Struts: Monroe vs. KYB

[Wildcat]

So both of our rides are '09s, and they are both at the point of needing new struts. Hers is noisy. Mine was...OK, but the left rear had a slight leak. Well, after going down a couple of unpaved roads through two national parks during the past two weeks, I totally trashed my rear struts. The left rear strut now leaves a 4" circle of oil on the driveway. It's also skipping around bumpy corners, another sign they're shot.

Monroe sells Quick-Struts, which are their OESpectrum struts already mounted with a new spring. I've read both good and bad. (And typical of Internet forums, many of the "complaints" are from those who have never owned them.) I put OESpectrums into the rear of our TL a few years back and they worked well. One complaint about the Quick-Struts is that they were extended a bit more than the stock units, and were a little trouble to mount. I priced out the Quick-Struts vs. the bare strut, and once I buy all the new mounting hardware, the Quick-Struts actually work out to a better value, and include a brand new spring.

KYB is the one brand everyone seems to recommend, yet they only have the rears available as an assembled unit. (The fronts are "forthcoming"--they have part numbers, but no stock available as of yet.) They also cost a bit more.

Curious if anyone has had experience with both brands and could compare if one is better than the other or at the very least, confirm if their Monroe struts or shocks have lasted. Monroe is a "local" company as well, and I believe the OESpectrum struts are still made in the US. (Their cheaper line is made in China, I believe.)

I'm not going anywhere near the chinese off-brand trash that are available out there. Online forums I've checked have mentioned they often fail within a year. Other brands don't have any fitment for my vehicle, so they're out of consideration. It's pretty much KYB vs. Monroe at this point.

 

[quaddriver]

with the proper tool (strut spring compressor) or even a spring compressor, using the SHOCK cartridge of your choice is not an issue. the strut is simply an all in 1 assembly that makes it load bearing and damping.

that being said, the moog problem solvers or monroe quickies are often easy because they have every part, including the upper bearing as 1.

5 bolts plus the tie rod - how hard can it be

on cars without special spring rate setups 1 brand is as good as another as long as it isnt gabriel.

check out rock auto, then get the part number and search amazon and play them off for price.

you *will* require an alignment on the front and *may* require one on the rear, so be sure to factor that cost in (typically $100 if you can find someone that still does them)

I have installed these countless times on countless makes. a lift is essential and the proper tie rod end removal tools not otherwise called 'big freaking hammer' are a must.

you dont say what the patient is...list it and I will give you my recommendations if you desire..

 

[Wildcat]

Rock Auto has had the lowest price of everyone I've checked, at least as of a couple of weeks ago. I have to start over and search again.

As for the replacing, and the kits...it's not my first rodeo here.

I mainly just want opinions re: Monroe vs. KYB. Gabriel, Moog, etc. do not sell what I need. And the dealer has 'em, of course, at double the cost of everyone else.

 

[SoCal Sam]

My experience is with Ford Crown Victoria. KYB is suppose to be an upgrade over Motorcraft but it is not. The shocks are identically constructed down to the warning plate welded to the cylinder. Closer comparison shows shoddy welds at the mounts. Motorcraft welds are a seamless bead. Much nicer. Makes me think KYB slapped a pretty sticker on factory seconds and sold them at a premium. The Crown Vic forum I visit has many reports of premature gas loss. I personally have had one go bad and I know another owner who had the same experience. IME, KYB was a mistake. Don't know too much about Monroe heavy duty. I have seen them on police vehicles so the fleet guys must like them. They are twin tube. Not sure if that is better than mono-tube but I prefer a stiffer ride that is handling oriented.

 

[Quadman2]

Always been a KYB fan.

Applied mostly in muscle cars. They were long lasting and great in the corners. They held up well, although could be on the stiff side.

For what it's worth.

Q

 

[skippy_ps]

This is pretty much like asking what engine oil you should use.

Suffered with Monroe shocks on the '00 Mountaineer for a few years and finally switched to KYB. The Monroes were way too stiff on compression making for a constant bouncy ride. On uneven pavement, I was getting lots of head-toss which is really tiresome. None of that with KYB; wish I would have switched way sooner.

Proof:

 

[usedto]

the proper tie rod end removal tools not otherwise called 'big freaking hammer' are a must.
.

Actually, the two big freakin hammer method is the easiest, and doesn't damage the tie rod end or the boot if you plan on re-using them.

 

[beat_truck]

I've never used KYBs, but have used Monroe shocks/struts and have been very satisfied with them. Then again, I was also satisfied with the cheapo Ebay no-name "Sensen" brand struts that I put on one of my vehicles. I agree with quaddriver, though. The only shocks that I ever used that I thought were complete crap were Gabriels. The new ones seemed to perform worse than the old worn out ones that they replaced.

 

[gadget73]

My experience with all of those has been "it depends". I don't like the KYB Gas-A-Justs on the back of my Mark VII, they're too stiff. The KYB GR-2 on the front are too soft. The KYB ExcelG on the back of the Continental are great. The KYB GR2 I had on the front of the Towncar are also fine. The GR2's I had on the back of it had poorly fitting hardware that flopped around in the rear axle so I'd rate them not so good. The Conti has some unknown Gabriel on the front that came with it, they're 10+ years old and seem to be just fine. I had a pair of Gabriel air shocks on the back of the Towncar that wore out very quickly. I had Monroes on there that rode like a dump truck. Can't recall if its Gabriel or Monroe on the truck, but they're way too soft.

So basically all shocks are Oz, the great and terrible.

If you want it to ride exactly like it did from the factory, buy OEM shocks. Thats the only sure-fire way to get factory valving.

 

[quaddriver]

If you want it to ride exactly like it did from the factory, buy OEM shocks. Thats the only sure-fire way to get factory valving.

monroe it is! (you can buy them painted blue with ac delco on the side, but ac delco (or motorcraft or mopar) was not on it from the dealer...

like spring rates, unless you are designing something one off and understand how it works together, off the shelf works best. still dont know what the patient is, or did I miss one?

 

[Wildcat]

I was leaning towards the KYBs but it's kind of working out to be the Monroes, based on available stock everywhere. For some reason, supplies of the KYBs seem to be limited, and then I have to get a grab bag of miscellaneous parts from others to replace the bearings/mounts/bellows, and even then I'm still not certain I'm getting everything I need. KYB has part numbers assigned to their Strut-Plus packages (complete units with springs and all hardware), but the fronts are not available yet, and only one of the two rears is available; the other is on national backorder, and I can't wait for the stock situation to correct itself.

I myself would go for the Quick Strut you get a new bearing plate and spring both those parts do wear out.

That is part of the problem in our other car: the mounts have gotten noisy, in addition to the struts being pretty much worn. I want to replace everything and start fresh, so I'm not tearing it down another time to replace hardware I should have taken care of the first time around.

 

[quaddriver]

then in that case, and since you nead an alignment anyways, Id do the lower balls as well and peek hard at the wheel bearing assembly.

 

[SoCal Sam]

then in that case, and since you nead an alignment anyways, Id do the lower balls as well and peek hard at the wheel bearing assembly.

While car is up and suspension apart, might as well look at the steering tie rod ends.

 

[gadget73]

monroe it is! (you can buy them painted blue with ac delco on the side, but ac delco (or motorcraft or mopar) was not on it from the dealer...

well, not necessarily. Even if they were the OEM, its not a sure bet that the aftermarket replacement part has identical valving to the original equipment part. Its fairly common for an aftermarket part to fit a bunch of models, where the OE part number might only officially fit one even if it physically fits multiples.


also, if you're doing ball joints and tie rod ends, inspect the control arm bushings, or consider a complete replacement arm if that makes sense for your vehicle.

 

[sKiZo]

Was just quoted $1000 for struts and shocks on a 2011 Transit Connect. For that kind of money, I can put up with a bit of thumping ...

 

[quaddriver]

well, not necessarily. Even if they were the OEM, its not a sure bet that the aftermarket replacement part has identical valving to the original equipment part. Its fairly common for an aftermarket part to fit a bunch of models, where the OE part number might only officially fit one even if it physically fits multiples.


also, if you're doing ball joints and tie rod ends, inspect the control arm bushings, or consider a complete replacement arm if that makes sense for your vehicle.

thats not what I meant, in todays multi vendor globalization, it is oft the case that the same factory/maker produces parts that are labelled in the oem box and painted the right color and the part can be from many vendors. brakes, tend to be the largest culprit, if you get a 'good' set (not like advance auto pepboys zone silver or gold) a brake pad that comes to a commercial shop (like mine) will be in a box with the bendix., raybestos, ac delco etc numbering on them Its a strange world.

but anyways, unless you buy a vehicle where it says 'this has xxxxx brakes and yyyyy shocks', then the vehicle is equipped with the bare minimum that meets - aftermarket shocks especially are ALWAYS an improvement and since the piston area is larger, the valving is never the same regardless. thats why I always tell people, unless the vehicle is modded (lowering/lifting, spring rates ride height etc, dont piss around with shocks. if you make the shock more aggressive on a stock sprung and rolled vehicle, you are just gonna ruin the shock faster

 

[Hajidub]

KYB's are the OEM replacement for my car, with that said, they're twice the price of Monroe quick struts and don't last as long.

 

[dosmalo]

Was just quoted $1000 for struts and shocks on a 2011 Transit Connect. For that kind of money, I can put up with a bit of thumping ...

 

[Djcoolray]

Blistiens with stock coils in the front and all Blistien in the back...

Just reduces the amount recoil....

 

[Hajidub]

View attachment 1259511

Not surprised. In the tech manual for my 2005 Honda Element to replace struts was labeled a 6.5hr job (rear required evap system removal and some other crap). 100 dollars an hour = $650 without parts.