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Yes, those Rubycons were great sounding for audio despite their 'general purpose' rating. The FC are a little bright and detailed, "HiFi" sounding I would say. I don't recall why I disliked the FG, but remember not liking them and removing them. Lean, edgy, or etched maybe? It sounds like you...

Some of the better-engineered Class H amps have a dynamic, muscular sound with some of the best headroom you'll find. I use a heavily upgraded Proton D1200 power amp in my main setup. Its 'sonic character' is among the best or most pleasing to the ear I've heard among dozens of others...

Cables, power cords (if not captive) even silver / single-crystal fuses make a difference if the system is revealing enough.

I went with an EAR834P clone. It was the 'Douk' variant with a single, toroidal transformer and the black/ gold pcb. Pleased as punch with it and the way it turned out. After tube rolling and swapping in higher quality materials along with some Teflon caps, it's the best phono stage I've heard...

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Sadly, I parted out my NEC CD-810 along with a Nakamichi OMS-7 and a CJ SD22 Sonographe when I couldn’t get any of them to work and was tired of futzing with them.

Here was mine after a recap:

Still lamenting the fact I was never able to get an NEC CD-810 cdp up and running. It was absolutely gorgeous. NEC knows what’s up.

Grit, grain, metallization, Onkyo, some Yamaha, sibilance, distortion, but most of all single layer ceramic disc capacitors anywhere near a signal path. I replace them with film or other superior sounding materials which don’t exhibit these characteristics for this very reason when I encounter...

Does anyone have any familiarity or information on these power amps? How’s the quality, are they any good, have you used them -what were your thoughts? I see they were made in Boulder and Bob Weir may have used one of their preamps (according to internet lore) but that’s about all the info I...

This was a while back, but when I recapped mine, the grills came off easily and were only attached with velcro.. I wonder if someone nailed yours in or something?

Yes, the opamp is hot-swappable and is socketed onto the board. I did a case mod to mine and plugged in a discrete, Burson V6 Classic opamp. As mentioned, the P50 linear power supply might help but is also a bit of a gamble. However, maybe you can just return it if it doesn't solve the problem?

I had an original Pontus II and would highly recommend it. It was the most "analog sounding" digital I've ever heard (if that makes sense) and I mean that as a compliment. Lots of oomph at the lower registers and very fleshed out and robust sounding (ballsy) with no digititis or glare to speak...

You're looking to upgrade PIO with PP? I've never seen those Oils before, but if they're hermetically sealed they should last and probably sound quite good and something I'd likely pay money for (if NOS). I'd replace them last (if at all) and focus on replacing all electrolytics first by a wide...

33pF is an extremely small capacitance to measure accurately and reliably. It's probably within the margin of error of most measuring equipment that make sloppy approximations at this minute level of capacitance. Sure, precision equipment is out there, but may be harder to find or is more...

subtle-changes-–-do-we-hear-them-or-is-it-placebo-effect-expectation-bias? It's both. Sometimes there's a real change in sound, sometimes people just want there to be a difference so much that they hear it to justify their purchase or expense. What it isn't though, is one or the other...

Any of the speaker wire with the clear insulation/ jacket or home improvement store cable is likely going to use PVC as the insulator. Look for OFC+ conductors (or better) with ptfe, polypropylene, air or cotton insulators for less interaction with the conductors/ signal smear. I wish I would've...

I upgraded my Minimus 7 crossovers awhile back using some CBB polypropylene capacitors. I forget the values, but it was kept constant to the originals -just upgraded to better sounding material.

Replace all cans with film types. At a minimum, I would recommend the Audyn Q4 from PE as my "go-to" for cheap. https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-components/crossover-components/crossover-capacitors/metalized-polypropylene-crossover-capacitors/brand/Audyn

It should not be that hot. Warm, but not uncomfortably hot on your hand. Check those service adjustments, it sounds like it needs it. Good luck.

While often times necessary to rejunvenate older equipment, some of these products ruin the nice, slow resistance feel of certain types of pots (mostly electrical contact cleaner, not so much DeOxit, but the best "cleaning" usually starts with electrical contact cleaner as a flush, followed by...

I agree with the article and what was said except that "all" caps should be replaced as a blanket statement. That is bad advice since some caps do not age (or drift) and a system may be tuned according to these original values. So replacing them willy nilly with "audio-grade" types or "non...

Just swap cables in and out and stick with what sounds best to you. That's where the rubber (and all other contributing factors effecting sound that haven't been taken into consideration) meets the road. All else is theoretical/ hype. Yes, you may -and should- be able to prove some of these...

I think he said he used polyester as replacements, not pp, and there probably were no pios installed in the Sansui 4000 originally.

The Suzuki caps in the photo provided have metal casing with the grey sleeve and are electrolytic, not polypropylene. These very small value caps have a tendency to dry out and drift over time. It sounds like it's already sounding much better after the partial recap. Less "wooly" as you've...