KR-9600 Restoration Info

Seems some of these relays have issues with noise. I've run into one that buzzed. I just replaced it with one that didn't. I bench tested the rest of my stock (and you can do this as well before you install to save the trouble of removing it later) and the only noisy one was the one I already found.

There's nothing to prevent you from using any 120V relay that you choose, as long as coil current is nice and low, and the relay contact rating is as high as possible (I'd want at least 20~25A). I will not be buying any more of the Magnacraft relays, but I've not yet sourced a replacement (the Zettler relay linked at Amazon looks like an OK replacement, but I'm sure there are dozens of possible choices).

FWIW I ordered a couple of the American Zettler AZ2280-1A-120AF, tested each, and both were dead silent. They use all the same size terminals as the Magnecraft part and have the exact same dimensions.
 
Well, the only issue I see is that the contact lugs are so close together that the big Quencharc device might be tricky to connect.
 
Hey Guys,

Got a couple of things I would like some clarification/double check if you will as i'm into this restoration project myself. Couple questions on the amp section and I didn't want to start a new thread on an old topic. So i'll post here.

1. The tantalums. I was going to order the 667-ECQ-V1H225JL from mouser, but there is a 14wk wait. I decided to order the ECW-F2155JA per this forum from digikey. They are the 1.5uf 250V ones. I just wanted to double check to see if that is acceptable? The tantalums were 16V, these being 250V seem a bit excessive that's why I wanted to double check. The link to Glenn's suggestion was the ECW-F2105JA 1.0uf version. A slight descripency.. I just want to make sure this is acceptable before throwing the switch.

2. I also decided to upgrade the transistors on this board as well. Should get them after the holiday. But I also need a clarification on this. Are the pin outs mentioned above with the flat side of the transistor facing you (round side to the back)? It was mentioned that CBE is the ztx694B, orig is 2sc1345 ECB? I looked up both, with the round to the back the 1345 is correct per it's data sheet at ECB, center coll, base on the right. But the ztx has it EBC per its data sheet c being on the right with round side being the back of the transistor. But up above it's mentioned that it's CBE?

Just wanted to double check on these things. I appreciate the help. Thank you.
 
1. Mouser has nearly 4500 of the 2.2uf caps in stock. If an order exceeds that amount, the wait is 14 weeks. Perhaps that is what you're looking at on the product page. These caps are a lot easier to deal with than the big 250V caps. Either will work, but the small 2.2uf caps are the preferred choice here.

2. The Zetex transistors have part numbers marked only on one side...the slightly rounded side. With this side facing you, the pinout is CBE (left to right). Download the data sheet and look.
 
That's what I was looking at. I got the 1.5uf 250V jobs in the mail and had installed them, but they seem very excessive. I did end up buying the ones you recommended from mouser after taking a 2nd look at it. I've been ordering parts mostly through digikey. So it was a oversight on my part. I will remove those 250V and install the 2.2's.

As far as the transistors.. after taking a closer look at the amp boards themselves once I had them out of the receiver, it makes sense now.

Thanks.
 
I haven't been on here in a while. But I did get my unit restored. Was recapped, I did the power switch mod, amp boards, heatsinks for the power regulator board, and LED lighting.I posted a video to youtube on it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wumsfhVZ2_Y

Again, I appreciate this site and the people on it for helping me. Looks and sounds amazing. I actually got another unit in that i'm messing with now..
 
Archvile,

A few comments for you after having watched your video...

It's nice to know that someone has made good use of the information here and it's always especially a pleasure to know it may have helped someone bring another 9600 back into service.

After learning what you spent on the LED lighting I felt bad. I guess I should further document how that can be done to save a bit of money.

The horror story with the ebay shipping is consistent with experiences I've had, with a 9600 in fact.

The part of the circuit board you warn about lifting are usually referred to as solder pads.

Cheers
 
The photos have been restored to the thread. Imageshack tried to take them hostage, but I had backup.
 
John - great thread, been referring to it a lot lately recapping the 9060-

You didn't mention anything about the tone control board - Ci3&4 are 3.3uf 16V tantalums, which I understand suck for audio. I have on hand 3.3uf 50V electrolytics in UKL and UKW - would these be preferable to the tantalums, and if so which would you use? Thanks.
 
I have on hand 3.3uf 50V electrolytics in UKL and UKW - would these be preferable to the tantalums, and if so which would you use? Thanks.

First choice would be a Wima MKS2 MKS2B043301H00KSSD if they fit and if you're willing pay up for them, otherwise I'd use the KL.

FYI, back when I did this I used KTs in many places I would use KLs or Wimas today. I've learned tons since then.
 
Thanks John - I'll use the KLs.


This is the last board and the last 2 caps - man, these things have a bazillion of them!
 
This is the last board and the last 2 caps - man, these things have a bazillion of them!
They're certainly a load of caps, but the project is very rewarding. I just redid the dial lamps in mine yesterday using incandescents. Nice looking unit, if I do say so.

JlfK378.jpg
 
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They're certainly a load of caps, but the project is very rewarding. I just redid the dial lamps in mine yesterday using incandescents. Nice looking unit, if I do say so.

JlfK378.jpg
Hello all,
I've been reading posts old and not so old about the 9600. Ours is getting a bit of static in the left channel (which subsequently sent one of my Kef's out to Kef USA for service) and I'm wondering if there is a reputable shop or person to have a look at it for perhaps a thorough recap as well? I'd love to do it, but I really don't have the time. Or, has someone kitted a recap kit together for purchase? Meanwhile the the KR-2600 sounds fine. Thanks for the help!
 
I'd warn that the 9600 is a massive project for a full recap, and likely beyond the abilities of many so-called 'professional' electronics repair shops. Probably one of the most difficult receivers I can recall.
 
I'd warn that the 9600 is a massive project for a full recap, and likely beyond the abilities of many so-called 'professional' electronics repair shops. Probably one of the most difficult receivers I can recall.
Ok, thanks. I'll sit on the 9600 until the proper opportunity arrives. How about the 9400? I've got one of those too. Is a recap on that any better than the 9600 as far as time and talent?
 
Yeah, seems a bit less going on inside the 9400 as compared to the 9600. Digi Key seems to have a fair selection. Best to procure the factory wiring diagrams as a reference as to what Kenwood had designed. I'll tip my toe in with the wiring diagrams and educate myself with it...
 
I'm working a KR9600 now , on the power supply board x00-1830-10 would replacing all the 2SA733 and 2SC945 with the Fairchild equivalent (KSA733,KSC945) be advisable ? I thought it was mention in one tread but I can't find it now .
 
The 2SA945 and 2SA733 aren't prone to fail, but it won't hurt anything to replace them with the Fairchild equivalents. Just be sure to get the KSA733C and KSC945C (the C suffix indicates center collector parts) so that your getting the same pinouts as the originals.
 
Thanks , I have the KSC945CLTA , KSA733CLTA , the pinouts are EBC . I think I'll stay with the originals.

I worked on this unit years ago. I have more experience now so I'm tweaking things . FYI, I have a BB OPA2132P(and socket) @ IC6 on the tuner board with no coupling caps . I remembering it making a big difference in the FM sound . It suggested by EW I believe.
 
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