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Thanks for posting this! I've got a C-2a on the shelf with popping issues, which I've tried everything short of a full semi and resistor swap in the tone board. It has been sitting for years at this point. I happened into a C-2/M-2 set, and I'd really like to swap the C-2 for my old C-2a. This...

Thanks everyone! Not on the forums as much as I used to, but still enjoying the gear and tunes as much as ever!

Thanks for the replies, all! I don't plan to ditch the CDs. Part of me is sentimental about CDs, and another part of me is concerned about the death of physical media and potentially the concept of owning media altogether within my lifetime. With the evolution of streaming and listening habits...

Hello all. I haven't had a CD player in my system for years, relying on FLAC rips and streaming for digital playback. However, I was recently gifted a CD collection from a family member to add to my own. All these new found CDs have me feeling nostalgic to spin a disc once in a while...as I am...

We'll, I owe everyone an update I suppose! The turntable has been spinning sweet tunes for a couple of months now, and I've left you hanging. I decided to postpone some of my more lofty goals of refinishing the plinth and mirror polishing the platter, and settled on rebuilding the turntable...

You're right. The picture of the original counterweight on the previous page shows two o-ring grooves in the ID. I bet the original design used friction from the o-rings to hold the counterweight in place.

Something that just came to mind is a shaft collar with a setscrew. You might have problems finding one with low enough weight, but I'm sure you could make it work. This one is aluminum weighs in at around 60g if I did the quick math right. Some creative work with a drill could probably bring...

Looking at the manual on Vinyl Engine gives a little insight. https://www.vinylengine.com/library/adc/lmf-1.shtml The counterweight is only moved to rough in the neutral balance of the arm. Tracking force is set via the fine adjuster on the end of the tonearm stub. The manual doesn't mention...

I ran my 1590s with 100 WPC from an Adcom GFA-545 and 150 WPC from Luxman B-12 monoblocs. While bass was better with the Luxmans the Adcom didn't feel underpowered. I say try it both ways and let your ears decide. I don't think you'll under power them either way.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned Sonos. The old Sonos Connect or the new Port does exactly what you require with a smooth interface and good onboard DAC. It supports a ton of streaming services too. The old Connects can be had for $125-150 if you keep your eyes peeled on eBay. Some of the...

One thing the overhang distance will never tell you is alignment of the cantilever. The cantilever is often out of alignment with the body to some degree. By using a protractor and aligning the cantilever to the grid you can get a more precise alignment. I would get it close with the overhang...

Wow, hardwood cabs!? They look very well made. I bet they sound pretty nice.

I want to point out something about the topic of alignment that I didn't see addressed earlier in this thread. The Technics Baerwald arc protractor available from Vinyl Engine aligns the cartridge to a different geometry than the original overhang gauge. My understanding is that Technics used...

Did you remove the metal strap which holds the power button and detent assembly? I had to pull it off and basically disassemble the detent to push the power button through the square hole in the bezel. The bezel should just lift off after removing the power button and nuts from the black...

Thanks! I know I've learned a lot by reading similar threads. I hope my efforts inform and/or entertain others.

Quick update. I finished wet sanding and polishing the bezel. I started with 600 and progressed 800-1000-1500-2000 laid flat on a glass cutting board. Finally I polished it with PlastX and an auto body buffer. The buffing rounded the edges a bit, but it is not really noticable with the buttons...

There are a pair on OKC Craigslist for $175 in decent shape. I am not affiliated. https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/ele/d/edmond-norman-labs-model-8/7153138065.html Given that they are still sitting there I'd say they are priced too high especially with the rotten foams. I think $150 is...

Deoxit is the commonly recommend product for cleaning potentiometers. It should clean those speed pots up great. Either D5 or D100 would work.

I used 2-part 5 minute epoxy on an M97xe that had the same thing happen to it. It was pretty easy to reattach. If you use a protractor to align the cantilever it's not even critical to square everything up perfect. Just get it eyeball close, and the rest will sort itself out during alignment.

Finished tonearm! I gave the armboard some Howard's Feed n Wax to make the grain pop. Next up are cosmetic improvements to the turntable plinth and a recap of the electronics. I already started on reconditioning the acrylic name plate/button strip since the previous owner had scratched it up...

Between work and everything else going on it has been slow going, BUT I did manage to get the tonearm finished up. Since I wanted to change the orientation of the RCAs I decided to go ahead and rewire the base of the tonearm with the same stuff I used for the wand. First I hacked together some...

Thanks, everybody! I got a few tools, I grilled steaks, and my wife made key lime pie. Not a bad day.

I don't know if anyone has ever done the experiments to really be able to explain it with data. I've never seen it, at least. One thing for sure is that they look classy. I've heard explanations covering everything from resonance control to shielding. Who knows. One thing I highly doubt is that...

I have run across several with that issue. On a couple I didn't notice until my stylus skipped! Usually I can carefully drag my fingernail along the groove to pop the bit of paper out. Have you had any luck trying that? I imagine a soft tool, like a popsicle stick or guitar pick, would work in...

I would guess the perceived benefits were more likely due to adding effective mass to the system rather than the act of epoxying a plate to the existing body. Brass is fairly dense, so I would guess the mod added a few grams to the headshell, which the DL-103 is known to respond well to with...