neevo
Super Member
I've been on the lookout for a chassis to mount my Little Bear T10 phono preamp in so its a little more aesthetically pleasing and matches the quality of my Kenwood KA-7100. Whilst trawling the auction site the other day I came across this:
In addition to mounting the T10 in the chassis, I'm also taking the opportunity to do some "mods" and keen top post them up here to ensure I am doing it right/safely.
I am replacing the on/off switch with an illuminated LED round push button. I've used these before and they look quality and I have managed to get a 240v switch with a 12v LED. In order to run the 12v LED I have purchased a LED ballast and plan on mounting that near the transformer to run the 12v for the LED. In order to isolate the power from any audio signal I have purchased some Alu mesh so I can run all the wires in between the chassis and this mesh. I assume that should be enough to try and stop any stray signals getting into the audio path?
I wanted to have the tubes out the top of the chassis as per the original plastic box, however this was going to be difficult as I needed to mount the PCB on the bottom of the chassis (to create clearance for the power button on the front), which meant the tubes would not really protrude out the top. The fix? I have bought some tube sockets and plan on mounting the tubes directly on top of the chassis and have them completely visible. The plan was to desolder the original sockets and run wires up to the new ones.
Questions:
1. What gauge wire should I use to solder in to the PCB to run up to the tube sockets?
2. Should I twist any of these wires together? (I have 3x 9 pin sockets and 1x 7 pin socket - rectifier)
3. What options do I have to be able to disconnect the sockets from the PCB so I can take the lid off?
I have taken the T10 out of the audio setup for the moment so I can start on drilling holes and work on getting it all together. Appreciate anyones help/knowledge to guide me along the way.
In addition to mounting the T10 in the chassis, I'm also taking the opportunity to do some "mods" and keen top post them up here to ensure I am doing it right/safely.
I am replacing the on/off switch with an illuminated LED round push button. I've used these before and they look quality and I have managed to get a 240v switch with a 12v LED. In order to run the 12v LED I have purchased a LED ballast and plan on mounting that near the transformer to run the 12v for the LED. In order to isolate the power from any audio signal I have purchased some Alu mesh so I can run all the wires in between the chassis and this mesh. I assume that should be enough to try and stop any stray signals getting into the audio path?
I wanted to have the tubes out the top of the chassis as per the original plastic box, however this was going to be difficult as I needed to mount the PCB on the bottom of the chassis (to create clearance for the power button on the front), which meant the tubes would not really protrude out the top. The fix? I have bought some tube sockets and plan on mounting the tubes directly on top of the chassis and have them completely visible. The plan was to desolder the original sockets and run wires up to the new ones.
Questions:
1. What gauge wire should I use to solder in to the PCB to run up to the tube sockets?
2. Should I twist any of these wires together? (I have 3x 9 pin sockets and 1x 7 pin socket - rectifier)
3. What options do I have to be able to disconnect the sockets from the PCB so I can take the lid off?
I have taken the T10 out of the audio setup for the moment so I can start on drilling holes and work on getting it all together. Appreciate anyones help/knowledge to guide me along the way.