Modified one-of-a-kind Klipschorn?

[3-way]

I'm wondering if these are one-of-a-kind K-Horns or is this a tried-and-true modification

I picked up a pair of very well cared for 1974 Klipschorn's from a kid in his 20's who said they were his Grandfathers who had recently passed away. On the outside of the access door there are fused banana plug connections, MAIN IN & OUTPUT to the AK-2 crossover. On the inside of the door is a pair of LARGE capacitors wired between the fuse & the K-33. The K-33 has been shimmed about 1.5" from its original mount by stacking 2 pcs of 3/4" thick plywood. I did not remove the K-33 so I assume are both pcs are about 15"x15" w/ a slot cut out of the center. The sound produced is a warmer, smoother midrange than standard K-horn w/ AA crossover.

 

[macyjrm]

Pics would sure be useful.

 

[Coytee]

I wonder if the plywood is the removable motorboard that I understand some of them had. (though I thought it would have been an earlier model)

Pictures would help....as you're looking at it.... try to ascertain if the driver would unscrew from where it's attached OR, if you could (if you so chose) remove the board it's attached to and swap it out with another.

 

[3-way]

I'll post some detailed pics in a day or 2.

 

[3-way]

 

[Coytee]

I've never seen them in person but my guess is that's the removable motorboard. Loosen the wing nuts, slide it out....mount new driver to board....slide back in.

That's the story I'm sticking with!

 

[3-way]

I wonder if the plywood is the removable motorboard that I understand some of them had. (though I thought it would have been an earlier model)

Pictures would help....as you're looking at it.... try to ascertain if the driver would unscrew from where it's attached OR, if you could (if you so chose) remove the board it's attached to and swap it out with another.

It could be removed either way but I can see every hole in the driver has a screw while all my other K-33's require just 4. In any event it is basically for ease of changing out the driver. It isn't really that difficult to do if you lay it face down.

Any idea about the capacitors on the inside of the access panel?
I have heard there is a magnetic fluid that can be applied the voice coils of K-77's to smooth them out if they sound "scratchy".

 

[Coytee]

It could be removed either way but I can see every hole in the driver has a screw while all my other K-33's require just 4.

I'd suspect that someone has replaced the driver. I've only got four screws on my K33's and (except for brand new ones which I have no clue) have never seen more than 4 screws. It always kind of bugged me as it looked like a job half way done. But it seemed to work so I never worried about it.

If I ever swapped out my driver, I'd consider putting screws in all locations..... just because I'm a bit OCD....

 

[moray james]

if your tweeter diaphragm is off centre then just centre it. no amount of any lubricant will fix a driver if the voice coil is miss aligned. It might make it sound to be less of a problem and it might stretch out the time it will take for the VC to wear and short but that's it. Why not contact bob Crites and get a new set of CT125 for your speakers they are a much better tweeter with wider and smoother response and they will drop in.

 

[3-way]

I have a pair of JBL K-140's and several EV SRO 15's [white]......Any thoughts on how the K-Horns would sound or is the 33 going to be the best candidate?

 

[twiiii]

We had a REP who owned Khorns, that he used with JBL mid driver and tweeters. He tried different woofers in the early 80's and said the best sound was from the Eminence woofer Klipsch used. That was almost 40 years ago, I know Altec woofers don't work. Plus you have to trim them down from 16 to 15 inches. The Altec woofers do work better in MWM-S and MWM-d Klipsch bass Horns. The Eminence wires between the speaker terminals and the voice coils were either to short or failed from fatigue. Thats when I started using 421 B's or 3156 ALTEC woofers in big Klipsch boxes. We rolled off the bass at 70 HZ with the La Scala and never had any issues with the La Scala woofers when bi amping using the MWM as subs. The design of the horn pretty much determines the parameters of performance, so changinging a woofer can be an iffy proposition. Call Bob Crites and see if he has an answer. I know changing woofers on ported systems can really help. But I'm very skeptical about folded horns.

 

[santa]

I recall that the horn's acoustical load adds impedance to the circuit meaning you will affect the crossover point by using another woofer
I think the k33 is 4 ohm dcr and horn loading brings it up to a nominal 8 ohms

 

[Coytee]

Over the years....I've read a fair number of threads where someone started out to "improve" upon the lowly K33 driver.....usually to only find out that it indeed, sounded better.

I DO however, think Claude (on the Klipsch forum) found a driver that might actually be a bit better (for his tastes anyway.... I think I already know what Klipsch engineers might think about that idea...)

 

[3-way]

Over the years....I've read a fair number of threads where someone started out to "improve" upon the lowly K33 driver.....usually to only find out that it indeed, sounded better.

I DO however, think Claude (on the Klipsch forum) found a driver that might actually be a bit better (for his tastes anyway.... I think I already know what Klipsch engineers might think about that idea...)

That's what I thought, I see the folded horn as mathematical...if you change the equation your bound to get the wrong answer.