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Consider hifido. They always have pre owned Accuphase gear for sale. There shipping is expensive, but they pack to ensure that it gets to the buyer safely. Note that Accuphase in US will not service the products not meant for the US market.

Older / pre year 2000 Accuphase models could be easily converted by adjusting the jumpers. But I believe it is no longer true for the newer models. I use my pieces which were meant only for the Japan market with a step down transformer.

Yes, I picked it up. Apart from that missing button cover, it seemed in good cosmetic shape. Haven’t had a chance to look at it again or try it yet. Thanks,

3D Printing crossed my mind also; but I could use suggestions on how It go about it. I am planning to go and check out the deck - leaning towards picking it up. Thanks,

I almost always buy units for my personal use; so, looks are important. I will wait to see if I can find the missing part. Thanks,

Just noticed - on the auction site prices for this deck is over the top. A for parts only unit is listed for 850. I believe CR-5A has the same front panel, so could be a source as well. Not sure, if there are other Nak models which had similar buttons and are easier to find.

I have a chance to buy a Nak CR-7A deck, but it’s missing a button cap / cover (one of the fader buttons) and will require servicing. I have never owned a Nak before, but I know there are techs who can service it but am not sure about the replacement button cap. Are parts / buttons etc for this...

Thanks Balifly. But I figured out the problem. The little sub weight, which screws at the end of the tonearm was in. It is only visible when main counter weight is removed. Removing the sub weight fixed the issue.

Hi, I have been using the table for some time with the S-shaped pipe + JP-503 head shell + DL-160 cart. Today I decided to try the straight pipe which has a built in head shell, but I can't balance it. Its just too light. I only use the main tonearm weight (no additional weights) and its moved...

I noticed that their Class A amps have MOSFET outputs and non-Class A have bipolar outputs (I believe even the current generation). I have also read that their Class A amps sound very smooth and silky; not to undermine their non-class A amps. My P-500 is very smooth. If you are planning to buy...

Accuphase units from 80's are generally considered better than 70's so I would prefer comparatively newer units. P-266 is the most recent out of three, also has pure class A output. P-300 series is legendary, so it may be easier to find service information and techs to work on P-300x. I am sure...

I am in Cupertino as well.

Thanks frahengeo. Yes, the letters and numbers are engraved. The wooden side panels balance the brushed champagne front and add lots of richness / depth to the look. Also, the inside of C-260 is amazing design and build quality. It’s a dual mono design with all the amp boards plug and play. One...

Sure. Here is the set. I don't stack them for use; stacked them just for the picture.

I use a C-260 + P-500. Love the laid back, smooth and detailed sound.

Reviving the old thread for my Pioneer CTF-1000. It was working fine. Didn't use it for a year / may be more. Tried to use it it a few days ago and it didn't play. The take up reel moved, then slowed and stopped. Looked like as if Idler Assay 1 wasn't connecting properly. So, I opened the...

Hi Rich, I think you refereed to these / this type. David / dwojo had also mentioned that he carries LED lamps. http://www.parts-express.com/led-fuse-lamp-for-marantz-sansui-kenwood-yamaha-sony-warm-white-8volt-5pk--070-121 These seem direct replacement. I will check them out Thanks,

Hi Rich, Are those a simple replacement like lamps or would require some manipulation? Thanks,

Hi, After changing the lamps, the color of the light looked different (pale yellow) because of the clear lamps vs the old lamps which had some sort of blue filter on them. I prefer the way it was earlier so wrapped the new lamps with Lee Gel filter #117 and it came out close to how it looked...

Hi ymarko, you are the man. I looked at the service manual for disassembly instructions and it showed the lamps on top of the meters behind the face plate, so I assumed.... should have used some imagination. After your pointer, I removed the top plate... 2 more screws later lamps were...

It is Bondhus brand which I read is a good brand. It also fits the other 3 hex screws perfectly.

Hi Glen / EchoWars, what kind of machine shop is that? I assume they can handle it delicately / not ruin the face plate and the knob? I will look one up locally and check with them. I have a 1.6 mm key and will try what Mark suggested. Appreciate all the suggestions. Thanks,

Hi, My Spec-4 lost two meter lamps a few weeks ago, so, since yesterday I am trying to remove the face plate in order to change the lamps. When I started all the 4 hex screws were struck. After reading another thread (link below), I used a little bit of PB Blaster and after a couple of hours...

I use DSS-9 with Spec 1/ Spec 4 combination. They have much better/easier mid and high than HPM100s; but are hard to find.

Picked these plastic feet yesterday from Ace hardware just to test them along with some 4x10 (CT-F1000) and 3x10 (Ct-F950) Pan head tapping screws. Strangely, the 4x10 screws tuned out to be too thin for Ct-F1000 but fit well on CT-F950. The feet though a bit narrow fit well on CT-F950. Now...