. Where exactly is it supposed to run?

Also, I notice in the Tec service manual that there is supposed to be 1.2mm of washers under one of the motor mounts and 0.5mm under the top one. This seems to contradict everything I've read in this post and others. My machine only had the single 1.2mm of washers under the one mount.

I'm at a bit of a loss in trying to figure out what to do here.

Any pointers will be appreciated,

Roy

I have seen posts where a non TEAC belt was used and caused the problem you are having. For some reason it happens. The cure is a TEAC factory belts.

Eric:music:

# Check the R-tension-roller so it's spinning smooth, any crud or dirt on the roller or axel can create tape-slack.

# Switch the pinch-rollers around L-side to R-side, and see what happens.

Let us know what you find after this:thmbsp:

Forgot about the washer..do a check on the bottom pc-board if maybe the missing washer is down there.
Some of the earlier models had only one washer..the newer versions has 2.:yes:

Forgot about the washer..do a check on the bottom pc-board if maybe the missing washer is down there.
Some of the earlier models had only one washer..the newer versions has 2.

Yeah, mine has two (according to my service manual of 0.8mm and 0.5mm thickness). But my manual also shows a 0.5mm one on the top motor mount screw as well. But this one is not actually on the machine.

I'll try another new belt and new pinch rollers and see what that does.

How much does the belt move though? Does it go all the way from the front edge of the flywheel to the back (and vice versa) when changing? Mine only shifts by about half that much.

Thanks for all the help and I'll keep you informed of my progress. It's turning into a fun project cleaning this deck up.

Roy

hi all, i'm a newbie here and would appreciate all the help i can get.
I purchase my teac x1000r in 19981 while station in Germany.
This baby has been real nice to me,hours of none stop music with sertain songs cued to replay without having have to get up and change record or rewind tapes, what a great feature, a very reliable girl up to 2004
I powered up, hit play and it started but was playing sloww.
while it was playing I lifted the tape lifter just a little and then she played normal so I wedged the lever with a piece of paper when i listen to her.

shortly after that i had to start a second story addition to my house.
Well I had not touch her since 2004 until 2 weeks ago my 10 yr. grand-daughter and 6 yr. old grand-son asked me what kind of music I grew up with.

I went and got her from the garage where she was boxed up, turned her on and lifted the tape lifter as usual and heard a little click.

I guess I lifted it too hard. I then heard the running real loud so I opened it up to take a look in the back.

I lifted the lifter up and down several times while looking in the back checking out the mechanism,I could see how the lifters assembly in the back work as the center bracket
is being pushed up by a metal linkage attached to the tape lifter which was hard to go up .

I searched all over to look and asked for help but no luck so I was ready to give up yjen I thought about looking on ebay to see if I could find a cheap x1000r to maybe salvage one or the other.

What a shock I got when I saw the price these babies were going for. Man! I said out loud. I could not beleive as I saw a 81 teac x1000rrbl sold for almost $1500.00.

well, I found this forum and behold I came accross Vintage TX thread with the beautiful picture of my baby in a state of undress.
Ithen looked at machine and notice that the the belt on mine was missing. (Bamm) I ordered a belt for $13.00 from teac in La. 6 hrs. south of where I'm at.
I cleaned everything replaced the belt and started her up, everything looked and sound real good mechanically.

Ok, here is the big problem, I put on my 10.5 " reel with my classical oldies from the 50's and 60's earth angels and all that good stuff but the problem is the songs sound like a 45 record playing at 78 speed, or a cassette tape being recorded in fast speed.

Will someone please tell me they understand my problem and help me to get her up and running again?

All help is deeply appreciated!!!

thanks hadabogi1

Thanks for a great story.:thmbsp:
About the speed problem, did you check the linkage for the two pinch-rollers when engaging play ?
(if the linkage is not lifting the pinch-rollers properly the speed will be faster.
# Does the pitch-control slow the speed down ?
# Are the pinch-rollers hard or glazed ?

The linkage you mentioned runs all the way up to the top of the face plate. ( This is the linkage that is causing the problem. You need to clean and oil it. refer to Vintage Tx post and lube the flat rod that runs up from the capstan assy. It had old dries grease nardening and preventing the pinch rollers from applying enough pressure to the tape to set the speed. - Joe:music:

Hi again, Thanks to you both for your quick responses.

I will check it out and report my findings.

many thanks , I really appreciate your help.

hadabogi1

yes, wordman001 I did clean that flat rod. thanks

Vintage TX,
1. yes the linkage seems to lifting the pinch roller ok.

2. no, thepitch-control does not change the speed.

3. no, the pinch are hard I had applied some rejuvinating cleaning liquid earlier.

I did notice 1 thing though that is while the tape was playing I lifted the tape lifter while looking in the back and it did not do anything.

thanks

Lube it with light oil, 3-1 should do... :music: :music: :music:

will do,

thanks pal

So you can lift up the pinch-rollers very easy with your fingers and they fall down directly again without any resistance ?

The pitch-control should make a difference on playmode, try 3-3/4 speed and engage the pitch-control >> turn it all the way to the left side and check if the speed slows down.

Hard pinch-rollers on this model usually make the tape wander all over..did you try auto-reverse and same result there with high speed ?

hi pal, yes the pinchers falls freely.

the pitch controls do absolutely nothing.

I can squeese the rubbers on the pinch rollers but then again I do not know exactly how soft they should be.

I don't have any foil right now so I couldn't check the auto reverse.

The pinch-rollers should be kind of soft on this model.
But the pitch-control should make a difference.
Take a picture with the headcover off and in playmode, let us see what it does.:scratch2:
You can reverse the side just pressing < on the transport section, that will play side B without sensing foil, check and see what speed problem it has.

Hi All,

Brand new here as of today, and this thread couldn't be more appropriate as I just bought an X-1000R off EBay this morning, and was worrying exactly about things such as service costs for belts and rollers when they will be needed.

Kudos to Vintage for the wonderfully detailed belt procedure; this tells me that I can at least replace that by myself. But I have a question:

Does it make sense to buy new belts and pinch rollers in advance, to keep for that rainy day, or is it counterproductive in terms of them aging by just lying there. This leads to: if I do buy, is there a good procedure for storing them and keeping them fresh?

I have Caig rubber conditioner/cleaner. Would a little application of this combined with storage of the parts in a ziploc with silicone gel packs do the trick?

Any advice is welcomed.

And since this is the Turntable thread as well, proud owner (into the 3rd decade) of a Luxman 131 direct-drive with a Sumiko arm and Grado cartridge :banana:

I look forward to reading and participating here,

Best,
C.

The pinch-rollers should be kind of soft on this model.
But the pitch-control should make a difference.
Take a picture with the headcover off and in playmode, let us see what it does.:scratch2:
You can reverse the side just pressing < on the transport section, that will play side B without sensing foil, check and see what speed problem it has.

hello, I came across some info in a thread last night where you were to as Rolf. I would like to know exactly how you would prefer to be addressed. (thanks)

Ok back to work, I checked the pitch-control again and yes it did slow the tape down a bit but still too fast.

yes, it will reverse in both direction while in play mode.

If the pinch rollers are as soft as you make it seems to be by touch, then I would consider mine hard.

Ok!!!!! would you sugest at this time it would be wise to replace these pinch rollers as the first approach to try and resolve this running away problem?

Please understand that I'm here to abide by your full advice and instructions for I respect your knowledge and the experience you have.

:banana: Ok Boss, ( laugh) lets do it, I looked over this babe real close last night and I believe I can strip her, completely clean her and restore her while awaiting any parts you may recommend that would to be replaced.

thanks for time and help.

hadabogi1:

by the way hadabogi is grampa in korean, the #1 is there bacause my 2 little grand kids said that I'm the best.
( laugh)

http://audiokarma.org/forums/image.php?u=321&dateline=1099202289

I just noticed your avatar. That's my primary for 2 channel...and the 8 Track can't be beat.

hadabogi1,

If the pitch-control works and reverse play act the same as forward play..the pinch-roller linkage is not fully functional..
Take the head-cover off and put a tape on the deck, press play and take a close up picture of the head-stack and pinch-rollers engaged please.
With a angle showing the capstan axel's on both side.

Cosmic,
Welcome to AK and thanks for your comment.:thmbsp:
I would buy 2 pinch-roller and 2 drive-belts for the future, use a ziplock bag with gelpack inside, nothing else.
A new roller is $ 42.00 each but worth it for the long run if you plan to keep theTeac.:yes:

Dog of Doom,

Yes that's correct model, I tried upload a new avatar with spinning reels, but no luck with a gif-file.
Made this one:
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p183/Texas59/1175.gif

Vintage Tex, This is just what the doctor ordered. This is an awesome thread and the fever and inspiration to give a little love to my RTR's is alive and well. Thank you for taking the time to write and adding pictures gives us a better insight. I look forward to hearing more...Paul


Owner of Teac X-1000R w/ DBX. Teac A-7010, and Akai 747 w/DBX

Thank's Paul, nice collection you have there:thmbsp:
When things slow down a little I will post a new X-1000 R project that's sitting here waiting.

hi Vintage Tx,

I sorry but I won't be able to post any pictures.

I don't know how nor do I have the equiptment it take to do it.

I know you are busy and sincerely tried to help with the little info you got.

My sincere apology for that but many thanks for to you.
please keep up the good work you are doing?

thanks, hadabogi1

Sorry to hear that, would made things easier to trouble shoot.
Hope you can figure it out.:yes:

Sorry to hear that, would made things easier to trouble shoot.
Hope you can figure it out.:yes:


hi again Vintage Tx, well my friend,I stripped her down completed naked, pc boards and all.

I washed and cleaned pc boards, all electrical components,cleaned and lube\oil all mechanical moving parts.

My baby is clean.
I assembled her back together, turned her on but still the same problem, even though I had installed new belts,pinch rollers and adjusted the speed on the pc board.

After I double check everything I turned her on again and found that the speed s/w is not functioning properly.

Itook her apart again, got another s/w assembled her hit play and their she goes, real quiet, smooth, and sounding like it just she did when I first took her out of the box in Germany 1981.:banana: :banana: :banana: :music: :music: :music: :D :D

So thats when they were built. The one I fixed up sounded great. Nice jiob.Eric:music:

So thats when they were built. The one I fixed up sounded great. Nice jiob.Eric:music:



Thanks pal,but if I had not come across this forum, saw the beautiful post by Vintage showing the belt replacement and all helping suggestion from those that answered my call for help,I never would would have known where to start.
Many thanks to all.
This was my first time but sure won't be the last,I'll be in there taking much better care of my babe,with regular chech-up and cleaning.
I'll try my best to leave this babe to my grand-son who is now 6 yrs. old and stood beside me all the way, watching me taking my girl apart and cleaning her up.

Yes, guy's he did asked me when he saw all those pieces scattered all over, " grampa are you sure you are going to put it back together and make it work again? (laugh) real funny, but I did it and now he boast that his grampa can fix anything.
Thanks again to all.

hadabogi1

Great job Hadabogi, so the speed-switch selector was bad or the pitch-control ?
Remember it was going too fast and the pitch-control slowed it down.
Lately I have going thru my inventory and thought a long time before doing this, parting out a black X-1000 R. :nono:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0026.jpg

:scratch2: But this particular deck had some severe problems, logic board, record function was out on L channel, DBX did not work correctly, poor erase function, R-reel motor weak and rust on transport control panel so decided too make this a parts donor for some others I have here.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0027.jpg

So after a day in the shop pulling my hair and checked all the others with missing or broken parts this was the result:
# Power-supply board to another black X-1000 R.
# Reel-table went to my personal X-1000 R that was bent.
#Timer switch to a silver X-1000 R (broken in shipping)
# Head stack assembly as this parts deck had excellent heads. Will be mounted on a silver X-1000 R that has some wear.
# Small/Large Reel-switch was needed for another black X-1000 R
# Capstan-motor assembly will be used on a X-2000 R
# Black faceplate, head cover, knobs etc will be used on another silver X-1000 R I had for several years with damage on the corner and funky shine.
So a transformation is the plan.:yes:
# Output / Mic / Line control board will be used on the same damaged silver X-1000 R as it's broken off.

When I counted the decks here I found (3) black X-1000 R and (2) Silver X-1000 R all needed some small or bigger parts, so I am pretty satisfied even if I hated the idea to part out a Teac like this.
What do you think guys ?:scratch2:

Trouble with reverse play-mode..can be a challenge but in most cases they are related with drive-belt, bad pinch-rollers or this example when someone took the capstan-motor off and didn't pay attention to the spacer between motor and assembly-plate.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0006-6.jpg
Notice the spacer is missing and when you try reverse play the tape will
not play correctly because the belt can't change location between the two fly-wheels.:no:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0005-6.jpg

Some models have two spacers and early models one between the motor and mounting plate.
Look at the slightly tilted angle on the right motor.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0007-6.jpg

Then the most important issue is the correct drive-belt.
This deck had the wrong belt and not installed right.
Forward play was kind of working but not reverse mode and correct speed.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0008-5.jpg

Next important when trouble shooting both X-1000 R, X-2000 R and X-10 R models are the two pinch-rollers.
Glazed, cracked and worn rollers will not work correctly on reverse play-mode and even regular forward mode, tape slips off after a couple of seconds or wander across the heads back and fourth.
Terry Witt does excellent work with rebuilding old worn rollers, I replaced both pinch-rollers after the belt-replacement was done.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0010-5.jpg

Next step I suggest when the drive-belt is installed to check the pinch-roller pressure on reverse play.
Take the head-cover off and press reverse play, look closely how the tape react between the capstan axel and the R-pinch-roller.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0012-4.jpg

If the tape trying to start slipping off or wander in and out on the roller you need to adjust the pressure between solenoid-linkage for the pinch-roller assembly.
On the top between the reel-motors you find 2 holes with a nut on each one.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0011-3.jpg

Adjust the right one if the tape moves back and reverse playmode, turn the nut 3 times clockwise with a 9/32 socket, you can start turning less and check at the same time how the tape response during this adjustment.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0013-3.jpg

When the tape runs perfectly still on reverse play, stop the deck and test forward play.
If the tape trying to slip off to the inner side of the roller you have adjusted the pressure too tight, loosen the R-nut one turn and check again.:thmbsp:

Nice write up Rolf! I have an X-2000 and your writeups on this sticky were so valuable in helping me change the belt and pinch rollers on mine. I couldn't have done it without your guidance.:thmbsp:

I'd love to see you give a lesson in head adjustment for us novices:yes:

Thanks!

Carl

Thanks Carl, glad I was able to help you.:tresbon:

Missed this one. A really good read!! Eric:music:

Thanks Eric, almost done with all decks here now.:thmbsp:
One silver model with damaged faceplate were made into a "hybrid" last night.
I ended up with a silver head-cover instead for a black one as it is original, comments ?:scratch2:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0001-8.jpg

Also skipped the black VU-meters for white instead.
Easier for reading, but that maybe is the age, darn bifocus:D
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0003-7.jpg

One silver is missing in this picture but personally I prefer the black models.:yes:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0015-1.jpg

Thanks Eric, almost done with all decks here now.:thmbsp:
One silver model with damaged faceplate were made into a "hybrid" last night.
I ended up with a silver head-cover instead for a black one as it is original, comments ?:scratch2:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0001-8.jpg

Different like me. I like the looks of the head cover and the VU's. It was a fair trade. You got a lot of working TEAC's out of just one! How do you have Rolf?? Nice pics!

Eric:music:

I think it looks pretty cool! It seems tp "break up" the totally balck color of the unit. With silver or red reels, it would look awsome!

Carl

Thanks Eric and Carl, I really like it more now after a couple of days.
Have one more finished on the bench now. A silver one that needed a timer switch and headstack but found out there are 2 different ones on early and late model.
This has one tape-lifter and all the black ones has 2 with result headstack assembly between these are not the same...a tape guide is mounted where the small tape-lifter moves up and down on the early model.
Not mentioned in the service manual either..:no:
Eric, I got five complete now so im happy, it was like a puzzle before making a decision for parting out a X-1000, but now after it's all done I don't feel so bad.

Another "hybrid" completed that's been sitting here for a long time.
Teac X-10 R.
One reel-table was smashed off completly and damaged the R-reel-motor.:sigh:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/Reeltoreel004-1.jpg

So a used good one from a 32-2 B took care of that problem.
Then the tape was hanging down between the head-stack on playback in playmode..hmm.. so checked the drive-belt and the capstan-motor was installed wrong without the washer for tilting the motor.
Fixed that part and installed a new belt.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/X-10R.jpg

The output-knob was missing and these are big grey ones..didn't find a good replacement so used a silver set instead from X-1000 model.
Both tension damper strings for the tension arms were cut off and missing..
Installed a new pair and right washers between the cap/roller.

X-10 R are really white so why not give it some color with black VU-meters.:D

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/X-10R2.jpg

Back with the face-plate and fixed tension-arms.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/X-10R4.jpg

The left reel-motor was really slow on rewind, checked the voltage and correct 24 volt feed was OK, so took the motor apart...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0003-8.jpg

And found a worn out collector..no good..

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0002-6.jpg

Again I was lucky and had a good used motor in stock so 30 minutes later the motor was in place and now it spin as these do without any hesitation even with 10 inch reels.:thmbsp:

Final result with a few changes from original.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX-10R8.jpg

X-10 R doesn't have all the features as X-1000 or X-2000 R but still a very good machine with auto-reverse, DBX connection on the back if you crave
noise reduction.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX-10R9.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX-10R6.jpg

Finished !:banana:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX-10R5.jpg

What a beauty, I'm personally quite fond of that white look and your black VU meter mod is really cool. Makes me want to get my little X-3 back into working condition for a spare 7" unit.

I'm considering a mint X-2000 in black, $450CDN, not a scratch on it. Will happen this weekend if it does. The deck will join my 34B, 3300S-2T and Akai GX-630 as far as 10.5" decks go.

I'm considering a mint X-2000 in black, $450CDN, not a scratch on it. Will happen this weekend if it does. The deck will join my 34B, 3300S-2T and Akai GX-630 as far as 10.5" decks go.

Buy it fast! or let me now where it is!:D

Carl

Rolf,

Many Kudos, you do fine work.

Tell me about the lights in the X-2000 black VU meters. Mine light, but they look a little dim. Any suggestions for brightening these meters? Mabe a higher wattage replacement bulb? Or any other trick yiu have up your sleeve?

Carl

Check if the bulbs are dark, could be the originals fuse type bulbs.
New from Teac cost $ 9.00 each, but regular 8V,0.80A pigtail works fine.

I have a Teac X10 RTR which has been working well for some time. However today only ff and fast reverse work, but the play function does not work at all. I assume that the capstan belt is either stretched or broken. What is a good source for a replacement? I would like to do the job myself using your excellent guide. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

R.Q.

I have a Teac X10 RTR which has been working well for some time. However today only ff and fast reverse work, but the play function does not work at all. I assume that the capstan belt is either stretched or broken. What is a good source for a replacement? I would like to do the job myself using your excellent guide. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

R.Q.

If you look at the Posts around here you will see that non TEAC belts can cause problems on when the deck reverses. Its a lot of work to take it apart and I would not want to do it twice. The belts cost around $20. Email TEAC and they will give you the parts number and the price. Have fun. Check the post here. Rolf did a terrific job on how to take a 1000 apart.

Eric

Eric,

Thanks for the reply. I emailed Teac at parts@teac.com but I have not received a reply yet. Is this the proper link to their parts dept.? Thanks again

R.Q.

Looks right. They will get back to you....Eric

Eric,

Thanks for the reply. I emailed Teac at parts@teac.com but I have not received a reply yet. Is this the proper link to their parts dept.? Thanks again

R.Q.

I emailed the other day and received this back.
Hope it helps!

"Dear Customer,

The drive belt, part number 5534692001, is available at $13.80 each. Please add $4 for postage/freight per order for UPS ground service within CONTINENTAL USA plus local and state sales taxes where applicable. Prices quoted are only for SHIPMENT WITHIN THE U.S. or its territories.

We are required to collect state sales tax for residents of Arizona, California, Connecticut, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Virginia, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Texas, Tennessee, Washington, Minnesota and others, regardless of shipping point. If you do not want us to collect state sales tax by adding it to your order, we must have a COPY of your resale or tax exempt certificate at the time the order is placed.

Please, NO CODs or PERSONAL CHECKS, but we can accept Visa, MasterCard, American Express, or money orders. There is a $10 minimum for credit card orders.

When you place your order, please include a copy of this response, your name, a U.S. shipping address, and day-time telephone number.

Thank you"

I ordered the belt on the phone after getting a similar email reply. When I receive it, then the fun will begin. I have a graphic equalizer and an Integrex Dolby B unit in the same signal path. This has created many spaghetti connections in a small wall unit space.

Digiti,

Was reading your post about the problem, when you start taking it apart, be sure to check the linkage for the pinch-rollers as the X-10 has the same linkage as X-1000 model.

Good luck with the surgery:thmbsp:

Oh my... Vintage, that two tone X-1000r is beatiful.. droooooowl...

Thank you,that deck has a new home with a 90 year old jazz-artist:yes:

I need advise on VU meters for Teac X-1000R. I bought on ebay X-1000R and everything is normal (I have to replace the belt ) except I noticed something strange. My VU meters on play don't work. They are OK on recording.
I don't know if that is normal or not. In the past I was using cassette decks so I don't know too much about reels to reels. In the manual I didn't find too much about this.

Chris

Problem resolved. It was a user end problem. I still have to replace the belt and left inertia roller to have a perfect unit.
Like many before me, I want to say thanks to Vintage TX and his input in this Forum. He and his work is a reason that I decided to go with Teac X-1000R and not some other reel to reel.

Thanks Chris

I have the X-7R, the transport mechanism is the same as yours. http://www.obsoletemedia.com/tapedecks/x7rbelt/replacebelt.htm

Just a quick post of thanks to Rolf for all the excellent pictures and help here. This thread certainly made changing the belt in my X-2000R MUCH easier.

Hello All,
I have just spent most of the evening reading Rolfs very descriptive messages for replacing belts on a Teac X1000R {X2000R]
As I have X 2000R this info will be very helpful. Many thanks for that Rolf..

Can you tell me if any of this info is applicable to the X1000M ?.
I also have a Teac X 1000M and cannot find much info on this M/c.
It worked when I first had it but I now find it needs new belts.
Can anyone tell me how much difference there is between the Teac X1000R and the X 1000M please ?.
I am aware that the X1000M has an extra belt to the R model.
Does anyone know if belts for the X100m are available from Teac parts?.
Also does anyone know if I can download a manual for the X1000M. Either a service or operators manual.
All help much appreciated.
PeterUK.
PS, I hadnt realised how much information was availabe to Reel to Reel fans on this Forum.

Welcome to AK Peteruk :thmbsp:
Glad the information helped you, did a check for the drive-belt, I don't have spec's on 1000 M, actually never seen one before but 2000 M and X-10 M uses the same belt # 5534 690 000.
Maybe check with Teac and see what they say.
parts@teac.com

Let us know what you find,

Any pictures of your 1000 M ?:scratch2:

Thanks for your message Rolf.
I have tried to obtain belts from Teac UK but they gave me the
number of another firm to contact..
Tried them and only an answerphone on,Left message but haven't heard back... Will try again tomorrow.

Had a look at Vintageknobs website,
And have found out the differences between the X 1000R,
The X1000M and the X 1000. As follows.........
X 1000R 4 track autoreverse. 6 heads. DBx type 1.Speeds 9.5 & 19cms.
X 1000M 2 track with 2 & 4 track replay. DBx type 1.Speeds 19 &38cms.
X 1000 4 track. 3 speeds DBx type 2. speeds 9.5 & 19cms.
Thanks to Vintageknobs website for that info...
Re, pictures . I will try to upload a couple if I can.
Thanks for help all. Peter UK.

You welcome for the help, if you want I can check with Teac in Montebello CA for you if they can supply the correct belt.:yes:

test

Hello Rolf,
re:-
Belts for X-1000M. I have been offered the belts from someone in the UK.
I am hoping they will be they right ones.
He assured me they are new.
So I will take a chance and see how it goes.
If they aren't I will get back to you and take up your offer to see if the belts are obtainable from Teac in Montebello CA.
Many thanks for help so far .
If I can figure out how to upload pics to this thread I will post those pics I mentioned in a previous post.

Does anyone know why I got a message from Ringmaster with the word "TEST" ?. Wondering !.....
Thanks All.
PeterUK.

My Son typed "Test" to prove to me that I am able to "Submit Reply" to the Forum. I tried to delete it, but I wasn't able to figure out how to do it; perhaps the "Administrator" can do it for me.

I am trying to send a message to Vintage TX, and the Form will let me Log On, but when I try to "Submit Reply" the Form comes back that I am not Logged On. I am wondering if there is a limit to the message size; usually the Forum has a featue that will tell me, but the only thing I get is: I am not Logged On.

Posted in new thread

VintageTX & stereofisher,

I have two of the Teac X-1000R machines, and I don't think I could ever part with them. I have always used the "DBX1 Professional Noise Reduction" feature at 7.5 IPS, and the tapes sound as good as CD's to me (I know there's a lot of people out there that hear things that I don't).

I have about 10,000 LP's and 8,000 45's that I've been restoring, using the "Diamond Cut: and "Waves" restoration software. My son posted pictures of my basement, on one of the other AudioKarma" forums, showing my collection.

I am starting to process some of my tapes, using the restoration software. I used the "Automatic Spacing" when I made the original recordings; this automatically finds the silent spots, and places "Markers" at the end of each track. I do not have to separate the "Tracks" for CD searching. I do have to do some digital "Equalizing" with the 20-band digital equalizer; and, I have to do "Song Leveling", because some of the tracks are louder than others.

I've had to return the machines to Teac a few times to have the tape transport mechanism adjusted, but, the main problem that I have is cleaning the "Pot's), (MIC, LINE & OUTPUT). I need to do this again on one of the machines, but I can't figure out how to get to the back of them to spray with contact cleaner.

VintageTX: If you could help me with this, I would be grateful.

I've never had good luck with the Type "EE" feature; I had too many "drop-outs" with the TDK type "EE" tapes. The tapes I used were the 10-1/2"
"Maxell Back Coated XLI 35-180B". I was able to get 6+ hours on each tape, using the automatic reverse feature. With earphones I still do not hear any "Print-through" or channel "cross-talk".

I have 7 originally sealed tapes that I would be glad to share with you, but I don't have any idea what to charge for them. I also have the Users Manual & Schematics that I would be happy to send to you to copy, but you would have to send the originals back to me. My address is: John Anderson, 20 Haven Avenue, Abingdon, MD 21009. If you give me your name and address, I'll send them to you to copy & return

Hello Ringmaster. I just joined the forum. I am an electronic technician and enjoy working on these reel to reels as a hobby. I just purchased a Teac X-2000R that needed repair. I wasn't sure myself if I was going to be able to clean the scratchy pots on mine without removing the entire front cover, but was able to. I use Jiffy Bath from GC Electronics. There are generally openings on these pots where the leads are. With the straw, I was able to aim the spray at the upper lead side on the pots, although I couldn't see the openings. If you are able to spray in this area, and then work the pots back and forth several times, it should work for you. It worked well on mine.

I also wanted to thank Vintage TX for taking the time to provide this excellent information about the shifting of the belt. I ordered a belt online. It is supposed to be for this deck, but I think that it may be a little small. Mine did not have the washers on the motor mount and it seemed as if the screws had never been cracked loose. When I installed the belt, it worked fine in the forward direction, but was having trouble changing position on the flywheels when reversing. I went to the hardware store and got a couple washers and now it shifts fine. Although the deck now works very well, I followed the advice on this forum and purchased a belt from Teac, which I should receive in the next few days. The operators manual also provides a nice explanation under the heading "closed loop dual capstan". They say that the engineers at Teac designed this system in order for one of the capstans to run at a slightly faster speed than the other.

One of the reel spindles on mine is slightly bent. I've tried to straighted it, but am sure that it will never be perfect. Does anyone know where I may be able to find a spindle or the whole reel table? Perhaps one will come up on ebay sometime.

AAA3330,

I took the front panel off of one of my units some time ago; it looked so complicated and I just put it back on. It's possible I did not see the holes; I'll take another look.

Do not try to straighten the spindles, I had one break off during an accident while it was in the trunk of my car. The spindle looks like it is made of cast aluminum, which will break very easily. This was a long time ago, and I sent the deck to Teac for repair.

Thanks for your information on cleaning the pots.

Ringmaster,

Thanks for the info on the spindle. I am also afraid that it might break. The deck works ok this way so will probably leave it. I cleaned my potentiometers the way I described because I didn’t want to take the cover off just for this as it seemed quite involved. The pots are actually accessed from the rear. When you take the knobs off of the front, you see three nuts holding the pots in place. I thought that if a person had a deep well socket that you may be able to remove them for better access without removing the front. It looked like it might be a trick to get them back on without removing the front cover. I don’t know if you noticed that they are attached to the underside of a small circuit board. If you could remove just the nuts, then the whole assembly should slide out from the rear. This would be a much better way to clean them as you could turn the board over and have full access to them. I don’t have a deep well socket to fit them, and was afraid that I might not be able to get the nuts back on. It looks to me as if the tape tensioners are attached to the front cover, which was my main detourant. I did remove the plastic piece that surrounds the heads, along with the piece below that.

This is the first deck that I’ve had with the DBX I noise reduction. I haven’t tried it yet, but plan to soon. If the tapes that you are trying to sell are the EE type that you spoke of using, I just saw some that sold on ebay for an outrageous amount. I’ve never had one to try recording with, but as they are more rare, people seem to be willing to pay a lot of money for them.

This must have been one of the highest end decks that Teac ever made. I couldn’t believe the size of that circuit board on the rear, and then there’s all those wires. Good luck at cleaning those pots. :yes:

Ringmaster.

Leave the faceplate alone, just buy a spraycan of good contact cleaner and it will probably have a 2 inch long extension included.
Make a visit to your local hardware store and buy a piece of vacuum hose and make a extension to reach from the back of the deck.
If yours have the woodcabinet, that need to come off first, then the plastic cabinet, slide the deck out.
On the rear where the RCA and power cord is located ( black metal plate ) take the 4 screws out on L + R side, pull it back and down just a bit so you can see the MIC / LINE / INPUT pot's, use the extension on the spray can and spray in both the opening on each pot, work the switches several times afterwards.
Let it dry for awhile before you mount the rear panel back on and test the deck. :thmbsp:

AAA3330,

If you take the reel-table off and look on the back if the centerpost is OK, there is a solution without buying a complete reel-table.
Center-piece screw from 3340, 3440, X-10, 32, 34 are all the same as yours.

Vintage TX,

Thanks for the info on the spindle. I was just trying to think of some way to extend the straw on your contact cleaner. Using vacuum tubing as an extension sounds like a great idea. I also agree that you don't want to take the faceplate off.:no: It seems to me to be more of an extension of the chassis and quite involved for just cleaning the pots.

You welcome for the help.
Yes the vacuum line is a life saver here for those hard to reach pot's.
If you move that rear slanted panel down and a good light you can spray all 3 without any bigger problems.

Good Luck :thmbsp:

Hi,

I decided to put my x-1000r back into service after it sat in a box for a a long while. I expected to have a belt problem so I installed a new one using the instructions post here. Great work!

My new problem is my pinch rollers do not engage as they should. They remain in the lowered position and will only engage after I manually lift them into place. The deck functions properly afterwards. The rollers will not disengage either. They will not move at all without my help. What is the likely problem and fix for this?

andyw,

Try lifting the pinch rollers without playing a tape. If they move down very slowly or not at all until you push them down, then the lubricant is dried. After you lift them, they should move back down very quickly.

AAA330,

Thanks for your reply. They do not move in either direction easily. I have to force them. Is there is way to get them fixed without approaching them from the rear? I have already replace the back plate that covers the belt assembly. I am not technically inclined and I don't want to push my luck by removing too many parts. If the answer is lubrication, I hope it can be done from the front.

I have never seen an X-1000 up close, but have a X-2000R and understand that they are very similar. This is a very common problem with all decks. You should be able to remove them from the front. Perhaps someone else is more familiar with your model and can offer better insight than I can as to how exactly to go about removing them with your model. You'll need to clean the old lube after disassembling. I use a spray cleaner/lube. You could use some 3 in 1 oil before reassembly.

If you took the fly-wheels off when you replaced the belt, rear linkage for the pinch-rollers it's easy to reach.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/TeacX1000RBeltchange017.jpg

Here is the whole assembly for X-1000 R and X-2000 models, nr: 14 is the rear plate assembly in the picture above.
I soak each pivot assembly with MEK or head-cleaner first, then light machine oil or gun-oil works fine, engage the linkage by hand 10-20 time afterwards.
You don't need to take the whole face-plate off for this problem.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/Linkage.jpg

Take the head-cover and lower plastic plate cover off you be able to reach the pivots marked in red circles.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/Linkage2.jpg

Vintage TX, Just followed the guide for the replacement of the belt. This is a great service and is very much appreciated. I did find something and am not sure about. After removal of the right flywheel I found a flat metal washer under it. Is one suppose to be on the left side as well? I did not see any pictures or mention of it in the guide about it....Paul

Hi Paul, did you check so the capstan-motor has a washer underneath ?

If it looks like nr: 64 both fly-wheels should have one.
#Washer flat
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/teacx1000.jpg

No, Since I never took the pulley off of the motor. I just cleaned the muck off the pully. I did put everything back together (minus mystery washer). It sound sweet. I guess I need to take it back off to look at the capstan-motor....Paul

Try reverse play and see what happens, many times people try to change the drive-belt with taking the motor out and washer falls down.
There is a picture here somewhere, showing the washer between motor and assembly plate.:thmbsp:

It looks kinda like it. However it was sitting on the shaft. I did not pull anything apart. 15 and 16 I did not see on either side? I'm a bit puzzled now...Paul

P.S. it is on a X-1000R

The motor was still attached to the plate with the 3 screws and the pully intacked on. I pretty much followed the guide without any deviation. Where it the picture you mention of the capstan-motor. I might have a better understanding of it...Paul

Oh I see, thought you had a X-2000 model, yours doesn't have 15 or 16.
Only 2000 models and X-10R

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/VintageTX/DSCF0005-6.jpg:)

I think I found it. Post #84 had my answer. I never saw this washer (arrow points to it). I guess the person that owned it or repair shop never installed it correctly. I will do it the correct way. Thanks for the help...Paul

Great, problem solved, Enjoy your Teac now Paul.:thmbsp:

The auto reverse seems to work even without this. However, I need to do it correctly since I started this rebuild. I don't need any problem down the road...Paul

Hey AAA3330,

My message regarding the Type "EE" tapes was a little misleading. The Type "EE" tapes that I have are 7-1/2" RTR. I have 7 of them; a few have some songs recorded on them, and I doubt if they were ever played completely. Most of them have not been used; they were replaced by TDK, and I don't believe the boxes were sealed when I received them. If you will give me your address, I will be glad to send them to you at no charge (if you want to, you could make a donation to the site).

The 7 new sealed box tapes are Maxell 10-1/2" RTR, "XLI, 35-180, Back Coated". I doubt that I will ever use them, because I have over 50 recorded tapes that I plan to process and put on CD's, after which I may record over (considering my age, they may never get processed).

I'm slow returning to the site, because I did not receive any notification of new posts until today.....don't know what happened here.

Pheu, I took the back off of my unit to spray the pots. I removed the slanted back lower panel, snipped some "Tie-Wraps", squeezed the cleaner with it's short tube between all of the wires and sprayed around the pots and put it back together. I have to unhook my other unit, take it down from the shelf, and put this one back up and connect it, before I can tell if I accomplished my task. I need a taller person than me to move these units around. If this one works, I'll take the other unit apart and clean the pots on them; I'll get about three feet of the hose first (just kidding). I'll keep you posted (if it works).

Thanks to all for your advice.

Ringmaster,

I posted a message in your private mailbox. Glad that you were able to get to the pots. I too, just joined the site and am just learning how to subscribe to threads to receive email messages when there is a new post.

I'm really impressed with the site. I have an extensive background in electronics and a passion for these old RTR's, but there are still many many things that I do not know and have found the site to be very informative and the people on it very friendly. Was glad to help out.

I also found a spindle for mine on ebay and was able to use my original reel table. The led's for the program and repeat had broken traces. I repaired them, but one of the leads didn't hold, so I need to redo that, but then, I think that I am done with it. I didn't calibrate the dbx circuitry, but am hoping that it won't need it, because I really don't want to mess with it.

Right now I'm running a Pioneer RT-909 on my stereo system, and am in no hurry to switch it out. It's a very nice deck also. I know that I probably sound like the old lady with 14 cats, but I have several vintage pieces that I just refuse to part with, so I'll play one for a while, then I'll get out another and use it for a while. It's kind of nice to watch people fighting over equipment on the bay that I already have.:D

I know what you mean about lugging these beasts around and the Teac X-1000/2000 are about the biggest and heaviest that I've seen.:thmbsp:

Has anyone run across this problem:

I have a barely used X-2000R that upon purchase the capstan belt was sticky and I had assumed the original owner had it turned on too long and burned out the capstan motor. So.....I get a rebuilt capstan motor and controller card and still the capstan motor will not spin. :no:

Everything else on the deck works perfectly, logic, FF, Rewind, The relays click through when you change play direction.....just no damn capstan movement. :scratch2:

Any advice at this point would be awesome. I would REALLY like to not ship this machine off for service....fix it myself would be far preferred.

Best,

Paul :thmbsp:

Nicely done Eric. Best pictured how to on the Teac X series. The X10 I had was very similar to the X1000r. People really should be coming here to learn how to keep these reel to reels alive and well. :)

My Teac X1000R works again, I also had problems with the belt and that the capstan-motor at the top of the belt was placed instead on the bottom, forward and reverse play always gave tape transport problems.
The dealer technician had make a mistake in mounting the motor at the top of the belt.
On the basis of information and pictures placed here I could make everything original.

I also moved the recording heads near the capstan
and the playback heads on the middle of the main head assembly mounting plate,
also affirmed in the service manual!
It wasn't that way.

Adjusting the heads; I did it with the help of a mirror and placed the tape lead-in in positions of the heads, I could see the heads exactly whether the were good adjusted or not!.
During playback of a very first recorded tape, I did a fine tuning of the PB. heads forward and reverse, then I made a recording and I monitor the sound so I could fine tuning of the REC. heads, also forward and reverse.
Checking if no sound came from the the other tracks which was "reverse sounding" in both directions.

I have prepared an M3 nut, on a location of a faulty M3 hole on a PB. head-base, I drilled the M3 hole out with a 4mm drill and placed an prepared M3 nut in the 4mm hole, that worked well!

If needed, preparing a M3 nut:
The M3 nut must been polished until it was pure rounded.
On one side exactly 4mm and on the other side just about round
I did this with a battery-Drill I placed several M3 nuts on a M3 bolt for proper fixation in the drill and then with a fine file polishing one of the the nut's until it was perfect round and 4mm exactly.
It was not good in the first time, but the second one, was very good, can you see me smiling!

After small adjustments everything works perfectly.
But, still a few M3 holes are not in a good shape one at the PB. head and one REC. head, this became of many adjustments of the heads, causing by the faulty tape-transport.
But as I said, at this point the X1000R works good.

Many thanks to this forum and special to Vintage TX. :music:

Hello. I have read Eric's tutorial regarding the capstan belt replacement and pinch roller lubrication maintenance and as well written and illustrated as it is, I find I would still prefer to have an experienced techinican do the work on my X1000R. After 7+ years stored in it's original box sealed I recently had the capstan belt replaced (bought one off of ebay) and the pinch roller mechanisms cleaned and lubed by a high-end audio store tech here in Indy who has past experience working on open reel decks. However, he didn't have a tape there for any throrough testing and wasn't there when I picked it up. Now, I find that the tape drops away from heads a little in either play or reverse play. By creating a minute amount of drag on either pinch roller (depending on the direction of play) it works fine; but as soon as I let go of the pinch roller the sound quickly fades out. Note: The pinch roller engagement mechanisms work freely. With the power off. when I move them upward and let go they drop without hesitation. The rubber is in very good condition as well.

Indianapolis is a dustbowl for any qualified service work. However, I will be in Chicago July 15, 16 ish and was hoping for qualified recommendation as to a service center I could take it to. Thanks in advance for all replies.

David

It is very likely that the pinch roller pressure is inadequate.

If you remove the back cover, you will see two alen (hex) screws on the top, right above where the two solenoids for pinch roller engagement and pause are.

The right one is used to fine tune the pinch roller pressure. Turn it just a few degrees to the right for an increase in pressure. Experiment with both directions and with all combinations of full/half/empty supply and take up spools, until you get it right.

There might be a couple more adjustments necessary on the servo controlled tension arms, if the adjustment suggested doesn't fix the problem in every combination of tape load.

Hey, everyone, i was surfing through the net after bying a Teac 1000 at my local used electronics store. This forum must be heaven for old school audio freaks like us! Thanks alot for this great tut!

The problem with my Teac is that it doesn't rewind, it just stops. It almost seems like the reels want to turn against eachother.
Another problem is that, when i press play, it play the wrong way and constantly increasing in speed almost as it were FF'ing (or rewinding).
I tried to demonstrate the problem in this video, pleas tell me if i need to post pics or more vid's to explain better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIzUm30FVVI

Also, during the tut, i oiled up the linkage to the pinch rollers, but they still take about 10 seconds to land when i lift them up with my fingers. I have tried to make them more efficient but found it impossible.

Hello SaSi: Thank you for your suggestions. If I ever develop the nerve to open it up myself I'll ..gulp.. try to perfrom the fine tuning as you described.
David

Hello again everyone. I am looking for a Teac X1000R qualified service center in the Chicago area. I will be driving there on July 14th and wish to have my deck serviced.

If anyone knows of a GOOD facility please respond.

Thanks in advance!

Pucho (David)

hey again, i was just wonering.
Is it ok to post a new threa about my problem, or shoul i just keep posting here? Since i really feel a need to get some help on my teac :)

cheers
B

Post here and we will try to help you out:thmbsp:

Hey, everyone, i was surfing through the net after bying a Teac 1000 at my local used electronics store. This forum must be heaven for old school audio freaks like us! Thanks alot for this great tut!

The problem with my Teac is that it doesn't rewind, it just stops. It almost seems like the reels want to turn against eachother.
Another problem is that, when i press play, it play the wrong way and constantly increasing in speed almost as it were FF'ing (or rewinding).
I tried to demonstrate the problem in this video, pleas tell me if i need to post pics or more vid's to explain better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIzUm30FVVI

Also, during the tut, i oiled up the linkage to the pinch rollers, but they still take about 10 seconds to land when i lift them up with my fingers. I have tried to make them more efficient but found it impossible.
Hi Basker,
I did post a response to your question a couple of days ago, but it appears it never made it to the thread. I must have done something wrong.

Rethinking about your question, it appears that you have at least a pinch roller problem. You write:
i oiled up the linkage to the pinch rollers, but they still take about 10 seconds to land when i lift them up with my fingers
Do you really mean that when you press PLAY in either direction the pinch rollers start moving towards the capstan and it takes them 10 seconds to touch the capstan and tape and press tape against the capstan?

If that is the case, then when pinch rollers actually touch the capstan, doesn't the tape start moving as it should (with constant speed and in the correct direction)?

Without any further description (and I'm afraid the video wasn't very helpful), what I can guess is that the pinch roller carrier is stuck with a mixture of grease, dust and oil and the pressure solenoid that lifts it against the capstan can't do the job right. And when the pinch rollers touch, there isn't enough pressure on them to act as they should.

Have you tried to manually put some pressure upwards so that the pinch rollers actually touch the tape and "pinch" it against the capstans? If my theory is correct then the first thing that comes to mind is that the deck needs a strip down of the transport and a good cleaning. I did the same thing and actually left the transport levers into boiling water with detergent for an hour.

Please give us some better details on the problem, like:
If you press FF, does it fast forward a tape all the way from the supply reel tothe tape up reel?
If you have a full take up reel and press Rewind, does it rewind at all? Does it stop midway? When?
When you press play, if your deck is an X-1000 it should only play in forward. If it is an X-1000R, it can play both forward and reverse. What is the direction when you play back? Does the tape direction change when you switch directions?

Please remember that during playback, the only thing that controls direction and speed are the capstans/pinch rollers. Otherwise, both the supply and the take up reels are meant to rotate in opposite directions to aid in the tensioning of the tape...

Hey, everyone, i was surfing through the net after bying a Teac 1000 at my local used electronics store. This forum must be heaven for old school audio freaks like us! Thanks alot for this great tut!

The problem with my Teac is that it doesn't rewind, it just stops. It almost seems like the reels want to turn against eachother.
Another problem is that, when i press play, it play the wrong way and constantly increasing in speed almost as it were FF'ing (or rewinding).


I can't help very much, but i'll think:

Your Right-Reel-Motor does not rotate at all!
The Capstan-solonoid doesn't work (good),
therefore the Pinch-Roller assembly doesn't move at all when you try to Play the Tape!
(After you invoke the Play button, and then press the Stop button,
i don't hear a kind of release sound, what the Capstan-Solonoid really does, all the solonoid sounds the same, the Capstan-soloniod must sounds more massive!)
But i'll think i can hear the Capstan-Motor,
just a few seconds after your turning on the X-1000.

It is not a Reverse Tapedeck, it can only Play forwards.

Is this all correct, or not?

After watching the video, what I can see the R-reel-motor don't work.
Pinch-roller linkage has problems, it should fall down directly and when engaged move up with a "clonk":D ( famous teac sound guys )
#Repair the linkage problem first, try from the front after you take the head-cover off you are able to oil the linkage from the top between the heads and faceplate.
# take the rear cover off and check the wires from the R-reel-motor soldered to the main pc-board (upper section) bad solder joints or broken wire.
And you have auto-reverse playing both ways + record function built in.
Let us know what you find.:thmbsp:

Alright guys, thanks a lot for the help.
I had a bit of a teac session yesturay, and found that the capstan belt is slack. Is it suppose to be? anyway, i think i need a new belt. the fly weels are not rotating when i press play :(

I will go about fixing the linkage problem though, and order me a new belt :) , should i just go to ebay for that? I will also check right reel motor.

The reason im not in here much is that our internet at our house is broken, so i have to go to an internet cafe all the time.
Thank you very much for helping me. !

The drive-belt is suppose to be tight, before you order the drive-belt, check the capstan-motor so it's spin on both speeds.
You can test this with the motor assembly plate off the deck from the back.
Follow my instructions how to take it apart.
I would suggest buying the belt from Teac, some aftermarket belts is thicker, shorter, longer and wider then original, and in this model you need the exact one to prevent problems later on with burned up capstan motor or auto-reverse trouble + tape slacking between the pinch-rollers.
After you take the rear plastic cover off, check the R-reel-motor wires, could be a bad solder joint or broken wire.
If you need another motor, X-10 R, Tascam 32, 34 will fit.:thmbsp:

Hey again. Been a while, i have been up to my teeth in work, but now im ready to get my teac working! I just installed the new belt and it fits fine! :), i got the belt form "http://www.daeinconline.com/parts.html#belts" Still the same problem with the pinch rollers not even moving at all when i press play :(

where can i go to get a motor, ebay?

cheers

Can you push them up to contact manually ?

nope, when i do that it all stops or, the yeape gets slack on the right sida and stops. I recon its because of the faulty right motor :(

Did you check so the capstan-motor is working ?
Linkage for the pinch-rollers cleaned when you had it apart ?
To test the R-reel-motor with tape loaded on the deck, take both pinch-rollers off the machine,clean the two shafts from oil or dirt before you load a tape ( 7 or 10 inch doesn't matter ) look close on the R-tension roller when you press play, if the R-motor is working correctly both reels should be moving.
Test and report back:thmbsp:

Did you check so the capstan-motor is working

Yes, its spinning, but there is a squeeky noise when i turn the machine on and off, its comming from the new belt.. is this normal?


Linkage for the pinch-rollers cleaned when you had it apart ?

Yeah i guess, as far as the tuorial goes. But the pinch rollers still doesnt move at all when i press play. They are very tight,and hard to push up even if i push with my fingers. (i might have done this totally wrong)

To test the R-reel-motor with tape loaded on the deck, take both pinch-rollers off the machine,clean the two shafts from oil or dirt before you load a tape ( 7 or 10 inch doesn't matter ) look close on the R-tension roller when you press play, if the R-motor is working correctly both reels should be moving.

Well, i think that both reel motors are running, but its damn hard to tell, still if i try to ff, the reels just tense up and doesn't move at all!


Test and report back:thmbsp:

:) thanks

Thanks for a excellent answer.
I still think you need a second cleaning on the linkage section inside.
#The weird noise from the belt, can be dirty fly-wheels or capstan motor pulley, also check the pulley so it's not loose (has 2 small screws).
Buying a aftermarket belt for this model can cause problems..had several decks apart from previous owners with wrong thickness and not correct length.
#Check / oil the linkage again, a common gunked up spot is the pivot located between the heads and base of the face-plate.
#Take the head-cover off and look from the top at the same time you press the pinch-roller up manually, you are able to see the pivot, use light machine oil or gun-oil and be sure to wipe off any leftover spill afterwards.
After you have the linkage working correctly report back again.:)

Thanks for a excellent answer.
I still think you need a second cleaning on the linkage section inside.

I just did, linkage seems smoother now, i dont really know how loose it is suppose to be though, but it seems ok.., only thing is that now, whenever I press play, the pinch rollers go up and then the whole thing stops, it's pretty weird.. i made a new video of what happens http://www.youtube.com/v/Ep9Uq6ytESY

#The weird noise from the belt, can be dirty fly-wheels or capstan motor pulley, also check the pulley so it's not loose (has 2 small screws).
Buying a aftermarket belt for this model can cause problems..had several decks apart from previous owners with wrong thickness and not correct length.

Well, considering the noise and that i cleaned the pulley and weels pretty good I might have purchased a bad belt :(

#Check / oil the linkage again, a common gunked up spot is the pivot located between the heads and base of the face-plate.
#Take the head-cover off and look from the top at the same time you press the pinch-roller up manually, you are able to see the pivot, use light machine oil or gun-oil and be sure to wipe off any leftover spill afterwards.
After you have the linkage working correctly report back again.:)

I am really hoping I (we) will get this thing fixed :)

You made some progress, and thanks for the video.
I see the capstans starts spinning after you press play, that's good.
Pinch-rollers movement I think is OK.
But the R-tension arm falls down below the point where automatic shut off switch engage.
#Try this now, load the tape as you did in the video, before you press play push carefully up the R-tension arm and hold it still, press PLAY and watch the R-reel motor if it starts moving and pulling the tape or not.

Again you did a good job, the video helped alot.:thmbsp:

You made some progress, and thanks for the video.
Great, thanks! Very nice to know that there is progress

I see the capstans starts spinning after you press play, that's good.
Pinch-rollers movement I think is OK.
But the R-tension arm falls down below the point where automatic shut off switch engage.
#Try this now, load the tape as you did in the video, before you press play push carefully up the R-tension arm and hold it still, press PLAY and watch the R-reel motor if it starts moving and pulling the tape or not.


Again you did a good job, the video helped alot.:thmbsp:


Made a video when doing what you said with the right tension arm !
http://www.youtube.com/v/IUD7HmHByY8
doesnt seem like its moving at all :(

No it doesn't, right reel-motor is not working correctly.
Does it fforward OK with tape loaded ?
Try with the 10 inch reel mounted and see if the motor works in that mode.:scratch2:
By the way, did you check the three wires from the R-reel-motor when you had it apart ?
Located on top of the main board when rear cover is off, follow the wires coming from the motors, and check the soldering points, sometimes these have cold solder joints and even broken off as that can happen when sliding the rear plastic cover off the deck.

No it doesn't, right reel-motor is not working correctly.
Does it fforward OK with tape loaded ?

Nope, i doesn't

Try with the 10 inch reel mounted and see if the motor works in that mode.:scratch2:

Yeah, its the same, still not working

By the way, did you check the three wires from the R-reel-motor when you had it apart ? To me, the wires seems fine, no fractures or weariness, any other ways i can check it?
Located on top of the main board when rear cover is off, follow the wires coming from the motors, and check the soldering points, sometimes these have cold solder joints and even broken off as that can happen when sliding the rear plastic cover off the deck.

Cheers

Well what I should do in a case like this;

I disconnect the wire's from the Right-Reel motor (to Tape-Deck),
and connect it to a adjustable DC Powersupply (0-12V)
(with adjust. current limit 0-2amp) and connect to the Supply and starting from 0V and increase the voltage at that point that the motor start to turns slighty!

WARNING!
!!! >>>>>> Take care that the tape deck must left alone, thus no wires from motor to the tape-deck,
and NOT ANY REALS on it if you connect the motor to the DC-supply during the tests <<<< !!!

If it never turns, the motor is mostly defect.
If it turns then there is an electronic problem.

What a great HOW TO, many thanks. Just accquired a X1000R last night from the original owner withe the wood case and plastic dust cover. Looks like it needs a belt, will try to order one from Teac today. Original owner said she didn't use it much and bought it in Japan for 500.00 in 1985. Fun , Fun, Fun

What a great HOW TO, many thanks. Just accquired a X1000R last night from the original owner withe the wood case and plastic dust cover. Looks like it needs a belt, will try to order one from Teac today. Original owner said she didn't use it much and bought it in Japan for 500.00 in 1985. Fun , Fun, Fun

You are going to love it. Checks Rolf's post (Vintage TX) post on it. Priceless.

Eric:music:

Hi all,

since I bought X-1000M some time ago I tried to get it in working order, and I am at the point where I need some expert advice :). First of all, there are some very nice posts about this machine, congratulations..

My first diagnosis was - replace belt (please note, I am still talking in singular). I ordered sigle belt since in deck I have found what appears to be remains of single belt. Well, I was wrong :(. Back to the point: I ordered and received main belt and put it on, but then I had new problem:
transistor marked B507 (Q154 - Power/servo pcb) was blown in (at least) 2 pcs.

So now I need 3 advices/opinions:

1. what is main belt that I got: flywheel belt or capstain belt? The one I received I put in deck as capstain belt, but it looked a little bit loose.
2. where to find another belt?
3. any ideas why this transistor has blown? Can it be connected to missing belt?

Thanks,
Tomi

Is there a plastic washer between B507 and Chasse? the transistor will short had it happen to mine and I replaced it from ebay supplier also there is only one belt 1000R
I am not familiar with 1000M Sorry.

The difference between the 1000M and the 1000R is that the "M" is half track and doesn't have auto reverse. However, I would expect the transport to be quite similar for the same issues to apply to both machines.

The belt is threaded between the capstan flywheels and also the motor's pulley. IIRC, the motor goes under the belt. When the belt is threaded that way it is quite tense.

Is there a plastic washer between B507 and Chasse? the transistor will short had it happen to mine and I replaced it from ebay supplier also there is only one belt 1000R
I am not familiar with 1000M Sorry.

Hi, there are 2 B507 transistors on that board. One is "up", on top of board and it is connected to the frame (for cooling), and there is plastic washer. However, that one did not "blown", the other one, that is just soldered to board, without heatsink, has blown.
I am trying to find equivalent since B507 is not currentli available in local electronic shops.
Br,
Tomi

The difference between the 1000M and the 1000R is that the "M" is half track and doesn't have auto reverse. However, I would expect the transport to be quite similar for the same issues to apply to both machines.

The belt is threaded between the capstan flywheels and also the motor's pulley. IIRC, the motor goes under the belt. When the belt is threaded that way it is quite tense.

Yes, you are right. The transport and rest of electronics is more or less - the same. Only, my deck had additional belt (R version has capstain belt, while M has that + flywheel belt).
I did put everything as it should be, but since the surface of flywheels and "gear" is slightly convex, probably when motor is engaged everything seats on its place, and belt is tense.

Still, my biggest problem is where to find replacement transistor, why this one has blown, and where to find flywheel belt.

BR,
Tomi

Hi,
there is slight update from my side. I have discovered that (according to service manual) the belt that is marked capstain belt for X-1000 (I am referring to the position) is marked as flywheel belt in X-1000M (so owners of 1000M, be careful). I am not sure that they are the same, I could measure mine.
I have scanned pages from service manual that will explain this, but I have to check what is upload limit for pictures (regrading size).

BR,
Tomi

Hi, there are 2 B507 transistors on that board. One is "up", on top of board and it is connected to the frame (for cooling), and there is plastic washer. However, that one did not "blown", the other one, that is just soldered to board, without heatsink, has blown.
I am trying to find equivalent since B507 is not currentli available in local electronic shops.
Br,
Tomi
My X1000R had a blown transistor (not that one). I have a service manual and looked up the part number. I called TEAC and they had it in stock, costs about $4.00.

As soon as I replaced it, I was up and running!

Doug

Hi,
there is slight update from my side. I have discovered that (according to service manual) the belt that is marked capstain belt for X-1000 (I am referring to the position) is marked as flywheel belt in X-1000M (so owners of 1000M, be careful). I am not sure that they are the same, I could measure mine.
I have scanned pages from service manual that will explain this, but I have to check what is upload limit for pictures (regrading size).

BR,
Tomi
I think that capstan belt and flywheel belt refers to the same thing. The single motor gives power to the flywheels for each capstan.

There could be a difference between the belt size and flywheel configuration for the R models in contrast to the single direction models as they don't need to wigle the belt when running in reverse, but I suspect that for uniformity the transports (flywheel and belt configuration) is the same across the X-1000 models.

I think that capstan belt and flywheel belt refers to the same thing. The single motor gives power to the flywheels for each capstan.

There could be a difference between the belt size and flywheel configuration for the R models in contrast to the single direction models as they don't need to wigle the belt when running in reverse, but I suspect that for uniformity the transports (flywheel and belt configuration) is the same across the X-1000 models.

Please look at page at this link:
http://rapidshare.com/files/218897974/pages_Page_39.jpg.html
I have only 10 downloads limit, so if it exceeds, I will find some other solution), and also this: http://www.openreel.net/fb7.jpg

Maybe this explains things more clear.
BR,
Tomi

First, what a great thread. I've read though it entirely an its a fascinating and fantastically written guide. Rolf, you are the master, and thanks to everyone else who contributed.

Tborzic, I read though the SM on the X-1000M and you're right. The 1000M does have 2 belts and they do mix up the names.

I recently purchased a 1000R. My first RTR. The Capstans weren't moving and the right pinch roller would barely move, keeping both pinch rollers from engaging. When I open her up I found that the belt had littarly melted. Teac is backordered on the belts for at least 2 weeks and because I'm dying to see this machine work, I ordered a belt from ebay. I'm sure it'll be the wrong belt, but hopefully it'll work at least well enough to allow me to see if the rest of the deck is functional. Once I find out for sure that the belt doesn't fit right, I'll order the correct one from Teac.

As for the pinch rollers, because only the right was having a problem, I thought it was probably gummed up from the melted belt where the pinch roller arm rotates on the shaft. I removed the hold plate and after a bit of a struggle pulled out the pinch roller assymbly. When I did this the joint plate rotated down and you have to watch out for the washer. I cleaned and oiled the post and the pinch roller arm and put it back together. Its a complete pain to get the joint plate, washer in the right position, but now both pinch rollers engage perfectly. Being a complete noob, I'm sure there's an easier way to do this, but if only one pinch roller is gummed up, this may be helpful.

Glad this thread helped you Phil, just be careful with aftermarket belts as
many have both wrong thickness and lenght.
Problems with reverse play + capstan-motor is the chance you take :)

Here are a few new pictures showing a X-1000R without the upper faceplate.
Little complicated to take apart but in this case the speed-switch had problems + pinch-roller linkage.

If you having problems with pinch-roller linkage the pivot point marked (red arrow in pic:3) in most cases helps the linkage to drop down smooth again after a
good cleaning + re-lube :)
A final video of this one playing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4Yfm_1hbMk

Glad this thread helped you Phil, just be careful with aftermarket belts as
many have both wrong thickness and lenght.
Problems with reverse play + capstan-motor is the chance you take :)


You don't know how much it helped. I knew absolutely nothing about this machine before I started reading this thread. I will be very careful with the new belt. If it looks to be causing any problems at all off it goes and I wait for a new belt from Teac. Thanks again for this great thread.

You welcome Phil, keep us posted how it goes :thmbsp:

I recently purchased a 1000R. My first RTR. The Capstans weren't moving and the right pinch roller would barely move, keeping both pinch rollers from engaging. When I open her up I found that the belt had littarly melted. Teac is backordered on the belts for at least 2 weeks and because I'm dying to see this machine work, I ordered a belt from ebay. I'm sure it'll be the wrong belt, but hopefully it'll work at least well enough to allow me to see if the rest of the deck is functional. Once I find out for sure that the belt doesn't fit right, I'll order the correct one from Teac.

Phildoc:

FYI: I just finished an X-10R. I believe it may take the same belt as your 1000R. I got the belt from New Jersey Factory Service, Inc. Believe they were formerly the TEAC East Coast factory service outlet. Contact was Russ. Phone is (201) 847-0080. They had the belt to me in two days--TEAC part 5534692001 (in case it is the same for 1000R). Cost was a bit more than I've seen quoted for TEAC--$24.95 with shipping. They are also on the web.

I had gotten a belt from DAE via eBay. They shipped very fast; however, I installed the TEAC part because the two belts, viewed together were very slightly different in composition. The belt from New Jersey Factory Service, Inc appears to work perfectly.

Yes, the X-10 R and X-1000 use the same belt :thmbsp:

Phildoc:

FYI: I just finished an X-10R. I believe it may take the same belt as your 1000R. I got the belt from New Jersey Factory Service, Inc. Believe they were formerly the TEAC East Coast factory service outlet. Contact was Russ. Phone is (201) 847-0080. They had the belt to me in two days--TEAC part 5534692001 (in case it is the same for 1000R). Cost was a bit more than I've seen quoted for TEAC--$24.95 with shipping. They are also on the web.

I had gotten a belt from DAE via eBay. They shipped very fast; however, I installed the TEAC part because the two belts, viewed together were very slightly different in composition. The belt from New Jersey Factory Service, Inc appears to work perfectly.

Thanks, I should have the belt I got from ebay tomorrow. I'll give it a try and if it doesn't look good I'll contact your supplier. I'm dying to see if this machine is ok.

Well, got the new belt today and a couple of tapes. The new belt looked like the same width and thickness as the old belt. Can't say anything about size as there wasn't much left of the old belt. Got everything cleaned up and the instillation went well.

There is a diffence between forward and reverse play however. Very subtle. Forward play seems to be a little less dynamic. Don't know how else to describe it. I don't see any slack in the tape in either direction and the belt changes position as its suppose to. It may just need a head cleaning. Unfortunately, I ran out of cleaner during the install. I'm going to order a new belt from Teac non the less, clean the heads. I'm going to try reversing the pinch rollers as well. Maybe they're worn and the one on the right isn't working so well.

Anyway, let me know if anyone has any thoughts. I haven't tried to record anything, but I think that Im in reasonably good shape with this deck.


Edit: Almost forgot. When I first fired it up, the right channel was low and the output control was very scratchy. A little cleaning cured that. When the dbx button is pushed I also got some static, cleaned it somewhat, but still needs cleaning. I'll need to get the right sized allen wrench to take off the knobs and remove the bottom cover to get to the switches better. Swapping the pinch rollers did help some, so it looks like some new pinch rollers as well. Thanks again for all the help.

Great thread. It helped remember how these decks work. I did find something new on one today that would not move the belt from forward part of flywheel to reverse part when direction was changed. So it would spill tape after the supply pressure roller in the forward direction and worked great in the reverse direction. Seems that the motor is purposely tilted to help this happen (biases the belt to front or rear of flywheel depending on the direction).

Some helpful person had changed the capstan motor and deleted all three shim washers from under the motor plate mounting ears. :nono:
Theres 2 under one ear and one under another.


It's actually listed in the service manual which is where I stumbled across them. So if you remove or change the motor, keep track of the washers.

HTH someone else.

im new to this forum but see i should have searched for this forum years ago, im a proud owner of a Teac x-1000r(blk) since 1982 which i purchased in germany while i was stationed there in the army, i have over 20 10" reels with jazz & r&b music that you will not hear on the radio, my jazz reels where made by my father who is no longer with us but when i listen to those reels he's still in the room with me, lately me machine was performing badly & i decided enough was enough, so i just shipped it out today (UPS) to Teac Corp in california for a complete service, if this was the winter time i would have did the service myself as i have an electrical background but this is motorcycle season & i work on bikes (harleys & goldwings etc ) on my days off also i do tv installations & stero's in automobiles so i dont have the time really for my teac, but i cant wait til i get it back, i miss her already

I just picked up a X-1000R as a non working unit and upon opening the back cover found that the belt is broken and almost glued to the two rollers. I watched Vintage's excellent Youtube video and I think I can replace the belt. The unit seems to be in very good condition. The only other thing I noticed in addition to the belt is that the two pinch rollers do not move forward when I hit the play button. I do not know if the missing belt has something to do with this. Any ideas?

Okay here is the hard part, I am trying to take the front cover of to reach the solenoids. But try as I can, I cannot figure out how to take the knobs off.

I have a full set of hex and allen keys and I cannot fit any of them.

Can someone help me?

Thanks

Milan

"Reel to Reel (anything else is a compromise)"

Awesome Post, Vintage TX. I am pleased to report that surgery on my X1000-R went without a hitch thanks to your extremely detailed instructions and pictures.

The pinch roller assembly was gummed up and originally I assumed that black gunk from the detereorated capstan belt had fallen onto it.

sewing machine oil in the right places and the unit is working like a champ!!

Milan

Reel to Reel (anything else would be a compromise)

So, if anybody was reading my issues few pages earlier, here is small report.
Replacement transistor found, and soldered (BD242C).
New belts arrived - installed.
Deck works, without burning anything :).
However, on left roller, after few seconds, tape seems loose, or I do know how to describe it, it looks like right capstan in not turning fast enough. However, since belts are new (2 of them, to remind - it is M version), then it must be:
1. right motor (looking face to deck) in not spinning fast enough - low tape tension

or

2. pressure on tape from roller in not adjusted.

Before I touch something I shouldn't, what do you think?

Thanks,
tomi

Can you explain a little better what you mean by: "on left roller, after few seconds, tape seems loose"? Is the tape forming a loop under the heads? Or is the left tension arm lowering?

Remember, there are two tension arms moving up and down through slots and two pinch rollers pressing tape against the capstans. There should be no loop of tape under the heads and the tension arms should settle between 2/3 and 1/2 of their travel upwards.

Yes, you are right. Now when I look at my post, I am ashamed..
Let me try another time:
when play is pressed - everything OK, tape starts to turn. However, after 2-3 seconds, on RIGHT roller (and capstan), tape seems to "lose contact" and fells off on outer side of deck (towards me).
Best description is that RIGHT roller and capstan is not fast as left (more tape comes in than out), so after few second tape is loose and when I press stop, it looks like tape is "hanged" on two points (like rope :), or as you wrote, tape forms a loop. Tension arms look OK (both in same position), but now you've given me some taught. I am going to pay more attention to tension arm.

But, as I wrote above, I do not think that problem is in capstan speed (with new belts).
Thanks,
Tomi

The problem could be with the pinch roller pressure and left hand tension arm force.

The pinch roller pressure can be adjusted from the top, using a hex driver on the right hand side hex bolt that can be seen on the top of the deck, once the back cover is removed. It controls the travel of the solenoid that engages PLAY. Releasing the pressure to the point speed drifts and tape slips gives you the one extreme. Increasing the pressure to the point you can hear wow and flutter and tape starts to skew gives you the other extreme. Without a gauge, best bet is to adjust midway of the two extremes.

Hello. I also had purchased a belt off of ebay from someone who swears that it is / was the correct one for my X1000R. The same problem ocurred. Not being adventurous as you are I opted to ship my unit to an authorized service center for treatment. The diagnosis...WRONG BELT!

Buy another belt from TEAC and install and I can almost guarantee the tape slop issue will disappear.

Godd luck
David (Pucho):yes:

Hello. I also had purchased a belt off of ebay from someone who swears that it is / was the correct one for my X1000R. The same problem ocurred. Not being adventurous as you are I opted to ship my unit to an authorized service center for treatment. The diagnosis...WRONG BELT!

Buy another belt from TEAC and install and I can almost guarantee the tape slop issue will disappear.

Godd luck
David (Pucho):yes:


I agree. I'm certainly not an expert, but from what I've read, most of the time these symptoms come up, they're due to a wrong belt that someone bought from ebay. Having said that I bought a belt from this (EDIT ) I need to open the machine back up and compare the one I got from Teac. Dont get me wrong, I absolutely think the best thing to do is order your belts from Teac, but at least with this belt, I it appears that I have gotten the correct belt from an ebayer.

Man i get my Teac x-1000r blk back from teac tomorrow from ups after sending it out for service & ii be sitting outside of my house waiting like a little kid , cant wait to hook it back up & listen to my jazz music in my garage while i work on my motorcycles

The problem could be with the pinch roller pressure and left hand tension arm force.

The pinch roller pressure can be adjusted from the top, using a hex driver on the right hand side hex bolt that can be seen on the top of the deck, once the back cover is removed. It controls the travel of the solenoid that engages PLAY. Releasing the pressure to the point speed drifts and tape slips gives you the one extreme. Increasing the pressure to the point you can hear wow and flutter and tape starts to skew gives you the other extreme. Without a gauge, best bet is to adjust midway of the two extremes.

OK, here is report:
I must say, I would save a lot of time If I only read service manual :).
As you correctly wrote, problem was in pinch roller pressure. After releasing pressure things improved, and now it is working fine /when looking in aspect of tape travel).
I will try to get one of calibration tapes so I can finish setting up this machine and enjoy the sound.

Also, thanks for advice to other contributors of this article, but I do not think that belt is issue since this is M version, that has two belts, ensuring stable and accurate speed of both capstans (that is the idea.. :))

BR,
Tomi (Tommy in english :) )

this thread has been a great help. Helped me get the belt changed and get the mechanism cleaned so it seems to be moving freely. Unfortunately there seems be some other issue going on. When I hit play in either direction, there is solenoid "clunk," the pinch rollers move up and the tape tightens up momentarily and then the rollers drop down as everything stops. Same thing happens in FF and RR. If I hold the roller up against the capstan it seems to play okay. Seems to me maybe the solenoid is supposed to pull the mechanism up into a locked position and this is not happening. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Jeff

Are you pushing the "tape lifet" button up before engaging?

I wasn't but I tried that today, still same problem

Mine does not engage at the moment (from a standing start) unless I use the tape lift--which I should not have to, but I am waiting for a new belt to do the thorough cleaning shown here--if I were you, I would try adjusting the the pinch roller tension as described above. That is most likely the problem.

Tried adjusting the pressure but doesn't make a difference. It seems to me it should be locking in the "up" position but it isn't. There are two solenoids in the lift mechanism but I'm not exactly sure how they are supposed to function. Does one lift and the other hold? Or? I'll take another look at the linkage and try to puzzle it out but any input would be greatly appreciated.
Jeff

Vulcan455
One of the solenoids is for play and the other is for pause. I always clean the shafts of these solenoids and the inside areas with a swab and alcohol when I have the pinch roller mechanism apart to clean and re-lube. You have to make sure they go back into the correct holes too! Likewise I pull the capstans and clean and oil them too while it's all apart. If you don't get all the old grease off those sliding parts of the pinch roller mechanism it can cause it to bind up and stop play.

Also, try holding up both tension arms by hand and have someone else hit the play button. If the tape plays OK that way then you will likely need to adjust the pots for the tension arms. There is a discussion about the arm adjustments somewhere on here, possibly in this same thread. Keep us posted.

Hi guys--great thread here.

I followed the howto and the machine operates perfectly except for one major issue--

10.5 inch reels do not play well in fwd (some what muffled) and when recording in FWD, the left channel seems to drop out or it is much lower volume than the right channel--about half. this shows up on VU as well as audibly. Rev record gives equal volume but sounds slightly muffled.

It records fine in both directions with 7" reels and plays them very well when they are recorded on my 4010S.

Now, when I got the unit, the reels would not turn as the left reel table was pinching the faceplate. I adjusted them using a 7" reel (did not have a 10.5 at the time) and I cannot remember if the reel size button was pushed in or not. that button is now broken--clicks but will not stay in. I suspect the Deoxit must have caused it to give out as the speed button gave out then as well. But I can hold the speed button in and it works.

so, here's the question;

what precisely does the reel size button do when activated (I cannot see anything happen) and could adjusting the reel tables with a 7" reel while in 10.5" mode cause 10.5" reels not to play/record correctly?

I have brand new reels, BTW,

TIA-

Robert

Hi guys--great thread here.


Now, when I got the unit, the reels would not turn as the left reel table was pinching the faceplate. I adjusted them using a 7" reel (did not have a 10.5 at the time) and I cannot remember if the reel size button was pushed in or not. that button is now broken--clicks but will not stay in. I suspect the Deoxit must have caused it to give out as the speed button gave out then as well. But I can hold the speed button in and it works.


Robert

When you say the left reel is pinching the faceplate, is the space between the hub closer to the face of the deck than the right hub? If you were to pull on it does it move outwards (it shouldn't)?

There are a couple of set screws that hold the turntable hub. It's possible that they could be loose or if the hub is tight, they could be loosened and the hub can be adjusted properly.

I have an X-700R and the left hub was doing pretty much what you describe. I actually found one of the set screws had been loosened to the point that it fell off.Once tightened back, no issues whatsover.

No, it is no longer piunching the faceplate--I moved it out using the set screws--but I am wondering if adjusting it using a 7 inch reel could have created the problem wherein it will not play 10.5 inch reels properly.

Any ideas on that?

When you say the left reel is pinching the faceplate, is the space between the hub closer to the face of the deck than the right hub? If you were to pull on it does it move outwards (it shouldn't)?

There are a couple of set screws that hold the turntable hub. It's possible that they could be loose or if the hub is tight, they could be loosened and the hub can be adjusted properly.

I have an X-700R and the left hub was doing pretty much what you describe. I actually found one of the set screws had been loosened to the point that it fell off.Once tightened back, no issues whatsover.