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It takes some amount of resistance from the cue arm mechanism pushing against the cue lever cam to keep it stuck in place. I’ve found if the arm cue height adjustment is set too low there can be too little pressure against the cam and the spring will overcome it, flicking the cue lever back.

I've been investigating possible ways to create my s-shaped tonearm. I've come to the conclusion that the most practical solution will be to use a tubing bender and adjust my arm design to match whatever bending radius the tool comes with. The above tonearm design has two different bending...

That does seem to be a hair lower than an m91 should sit in my experience, though perhaps not dangerously so. How old/what make is the stylus? I have found the suspension on the various swiss aftermarket styli to be inconsistent.

I am not 100% certain the 1019 works exactly the same, but the 12xx series tables will suffer from this behavior if the distance between the end of the Main Lever (1019 part #191) and the steuerpimpel (or for a 1019, the "Guide Pin", part #208) is too close. I do know the 1019 guide pin is...

IIRC those should just slide out. Perhaps somebody used some glue at some point? I replaced a set for the same reason you're looking to replace yours. I think I still have the old ones laying around which are free to you if you'd like them. I'm not sure how much Technics dust covers varied...

Over the years tinkering on Duals I have accumulated several chassis carcasses and quite a few spare parts. I decided several months ago to go through things, organize them, and see how many complete tables I could make. Turns out I had almost everything for two 1219's and also everything...

I would agree with many of the reasons @likebike23 suggests. While I haven't run across a 1209 specifically, I've rebuilt several of the middle of the line Duals and have found them all to be good tables. Ultimately they're all built very similarly. I just finished a rebuild on a 1215s and...

Yes! I’ve got a really nice copy of Four & More, recorded the same night, but am still on the lookout for this one. This pair is high up my favorites of live Miles.

Rearranged the front room to have a secondary system. These are some beater AR-2ax’s with “original” AR warranty woofers I did an electrical restore on. Got a Signet TK7Ea on the LT-5v. The JB’s are sounding great!

I haven't found that eBay prices correlate that much with "real world" prices, at least in my part of the country. 50-70% seems like it might not be a bad rule of thumb to follow, though. Thanks!

The speakers have the original boxes, new pots & caps, new grill cloth, rebuilt original tweeters, all 4 badges on the grilles (square AR badge & cursive lowercase "a"), and 8/10 refinished cabinets.

2019 Reissue. Duophonic really did an excellent job with all the Stereolab 2019 reissues.

Can you be a little more clear about this line It sounds like you were already have to start the table manually. What exactly changed after you replaced the steuerpimpel? If one of the auto functions operates, but not the other, it could be an issue with the "cam follower lever"...

It has been my experience that grounding issues on Dual's are solved with a ground loop (as pictured in post #5), a nice new set of cables (and replacement sockets or hardwired as yours is), and proper tonearm grounding. I've also found a ground wire to amp unnecessary in the above...

The tapered set screw (39) should find it's way to the center of the bearings on its own. I would presume the best way to get the pressure correct would be similar to setting bearings on a bicycle wheel, over-tighten ever so slightly, then back off until there's no resistance yet also no play...

Fig. 21 looks correct to my understanding. The way I set the orientation is to loosen the screw slightly, manually position the leaf so the square washer is pushed into the (by your first picture orientation) upper left corner, then tighten the screw. There shouldn't be any play in the...

The pin on the underside of the tonearm "segment" (part 237) should not be sliding over the top of the copper pawl, but rather hitting the edge of the open slot on the pawl and, when the tonearm is moved toward play position, exiting through the slot in the end. I wouldn't recommend getting...

The tk-12 sled is more expensive, but the Best tk-14 and 24 are listed right now for under $30 shipped ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. ------ What I'd love is someone to come up with a drop-in rebuild kit for the tk-14/24. New wires with integral new pins/springs, that's all that really needs replaced. I...

Quick fix? Painters tape and some black spray paint. Best fix? Full new veneer job.

Fun! Give it a once through and determine if you need any parts. I have some miscellaneous 1228 stuff laying around. Almost certain I've got a cue lever if you need one. I'll check when I get home.

Confirming good contact at the sled <-> tonearm head and a decent pair of rca cables is critical. The tonearm tube itself should be grounded. On the 1226 it is (I think) tied into one of the channel grounds. Literally a small wire soldered to the end of the tube and combined with one of the...

Sounds like it's time for a motor servicing. It's manageable and there are multiple instructions around for how to do it. Here's a link to one. While you're at it also take some fine steel wool to the inside of the platter rim where the idler makes contact (and clean well with a little vodka...

I'm going to be making a couple custom 1219 plinths here pretty soon so I went to vinylengine to grab the mounting template. Looks like the only version available for the 1219 and 1229 is a not-to-scale picture. I wanted something a little more accurate and printable so I created this pdf...