Re-Lamp Marantz, 2 steps forward/one back

[augustwest]

2 steps forward / one step back:

Yesterday I re-lamped the dial lights on my Marantz 2285. What a nightmare. What I thought might take twenty minutes, or so, took three hours. Apart from the screws that held the outer cover, every screw was frozen on. I had to use some rather un-orthidox methods to get them to budge, but now the "philips" slots on the screws are all rounded off and probably should be replaced with new screws.

With quite a struggle I got everything back in place and re-tighten down. I used the LED lamps, which were likely a little more difficult to get back in place because of their slightly awkward shape. They look beautiful when on. The color temperature looks to be a slight bit cooler than the standard replacement lamps and on the tuning & signal strenth meter there seems to be just a slight more of a hot spot, but if they never burn out it will be a big plus and worth the little extra cost & trouble installing. Overall I'd highly recommend them.

The other negative to all this was that the "stereo" indicator lamp, which worked fine before starting this project now doesn't work. I notice that it is a solider in light.

So my questions are this, what type and where can I get a replacement for the "stereo" indicator lamp? Any tips, or pointers to replacing this light? Can I buy this locally in Los Angeles, from a place that won't require a $20 min. order of other things I won't really need? The other questions being, where can I get replacement screws for the ones I beat up? Lastly, what is the best method in the future to deal with frozen on screws on vintage electronics?

thanks in advance for your input.

- augustwest

[rickon66]

AK member dwojo is the resident bulb expert. Great guy in all respects, he can probably help you out.

[markallen]

I second dgwojo as a good source of lamps.

I am somewhat mystified by your replacement of the 8v fuse type lamps with the LED lamps. Never heard of this type of changeout. I'd be interested to hear how you decided to do such a changeout, and where you got the appropriate LEDs. Was this modification from another thread here in AK? Did this involve reducing the voltage to the lamp strip?

When I first saw this post, I was sure the problems would regard the plastic housing for the lamps along the dial. In EVERY Marantz I've been in, this housing is deformed due to the heat of the lamps, which can complicate changing the lamps. The other problem is the screw tabs that hold the lamp holder strip in are ALWAYS broken (to one extent or another).

The LED modification would certainly avoid further lamp housing heat deformation.

[augustwest]

"I am somewhat mystified by your replacement of the 8v fuse type lamps with the LED lamps. Never heard of this type of changeout. I'd be interested to hear how you decided to do such a changeout, and where you got the appropriate LEDs. Was this modification from another thread here in AK? Did this involve reducing the voltage to the lamp strip?"


The LED lamps used are made by another AK member & sold via EBay. I decided to use them because they supposedly never burn out, and as far as I'm concerned is a very good thing. Also they don't generate any heat, which seems to be a problem with these units. There have been other threads on this and even a review of the LED lamps, which convinced me to used them.

I am lucky, the plastic lamp holder on my unit was not warped in any way. I think that prior to my buying it, this receiver was used very little. When I bought the unit all the lamps functioned, but as I used it some burnt out. I think the lamps that were in it were the originals, which may be why the screws were tight since they had never been removed.


- augustwest

[BULLWINKLE]

what was the cost of the led's? I've seen some on the 'bay at 5 or 6 bucks each.

[augustwest]

"what was the cost of the led's? I've seen some on the 'bay at 5 or 6 bucks each."


Originally they were priced at around $5 - $6 each, but he recently ran a sale on them and they were around $3 each, with $1, shipping. Shipping was prompt and they are everything they were claimed to be.

- augustwest

[subdermis2000]

The other negative to all this was that the "stereo" indicator lamp, which worked fine before starting this project now doesn't work.

I had exactly the same thing happen this week while working on my 2275. First it was only the AUX lamp and several of the fuse lamps. After I replaced the fuse lamps the STEREO indicator was gone as well.

I've looked/asked around for lamps and will probably hook up with dwojo if my last local source does not work out.

[augustwest]

The member who makes & sells the LED replacement lamps goes by < whsh93a >. His real name is Don.

Another AK member from Sydney, Australia tried these LED's before I did, and it was his generally positive review that made me decide to give these a try. Here is what he had to say:

"MatthewK
AK Member
Location: Sydney, Australia

LED lamps from eBay - I bought them
Hi all,

Thought I should share my experiences after purchasing a set of the LED fuse-lamp replacements that were recently offered on eBay and discussed here. First, to clarify, I have no relationship with the seller other than having bought lamps from him. I went for a complete replacement on my Marantz 2285B, which should have 8VAC 200mA lamps on the dial, and 8VAC 250mA lamps on the tuning indicators.

When they arrived I was a little dismayed - they looked a bit rough, being three yellow LEDs hand-soldered together in a rough fuse-lamp shape with a plastic shield on the back - they looked a little home-brew. I was also concerned to see no current-limiting resistor whatsoever. I checked it with the seller and he told me the voltage drop of the three was matched to the voltage supplied (not necessarily going to save them from burning out though), but I reasoned that the brief time that the AC was over the sum of the forward voltages means they are not on for much of the time.

I was also concerned about flicker - they would only be active for part of half the AC cycles since they were all oriented the same way. However the seller assured me they were super-bright and able to illuminate adequately, and that flicker wouldn't be a problem.

Well, he was 100% correct. I put the lamps in place of my existing lamps (wrong-rated 250mA replacements for what should be 200mA lamps). I oriented them so the LEDs pointed forward and tested it before I reassembled - the light was intense but I could see flicker. But when I put it back together, the light is even, bright and flicker-free.

I "spread" two of the triple-LED clusters to illuminate the tuning indicators more evenly - but managed to detach the solder joint on one before I did it correctly. I would rate it as very slightly more trouble than doing a standard fuse lamp replacement, but with a better outcome.

The end result is a slightly "colder" light - with incandescents there was a definite green tinge to the blue, but with the LEDs there is a hint of purple or violet. It's definitely different, and very pleasant to look at. If you were interested in an absolutely "stock" or "vintage" look, I'd put a bit of yellow cellophane between the lamps and the dial.

The reason you could do that is that they give off virtually no heat whatsoever. It's summer here in Australia and with the higher-rated incandescents, the front of the 2285B got too hot - almost too hot to touch, which worried me because of the effect on the components. With the LEDs it's room temperature, and I for one feel it was well worth it in terms of cutting down heat.

The seller was a pleasure to deal with, by the way - recommended. The price is a little on the high side, but given the hassle of tracking down parts and picking the right LEDs, I'd say this is worth it for all but the most dedicated DIY purist.

The pics show the pair for the tuning indicators (off then on), the front before and after replacement, and a shot from the side of the dial lamps before I swung them up to face the front."


-augustwest

[dgwojo]

Does your stereo lamp have red and white wires or is it white or blue bi-pin based?? I have them all and no $20 min, see the middle right picture on my web page, Dave. :yes:

Lamps (http://home.earthlink.net/~dwojo/index.html)

[augustwest]

"Does your stereo lamp have red and white wires or is it white or blue bi-pin based??"

I'll need to take the top off to take a look, I thought they were black? (I know the pointer ones are black) I will gladly order from you once I find out.

Any ideas on how to remove the stuck in screws, or were to get replacements?

- augustwest

[dgwojo]

"Does your stereo lamp have red and white wires or is it white or blue bi-pin based??"

I'll need to take the top off to take a look, I thought they were black? (I know the pointer ones are black) I will gladly order from you once I find out.

Any ideas on how to remove the stuck in screws, or were to get replacements?

- augustwest
Stuck screws, ouch, you might have to drill them out, not fun, keep a vaccuum on to get the drilling metal waste out of the circuitry, maybe others have a better solution like heat, Dave. :scratch2:

[alexkerhead]

First try cutting a slit into the screw with a dremel tool($20 at radioshack) and then use a flat head screw driver to get the screw out.
If that doesn't work(it should though), try this.
Use a pair of good wire cutters and cut into the left and right side of the screw evenly and twist enough to where you can use needle nose pliars to get them all the way out.
Next time, don't tighten them much, just finger tight will work. Honkering down on them is a good way to strip the threads out of the chasis.
Never drill out on something with circuitry, you can always touch up chipped paint or veneer, but replacing circuit parts is a LOT more difficult than touch up paint. :thmbsp:

[augustwest]

"First try cutting a slit into the screw with a dremel tool($20 at radioshack) and then use a flat head screw driver to get the screw out."

In one instance I did do this, and it worked well. In a couple of other spots the screw head was too close to wires to do this.

"Next time, don't tighten them much, just finger tight will work. Honkering down on them is a good way to strip the threads out of the chasis."

I didn't tighten them to begin with, this is how they were from the factory. The lights had never been changed on this receiver before. Which is likely why the plastic lamp housing is not warped, since it had the original bulbs in it.

I would like to find a good source for some replacement screws, to replace the one that are now all rounded off.

"try this.
Use a pair of good wire cutters and cut into the left and right side of the screw evenly and twist enough to where you can use needle nose pliars to get them all the way out."

I'll give this technique a try next time.

- augustwest

[Thoner]

I know this is a old thread, but I have been looking to replace lights on a few of my Recievers I finally have some time to repair. 2238, 2238B, 2230, 4270, and 2220B.

On LED questions here I found this site that I find very interesting on the subject of making your own LED lights for your Marantz.:D

The site: [URL="http://www.irebuildmarantz.com"]

LED LINK: http://www.irebuildmarantz.com/leds/lamps.html

[Title17]

I have a set of whsh93a's fuselamps in my 2275, for the time they work out rather well since this unit has had a ton of problems with the deformed lamp holder, someone had too high value lamps in it once and it really hurt the entire unit.

now my 2285b, nothing but original lamps for it, they just look the best IMO.

[AudioPuppet]

Hey Guys..........Don's Led's are unequaled . He has found just the right value
I have seen some Led's that are just way off base , too bright . If your going to make them yourself it will probably be trial and error till you find the proper illumination. As far as melted housing go. The earliest Marantz receivers all had metal housings. 2215 2230 etc. I have a few of these units and the craftmanship and quality of components is fantastic. and you can hear it in the sonics. If you ever get a chance to pick up a first series unit for cheap , even if it doesn't work the metal housings in them plus other parts can come in handy :thmbsp:

[whsh93a]

The "Stereo" lamp is polorized. Turn it around.

DH

2 steps forward / one step back:

Yesterday I re-lamped the dial lights on my Marantz 2285. What a nightmare. What I thought might take twenty minutes, or so, took three hours. Apart from the screws that held the outer cover, every screw was frozen on. I had to use some rather un-orthidox methods to get them to budge, but now the "philips" slots on the screws are all rounded off and probably should be replaced with new screws.

With quite a struggle I got everything back in place and re-tighten down. I used the LED lamps, which were likely a little more difficult to get back in place because of their slightly awkward shape. They look beautiful when on. The color temperature looks to be a slight bit cooler than the standard replacement lamps and on the tuning & signal strenth meter there seems to be just a slight more of a hot spot, but if they never burn out it will be a big plus and worth the little extra cost & trouble installing. Overall I'd highly recommend them.

The other negative to all this was that the "stereo" indicator lamp, which worked fine before starting this project now doesn't work. I notice that it is a solider in light.

So my questions are this, what type and where can I get a replacement for the "stereo" indicator lamp? Any tips, or pointers to replacing this light? Can I buy this locally in Los Angeles, from a place that won't require a $20 min. order of other things I won't really need? The other questions being, where can I get replacement screws for the ones I beat up? Lastly, what is the best method in the future to deal with frozen on screws on vintage electronics?

thanks in advance for your input.

- augustwest