Recent content by tonefoto

Nope to both, I'm resoldering a couple of traces that may've lifted on a couple capacitor legs. Changing the fuse to be sure and will report back. Somebody before me got to this 2325 and did some pretty bad work. A lot of solder bridges, and jumpered traces on boards.

Been working through the many issues on this Marantz 2325. After sorting through problems on one of the amp boards, I'm having a problem with the P800 board. I'm not seeing any voltage at pins 804 and 805 when I should be seeing 35VDC. The relay is clicking, just no voltage at the two pins. I...

I seem to be having a very similar problem with a 2325 that was on my bench to recap. I'm going to look at the PH01 board and see if that can remedy the similar complaint.

I just noticed that my phase inverter tubes are 6U8 and not 6BL8 like the schematic shows. Would this be a problem with voltages being off?

I tested the phono section, (before recapping), and it sounded pretty thin, very little bass compared to the Extra input with CD player. I put some Telefunkens in that position as well as the preamp. Tested phono with those 12AX7s and some good JJs but no change. I hope this gets improvement...

OK, I did remove a similar wire attached to the auxillary and fuse holder on a Sherwood S-5500 II I rebuilt a few months back. Sounds dumb but how and where would I measure current draw before and after I install the CL80 to confirm I'm getting a drop in voltage?

Do you think a CL80 could attach where the gray wire is coming from the auxilary to the fuse holder, just replace that gray wire with the CL-80?

Is there any need to install a CL-80 since it has a rectifier tube already, and if so where exactly does it connect? I am guessing it may be tied between the primary wire that attaches to the fuse or the auxilary plug receptacle.

OK, good to know. I ordered a kit for the 222B from Hayseed Hamfest, hopefully that can will be insulated.

I went ahead and switched the 6U8s and replaced with NOS RCA black plate. That didn't help it. I didn't check to see if that Bias can heats up, could be one of those sections. I cleaned the sockets, switches and pots with Deoxit and Faderlube.

I cleaned all sockets and tensioned them as well as possible. Switched the power tubes from left to right side but still has the startup crackle. Could this be the on/off volume switch acting up? I was wondering what voltage that large orange .01uf deathcap is? What do you think I should...

makes sense, thanks

Thank you for this link on the crackling problem. Mine is making that crackling sound on startup only on left channel, not right. It too has a lengthy startup time. I noticed if I changed the 12AX7 I got a change in the noise problem, not an elimination. I'm going to start by cleaning all...

I'm sorry, I'm not familiar with tie points on output tube pins

Thanks Dave, I'll clean and retention the sockets and give it a try. Can the 222B use 7189s?