Good Morning!

I took my one of my Dual 1219's out of storage and cleaned it up a bit. She starts ok automatically but at the end of the tracks it will not eject and return the arm the it's rest position. It was working fine when I put it away.

It still plays great! I may want to upgrade my Cartridge,using a Grado Black right now. Any Dual Tech's have any Ideas? :scratch2:

Thanks,
John. :music:

Most common problem on the 1219 with regard to moving the tonearm is the "guide white", which is a tiny rubber cap that couples the arm to other linkage in the mechanism. It is usually worn out and needing replacement. Check this link: Turntable Experts (http://www.turntableexperts.com/html/dual.html) It's a $5 part. Of course, the 1219 is a complicated instrument and the problem could be elsewhere, but this is the best thing to check first.

Wes

Most common problem on the 1219 with regard to moving the tonearm is the "guide white", which is a tiny rubber cap that couples the arm to other linkage in the mechanism. It is usually worn out and needing replacement. Check this link: Turntable Experts (http://www.turntableexperts.com/html/dual.html) It's a $5 part. Of course, the 1219 is a complicated instrument and the problem could be elsewhere, but this is the best thing to check first.

Wes

Thank you Very Much for the link! I will check out the TT this weekend. :banana:
Thanks,
Again.
John. :music: :music:

John, Here is a manual for the 1219 that you can download:
Dual 1219 (http://www.vinylengine.com/library_model.php?make=Dual&selected_model=1219) A service manual is available somewhere online for purchase. The "guide white" is a small piece and is easily missed... The best way to find it is to watch the mechanism operate from underneath when the tonearm reaches the end of the record. This part acts as a clutch between a small pin attached to the tonearm and the part that acts to move the tonearm. Sort of like a small rubber cap that fits on the end of the pin. If the "guide white" is worn out or missing, there will not be any friction to move the tonearm... it will slip instead of returning to the rest. Might be a good idea to order a spare too. I dropped one once and never found it! :nono:

Hope this helps.

Wes

Mine does the same even after replacing the clutch. I had been advised by No Transistors that the pawl needs to be cleaned of old grease and left dry. One of these days I will get around to it. I did dampen the underside of the chassis and inner surfaces of the base. Also set the base on 4 small Herbie's Tenderfeet as opposed to the worthless stock wooden nubs. Easy, cheap and worthwhile tweaks.

John, Here is a manual for the 1219 that you can download:
Dual 1219 (http://www.vinylengine.com/library_model.php?make=Dual&selected_model=1219) A service manual is available somewhere online for purchase. The "guide white" is a small piece and is easily missed... The best way to find it is to watch the mechanism operate from underneath when the tonearm reaches the end of the record. This part acts as a clutch between a small pin attached to the tonearm and the part that acts to move the tonearm. Sort of like a small rubber cap that fits on the end of the pin. If the "guide white" is worn out or missing, there will not be any friction to move the tonearm... it will slip instead of returning to the rest. Might be a good idea to order a spare too. I dropped one once and never found it! :nono:

Hope this helps.

Wes

Good Morning Wes,

The parts are on back order. I just got the email. :scratch2:
Thanks,
at least I know where to look, I have (2) 1219's maybe I can use the part from the other one that needs more work.
Later,
John.. :music: :music:

"Mine does the same even after replacing the clutch."

Un plug it, & push "Start". Manually rotate the table until the arm picks fully up. There needs to be about 1/8" or so of play up and down. If not, the cueing is binding & the arm won't move. Turn the knurled black collar on the cueing piston clockwise until you have that needed play. Bet it works now.

Check out the Dual-Reference site. There is a lot of good info and parts suppliers.

Good Morning,

I am bidding on another Dual 1219 ! It is here in AZ so it won't have to be shipped damaging it. This one is in the original box and all! Also works! Has no Base, but I do have two.
:thmbsp: I will post if I win!

Well I won the 1219! I am picking it up this morning in Phoenix.
In it's original box! :thmbsp:

Thanks,

John.. :music: :music:

Now you have two that need service!

Keep in mind, ANY 35 year old piece of mechanical equipment will need professional service. The chances of one working properly without it are

ZERO.

Now you have two that need service!

Keep in mind, ANY 35 year old piece of mechanical equipment will need professional service. The chances of one working properly without it are

ZERO.

Good Morning,

Now I have a total of 4 units (1219's) I got one yesterday as a parts unit for the other three I now have. The base is good and is for the last one I picked up in it's original box, no base. This one is beyond repair, the arm is bent at the piviot and does not move. I will work on these this weekend and post my results.

Thanks for all help,
John. :music: :music:

If I had to say the one thing that the 1219 and similar models suffer from, it would be that the lubricants harden. Pay particular attention to the speed selector assembly. This interfaces with the idler wheel arm assembly and can cause "startup" and torque problems.

The pawl is located on the cycling cam, and cannot be cleaned and relubed without pulling the cam. I normally service the turntable with it sitting upside down on a piece of cardboard duct about 4" in diameter.

The white guide (part #223777) goes bad. Also, the grommet in the single/multi mechanism hardens and falls off, causing the arm to have difficulty cleanly switching from single to multi -- with the consequence that the arm will bind horizontally.

There's a long lever assembly that at the one end functions as a cam follower, and at the other end goes to the motor switch and idler arm. This will sometimes get sticky.

Hope this is useful to you.

Fred Longworth

Mine does the same even after replacing the clutch. I had been advised by No Transistors that the pawl needs to be cleaned of old grease and left dry. One of these days I will get around to it. I did dampen the underside of the chassis and inner surfaces of the base. Also set the base on 4 small Herbie's Tenderfeet as opposed to the worthless stock wooden nubs. Easy, cheap and worthwhile tweaks.

I recently put 4 small Herbie's tenderfeet on my 1229. I was very surprised to
find that all 4 factory feet are different heights! I have to trim one down,
while one is 1/4" above the shelf it sits on. I guess it never was level!

If I had to say the one thing that the 1219 and similar models suffer from, it would be that the lubricants harden. Pay particular attention to the speed selector assembly. This interfaces with the idler wheel arm assembly and can cause "startup" and torque problems.

The pawl is located on the cycling cam, and cannot be cleaned and relubed without pulling the cam. I normally service the turntable with it sitting upside down on a piece of cardboard duct about 4" in diameter.

The white guide (part #223777) goes bad. Also, the grommet in the single/multi mechanism hardens and falls off, causing the arm to have difficulty cleanly switching from single to multi -- with the consequence that the arm will bind horizontally.

There's a long lever assembly that at the one end functions as a cam follower, and at the other end goes to the motor switch and idler arm. This will sometimes get sticky.

Hope this is useful to you.

Fred Longworth

Thanks Fred,

I will get into the unit this weekend and see the problem.
You Know your stuff,
Thanks again,
John. :music:

UPDATE: The Dual 1219 I picked up in Phoenix works great, I put it in a base and swapped platters with my original one which I polished up.
Project done. :thmbsp:

Thanks,
John.. :music: