McIntosh C20 - can and should I bring it back from the dead?

Measure the volume plate to get the proper height for the replacement glass.

Which bit? I assume not the plate around the volume pot as that’s not full height.

Everything that’s supporting the glass panel is there. Side panels, alu top/bottom rails etc. the thing that’s throwing me is the low serial number and inclusion of the dim switch.
 
The aluminum plate that goes over the volume shaft and 3 buttons is supposed to be the same height as the glass, see the other thread for some measurements
 
The aluminum plate that goes over the volume shaft and 3 buttons is supposed to be the same height as the glass, see the other thread for some measurements

Ah. Mine is only half there, I don’t have the bottom part that covers the buttons. The old glass on there though is 4 7/8”.
 
I put all the hardware together on the chassis to check it all went together properly and also measure the spacing on the pins of the glass channels to see if I could source some end panels.

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Pin spacing is 4.75” luckily which is the width that RR-ARTifacts has. I’ve sent them a note to see if they are in stock.

I’ve also found someone with a faceplate. So I’ve sent them a note too to make sure it is suitable and will fit.

My faceplate is totally black without the round clear sections. Looking under a light it looks like the round sections are slightly opaque, can someone confirm this is the case and the illuminated lines on the upper section come through ok?

Thinking about the side bulbs too. I see a few references to text on the front panel being “illuminated McIntosh” I wonder if these bulbs also help make the text on the panel glow a bit. Would also make sense why you can adjust the brightness of these bulbs?
 
Hello Neevo

you better take care about the electronic shape of the unit and after you can work on cosmetic problem (who are not a real problem in fact)

Refix it first , this is the most important in my point of view
 
Hello Neevo

you better take care about the electronic shape of the unit and after you can work on cosmetic problem (who are not a real problem in fact)

Refix it first , this is the most important in my point of view

I hear you and I was doing that. But I want to do all the soldering in the chassis and that means I need to get the chassis fixed up first.

I will do my best not to buy pretty parts before I get the amp working :(
 
Whilst I try and get my head around the electricals I’m forging ahead with stuff I can do myself with minimal budget. Tonight I set about unfreezing one of the low frequency trim pots on the rear as one was frozen solid.

I’d tried deoxit but it hadn’t budged it, so tonight I desoldered it and set about pulling it apart to see if I could address the issue:

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Managed to get it unstuck and popped the pins back together and had it soldered back in.

Next up I took to all the black panels with chemical stripper to get rid of the bodge paint job:

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The reality here is that there was obviously a reason they were all originally painted... rust. It’s good to get the crappy paint off but they’re going to need a lot of finishing work before they’re ready for paint again. A few parts will get sand blasted as it’s much easier and quicker. The others, like the panels will have to be painstakingly sanded and if required a light skin coat of body filler before painted in satin black.

The parts all stripped, washed and dried:

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The main top cover is pretty bad so will take a bit of time to get right.

I also managed to pop in to my local engineering store and picked up replacement grommets for the wire paths:

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After sandblasting use a good etching chromate primer. Use your filler on top of this.
Looking good so far.

BillWojo
 
Anyone know the font for the rear panel and top panel graphics?

I’m toying with the idea of learning how to screen print them myself :confused:

Also anyone have a photo/dimensions of the bottom panel? I’m looking to make some to have plated and also ensure I have something to attach the feet to.

Have had some responses from suppliers regarding parts too which is helpful. Incredible how many are on Audiokarma as a few mentioned this thread!

Looks like I have a lead on:

End frame pieces
Spare bolts (as mine on the top panel are not original)
Feet (McIntosh)
Front faceplate
Volume control
 
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I’m as deep down the rabbit hole as I think I’ll go at the moment. Struggling to find the artwork/fonts necessary to rebuild the rear panel graphics, so instead I have a new plan.

I also really want to get the rear panel plated with the rest of the chassis so it all matches. The rivets are all rusted on the back too, so they’ll need fixing up.

So with that in mind:

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The plan is to go to a print shop and get a high res scan of the rear panel. I can then rebuild the lettering in photoshop. It will also provide some letters to do the tube printing too.

Chassis is all ready for plating now. Just need to make a bottom for the preamp and have it all done together.
 
Wow! Creating this back panel is going to take some time. 600 dpi + 3x scale x 8 year old MacBook Pro = 7.5GB working file :eek:

Hopefully it works and if it does happy to pop it up here for those that are interested.

I’ve also worked out I have all the letters and numbers I need for the top panel.
 
Wow, this is a labor of love. :) Good luck and keep posting updates - it's quite fun to follow along with your progress.
 
I removed old connectors, then removed old print, then went to anodizing and stripped old anodizing, then, using stroke sander, removed all the scratches and bur from drilling old connectors, then went back to anodizing and re-anodized panel, then have made silk screen and re-applied the print.
Cost me a lot just to do one job.
Hoping to have another project in the future to do the same.:)
 
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