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Thanks, everyone!

I could try the relay as a "Hail Mary", if you think it might help. Any chance you have a part number I can order from Mouser?

Nope, I never got it working right. It will stay stable for a while, but fooling with the volume knob will reproduce the symptoms. In my case, the volume/balance pot appears to be the issue, and they are impossible to find.

I was up in the Seattle area last week for work, and on an off day hit a local gun show. I've been looking for a decent wall hanger for my reloading room and came across this Eclipse for a reasonable price, so I took it home. After a bit of Googling around, I learned pretty much all there was...

Similar to the one I did a few years ago. It looked like it came from the wreck of the Titanic. Cleaned up pretty well, though:

Picked up a 1958 3 screw ruger single six for short money at a gun show 2 weeks ago. A ton of fun to shoot, and I love the click click click click of the single action. It just feels good in the hand.

I'll get out my handy-dandy Micronta transistor checker and match up a couple of pairs. I appreciate the help, thanks!

1815's, you say? I have a ton of those....C1815YTA to be exact. Will those work? Look to be ECB, same as the 1222's. I can always order a bunch of 1845's when I screw with whatever amp crosses my path next.. :D

Gotcha. Looks like the KSC1845 is the replacement, and I only have three of those on-hand. :( any chance you know of another suitable sub that I might use? I

Ahh...... the 1222's, I see them. I was wondering about those, but wasn't sure they were problem children. I'll change them out, thanks for the tip!

.... and yes, the unit is now re-capped with the following exceptions: 1) One bi-polar cap on the power supply... did not have a replacement 2) Main PS caps.... didn't have those on-hand, either. 3) The tuning section. I let that be.

Is the pre-amp board the F-2436 driver circuit board? If so - no, I did not change any of the transistors on that board. I replaced the three transistors on the tone control, but those are the only transistors that are new. Which ones are the "bad actors"?

It's been a while, but I wanted to circle back to this a bit. The unit was working fine, so I re-capped it, rebuilt the power supply, and did the adjustments. All good...... except the damn volume knob is acting up again. The right side goes weak and gives some static, and twiddling the pot...

Got it figured out...... the measurement calls for measuring across a fuse holder for each channel. I had to remove the fuse to shunt the current through the meter - D'oh. :( All good now, meter shows what it is supposed to, and bias has been set.

Forgive the possibly stupid question, but here goes..... Getting ready to button up an 881 that I fixed, and am doing the final adjustments according to the SM. DC offset went well, but the bias current adjustment isn't working out right. I am on the correct fuse holders as specified, and have...

Yeah. When I lived in CA, I had a carry permit, but was limited to "on-roster" guns with low capacity magazines. So, I opted for a revolver. 1st up was a S&W Model 60, but despite being a fantastic revolver it was too small in my hands and was a J frame so only 5 rounds. The Model 12 is a 6...

Not sure about other parts of the country, but I've seen even a beater Model 10 for $350. :) Don't worry - I plan to shoot the hell out of this snubby! I won't use it for EDC as I have a Model 12 and a S&W Shield for that, but it'll get taken out for a spin all right. BTW - Love your...

And while I'm at it...... Several years ago I bought a ratty little 1892 carbine in 25-20. It was pretty beat to hell, but I fell in love with the idea of the '92 carbine. I traded that ratty little carbine off, and started looking for another. To make a long story short, over the years I ended...

I had nothing better to do, so I grabbed my neighbor and we went down to the local gun show to see what was left on Sunday. Breezed on in, no masks required, and commenced to peruse the vendor tables. We saw lots of interesting things, bought some knick-knacks here and there - some bullets, some...

So...... examining the back of the driver board with a magnification hood, I found a cold solder joint on the left side. Re-flowed that, and now I have both channels strong and clear. Crackle is gone on the right side, and pressing on the relay gives no further issues. Strange. Wiggling the...

OK, so I pulled the driver board to get a small probe clip on the resistor (R03) that is connected with the right channel capacitor C02. When I turned the unit on, I got some completely different, strange goings on. I got very faint sound from the left, and nothing from the right. The probe was...

OK - sorry for the delay. work and whatnot. :) Hard to get to those caps with a probe, so I just changed them all, with no resolution. I hung the scope probe on the left/right of both tape 1 and tape 2 outputs, and played music through Aux 1 and Aux 2. There is definitely analog signal on both...

Thanks for the synopsis. The main volume pot and the balance are one unit on this receiver, and they have been hosed thoroughly with DeOxit as have all the switches, to include the speaker selector switch, mode (mono/stereo) switches, and even the mic output level pot. I have a very, very weak...

OK - I'll start poking around the selector switch. Looks like there are two contact pads - one in the front right behind the face-plate, and one in the rear at the end of a long connecting shaft. FWIW, I hosed those two down several times with DeOxit. I've tried putting an input on Aux-1 and...

Not to sound too stupid but... "selector switch"..... Input selector? I do have an oscilloscope, but not signal generator... :( Yeah - poking around the tone control board now. I see three SC1222's no Zener's, and a handful of caps. I can shotgun the caps and the transistors. After I solve...