BBO 455-Swapped '82 Caprice Wagon!
- Thread starter vinyldavid
- Start date
Shadowdog
Super Member
From everything I've read the slightly modded HEI is great for what you want so maybe the money saved can be put into an affordable aftermarket self tuning FI system like I mentioned. The base version doesn't come with ignition so you would have a very affordable system.
There is also an adjustable advance system , maybe from MSD or other company so you can get max MPG. There are also systems for sure with some of the aftermarket systems that copy the GM stock systems with knock sensors for the best MPG and power.
The best system to add for efficiency (MPG & HP) would be the one on the LS engines (coil on plug) as it's been added to non GM engines by hot rodders realizing how good it is.
There is also an adjustable advance system , maybe from MSD or other company so you can get max MPG. There are also systems for sure with some of the aftermarket systems that copy the GM stock systems with knock sensors for the best MPG and power.
The best system to add for efficiency (MPG & HP) would be the one on the LS engines (coil on plug) as it's been added to non GM engines by hot rodders realizing how good it is.
Digression here, you can actually use a HEI module on other triggers. Once upon a time I was really into old Studebakers and built a '55 coupe with a R1 (high compression 289, think '63 Avanti) and the stock distributor was a dual point Prestolite. Well you can take a normal Stude V-8 Presto and gut it and put in the trigger from a RB MoPar with the early electronic ignition, which also gets you bronze bushed advance weights which don't wear out like the steel on steel Stude weights. I used a MoPar orange box as that's what it was intended for, but found out later that it's pretty easy to make a HEI module work and that that would have been probably a better performing, more reliable solution.
Shadowdog
Super Member
The HEI module is way more reliable and gives a better spark than many out there back in the day. I have used it to fire Ford distributors and even a Triumph TR7 distributor (using it with a Mopar V8 magnetic pickup as it all fit) with a machined adapter to fit the reluctor) Later put in Accel Ign. and it didn't work any better.
It only works with magnetic triggers (not Hall Effect) & there are only 4 connections on it of which 2 on one end go to the pickup coil and the other 2 go to the coil and ignition switch wiring so supper easy to wire and foolproof. Get's rid of a ballast resistor if needed also with the only requirement being critical to it's life being a mounted to a big enough heatsink (3/16" aluminum plate of 4 x 6 in ) with the proper heat sink paste between it
Lowest cost to buy also!
It only works with magnetic triggers (not Hall Effect) & there are only 4 connections on it of which 2 on one end go to the pickup coil and the other 2 go to the coil and ignition switch wiring so supper easy to wire and foolproof. Get's rid of a ballast resistor if needed also with the only requirement being critical to it's life being a mounted to a big enough heatsink (3/16" aluminum plate of 4 x 6 in ) with the proper heat sink paste between it
Lowest cost to buy also!
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We bought one of these MSD Distributors:
https://www.msdperformance.com/products/distributors/oldsmobile/parts/8529
We also got the MSD 6AL box, and a Blaster 2 coil. We're letting the shop buy the plug wires and plugs.
An EFI system was discussed, but both my father and I agree that it would cost an excessive amount of money to do properly, and spoil some of the shock value when the hood is popped and a stock-looking Caprice Wagon with Diesel badges has an Olds 455 Rocket with a big honkin carburetor sitting on top.
The rotating assembly was previously balanced, and the new pistons are just slightly heavier than the old ones (and they match up very well to each other, as did the old ones). So, in the opinion of the builder, the assembly is just fine.
Here are the pictures I took yesterday:
Piston:
Crank, cleaned up and polished.
Block, bored to 0.40 over and ready for assembly with new freeze plugs:
Pistons on rods, with ARP fasteners holding the endcaps on, indications of previous balance visible:
https://www.msdperformance.com/products/distributors/oldsmobile/parts/8529
We also got the MSD 6AL box, and a Blaster 2 coil. We're letting the shop buy the plug wires and plugs.
An EFI system was discussed, but both my father and I agree that it would cost an excessive amount of money to do properly, and spoil some of the shock value when the hood is popped and a stock-looking Caprice Wagon with Diesel badges has an Olds 455 Rocket with a big honkin carburetor sitting on top.
The rotating assembly was previously balanced, and the new pistons are just slightly heavier than the old ones (and they match up very well to each other, as did the old ones). So, in the opinion of the builder, the assembly is just fine.
Here are the pictures I took yesterday:
Piston:
Crank, cleaned up and polished.
Block, bored to 0.40 over and ready for assembly with new freeze plugs:
Pistons on rods, with ARP fasteners holding the endcaps on, indications of previous balance visible:
whoaru99
Epic Member
The intended use comes across to me as 90% grocery getter (no dis intended) and 10% race car, so est. 450hp/540tq at moderate RPM ain't too shabby.
The way this engine is sizing up, if lopped off 6 cylinders it would be roughly equivalent displacement, hp and tq as the engine in my Vulcan 2000 (2050cc/125 cu in) motorcycle which has 5250 redline and similar pk hp and tq rpm points.
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New Quadrajet is $325 from Summit. JET Performance up to $410. Not sure what tweaks the shop will perform, though.
The recipe was set up by Joe Mondello, long before he passed.
While the Mondello outfit in California has nothing to do with the Mondello family anymore (they're in Tennessee, I think, now), the parts we purchased have remained the same for years.
The Holley EFI is an interesting idea, but I would have to have a new high pressure in-tank fuel pump and plumb all new fuel lines (their kit is $750ish).
So that's about $2k with labor, as opposed to bolting on a carburetor and going with the recommendations of the people we're paying to make the car run and drive.
No dis taken, that's about right, usage-wise. Depending on fuel consumption, road trip vehicle as well. If it gets over 15mpg, it will be a roadtrip vehicle in non-winter weather (it gets stored inside for the winter with no exceptions).
Shadowdog
Super Member
You don't have to use an in tank fuel pump as you can use an external one (Ford used them on vans) and they can be down to even $800 for a self learning bolt on one I mentioned earlier. They want $245 or $395 for the external fuel pump kits depending on what you want. That could be done with the Holley also.
http://www.fitechefi.com/30003.html
Summit sells it also:
://www.summitracing.com/int/search/brand/fitech-fuel-injection/part-type/fuel-injection-systems
You don't need that external MSD box as your not drag racing or using high rpms so that can save extra $ Actually if you put a new shaft with wt's (if worn out) in your old HEI and new factory module you will have a new distributor. Coils usually last forever, but stock is more than really good for your use. So you could easily save $400 there. OEM HEI distributor should be less than $200 if you want to go that way also.
http://www.fitechefi.com/30003.html
Summit sells it also:
://www.summitracing.com/int/search/brand/fitech-fuel-injection/part-type/fuel-injection-systems
You don't need that external MSD box as your not drag racing or using high rpms so that can save extra $ Actually if you put a new shaft with wt's (if worn out) in your old HEI and new factory module you will have a new distributor. Coils usually last forever, but stock is more than really good for your use. So you could easily save $400 there. OEM HEI distributor should be less than $200 if you want to go that way also.
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Here's the first picture dump so far:
Some more:
These are the old heads.
These are the old heads.
Update: it's on the engine stand, we're going to paint it as close to body color blue as they can get (but not painting the heads).
Going to call Mondello today and see what stall speed they recommend for the torque converter.
Will hopefully have more pics soon. I also want to be there when it starts up for the first time, and record it with my decent recording rig.
Going to call Mondello today and see what stall speed they recommend for the torque converter.
Will hopefully have more pics soon. I also want to be there when it starts up for the first time, and record it with my decent recording rig.
