Thanks for the advice! There is a number etched on the cartridge.I think this is one that could be put into service with just a touch of maintenance, knocking the age off some of the parts as explained above. I'm sure a discussion about what to do before sitting down for lots of licorice pizzas would bring out a nice list of things to address. Once you are spinning you could consider the upgrade as needed.
Is there a serial number etched into the Stanton cartridge? looks like a 680 version (681 if it has the etching) and that stylus might be the original in good shape, looking at how little wear the table is showing.
Well bought. Now to do the research to find out about the table and to get a list of maintenance to do before calling it ready for prime time. A rebuild can wait I'm sure. But marc would be able to make it a big leap better.
The etched number means a calibrated standard cart that came with a printout of that response for the original stylus on that cartridge. Did you find the brush that hangs on the front of the cartridge?
Unpacked it. I think perhaps the Goodwill people may have unpacked some of it, or perhaps someone while looking at it in the store. It is definitely very lightly used, if at all though. As WaynerN mentioned, the Mat was in crumbles and I think in the process may have discolored the platter a bit, seems like some simple polishing would bring it back to new though. Regardless, it seems to be in terrific shape. I'm not sure I want to even try to run it without taking the good suggestions to have @marcmorin work his magic on it for fear of inadvertently damaging it. It appears to have the original plastic head shell, but can not see any markings on the cartridge. The original warranty card is still affixed to the bottom...not sure where to send it Here's some photos.
Well I'll leave it to you as far as slapping a Stanton brush on the AR turntable headshell but I would like to find it as for general tt use it does a nice job on other tables of keeping the grooves clean. But we have come so far with record cleaning rituals it is much less necessary than back in the 70s when it was new. Compared to the stiff boar bristles on the generic brushes, capable of playing the record themselves, the Stanton brush is nice. But I understand the pros and cons of it. I might use it on my automatic table but not my manual tables.Boy i hope not. the front of the headshell needs cut away for it to attach, adds a bunch of weight forcing the C/W to be set way back from the pivots, on every one i've heard with the brush attached, i hear the brush in the music, and it really adds to the skating effects.
Thank you Marc, I appreciate the advice as you certainly are the acknowledged expert on these Models in any forum I’ve looked at! Really appreciate the advice. I can not locate a brush so no issue there. Will follow your advice but have one other question....should I attempt to very mildly oil the motor via the spindle post prior to running it for the first time, or just worry the bearing wells and see how it runs prior to oiling the motor? Seems like conflicting advice abounds on this point, with some claiming the oiling ruined their motors. Also, should the bottom cover be left off after the adjustments you suggest are made? Thanks for your help, and if you are interested in making modifications I would be honored! Everyone suggests your tone arm upgrade but I’m not clear on what that is. Davenew oil in the bearing wells will certainly be called for. For the arm bearing well, add enough to where the oil fills that little pocket at the top. First "upgrade" in sonics is to remove the bottom cover. Remove a few staples and it will slide out. find the ribbed side of the power cord, mark that side on the plug, and that side plugs into the neutral of the mains socket. Use a long level across the front and both sides when setting the table up. A bubble level placed on the subplatter between the spindle and arm post should read level. if not, the suspension needs adjusted. 3/8 socket fits the nuts. the outer platter should ride no higher than 1/4" above the base. Don't use a heavy platter mat. 180-200gr albums can overload that suspension. Nice find.
Thank you! I’ve read some conflicting advice on oiling the motor, so really appreciate you mentioning it, I was very gun shy on that point.Many XBs were shipped with a Shure M91ED. Mine didn't look all that different from the OPs (also had the suspension wing nut in place) and actually was a model AR-XB91. One additional maintenance item to the ones I listed above is to oil the motor with sewing machine oil (I use Bernina oil) and let it run for a few hours to work out any crude that may have accumulated over time.
Neither the printout nor the brush can be located.The etched number means a calibrated standard cart that came with a printout of that response for the original stylus on that cartridge. Did you find the brush that hangs on the front of the cartridge?
1st upgrade is to remove the bottom cover. follow the advice of a drop of oil at the motor shaft and run the motor. wipe off every hour or so and add another drop.Thank you Marc, I appreciate the advice as you certainly are the acknowledged expert on these Models in any forum I’ve looked at! Really appreciate the advice. I can not locate a brush so no issue there. Will follow your advice but have one other question....should I attempt to very mildly oil the motor via the spindle post prior to running it for the first time, or just worry the bearing wells and see how it runs prior to oiling the motor? Seems like conflicting advice abounds on this point, with some claiming the oiling ruined their motors. Also, should the bottom cover be left off after the adjustments you suggest are made? Thanks for your help, and if you are interested in making modifications I would be honored! Everyone suggests your tone arm upgrade but I’m not clear on what that is. Dave