View Full Version : *Noob Alert*: Marantz SR6000 DC


Kellan
09-17-2006, 04:25 PM
I did do a couple hours of searching google and on here, but didn't yeild many results aside from buying service/owners manuals and a picture of the unit.
So, sorry about the thread. :stupid:

I just recently inherited a Marantz SR6000 DC from my father and he told me it hadn't been working for a while. I remember it working, but at that point I was too young to care.
I tried hooking it up earlier. It's 110v with a seperate ground from the plug. I looped a ground wire on the ground clamp on the reciever and then grounded the other end of the wire between a metal screw and plate, where the outlet was. I blew the fuse, probably a poor grounding choice or something. Suggestions on how I should ground it?
The lamps lit up for a split second while the fuse popped, but I heard it and knew it blew. It's a 5 amp 250v fuse.

Anyway, once I hook it up I'll find out if there are any internal electrical problems. I'd imagine I'll probably have to clean the pots and some typical maintainence to it as it hasn't been used for a good, 15 years now I'd imagine.
I guess I'm asking if there are any particularly recurring problems with these or similar models of this era that are well-known about?
Any input you guys can give me would be much appreciated.
Thanks a lot.

mikey3117
09-17-2006, 06:43 PM
Did you attach a wire to the ground screw on the back of the receiver? That's for a turntable!

SB Marantz
09-18-2006, 06:34 AM
I don't quit understand your method of grounding :nono:

The answer to the blown fuse is simple; short circuit.

My guess is that the SR-6000 uses a STK module's in the power stage.
I think that one is broken.
Allso check out the drivers,emitter resistors and so on......

Kellan
09-18-2006, 05:52 PM
Well, I'm admittedly a car audio guy, and am just now getting into this.

I assumed that the DC part of "SR6000 DC" was direct current, hence the amplifier, hence the need to be grounded, although it was being plugged into alternating current to begin with. That didn't really make any sense to me but I just tried it anyway.

So.
After trying a few more fuses, they still keep popping.
I haven't "grounded" the thing anymore, dont' worry.

I honestly have no idea what to look for when it comes to broken/burnt out electrical parts aside from fuses and loose wires/short circuits.
I'd imagine I'll eventually take the thing to a repair shop. Who knows.
Would it even be worth it?

Anyway, I took a few pictures:

Front of it

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/Kellan707/reciever1.jpg


Here's the back, where I "grounded" the thing is circled in red

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/Kellan707/reciever2.jpg


Here's a rather sad shot of the guts.
Anywhere I should look at in particular?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/Kellan707/reciever3.jpg

Thanks for going easy on me.
I obviously have a long way to go as far as getting knowledgable with this ball-game. :tears:

Kellan
09-18-2006, 06:05 PM
Another question.

It has 4 channels, apparently, and 2 "systems" with 2 channels each.
Up there where it says:
System 1: 4~16 ohms
System 2: 4~16 ohms
Systems 1 and 2: 8~16 ohms

Are they talking about:
When you're using all 4 channels simultaneously, the given impedance on one particular channel can only be 8 ohms lowest impedance (probably for heat issues?)?
Or are this bridgable power they're refering to?

SB Marantz
09-18-2006, 07:17 PM
When you use system one, so just 2 speakers the minimum nominal impedance of these speakers used may be 4 Ohm's

When you are using 4 speakers at the same time.so system 1 + 2 then the minimum impedance must be 8 Ohms or higher.

This is written on almost any amplifier as a warning because if you use 4 speakers / 4 Ohm's at the same time the amplifier, the amplifier wil ''see'' it as a 2 Ohm load nominal and that is pretty heavy for a amplifier although there are that can handle such a load.

SB Marantz
09-18-2006, 07:20 PM
The 2 ''block'' type thing's mounted on the heatsink are the STK power modules.

I think that one of them has gone south....

the 2 white smaller ''block's'' wich are placed as a pair, so 4 in total are the emitter resistor's , value is around 0,33 Ohm/3 or 5 Watt's

Urizen
09-18-2006, 07:47 PM
One of my first "vintage" receivers was a Marantz SR 7000G, a Euro model. I bought if for 10 bucks at a yard sale, in non-working condition. It would power up, but no sound from either channel. Replace that fuse, clean her up well, DeOxit the controls, and you may be good to go.

This one may have sentimental value to you, and as such, if more is wrong you may want to get it fixed. I do remember one thing about the SR 7000G. It didn't sound as good as the older Marantz. These are from the Philips era of production, when build quality began to slip. If it is not really important to you, I wouldn't sink to much money into it, IMHO.

Good luck and welcome aboard!

Regards,

Ken

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k199/Urizen_2006/SR7000G1.jpg

ToTo Man
09-19-2006, 06:19 AM
I had a SR6000G and have a SR6000DC. IMO the DC was far superior to the G in terms of sound, so I kept the DC and sold the G. But that was before I knew about the ill effects offset and bias had on sound quality so perhaps my comparison wasn't fair. Anyway, the SR6000DC is the centerpiece in my bedroom system and I like it, so I'd say it's worth getting it fixed. I have no experience with earlier Marantzes so I couldn't comment on them.