Recent content by jheu02

I forget which one, but IIRC, there's also a button you have to push on the EQ to hear it through the Tape loop while listening to your source.

Just make sure you inset the new in the correct pin sequence.

Are you sure it isn’t an MPS9630? Searching C9630 leads nowhere but Scott amps made in Korea (which I restored one…A-436). It had MPs 9630s Depending on use and pinout (twisting leads) you may be able to use KSC1815 or KSC1845 (if you don’t need the 100mA current capability.

Yes, I think we all try to do something similar when we can to avoid stressing the lead/body junction. Unfortunately, there’s some instances where that just can’t be avoided. But, something to keep in mind for the future….small caps, let em fly vs bending to sit flush.

Yes. Multiturn Bournes.

And the A-402 board for comparison. This is just the L channel and it is post rebuild...

No Claudia IPA at Black Lab today, so trying their Hazy...Undertone.

During walkabout in Barcelona...

Nice try, and thanks for playing.:D. The 730 was one step under the TOTL 930 Receiver. The A-402 was the TOTL integrated amp (no tuner). So....which was the more refined? :dunno:. As long as it sounds good and works properly, it doesn't really matter now does it?

Oh. That WASNT the case in the 2 A-402s I’ve rebuilt, which supposedly have about the same amp boards.

You should pull and test the components around it to try and find out WHY is burned…what’s drawing the high current? I’d start by testing in circuit, making comparisons to the identical part on the other channel. Even if the value is off from the code markings, if they’re equal side to side...

Why did you move it next to the heat sink? I don’t think it was originally. The bias adjusting transistor is IIRC the 2sc853 in its own wraparound heatsink that is then bolted to the metal sink the drivers are attached to.

You have the Service Manual or can read/measure the value off the trimmer? Look for 1/2 W replacements.

@gadget73 Not saying you might not have to use lyrics due to the cramped board, but here’s the pertinent info from the data sheet of the R82 series films. Lead length is PLENTY long to bridge traces when needed.

IF you can keep the transformer and any slugged coils dry, sudsing the boards and other components with a paintbrush and Simple Green, then rinse with water/distilled water, then bake in a low oven (<80 C , 175 F) for an hour or two, or place in strong sun to dry. Use compressed air first to...