That doesn't change how I'd do things. Actually, with Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Chromecast's, streaming and NAS's there's no need to run any long cables/wires of any type for whole house installs.
It's just general engineering philosophy / practice to keep the higher impedance stuff short. But it probably doesn't matter. It doesn't in my case. Not everything in audio is a corner case. Enjoy.
Glad to have you aboard. My setup requires long RCA's cuz there's only one antenna downlead and the receiver it's connected to feeds several other receivers throughout the house.Agreed, but I also think it's an interesting question from a theoretical standpoint. And one I hadn't seen before, being relatively new here.
I have experience providing audio for 3 children and a wife, none of whom want to watch or hear the same thing. That's why I favor a modest system with Wi-Fi for every location. IME there is rarely if ever any need to be able to hear exactly the same source everywhere in a house.
BTW: Since I find it necessary to have a PC in every location I favor CAT-7 cable for all PC connections. A USB DAC connects each PC to each "modest" system.
Why does Audio Research suggest I plug my Amps directly in the wall and no power conditioner?12' probably okay - provided all electronics on the same A/C circuit.
Why does Audio Research suggest I plug my Amps directly in the wall and no power conditioner?
Every amplifier has a "power conditioner" -- it's the power supply. A good external power conditioner is fine -- and might even limit incoming noise, if the amplifier's power supply is poorly shielded -- but poor-quality power conditioners make things worse: they can limit the current to the amplifier and cause noise and electrical interference rather than reducing it.Why does Audio Research suggest I plug my Amps directly in the wall and no power conditioner?
I would totally agree in the case of phono cartridge to phono pre. Signal pressure can be an important factor when discussing wire length.It's just general engineering philosophy / practice to keep the higher impedance stuff short. But it probably doesn't matter. It doesn't in my case. Not everything in audio is a corner case. Enjoy.
The concern is that the power conditioner might be current limiting. If that were my amp, I personally would still use a power condition. It will draw some watts...but not that much.Why does Audio Research suggest I plug my Amps directly in the wall and no power conditioner?
Given a whole-house hard-wired setup, it's pretty easy to configure things for multiple sources to multiple rooms (matrixing) or, as in your case, separate single sources to separate single rooms (zones). You place a network switch close to a matrix amp (see Niles or SpeakerCraft 12 or 16 zone units) then tie in networkable DACs (such as Apple AirPorts, AppleTVs, or the like) from the network switch whence the digital datastream to the amps RCA inputs. Each kid/wife "owns" their own DAC which appears everywhere on your wifi/wired network. Kid/wife simply throws music from whatever source to the DAC via AirPlay, the matrix switches it, amplifies it, and outputs it over those LONG, LONG speaker wires. You also net the matrix map directly to the switch so you can configure everything, set volume limits, password protect the setup, etc. And all (mostly, except from kid/wife gizmo to nearest hardwired WAP) hardwired.
Why does Audio Research suggest I plug my Amps directly in the wall and no power conditioner?
This is a common sense view, and I assumed it to be true.Amp to speaker is a higher level connection than pre to amp, so I would vote that you leave the amp where it is and make up some longer speaker cables.
They all knew it defied common sense, but their opinions were based on experience and measurements.