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Nope. I sold mine shortly after as I'd built my large Unity based mains and didn't need them. Didn't last an hour on epay and the guy insisted on driving down from Newcastle (about 2hr e/w) to pick them up immediately.

I'd like to see very few old models return; most are not all that great except through the rose coloured glasses of nostalgia. My Linn DMS I fondly remember and would like to hear another set, and a reissue of the NS1000 would be nice (if affordable), and perhaps a modern implementation of the...

As he already has 2x400W/4R adding another 100W here would make 0.9dB difference, barely detectable.

Agreed. As you're in Texas, I'm hearing it now in a John Wayne* drawl. "'Scuse me Ma'am, let me take care of that WOFTAM for you" The internet has made messing with Yanks using Aussie slang less fun than it was a decade ago. Too easy to google it now. Right glad the rest of them fellas liked...

So is fan noise the overriding issue or are you really clipping it? If it's the former, swap out the fan for something quieter. PC case fan requirements have meant that there are now lots of choices in that regard that are much quieter and sometimes even flow a lot more air for little money...

I've had a couple of 160's and I doubt I would ever trade an SL1200 for one. However, I would like that SMEIII, mainly because I have a V15MxR that would work nicely in it.

I'm surprised that you need more power than the PC2602 can give (I also have one). I'm also of the view, based upon quite a bit of experimentation, that passive biamping is a WOFTAM and will likely not give any more clean level, as the same input signal is still going into both amps, and...

No. Still current on B&C site. http://www.bcspeakers.com/product.php?id=16 Europe is a big place with more than one supplier.

The line stage is just a 12AU7 cathode follower. It's not a great tube, and if you just want a buffer, the Pass B1 is a better bet.

The 7C is a hound. I've had a factory 7C as well as built clones which were POOGEd and they were still awful. Try a 12B4 common cathode, single stage. Lots of variations possible on this> choke loaded, CCS loaded (best), transformer output, PP, LED cathode bias etc. PSU can be anything to...

B&C DE160 on the 12x6 Ewave WG or the 6x6 depending on where you want to cross it to the mid. Gak. If you're gonna go OB, go OB. Halfarsed will just sound like that. I still don't like it or the increase in settling time it will bring. Great woof and compromised tuning.

I'm not sure I'd run the 10S to 3k; I feel my 10M are out of it by 1k7 or so which is as high as I'm willing to cross them even steep and active (LR48). The large foam surrounds of the higher excursion AE drivers add some FR anomolies in some of the measurements I've seen, in the 15"ers at about...

Here's a phrase that should always be attached to any link to subjective sighted cable discussion or revew: "expectation bias."

It's a bit thin for some applications but for modest power, reasonable impedances and length it will work fine and audibly indistinguishable from much more expensive stuff. Here is a far more sensible and realistic look at speaker cable sizing, but expect the flummery brigade to be along in a...

Some decent Digital Co-Axial cables. Ixos XHD608 75 Ohm Co-axial Digital cables, which I have previously used for AV equipment, but are now surplus to requirements. They will work fine as standard baseband analogue interconnects. No need to spend money on anything else.

^^^ 8 ball says "Very doubtful". If they're a sub driver the mass and inductance will likely rule them out from having an HF response that will go high enough to meet the waveguide.

I have 4 15X (sealed) for my mains and am using the 2225 (ported 6th order) for the surrounds. Whilst not a sub, the 2226 is excellent in ported enclosures tuned to 40Hz which for modern rock etc is about all you need. I suggested the JBL as it can be found used for about 1/2 the new price of...

I've had lots of Tannoys, and my suggestion would be to biamp and make a DMT215-II type system. Seal the Gold 15 in about 40L (OTTOMH value) and add a dedicated midbass from where they start to roll off in the sealed enclosure, somewhere around 150Hz or so. JBL 2225/6 or better still an AE...

Designed by committee.

That's EL34, not 84 and the 70W at 1% is wishful thinking from a pair of UL EL34. Loud enough? Depends and that's impossible to tell from a distance. If you have an amp of similar power driving them now, likely it will be enough.

I have a PC2002 and it's a terrific amp, so I'm not surprised you like yours. I've also got 6 other P or P-S series Yamaha amps. Mine will soon be powering the 15's in my mains.

I have a great fondness for Yamaha P series pro amps and own several of them. Generally they are excellent units. Replace the PS electros with new equivalents, same with any coupling caps that aren't plastic and maybe opamps with a more modern unit. Anything else sounds like it would be beyond...

Redesign so you don't have to use the awful AX7 and AU7 and just about anything else you can find will be an improvement. The AT7 is quite good in some applications.

Awesome, thanks. I'll try that in a couple of weeks when I do the 2123 and Ewave routs.

Here's one example that you can get in either 4 bit hex or Gray code output. http://www.ctscorp.com/components/datasheets/288.pdf Should be fairly self explanatory once you read it. Because they are a contact switch rather than optical they have a lesser rated life span, but I've not...